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The Bonneville Shop
Registrace 11. 06. 2019
We provide the highest quality vintage British motorcycle parts in the industry. Keeping vintage British Motorcycles On The Road Since 2008.
Wheel Disassembly - Vintage Triumph Repair
Dave Porter is showing Ashley and Michaelah how to disassemble a wheel in order to get organized and rebuild it.
zhlédnutí: 813
Video
Stacy from The Bonneville Shop talks about Speedwell Mudguards
zhlédnutí 328Před rokem
We found some old footage in the archive of our brother (from other mother), Stacy, talking about our Speedwell Mudguards. Miss ya buddy. Check 'em out here: www.thebonnevilleshop.com/product-brands/speedwell-mudguards/
Dave's Favorite Bearing: The Main Bearing on the Drive Side on Vintage BSA and Triumph Twins
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CN, C2 and C3 bearings are all under the same part number (70-2879 for Triumph and 68-0625 for the BSA CN bearing). Dave talks us through the different bearings, their history and how to distinguish them. (With special appearances from our old friends Stacy and Jürgen!) Check it out for some vintage Brit bike info.
A Little Bit of Triumph History with Professor Dave
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350, 500, 650 of my! Would Edward Turner be rolling in his grave over the 750 Triumph?
1968 Triumph T120R Rebuild - Knocking the Old Bearings Out of the Frame.
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We're removing the ball bearings from the frame of our 1968 Triumph!
Tips for Polishing your Primary and Timing Cover
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Stacy shares a tip from an old friend to use Mother’s and aluminum foil to polish your bike!
Removing the Main Race Bearing - 1968 Triumph T120R Rebuild
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Our next step in our '68 Triumph T120R is to pull the rest of the drive side bearing out of the case. Stacy is giving Ashley a lesson in the process and she's going to take the case home, put it in the oven and use our specialty tool, 61-7017 Main Bearing Race Removal Tool Drift, to remove the bearing.
How to Measure the Clearance of your Connecting Rods Using Plastigauge
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When rebuilding your bottom end you want to ensure you have the right clearance on your bottom end bearings. Stacy goes over using Plastigauge get a proper measurement.
5 Tips for Using, Storing and Maintaining your Torque Wrench.
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5 Tips for Using, Storing and Maintaining your Torque Wrench.
Premium VS Economy Single Leading Shoe Brakes for Your Motorcycle
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Stacy compares two of our brake shoe products that we carry at the The Bonneville Shop for your Vintage British Motorcycle.
Fork Tools at The Bonneville Shop
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Stacy is going over some of the tools for your top end that we carry at The Bonneville Shop!
1968 Triumph T120R Rebuild - Cleaning the Crank and Connecting Rods
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Next in the series of rebuilding our 1968 Triumph T120R we're using our parts washer to clean the crank and connecting rods.
Removing the Sludge Cap from the Crank - 1968 Triumph T120R Rebuild
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Engine work! Stacy is working to remove the sludge trap plug on our crank so we can change out the sludge trap tube on our 1968 Triumph T120R. Spoiler: It doesn't come out easy! "It's possible to wash out the old one but they aren't expensive and it's worth getting a new one."
Stacy Slay at The Bonneville Shop
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Stacy grew up in junk yards and quickly learned the basic of fixing up cars. He's fixed up and rebuilt tons of motorcycles throughout the years and he confidently declares that the best motorcycle Triumph ever built was the 1973 T140V!
Purchasing Exhaust Pipes for your Vintage Brit Bike: Do You Need Spigots?
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Purchasing Exhaust Pipes for your Vintage Brit Bike: Do You Need Spigots?
We're rebuilding a '68 Triumph T120R, Subscribe to follow along!
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We're rebuilding a '68 Triumph T120R, Subscribe to follow along!
Solid State Regulators from The Bonneville Shop
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Solid State Regulators from The Bonneville Shop
Installing a Headlight to a Rim using Fixing Clips
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Installing a Headlight to a Rim using Fixing Clips
Installing a Mainstand - The Penny Trick
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Installing a Mainstand - The Penny Trick
How to Fit New Concentric Carbs with Old Cables (Triumph)
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How to Fit New Concentric Carbs with Old Cables (Triumph)
Thank you so very much it worked👍👍👍
Brilliant. Ta.
“He’s no longer with us” He moved to Hawaii 😂
Thank you for emphasizing that the ubiquitous click type wrench must be used from the handgrip in order to be accurate. Different designs where this isn't necessary are becoming more common nowadays, and that might be leading people to think that all torque wrenches can be used with a cheater bar or choked up on.
Got my 63 thru 70 shop manual from the bonneville shop today, kudos guys, very cool and informative,
Plz..are the spigots self taping or do i need to take off the head to my 71 t120 and have a shop thread the head ?...Thx...B.K.
I enjoyed the video. Find the music distracting. IMO.
Do you guys have any experience drilling out the little spiral nails that hold the patent plate in? I got a cover already sanded down and when I polished it I notice little starlike marks where the plate was..formed a triangle. I heard they were not easy to drill out. Any thoughts?
The hammer-drive rivets are almost impossible to drill out. I have drilled new holes next to the existing broken stubs, essentially moving the patent plate over towards the timing chest by 1/16". Best of luck.
guys, it's ok to use a cheater bar, the torque wrench with still be as accurate as holding the handle. where you are applying force only matters when you're calibrating it.
The common click type of torque wrench being shown is Length Dependent, and must have the force applied at the handgrip. You cannot use a cheater bar or choke up on the handle, or the torque delivered at the click point will be wrong. There are other non Length Dependent designs that are fine to use a cheater bar with, such as a cam-over slipping wrench.
what is the oil gap distance ? O,01? Is it?  
I have no idea what the fuck I was supposed to be seeing here. You obscured the orientation of the clip with your hands.
A lot of time and effort to remove the plug doing it that way. I suggest drilling and tapping the plug with a left hand thread, as large a diameter as possible, then inserting a bolt to remove.
Many years ago, when I was working for a Triumph dealership as a mechanic, we had a customer come in with a charging issue. My boss ask him where the Zener diode was? He said "the what?" My poss pointed to the location of the heat sync under the head light and said "the thing that goes there." "That" he said, "I fooled with it a while but I could never get it to honk so I threw it out."
O my god what a butcher i wont be taking any crank of mine to you lot, how about an impact wrench or rattle gun, or brill an hole dead center and use a large easy out tool not a dam chisel
Howd that motor run? Love the 500s I have two t100s and t100c. Fun to run.
Really good info! Any thoughts on bearings that work loose in the drive side crankcase? I heard the suggestion that too thick oil will work like a wedge, enlarging the bearing outer race, and thus the bore for the drive side bearing?
Great tutorial thank you
Just took the plug out of a '77 750. Tried impact screwdriver and didn't move. I read that the later ones have Loctite and need to be heated. It did have Loctite. I heated it then used an air impact and a drag link socket that was ground to fit the plug slot perfectly. The drag link socket is a 1/2" drive socket with a giant screwdriver blade. The end was ground curved to fit the slot. I held pressure on the impact and it still chewed up the plug. It did come out.
Good to see you continuing the Brit Bike hobby. Informative video, going neg ground for the gimcracks (60s Calif slang for bells and whistles) like LED and USB power for cam.
Very useful information ,thanks
What happened to measuring offset?
Hello; RHH; very good taste in Music. I have a question; I need to remove mine to send to chrome, but I have the dual discs kit and I do not know a good way to refit again with the right offset. I thought about putting a straight edge on the rim and somehow take measurements but is not so exactly... May be you have a better method? Thanks
Cool. I never knew. I have a few torque wrenches I never use. I never knew to store them loose all way to 0 while not in use. Great tips for tech tool tards like myself
My primary cover off my 68 BSA has scratches that steel wool won't remove. What grit is next step coarser than 0 steel wool?
Can't wait to try it on the shovel bsa &triumph
The word is Dismantle.
Thanks you guys, super important work you guys are doing to help us novices keep these machines on the road. So much of this knowledge isn’t around any more that we rely a lot on you.
Thank you both, you have no idea how helpful these videos are for beginners like me. This is going to help keep these bikes on the road where they belong.
Thanks for the video! When I install a new set of these do I need to lube them, and with what? Does it need dissembled to relube them periodically?
do you vapor blast your cases?
Friendly video. RIP Stacy... It's a pity that the two videos of dismantling and assembling the fork of a 1968 Triumph T120R are no longer available. They were very well made and I wanted to view them to help me in the restoration of my 1968 Triumph Bonneville T120R... Greetings from the south of France
I am in the same boat. Those videos were queued up for me to do this month... Any chance of them being made available?
@@stevedefeo Raber's had a decent disassembly video I found here: czcams.com/video/WITYLQtbPIE/video.html&ab_channel=Raber%27s
Todd, how about a video showing how to install a siamese exhaust pipe for a 1964 T100SC? :)
Avoid the music in the background, its annoying!
Have you never heard of an impact driver? Your one handed 1st attempt with a screwdriver & an adjustable wrench had zero chance of ever working! I’ve done 20+ of these & every time it simply unscrews with an impact driver, you are making a mountain out of a very simple job because you haven’t used the correct (cheap) tool!
This is excellent!! I have a '67 that is not even in the zygote stage yet - but I will come back and refer to this alter... Many thanks again :-)
Where would I find a tap set for the exhaust port for a 1961 T100?
Fark ive ordered a solid state reg and a single phase stator started thinking about the rotor being alternator be a bit like my old rd 350 it has windings and all that shit! It has a bridge rectifer and a zd im gunna change it to a solid state parts are comming im in australia any help how to test the rotor? While ive got it apart
I’m sure there is a scientific procedure to remotely measure the magnetism in a rotor, but it is not mentioned in the Lucas Service Manual or the BSA and Triumph Factory Workshop Manuals. In practice, if you can pick up the rotor by applying a long screwdriver to one of the magnets, and wave the screwdriver around, and the rotor sticks to the screwdriver, it has sufficient magnetism. If it falls off of the screwdriver with very little, or no movement, it is questionable and should be renewed. Another thing to inspect is the steel center insert. If you can place the rotor on the crankshaft, with the key fitted, you can check to see if the center boss is secure in the body of the rotor. If there is any looseness of the center boss, the rotor will require replacement. If you see stake marks around the center boss in the rotor body, somebody has already discovered looseness. Hope this helps.
When i got the rotor off it was moving on the steel insert no good wouldve affected ign timing and possibly spun so i pissed it off and fitted a new 1 i went with a wassell solid state rectifier and a 10 amp single phase stator .... now the rings are shot lol its all fun and games but hey we learn
Thanks! Gonna use your tips for my Harley Davison twin 88
Do it up!💪
So helpfull to know, may thanks.
If the wrench is rated 20 - 100 ft pound, lowering it to less than 20 for example 10 for storage can affect the calibration?
_Probably_ not, there would be just a slight tension still on the spring to hold it in position. If it is backed way off so the spring flops around, some types of measuring mechanism could slip out of the correct location, and the measurement would then become very inaccurate.
Thank you for posting this. It was very helpful.
This is a great video for me. I'm getting ready to do mine soon. Would it be a good idea to keep the races in the freezer over night?
Dave...of all the bikes you've fixed up and sold over the years, is there one you really regret selling and wish you still had?
What about the old trick of welding (inside the hole) a nut on top of the plug like they do to remove broken bolts?
Yes that would work
Will the Tympanium reg/rec work on a 6v bike? I'm asking because my 1964 TR6 appears to have an old tympanium reg/rec installed. The bike is 6v...it starts and runs great. The stock 3 wire stator was replaced at some point with a 2 wire stator.
Hey Dave, too bad you couldn’t stick around when this was live, it would have added a little more information to the video. The bosses were talking about livestreaming this topic again on a website where I can speak a little more freely, so let us know if you be interested in that. Since a rectifier is a traffic cop for the flow of electricity the Tympanium and most other 12V rectifiers will work in 6V or 12V alternator charging systems, but they will not work with a DC generator/dynamo 6V charging system. There is no real need to regulate a 6V charging system so the 99-9882 rectifier is much more cost effective option for a 6V system unless you are planning on buying a 12V stator. What is real interesting about your comment is your stator. The general color code for Lucas 6V stators is a green/white and green/black going from the stator to the rectifier AC connections, and a green/yellow going through the ignition and lighting switches and then returning to the rectifier in a green/black wire in a way that’s intended to give the lighting circuit a boost. They kept the same color codes for the early 12V dual rate charging systems, but they changed the green/white color code to white/green around 1966 for later models (I’m not a historian). So if your stator wires are white/green and green/yellow (or green/black) you have a 12V stator and you might have dead/weak magnet or two in your rotor.
@@thebonnevilleshop2314 Thanks for the info. The two wires coming from the stator are indeed white/green and green/yellow. I wonder why someone would put a 12v stator and a tympanium reg/reg on the bike and not just convert her to 12v? I don't fully understand the dead or weak magnets in the rotor ...is that because I have a 12v stator and it's not putting out 12 volts? (When I put a multimeter on the battery while the bike is running, it seems to be between 6.0 to 6.2ish depending on RPMS.) If I'm going to replace the rotor I might as well swap the whole thing over to 12v at that point, right? I'd just need a new battery and bulbs at that point, right? I'd keep my 6v coils and install an electronic ignition. (I have the Wassell Vape ignition that's supposed to work on 6 or 12v bikes, I haven't installed it yet.) I'd definitely be interested in any other live streams you guys do. Maybe you could do one on converting a bike from 6 to 12 volts. : )
Thanks for doing this live stream. Lots of good info. I had to skip out after the first few minutes but I came back to watch it.
What are the pros and cons of a positive ground system?
That is a very good question and I wish you were able to ask me that when this was live because it always makes for an interesting discussion! There are no significant pros or cons in 12V electrically (diode) rectified circuits since they use the negative AC wave to provide a more stable/constant output. Generators are another story. Positive ground (energized chassis) helps prevent voltage drops before the load in these systems because the commutator rectifies the current by cutting off the negative wave, this results in pulsing/uneven output. For a generator an energized chassis acts like a cushion for the pulsing, it acts like suspension on a bumpy road for the electricity coming from the generator.
Thank you on the quide :)
I like running a bead of weld around the old race. Once it cools they usually fall right out.
Hey guys where can I get that shirt with the triumph on the pocket? Kinda wish you had examples there.
Dave has actually had this one for 20+ years so we're not sure where you can find them anymore.