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For sure! If you need to thin it down at all, you can add water up to 1:1 without losing too much color intensity.

@@jacquardproducts Thx alot for the quick reply!

The stock solutions A & B have a long shelf life (months at room temperature), but once the two are combined, the mixed solution is only good for about 24 hours.

The paints are washable and dry cleanable after heat setting : )

Just scrunch it up and hold on tight when you dip it in! We have a bunch of pattern ideas posted on our website. You can check some of them out here: static1.squarespace.com/static/5ac4eb022971149bb6d709d3/t/5d79295d360f9557158e8662/1568221537414/IndigoKit_InstructionBooklet-09-19.pdf

Size large : )

Procion MX dyes work best on cotton fabrics. They do work on silks, but the colors will be slightly muted. Acid Dyes are generally the better option for silks.

It is a mixture of water and carrageenan: store.jacquardproducts.com/products/carrageenan

Our kit comes with a Sodium Hydrosulfite reducer

Yes, sure does!

Yes, should work well! Just remember, the longer you leave it on after it dries the darker the stain will become.

Whenever you are trying to "neutralize" and grey out a color, the best place to start is to dye it the color opposite on the color wheel. The opposite of apricot on the color wheel is probably a warm blue, so over-dyeing with the iDye Poly Blue or Lilac is probably your best bet.

@@jacquardproducts thank you! I am not sure why I even bought an apricot color blouse except maybe the sleeves!

The best light source we have ever tested is a 400W blacklight called the Eliminator EBK. It works great because it puts out a wide band of UV and gets hot. Heat during exposure (like simulated sunlight) can make a big difference, which is why UV LED lights aren't always the best option for SolarFast.

Thanks for reaching out! That sounds frustrating. If you would please email service@jacquardproducts.com we would be happy to assist!

A longer exposure will probably give you deeper color development. Just make sure you negative is nice a opaque so you get good contrast in the print.

The first wash should be in hot water with Synthrapol detergent if possible

@@jacquardproducts ok tell, that’s what I have for detergent, thank you that helps! I appreciate it! ✌️💜😊

Indoors away from sunlight should be fine

It works great on grey and colored fabrics. Just remember that the colors are semi-transparent, so printing red dye on a blue fabric would give you a purple and blue print, for example.

@@jacquardproducts thank you for the quick reply! I was wondering the green paint I have comes out orange is that how it’s supposed to be ? After sun exposure it becomes a shade of army green and yellow this is on a white shirt by the way I just wanted to make sure it is supposed to come out orange

@@supersaiyanyoshi1175 Yes, the green and yellow dyes come out of the bottle yellowish. After exposure, the yellow areas should wash out leaving a green and white print. That is why good washing technique is extra important wit those colors. They are a bit more challenging to use compared to the colors that come out of the bottle more or less colorless. Just use lots of hot water and soak the fabric, changing the water periodically, to remove the undeveloped yellow color.

@@supersaiyanyoshi1175 The green colors do come out of the bottle a yellow/orange color. After exposure, you should see a green and yellow image, and then the yellow areas should wash out to white. These colors require extra diligence when washing to remove all that undeveloped yellow dye. We recommend a long soak in hot soapy water, changing the water periodically until it runs clear.

@@jacquardproductshello I soaked it in hot water and it just leaked yellow all over my shirt

Most people use iDye Poly indoors on the stovetop, just be sure you have good ventilation : )

The name of the product is SolarFast

Just fill each bottle to the top! It is about 7.75 oz.

Water, pigment and gum arabic are all you need!

No, not usually necessary

You can mix it with the Permanent Waterbased Resist, the Clear Gutta Resist, or the Resistad, but the Removable Waterbased Resist is made to wash out once the color is set, so if you mixed pigment into it, it would just wash away in the final wash.

@@jacquardproducts what is the difference between permanent gold water based resist and the water based resist base, and how should they be used? Also, if the latter is supposed to be mixed with water and color, and leave a trace of color to make colored gutta can't the pearl ex work in the same way? The permanent resist are already coloured, so how can these be added to them?

@@lateraladvents the Permanent Waterbased Resist is essentially a specialized fabric paint, similar to our Lumiere and Neopaque paints. You are correct it is already colored. If you want to make your own colors using the Pearl Ex pigments, best to add them to the Neopaque Clear Extender. The Removable Waterbased Resist has no binders in it, so if you add pigment to it, the color will just wash off. The Resistad is a hybrid resist which can be colored with dye. Adding pigment to it may work if you heat set before washing, but this will require some testing. The Clear Gutta Resist is permanent upon drying. You should be able to mix any Pearl Ex pigment into it to create a colored resist.

@@jacquardproducts Thanks. 🤞To more testing

Yes, absolutely!

Yes! We offer six different neon / fluorescent Acid Dyes that are excellent on Nylon: store.jacquardproducts.com/products/acid-dye-set

Yes, we do! We offer six different neon / fluorescent colors in the Acid Dye line that are excellent for nylon. store.jacquardproducts.com/products/acid-dye-set

Sounds like you printed on the wrong side of the film. The film has a waterproof side and a ink-receptive print side. You need to print on the print side. If you pinch the film with moistened fingers, one side will feel sticky--that is the side to print the image on.

If you write to techsupport@jacquardproducts.com, we might be able to hook you up with someone : )

So sorry to hear this. Usually ironing with steam does the trick. What is the composition of the fabric you dyed?

Polyester. Intense steaming on the rayon setting only helped marginally. If I go any higher on the setting I risk melting the freaking shirt. This is a travel shirt and the high temperature of the dyeing seems to have destroyed the waterproofing the shirt came with. And now it looks like the steaming discolored it. This isn't worth the hassle. Next time I'll just buy another shirt.

So sorry to hear it! If you write to techsupport@jacquardproducts.com we'll be happy to help.

Yes, by "dark room" we just mean a room with little or no sunlight

Which kit are you using? Usually you can create the secondary colors by just overlapping the primary colors on the fabric. In other words, apply yellow on top of red and it will dye the fabric orange, etc. You can also just mix the liquid dyes together in a separate bottle if you want to work with premixed secondary colors.

@@jacquardproducts can i just mix the liguid together ?

@@Dimentio yes, for sure!

Yes, it would work, but we would probably recommend dyeing in a dye bath rather than covering the sweater in the DNF paint. For acrylic yarn you could use our Basic Dyes or the iDye Poly. This would color the whole thing without affecting the feel of the fabric whatsoever. www.jacquardproducts.com/dyes

@@jacquardproducts ahhh ok thank you - so i can’t use this paint in a dye bath?

@@haf3113 it isn't recommended because there are more appropriate products for dyeing a whole garment

@@jacquardproducts thank you !!

This is Gasen paper from Yasutomo

Both❤

For how many time the jagua powder still for use ?

Is it like the gel powder ,just for 3 month's or more??

Yes, absolutely--fabric that is 98% polyester will take the iDye Poly beautifully