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@petersomthing9508 That's so nice to hear but to be honest I've had nothing go wrong or need attention for a considerable time. Cue a massive drama to occur tomorrow no doubt. I do have an annoying rattle at about 2750 rpm and some suspension bushes could probably do with replacing despite it flying through its MOT a month or so ago. I'm sure it won't be long before I'm getting greasy again, or it might wait until its dark at 4pm and freezing before something breaks knowing my luck.

@COLEukDOTcom Yeah I did. But for the amount of load variation I have in the car the air suspension just makes so much sense. It's so good being able to load the car to the max and not have the car feeling tail heavy.

@@davidmartin9879 You're very welcome. Thanks for taking the time to comment. It's nice to hear I've been of some help to someone.

@@RackAndOpinion_Official I don't mind admitting I hate the way cars are having more and more clips and less real fasteners. I know when a nut or bolt is tight. A little clip just doesn't feel secure and is a nightmare to find if you've never done it before

@@locoquepasa5736 Merci beaucoup mon ami.

@@locoquepasa5736 Replacement suspension air bags and compressor.

Is the filter still behind the engine on those? That's a good job that. 👍

@@channelone4655 yes just on top of the engine I was really worried to have to dismantle everything but this version was so easy , the filter is square shape. I think they probably heard complaints and made adjustments to the new design.

@Loftikaz Oh wow that's good to know. Thank you so much for getting back to me. 🤗

I've just superglued screws in the past and like you say. It's good enough until replacement time. But these seem able to be removed and professionally fixed. Bit like all these. They're not designed as a permanent fix.

Still going strong and had no issues. If it's just the bag that's the problem they really are a simple job to replace too. 👍

Whatever we can do to help each other out in these difficult times has to be worth while. Thanks for taking time to comment.

@channelone4655 yes, the neighbour is 74 years old and not well off, he really appreciates the help keeping his car on the road. The sort of person who would do you a favour if you needed it. Like people used to be.

I looked into myself before attacking the problem and I didn't see any examples of the welds spliting. It just seems the bean counters got involved at some point and decided a cheaper sealant would work. Which it clearly hasn't. There's no lay-bys in the sky which is why their quality control is higher (disregarding Boeing anyway). We've had managers from the automotive industry join where I work who all shared the car makers mantra of, get it out the door and fix problems under warranty. It seems car buyers are doing the development work for the manufacturers.

@@channelone4655 Here are two worth viewing on the tube: "How to fix Honda Fit/Jazz boot leak" by Gerry Boles 0:49 - 0:57 "Honda Fit leak: CRACKED! Roof Channel Seam Sealant Repair" by Combustion Therapy 0:54 & 1:30 through 1:41 This one shocked me. I liked your presentation.

@josephbingham1255 Since the video the car has been written off but thanks for the info. It's all quite interesting for such a major manufacturer to make such a blunder.

@@channelone4655 I bought my wife and I two new Honda Civic Si hatchbacks in 1992. Both upon revving gave a "bearing" sound. I took them back to the dealer in the first month. I talked with the dealer's mechanic that worked on them. Both had "very tight valves" which he adjusted. The engines came from the Canadian factory that way. Also a friend who was the senior technical writer for Honda Motorcycles USA ( a champion dirt track rider) and I discovered something odd about the timing. We removed a spark plug and inserted a long stiff narrow plastic rod to the top of the piston. By hand cranking the engine and watching the rod reach its lifted peak you could locate top dead center. The timing marks supposedly used for valve adjustments did not line up where the instruction book said top dead center was. The V-Tech motor was said to have timing that changed during high revs so maybe it was something to do with that. He wrote a letter to Honda Automobiles USA and they did not respond. One final thought. My experience was that Toyota executives were gentlemen interested in feedback to improve their product. And acted upon it. Hyundai executives,' We don't accept unsolicited comments." 😂

I'd expect if it was wiring the whole screen wouldn't clear. If so I'd check the fuse first, then the wiring attachment to the screen and I mean check it's getting voltage when the switch is on. If it has voltage then there's more than likely a break in the screen wire, if no voltage and the fuse is good then check voltage through the switch.

Took it to Murray Skoda. They said it’s wiring and wanted £672 to fix

Are you or do you know anyone competent with a voltmeter? Just saying wiring is a bit of a cop out as that can be anything from a loose connector to a short circuit in a part of the loom which needs major trim removal to reach. If you're struggling yourself, I'd try an independent motor mechanic who may have a more experienced eye.

@@RCFunclub Thank you. I’ve got a mobile machanic who specialises in electrics coming Thursday. I’m sure it’s just fuse. Taken fuse out but it’s one of those cube ones which is difficult to see if it’s blown

@@kimfowler5997 If it's the cube I'm thinking about that's probably a relay. Fuses normally are colour coded and have a number written on them. 5, 10, 20 etc. I'd expect a rear window to be 30 or 40 and you can swap them with working ones to check, but beware, cos you can blow that fuse and now have 2 things that won't work. Lol. Best of luck and hope the mobile mech is cheaper than £600!

The overall process will be the same, but some of the tool sizes I expect to be different. They were even different on a newer C4.

Oh I know those troubles so very well indeed. When a 2 minute job becomes a day long project. 😠

I don't want to make presumptions but mistakes are easy. Have you made sure it was the transmission oil and not the engine oil that you changed. If so then your issue may be more serious. 1 tube will always bring about an improvement so I wouldn't bother buying another to be honest if you still have the issue. One commenter did state similar but then found an issue with ignition coils so it may be worth looking deeper into the fault. I hope this helps.

You're very welcome and thanks for taking the time to comment. Anything we can do for each other in these difficult times is going to be worth doing. Take care.

@@gunner8521 That's why I do it. My theory is if we all post what we know we may help someone save a little money and in times like these that can only be a good thing. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

Easier if you're French. They get a bigger glove box too. Putting the steering wheel on the correct (right) side of the car does come with compromises.

I've got to say no. But I desperately want to know where I can find this squadfam9000 now.

@@channelone4655 Congrats u failed your guard training , please leave the server

@@guypasquay3080 😭😭😭😭😭 Can I start over. I'll do the best guarding of any guard that ever guarded.

@@channelone4655 You passed your guard training , Congr8ts

Thank you so much. Anything to help others save some money in these tough times. Thanks for taking time to comment.

On top of where you change the bulbs there's a white screw. That should be the adjuster. Depending on where you live the the headlight aim may be governed by legal requirements as raising it might help you, but could blind drivers coming towards you. UK cars will fail their MOT if the headlight is pointing too high.

I didn't. Just popped it straight in an was amazed before the end of my street.

Thank you so much. 👍

Yep sadly it's very common on these and not what you expect from Honda. The design is no different to most cars they just chose a poor sealant. The bean counters at work trying to save a few pennies no doubt.

The electric handbrake is a notorious problem on these. You can manually disengage it through a hole under the left front seat. There should even be a wire tool in the tool kit to do this. Obviously this will cause it's own problems if it's an automatic as you'll have no park brake but it could rule the problem out and I'm sure the same tool can reengage the brake.

It should still hold to be honest. But you may be able to put a bolt through the undertray into the car rather than coming from the car through the undertray.

Yes good idea. Ita peugoet partner van I'm fitting it too

I really can't remember off the top of my head. I do know that irrespective of what you do with the diagbox and as long as everything is working, the boot buttons will allow you to set the mid point and the car will auto level as normal. You can even drive data logging with the diagbox/laptop.

Thank you so much. I might over simplify some things but my aim is help those who may not be mechanically minded try to save a few pounds in these difficult times. Thanks for taking time to comment. 👍

Yeah I have a C4 with the kind of auto box. It's actually an electronically controlled manual box and clutch if you didn't know. I must say I prefer a CVT or better still a real auto, but the rest of the car is very well thought out as a practical family car. Better even than the spacetourer that replaced it. I've no idea what I'll do when my C4 dies.

Thank you so much. It means a lot just to hear I might be of some help to others. Since Microsoft stopped supporting Moviemaker I've not uploaded much. Time, as for everyone, is the greatest enemy. Do take care and thanks for taking the time to comment. 👍

I've had no trouble with them at all. After the first few days, then a 600+ mile holiday with a full car I stopped even thinking about them.

No. You should be able to just push it in and twist and it should come out.

I've tried that as well and it's seems really stiff

@@lukejenkins9888Ok. Just have a check to see if it has the wire retaining spring as per one of the other bulbs (main beam). It shouldn't have but it may have changed between years. If there's no spring retainer it really should twist out. Maybe twisting a little left and right before pushing in may help. You could also try the other side as if that does work then it's definitely the correct approach.

Ok thanks for your help I will try It in the morning as it's to dark now

Well I have a video where I take the whole door card off to repair a window switch when the switch just unclips from the outside 🤦

@@channelone4655 yeah.... I took a door card off a mazda 323f because the door wouldn'topen, only to realise there's a child safety switch on the door 🤦

@@MrErnogoldfinger Every day is a school day.

I've done a series of videos tracing and fixing the fault. Ultimately for me it was the compressor that failed. But, Check the compressor works manually with the boot switches, then check for displaced or damaged suspension air bags and pipes. Check the 2 sensors on the rear axle, 1 is by right wheel and the other is pretty central on the axle, if you get nowhere it may be worth plugging a diagnostic unit in, it helps massively but would most likely only confirm an expensive repair. I'd suspect the compressor which can be bought for £200ish new, but the suspension ECU is 4 times that and often causes people to convert to springs. Not trying to push my content but if you do watch my other videos I detail what and how to check everything. 👍

You're very welcome. Thanks for taking the time to comment. It means a lot. 👍

I did find it worked intermittently so a good few trays might at least get the window up. If you unplug the motor (so you don't send the voltage back) you should be able to put voltage directly to the affected window motor again to at least get it to go up. Best of luck.

Thank you for taking the time to comment. Anything we can do for each other to save a few £ is always worthwhile. 👍

If this isn't fitted it can be quite bad for the engine yes. This pipe goes from the air filter to the turbo so without it any dust or dirt in the air will get sucked into the engine which is really not good. So either put an air filter directly onto the turbo as some performance cars have or replace the pipe as soon as you can. Best of luck.

@@channelone4655 what about those noises in timing belt? czcams.com/video/LxxuKODZ8N8/video.htmlsi=djHxVJNNH2yQ0Pra

Honestly I'm not sure you can. From what I remember finding it's built into the lens cover. But challenge accepted, I'll take a look over the weekend and see what I can find. I'm really sorry but I can't do better than that.

Hello again. After doing some digging the only replacements for the tail light itself comes as whole light unit replacement. Very French I know but very similar to more modern cars with the fancy strip lights which on various forums has caused much anger. Sorry that I can't be more help. If you do find otherwise would you be good enough to let me know please. All the best.

I have actually seen that when I was looking for possible causes so you're absolutely right that the rear door/window sealing can cause this too. Thankfully I the months since sealing the roof we've had no problems.

You're more than welcome. This is exactly why I post these to help my fellow people save a few quid. Times are hard and we need to stick together. 👍

Well I've always been a little underwhelmed by the engine performance, and the 'auto' gearbox but I bought it for economy rather than speed so I knew what I was getting in to. I'd say from 2-3.5k revs you should notice it feeling a little more responsive to throttle than at lower revs. If it doesn't you may have turbo issues but with the 1.6 engine there's no real urgency anywhere in the rev range. Some oil at this seal is normal as it comes from the rocker cover as a blow by if there's too much oil. If you notice smoke from the exhaust and high oil consumption you may have an internal turbo leak. Some cars fill the intercooler with oil overtime which can affect performance, I've done a video on clearing this too. For some peace of mind if you take the plastic air tube into the turbo off you'll be able to see the compressor. If you give it a wiggle there should be minimal movement at best. If it rocks about the place or you see damage to the blades then the turbo would need rebuilding or replacing. I hope this helps a bit. 👍

Well all I can tell you is my findings. When I bought the car it had previously failed it's emissions checks which is how I found out about the additive bag. There were no fault codes showing. Having checked with the diagnostic software I saw the ECU thought the bag was empty. When I checked, in this video, I found the bag to be full. Again using the software I set the bag quantity to 100%. I forget the amount of miles but a later check showed the bag at 98% so I knew readings were being taken as the additive is injected. The car also didn't fail it's emissions checks the following 2 times it's been taken for them. I surmised even with a full bag, when the ECU thinks it's empty it doesn't try to inject any and that the previous owner had a new bag fitted to fix the emissions failure but the technician failed to correct the ECU so the car still failed. If you have a laptop the leads and software can be bought of eBay for around £50 and it has come in useful to me enough times for it to be a worthwhile investment. With accurate scales you could weigh a new bag, try your method and reweigh the bag to see if any was used. But that's about all I can suggest. I hope it helps.