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Celsiuss Watt
Registrace 1. 11. 2020
Repairing Ninja Foodi DT 201 - Start Button not working : It is "disposable" product
The video explains how to get to control panel PCB to replace the failing switches. I created the video to illustrate time consuming process which requires unscrewing very many screws and complete disassembly of the oven, only to reach a simple failing component.
The start button is the most frequently used control, and the designers could do a better job of selecting reliable component and providing easy access for replacement.
I called this product "disposable" because it is really not designed for repairs. The replacement of a 5 cent switch takes 5 minutes once you spend an hour for disassembly and then an hour for assembly! There is no service manual available anywhere. This oven is stylish and great when works, but a nightmare when fails.
The start button is the most frequently used control, and the designers could do a better job of selecting reliable component and providing easy access for replacement.
I called this product "disposable" because it is really not designed for repairs. The replacement of a 5 cent switch takes 5 minutes once you spend an hour for disassembly and then an hour for assembly! There is no service manual available anywhere. This oven is stylish and great when works, but a nightmare when fails.
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Video
Balancing Harbor Freight Bench Grinder Wheels: An Electronics Engineer Way
zhlédnutí 4,1KPřed rokem
The video explains how to use MEMS accelerometer to quickly balance desktop grinding wheels (stones) in place, when the wheel is mounted on the grinder. The setup uses oscilloscope to find the angular position and amount of counterweight to compensate vibrations. Note that 𝑭=𝑹∗𝑴∗𝝎^𝟐 The phase of the signal (location of the top of waveform) relative to reference pulse period gives the angle wher...
I wasnt quite looking for this but know now it will happen. Too many none abled engineers that could never turn a screw driver more worried about how it looks than howit fuctions beyond a working time frame. Could of just had the outer cover just pop off or get this start making better products just like North America did for years. Cheap parts from a cheap ass country is the problem! Big NAME NINJA, HOW ABOUT BIG SHAME NINJA!! Seriously how hard is it to make a removable screen so the fan blades can be cleaned but now Im thinking class action law suit from multiple countries for using the cancer causing insulation, hey why dont you throw a box of Covid along with our lung cancer NINJA SHAME...............................................
This product is shit! The buttons on ours started going out within months.
The wheels should be better balanced from the factory.
Job well done.
Completely disagree….to get to the screws holding on the 4 screws to remove the control handle, all one needs to do is remove the 10 Phillips head screws, and 4 t10 security screws (ones with the hole in the center of the torx bit) from the bottom of the unit, with the door closed. Froze there the inner panel that surrounds the glass, can be lifted from the hinge area and the inner panel with the door open, can be pushed toward the inside of the oven, enough to clear the stainless tab that overhangs the panel, finagling it past with screw drivers leveraging it downward. Once it clears the tab, that inner panel will lift enough to get to the 4 screws holding the control door handle, and bobs your uncle! Now whether the 5 wire harness gives you enough room, to get it split apart, we’ll that’s another question. But there seems to be enough wire slack to have some room, so I believe it’s possible. Now you could also cut those wires and reattach, but you can get to those handle screws with just removing the inner panel as I explained. Now this doesn’t address my issue, and according to the web, a lot of other ninja foodi xl (dt200 and variants) where the units turns off, when the door is completely closed, which looks to me to be either a door switch issue (doubt, as I’m not sure there is a door switch, if someone knows different let me know), or the wires have a short, from a lifetime (in ninja foodi xl years) of opening and closing of the door, stressing the wires and disconnecting at the point when you close the door fully. So I must operate on this appliance further, and remove the stainless cover surrounding the oven…..I will get to the bottom of this issue, as this free xl model picked up off Craigslist, is going to cook some dinner once again, and maybe moonlight as a powder coating oven….so wish me luck….oh and those with those broken tactile switches, your welcome!
Forgot, 4 of the Phillips screws are under the left and right long rubber gaskets and the other 2 are under the “L” shaped rubber bumpers at the top corners. All of the rubbers are easy to remove, as they just fit into slots in the panel your removing.
If your ninja xl (dt200, and variants) shuts off when door is full closed, and has er-0 error code, it’s the wires near the hinges, that flex every time the door is open. The fix is to disassemble, and cut out the 2” of damaged wire, move a good section of wire into that position, and graph on the 2” of new wire to replace what you removed. I just did that, and oven now works. As I stated in my other post, you don’t need to disassemble the entire door, just the inner panel that surrounds the glass, and to get to the wire harness, the right side vertical piece with spring hinge covering the wire harness on that side. You do need to remove the stainless cover and hinges. Rest is pretty self explanatory
Furthermore, removing the stainless cover, from the oven to get to the inside is tricky….not taking out the screws, but getting the snap tabs to release around the door area. These tabs are metal and quite hard to get to release. This could lead to prying and bending the stainless cover, pretty easily, so care must be taken to avoid that. The 6 locking tabs 2 on top vertical section and 2 each on right and left horizontal sections. I would start with using a thin piece of metal to slide it and locate the tabs…before starting the releasing process. Do this by inserting the thin tool into gap starting on one side, and moving it up until you hit something solid and mark that location, do this for the 5 others. I did measure those on the top of the cover, and the tabs were 4 3/8” from the edge of the unit, the other measurements maybe similar. Once the tabs are located, youll need to pry at those points while pushing the cover rearward, and a note, it’s the oven itself that has the tabs on them, and it’s a v channel (on the cover I believe) that this rides in. Like I said, these tabs are sharp and like to dig into the metal so it takes force to overcome this along with something like a putty knife wedged in.….rubber mallet tapping, not a bad idea. Once you get the lower sides (bottom up) you’ll get the hang of what your up against, just be careful not to bend anything up. Good luck!
Interesting that I just watched another video on this unit that took 5.4 grams to balance. I dont have an oscilliscope but do have a lathe. I made a ring with 12 locations for a 1/4 screw. All roundness and wobble was addressed first. Then, added the balance ring. Using a brass screw - progressively moved the screw to locate max and min locations. Then proceeded to tune to minimal vibration with weight. It does run smooth now, all the imbalance was in the wheel. This is a good reference video for a low cost balance sensor. Bravo!!! Well done.
Mine's start button stopped working and I used this thing like 3 times. It stopped working just sitting inside my cabinet!!! What a waste of money.
Want to sell it?
@@smiller787 That's not a bad idea.
@@jyotikaurlife what’s your price and where are you located?
Well- could I just send You my grinder with the wheels I´d like to have on? Since my grinder is equally shitty but I am no engineer nor do I have access to a lathe (or know anyone that does) to make those weight thingys. But I shure would like my grinder to run nice, I know they can but I´m not gonna glue on weights to the wheels (as suggested by other videos) You could make a pretty business out of, I guess if it is quick and cheap to do.
The main purpose and advantage of the method is balancing in place together with the rotor, and I am more than happy with the result. One advice, though: gluing some weights to the side is a chance to be hurt as the glue is not reliable. So putting the weights in the way that they are held radially (as in my video) is a much safer option. However, someone mentioned that I should simply buy more reputable stones and grinders 🙂. So it could not be a business... I bought CBN (Cubic Boron Nitride) Grinding Wheels (they are well factory-balanced) for grinding carbide bits (Note: you cannot use diamond wheels for carbide)
What do you expect for a $30 oven… oh what’s that? I forgot a zero? $300? Wow that’s wild… what? $350? Oh that’s just awful
Thanks for your great video. Unfortunately, I do not have your level of expertise or experience with this kind of repair and we cannot find a repair person to fix it - so likely to landfill after 19 months. 😢
Hi, the skills are not that high, but I suggest that you call the support center and explain your problem. In the (unlikely) event they can help, they may be able to send you a replacement or upgrade. Be persistent... If not - you may still try to fix it (you do not loose anything, do you?). If you carefully disassemble the handle, you may find the button cup (~1/4" little metal circle) inside the handle somwhere. If you do, you may attempt repairing without button replacement. Place the cap on the place it was before (shiny side to the base of the button, yellow kapton side out). Use kapton or other good sticky tape to secure it (with sides of the tape glued to the board around the button). If your problem is only one failing button - it will let it survive another couple years (until the tape stays sticky). Good luck!
OMG! what a horrible design. By the way, thanks for the detailed video, helped a lot. I have exact same brand and model, and exact same button has failed. I am trying to replace it but I think I have already destroyed the copper lines. I will receive the new buttons tomorrow and will see. I hope 4 pins on the button are actually 2 parallel pins so that I can use the other 2 to solder.
It seems like you could maybe have removed the handle by bending a little bit of the metal in the door to access the screws. Those screws are hidden behind the rubber corners. How many screws held the handle to the door?
I think that there us no way to simplify the disassembly procedure (like bending something as you suggest) without spoiling the look of the repaired device... But as the owner, you are welcome to try...
Thanks for the peek inside. I find the cord a bit short. I thought about add/moving the electrical outlet but thought it would be easier just to buy a longer cord (with the same gauge wires). I just need an extra 6 inches or so.
As a fmr. EE turned software engineer; I appreciate this. Esp. the real oscilloscope. What's really needed here is a smart wheel with a WiFi connection and an 'app' for iOS/Android/Web with a cloud-based solution to rebalance the wheel internally via hydro dynamic changes in micro-cylinders. The system will also monitor the number and type of things you grind and order new parts as needed. Or one could purchase a better quality product? Nice touch with the wire cutters as pliers. :)
P.O.S lasted one year & buttons stopped working. Looks like a nightmare to fix. Thanks for the video.
Fantastic video. I know when mine dies I'll likely buy a different brand. I was only looking for a video like that as my sister in law has one where the fan is very noisy and I was going to fix it for her but seeing this I don't know if I wanna waste my time to try.
I recently bought it and send it back for defects got the next one with differenr defects now. I am not sure if these defects are just how unprecise they build these and not sure if I want to keep it. The problem is that I could not find any other oven with similar features (hot air ventilation, quartz heating, size). What other Brand product would you get?
To your fan problem: Both of mine came wirh off-centered fans brand-new. The 1. One was still silent and the 2. One is so offcenter it makes noise some of the time. I wonder if I can center it properly and have a halfway decent oven. I saw a bideo where someone had the fan acessibble, it is only one part that needs to be removed. How many screws it takes and how many parts need to be removed to get access to theese screws and how many screws to remove theese parts is what I now wonder about. Will do it tomorrow or propably not at all did you center the vent?
One more update: one has to unscrew 58 (fifty eight!) screws to get to the panel for button replacement! And then screw back these 58 screws! Bravo, Shark/Ninja!
An update after few weeks: The other buttons which were not replaced started to fail in the same way - the Kapton tape holding their flexible caps started to fall off (as on the first one which I replaced), and they fell down... I said in the video that they may fail. I could save time replacing all of them. Now I am about to open it again and replace them all. They are $1.20 for 100pcs.
I opened the button panel and saw the missing cap was like you said. I can't find the caps to replace them. I checked goldmines elec using the number you had on the bag (G13795) but they don't seem to have them. Any idea where I could get them?
Much more paitence than I, stupid design by stupid little ferry men and that is as nice as I get! I applaude your willingness to achieve on something some garbage they dared to Strike The NINJA NAME! AGAIN SHAME SHAME SHAME Maybe One Day Your People Will Once Again Find Their Honor Lost So LONG AGO!!
I just bought one of those and have the same issues ( I'm also an EE). I was thinking another way to do this would be to make a stroboscope and run it at a frequency slightly different from the rotational speed of the wheel. The space between the wheel and the rest should 'breathe'. Some simple markings on the side of the wheel ought to tell you where the heavy spot on the wheel is. Your way looks pretty complicated.
Thanks for watching! Please let me know if your experiment with a stroboscope was successful. I guess that if you want to track the (deflecting due to misbalance) center of rotation with stroboscope, it will be very difficult because the amplitude of displacement is very low, especially near perfect balance. Besides, you need to properly dress the wheel before balancing (but you need to do it anyway). One other alternative is to place the grinder on the scales and observe the AC component of the weight, which is nearly the same as I did but will be less sensitive and needs an amplifier for load cell signal. On the side note, someone suggested that the same method will be useful for balancing the ceiling fans. This case may also work with stroboscopic observation.
@@celsiusswatt6021 You got me thinking about this. I worked for a company that make ultrasound probes for surgery. We tested them looking through a microscope where the illumination was coming from an LED being pulsed close to the vibrating frequency. I looked like it was waving back and forth really slowly - very cool. I was going to write a program for one of the ARM cortex eval boards I have to pulse an LED using a timer. I was going to just put marks on the side of the wheel and watch the gap between the wheel and the tool rest to get an idea where the imbalance was happening. If I get around to this soon I'll post what I find. I was a bit surprised at how out of balance the grinder was.
@@ianboard544 Note also that the spacing between the stone and toolrest will not depend on imbalance, because they are fastened rigidly together, and they will vibrate together. The best you will see this way is the non-concentricity of the stone. You need a kind of marker on your steady table and let the grinder wiggle on its flexible rubber feet to see where the imbalance is. The Young's modulus of lateral movement is lower than that for vertical, but you may want to observe vertical vibrations if it is easier... You mentioned a keyword: a microscope. When rotating at normal speed and close to perfect balance, the displacements you need to detect will be <10mil. Let's compare complications when you are done 🙂
@@celsiusswatt6021 good points. The one ive got moves quite a bit. Im curious what Ill see. I have a project i can base the strobe on so it should be pretty simple.
Unfortunately, the links "below the video" are not clickable
The phase of sinewave on the screen relative to the reference pulse tells the angular position of the counter-weight. The period is 360 degrees, so if the top of the sinewave is at, say, 3/4 of space between pulses, the angle is 270 degrees from the place where the reflecting sticker is attached. If you can measure the delay with cursors, the angle in degrees is equal to the time (in microseconds) divided by 43 (for the 60Hz motor free running). In other situations, the angle (in degrees) is the time offset from the pulse (in microseconds) divided by distance between pulses (in microseconds) multiplied by 360. I.e., Angle=Toffset/Period*360. The weight may be also calculated from the effect of placing calibrated weight and measuring corresponding change of the amplitude. That allows to calculate weight and position and perform balancing in one step. In fact, similar technique is used in automatic wheel balancers in auto service.
Like this video! The only thing I didn't get: Did the circuit and oscope are helping somehow to find the angle position for the weight to put on? If not, it could be quite a challenge...
Yes it does, see below.
Time to try it on the larger grinder!