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One needs to understand the basics of electricity, just cause that battery does not blow up, doesn't mean your theory is all valid. Increased voltage heats up the plates inside and reduces its life. I agree, fancy chargers does all this automatically for you and I so far did not have a single battery charger fail on me. 12v battery can take up to 14.4V, depends on number of cells in the battery and give it the max current. the battery will decide how much current it needs, based on the total plates resistance - A simple Ohms law. To re-vitalize the battery, set the voltage to 0 and current to max, then start increasing the voltage until you want the battery to see taking in certain amount of current. It all depends on the resistance at the terminals that the bench power supply is seeing - Cheers!.

is ther any way to get a copy ? I having many issues and it would help to have a copy in hand at the car.

15k jigsaw puzzle that, once done, is worth 50k. Congratulations to whomever buys her & good luck with the sale!

Go anywhere with that boat. Anywhere. Too bad I've aged out though.

THANK YOU! In looking into my IMRC code, I found those 2 wires coming out of what seems to be a rubberish type of tubing, and the wire insulation all the way up to the connector, fell off. Bare copper. Now I know what it is. Big help my man. Thx.

Totally agree, I've been using a lab power supply for charging and find it works much better than a smart charger, allows me full control and real time feedback on the state of battery.

My 2019 PCX ran out of gas a couple weeks ago, but after filling it up about half way now it won't start, not even acts like it wants to start, it just keeps turning over. Even though it only has 500 miles on it, I wonder if the fuel filter is the problem or if the fuel pump burned out? I can hear the pump when turning it on but don't know if it's actually pumping gas.

Why did you name this video "Temporary Fix"? ,was there another issue causing the runability issue?

No pawls?

I Saw a rotor for I believe was for our generator on ebay but I didn't check the numbers. Cost was a about $300 something

hello, i have the 60hz version of this generator and have been watching the videos, yes complicated and what is more complicated is the installation done on my sceptre 41 sail boat. i do not want to pull it for repair. my problem is that i have a dead ground on my batt charge winding. my thought is that i do not need the charge winding and my my question is.....can i operate this generator without the charge winding, i.e. cut the black wire from the 30A fuse and start the generator from my charged house batts wich are connected through an isolator switch. please help, i have already spent to much time and money on this gen set. thanks john ......ps very good videos!!

Great Video. I have a question that maybe you can answer. Do you have a picture or diagram of where the spring attaches inside the black Hatch Latch mechanism?

Very thorough. Thanks

Gute Erklärung, Danke!

Eine großartige Erklärung! Nüchtern, unaufgeregt, kompetent. Hat mir gut gefallen! Vielen Dank.

In Australia we have a product called Adbri Versaloc. It’s an interlocking block system that doesn’t require mortar after the first course. It’s so quick to install with a very clean finish. You only need to put rio bar at intervals, and core fill. It saves time and money.

May I ask where you found the powder-coated or anodized white aluminum?

This was very useful, even if the bit at the start about building his house was not exactly relevant ! I following this and got communication going via USB (boy is that driver hard to find!) but unfortunately I didn't find UltraScope for the Rigol DS1102Z_E (the DS 1000Z series I assume). I tried Ultra Sigma but that is not a graphical UI lookalike of the 'scope and was difficult to follow - it seems you can send commands and get responses. So thanks for posting it.

Working on a 390 im rebuilding that ive done everything to get it running right and it just will not. Im starting to think that dot to dot as i build all my mopars doesnt work on this. You.mentioned 8 degrees on this and i seriously think now that i have late timing events. Guess i gotta blow it apart and degree now.

18 V will destroy your battery

thanks

hey do you know if there is a relay for the side markers every time i put a fuse in it pops when we turn on the parking lights

This video was very helpful to me because I said to myself (before watching your video), there is no way to get that fuel pump out. I tried several times and the key for me was to remove the side plastic panels, or at least, push them well out of the way to allow the pump to rotate almost 180 degrees. Thanks!

Unfortunately, with the best of intentions, you’re giving people very bad (possibly dangerous) advice here.

Im having the same problem, revs great but wont idle.. pops and sputters,, im sure its carb related... my well nozzle looks cracked, ordered another one but will check the idle passages you mentioned, thanks !!!! im trying to figure out how the well nozzle works on these carbs, with the little rubber gasket in the bottom of the carb... I hope it gets my 1994 8hp going,, sure is an odd carburetor... also had to replaced all of the wires under the flywheel, as the insulation was coming off of the trigger and coil wires.. the spark plug boots were shot too, made some new ones,, hope all of the time and money im putting into this motor is worth it..

Excellent instruction to do both workarounds. But this weekend I found a new way to bypass the seat switch. I removed my seat cushion to put a seat cover on. To remove the seat bottom cushion, look underneath the seat cushion towards the front of the seat. There are two T25 torx screws. Remove them. The seat bottom cushion will slide forward and come off. Underneath the cushion there is a piece of tin with the seat switch contractor exposed. It is spring loaded so it pops up when you take your weight off of the seat. Conveniently, there are two holes that you can use zip ties to tie the spring loaded piece down to keep the contacts permanently closed. Takes five to ten minutes to do this. Take care, Mike

what are the risks and how do you know when to stop? Your video is very incomplete !!!

How are dynamic firewall rules made without scripts

Here is a working idea for extreme cold weather and vehicle batteries. The battery looses capacity when it is very cold. A neat trick my Dad showed me was to turn on the headlights for about 3-5 minutes, and then start the vehicle. This current draw will warm the battery enough to regain much of its cranking capacity, yet will not discharge the battery in any meaningful way. In a dual battery system (such as diesel pickup - double this time). You will be surprised how well it works.

Great video thanks for sharing now I have a cheap Amazon 12v 30 amp 360 watt power supply for my diesel heater working great but can I charge my truck battery with it in a pinch let's say on a supper cold morning when the engine cracks slowly and seems like it needs a helping hand to get going

Great video - I think I need one of the switches. I can't find one on eBay. Got a part number?

Aren't you concerned that you may end up cooking the battery? Since designated battery chargers tend to do an on / off trickle charge sequence in order for the battery to charge by not cooking it.

ive got one these digital power supplies there good

Do you recommend grouting the CMU cores before applying the SBC?

I love this method but dang, surface bonding cement has almost doubled in price since 2020

The battery is designed to be charged at around 14V by the alternator. So, you don't want to go too far above that. I don't think it is safe to charge it at 18V and 10 amp as you showed here 1:19

People need to be aware that there are aftermarket multi position "performance" timing sets for the big Ford on the market where their zero is in the 8 degree retard position. Also, the cam is "straight up" not when the dots are lined up but when the intake and exhaust centerlines are the same number of degrees. This conveniently is the same number as the lobe separation(measured in cam degrees) ground into your cam. Nice job on your video.

My newly rebuilt 400ci, bored to 461 ci, oil pressure was 90 psi at first like 5-10 running minutes will go down to 40-50 psi which have been told is normal for newly rebuilt stroker engines. I was in a pnic at first seeing the gauge.

I understand your explanation about the motor running wide open for 45 minutes causing the armature to overheat. What size wire is running from your trolling motor batteries to your trolling motor? You should be running 6 gauge wire from your batteries to your trolling motor. Tracker typically runs 8 gauge wires from the batteries to the trolling motor. Too small of a wire can cause the wiring, and the motor, to overheat without necessarily kicking out the circuit breaker. I had a similar instance with my boat when the outboard engine lost oil pressure. I had to go all the way back to the ramp on my trolling motor at full speed which took over 30 minutes, and I never had any issues with my trolling motor. I was running 6 gauge wire, Terrova 101 36V, and a 60 amp circuit breaker. Just something to think about that may have contributed to your issue.

I'd like to see a video of someone actually getting the bike and and out of that container. At around 70 pounds it can be difficult to pick up and maneuver.

Thank for the info.😎

Great video!

Thank you for the great video sir. My problem is problem happens when I get fuel and top it off.this problem happens

does it run ok on win 10 64 bit?

Just a quick note to anyone watching this with an older 2810. The seat switch doesn't need any resistor, just bridge the wires. As told to me by a respected kioti dealer and I've done it, and it's fine. The neutral switch on mine is just 2 wires coming out of the block nr the lever on the engine itself. I've bridged them and can now start it in gear, get off it in gear and most importantly use my tractor even though the lever has snapped 😊 thanks for the video buddy it showed me what I needed to know

Well the last rule drops LAN packets. LAN packets are not dropped in the drop all but LAN rule? Would be good to look at the log.

This device is a piece of crap. Constantly restarts and manual intervention required. Restarts more than twice a day if you are actively using it...

if a battery has 12 volts ang you want to charge it ,..You have to use a Higher voltage than 12 Volts ..when you raise the current on your Power supply it raises the Voltage automatically ..

The Mike Haduck Masonry channel, he shows how to do mortared walls.

I still don't get why mortar is required? Is that by code? I saw another video where they did a different "dry stack" method where they used no mortar at all and no surface bonding cement and filled every cell with concrete, but I think they live where codes don't exist, unrestricted land. So is the mortar required by code? You can easily just stack all heights of blocks without worrying about little height differences and then grind or add concrete or blocks to make it even on the last row or where you have windows or doors.