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That'd be an awesome bike to have!

Never have rode a Street Strider, but from the looks of it, this thing would be much more performance oriented than the Strider could ever hope to be. This was quick and agile.

Agree 100% That's literally how I got started with getting serious into bikes 20 or so years ago. Buy a reasonably priced bike, upgrade as possible/needed and go from there. Now I've done basically everything many times over and have learned a ton of useful techniques and haven't had to rely on the bike shop for hardly anything other than getting some parts here or there.

That's currently the plan! I've torn it down to the frame and only have the bottom bracket cups to still remove. After that, I'll be thoroughly cleaning and then clear coating!

Thanks for dropping by and watching!

Glad to see someone that's rode one of these! I'm loving the little thing, but just yesterday did a full tear-down to service everything, and start the process of rebuilding it from the frame up. Going to clear coat the original finish to preserve the bike, and starting to search on bottom bracket conversion to avoid the cotter pin cranks.

I still love this setup, and wish more would be made. I've still got the pedals and wheels from this video and even bought more when I found them, as I love the ease of service. Great for bad weather!

@@MongooseJake I swore by the Grease Guard set-up up until 2018 when I found out I was going to be replacing the bottom brackets, WTB Teflon Goose Grease as they called it had a NLGI rating of 1.5 which is a low consistency grease made to move easily through the bearings and out the bearing seals, I loved the smell of the stuff. The WTB/Chris King Grease Guard head set was the jewel of the group for sure.

@@malibustacy3606 The BB was the only part I've never had, love my hubs, pedals, and headset, they're moving to a new bike yet again soon.

68mm BB shell, and most bottom brackets you buy will work with either a 68 or 73, and include a spacer to toss on if your BB shell is the 68.

Rear coaster brake, built into the Sturmey Archer hub. Part of why I'm considering adding a Sturmey Archer drum brake for the front if I redo the front wheel.

Odd way to look at things... I enjoy bikes, and this is a neat little bike that's rare to find here in the US. Worthy of a quick video for sure. I'd think you might want to re-evaluate your own perspective there.

Was just looking at a 1969 Raleigh bike on Ebay, looked sharp but a bit pricey for just a zip around the neighborhood bike, for me at least.

I'm torn right now between a Sturmey Archer front drum brake, or a dynamo, either would be pretty cool and fit the design of this bike. I'll have to look into Eska and see if there's any I could locate.

I looked up the city a bit after buying this bike, looks quite nice. Whole area looks nice really.

@@MongooseJake In many aspects Yugoslavia was a nice country.

I think a proper clear coat is going to be the way to go, for exactly as you said, original but shiny and protected!

I think clear coating it is, it'll keep the original look intact and protected.

I think the cranks will have to be swapped for something else if I can't freshen up the chrome. Would still want the original look, but they're one of the current worst parts on the bike (cotter pins have a lot of slop in them, cranks impact the chainguard on drive side and nearly hit the frame on non-drive side). I'll have a deeper look now that I've sort of cataloged the original condition here in this video.

Yep, I looked into them and even tried contacting them for a source of genuine replacement decals if I were to strip the frame to freshly paint it. I kind of dig their current bikes as well! But, Yugoslavia is what doesn't exist anymore, at least not since 1992.

@@MongooseJake that's the sign of a good company! your country ceases to exist, but you still get replacement parts. (hopefully)

@@markifi nah,the company is long gone,it didn't survive going from semi soviet type to free economy it was shitty company really,the best in Yugoslavia but every good part was imported till they imported parts,asembled bikes and sold it with big fat margin it was fine but when borders opened it was the end some years ago somebody wanted to cash on nostalgia so they bought brand Rog and started to import same Pony by form but completely modern problem was that price was at least double what it should be so after customers with money to throw away bought it,there were no more customers and Rog died again

@@danieleverywhere132 Pricing might be a issue compared to some (I looked at their current bikes, around $650 US retail) but 90% of all companies are doing the exact same thing with almost all components. Bike companies build their frames, and then source parts to install. That's why most all parts are built to a few standards and that's it, so many bike companies can order and install them on their various bike models.

@@MongooseJake Problem is nowadays bike companies build nothing they just invest,that is story of new Rog,they started production just in futile hope of earning big bucks I checked Rog site and they advertize their product as having inox spokes....damn what and achievement,every bike over 200 $ has them,must be really so much better than others but hey,if people want to throw money for something let's....

Yeah, this old ROG is literally built like a tank, in the best ways possible. That's why I want to refurbish it in as an original way as possible.

I also need a seat post and they all seem to be wildly different sizes that are available.

You need to purchase a 27.2mm seatpost to fit the Hyper Explorer. I used this one: amzn.to/3yutf8j

This is one of the best parts about mountain bikes vs most other things like cars. Nearly everything is made to certain industry standard sizes. Any mountain bike pedals will fit it, all of those use a 9/16" thread size (BMX is 1/2"). Bottom brackets are mostly standard, and this one is a 68mm shell, I used the fairly cheap IXF cranks off of Amazon and it includes a fresh bottom bracket for about $50 total. Wheels are super easy, these are standard quick release 29" wheels with 135mm rear hub spacing and 100mm front, and you can find lots of options on Amazon, Ebay, and dedicated bike parts sites, as well as your local bike shop. Headset is the bearings up front that the fork mounts through, and that's a standard 1 1/8" by 34mm, and I used this one: amzn.to/3LMhI7l Hope all of that helps at least a bit! Hang around the channel and I'll try to pass along some basic wrenching advice as I can!

@@MongooseJake awesome thank you. Now I know where to start on making it rideable again. Haha.

It basically helps prevent a chain from dropping off the lowest (largest) cog into the spokes of the rear wheel. Only really needed if the derailleur isn't adjusted properly. I leave my bikes as stock as possible before doing my initial review video, so it stayed on until this. Once you've got your derailleur adjusted properly the disk isn't really needed. Especially once I upgrade the rear derailleur it'll be gone.

There are in-line brake levers you can add, and not too expensive either. Here's a pretty cheap option on Amazon for reference: amzn.to/3Y7Qsrv

For other in line brake options, just google "in line brake levers for drop bars" and you should see a number of choices. Tektro makes a good set for around $25 or so in addition to the off brand ones I linked in my other comment.

@@MongooseJake awesome good to know! Thank you for the link

First of all, thanks for hanging around! Makes me happy to see someone still around from all that time ago! As for my Mongoose bikes, I've got a number of them still. My Tyax is still around, rebuilding it, I've got 2 Canaan frames in different stages of builds, my Valiant is still my main bike for most of my trails, and I've got the SX6.7 I'm building, not to mention a XR200 and my very first Mongoose, a old DXR. So currently 7 bikes/builds in the 'Goose fleet (might need to do a current video on them). Regarding the fork, so far so good. It's not as supple over small chatter (like small rocks/roots) as a couple of my Marzocchi's but its nearly on par with a Rockshox Tora on my wife's bike. It also handles medium to bigger hits well, and doesn't have too much flex even with this one being standard quick release dropouts. We'll see about long term durability, but for the first 100+ miles (so over 160 km) it's been good.

Decals wouldn't be too hard to remove, as most are just stickers. I haven't weighed just the frame, nor my completed build, but the original bike is just under 37 lbs (36.7 according to Kev Central's scale). I'll weigh my build when I get a new scale.

@@MongooseJake thanks

There's a few things to check if that's the case. First: The stock front wheel has washers and then hooked tabs. Make sure those aren't getting caught in the fork's dropouts when you try to mount the wheel. The tabs will need to be on the outside of the fork's legs when the wheel is in place, and the hooks of the tabs sit into small holes on the fork dropouts. Also, check to make sure that neither the fork nor wheel is bent or damaged.

Thanks, I'll take the compliment (always boosts the ego just a bit), and I guess this is kind of my own way of doing that, here on CZcams. Might lead to something someday!

Square taper is perfectly fine for lots of riding situations in my opinion. Lighter riding types (cruising, gravel, road, etc) or just simply lighter riders can make good use of them. I'm going to put a square taper BB with some nice older Shimano XT cranks on a bike for my wife.

Life's thrown a lot of curveballs recently, but making the most of it and have gotten back to bikes and bike videos, with lots coming.

@@MongooseJake Same here ,I was homeless the other month that was a trip 🤠🙏

@@ianmangham4570 Hope all is well now for you, things happen.

Not a bad bike, only thing really holding it back is the steel rear end and no disk brake mount, which can be fixed with a adaptor. I'm still going to be moving forward with this build, but it's been delayed due to life and I snagged some of the parts intended for it to do another bike. Still, it'll get some video time later!

Within the last few days I put new tires, crank bearings, and for gits and shiggles a bike computer on mine. I just need a new back wheel. The one on it is wiggly.

@@ComputerGuy404 I'll have to go through literally everything on this one. It'd been left outside obviously for some time and nothing stock is worth saving much except for maybe the seatpost clamp and the rear derailleur (old Sram that just wouldn't die, lol).

Yeah, the price really was the only catch, I've still got these and they're solid as can be.

I'm actually considering buying an Ozark Trail to test out on this channel, considering I've heard nothing but amazing praise of it. I'm still building the Hyper for now, and I'd honestly replace the fork pretty quick as it's one of the worst parts of the bike. I've got a Bucklos one to test out if you're willing to wait around a bit and it might be a reasonable upgrade vs the terrible pogo stick the Hyper has stock.

@@MongooseJake I have an Ozark Trail Vibe and I love it! I understand the Ridge is even better.

@@DannyBurrisfitness Absolutely the Ridge is a good bike! I've only gotten a quick little spin on one and a nice and thorough inspection, but I'm pretty confident in saying it's likely the best base level mountain bike on the market currently. The Vibe is a solid bike for all around use, but the Ridge is basically what all bike brands had been selling for around $600-$750 just a couple of years ago, but it's only about $400. I'd love to build either a OT Ridge, or one of the new Schwinn Axums, and also the new Mongoose Switchbacks, but alas I'm just a average working guy with limited funds, lol. Only so many dollars to go around for bikes.

Awesome! Glad to have you dropping by!

lol, I talk in my own videos... Whodathunkit? No, I'm not going to fit well with those who want a fast catchy video and be done, I chat and talk as if we're hanging out together. It's fine if that's not for you, but it's who I am.

If the lever is leaking, you've got a bad seal. You can find rebuild kits for about $17 to $25 depending on seller for the Elixer 3. Here's one option: planetcyclery.com/avid-elixir-3-1-lever-internals-service-parts-kit?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwnv-vBhBdEiwABCYQAzZw2H1Ht9Psx7_22zMk5kg8-n0tqIepY-XrHtTnBzu4Hbin22BQaBoCg-sQAvD_BwE

Yeah, my Sony's autofocus had a mind of it's own for sure, lol. I've thankfully replaced it with a basic DSLR for some of my shooting now going forward.

Thanks for watching!

Yeah, looking back I really should've used a tripod far more often in my older videos. Free handing might be convenient but the shake is bad. Still use some of the WTB Grease Guard parts though, they're awesome!

I loved that Blackcomb, but had to sell it when money got tight at one point (I've had a lot happen in life since that build to say the least). Now I'll be wanting to build another once again!

If I remember right, 17.5” medium. My preferred size on a 29er.

I would highly recommend this or check out the Ozark Trail Ridge for not much more money. I've heard nothing but pure praise for the Ozark Trail as well, and this Hyper has served me very well and will get a few notable upgrades in time (already have the fork and pedals to do). Thanks for dropping by, hope to see you stick around for more!

Same here, just rode this bike a bit over a week ago, still tuned perfectly!

@@MongooseJake That's the beauty of SRAM XO derailleurs: they work very well and for a long time ! Gears engage with surgical precision, smoothly and, above all, it never goes out of gear ! A real pleasure !

Absolutely! It'll be a budget build, in keeping with the inexpensive nature of the bike, but solid. Already have a fork to go on, will make a video of it.

It's an electric blue, really stands out.

Well said, they're great for basic all around riding and I'd still recommend them for that.

Well said, they're great for basic all around riding and I'd still recommend them for that.