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JDW
Japan
Registrace 5. 01. 2007
Welcome!
I make videos when I feel passionate about something and can't find any good video on the subject. I tend to focus on tech, especially Apple. I currently don't allow ads, but that results in CZcams not suggesting my videos like it does monetized ones. Although I personally dislike ads, I may need to enable them at some point simply to make my videos more discoverable. For now, you can enjoy my content Ad-free.
My sincere and humble thanks to all who kindly click Like, Subscribe and Comment. Such feedback helps guide my content creation. Please know that I try my best to read and reply to every comment, even in foreign languages.
đ° If a video of mine has helped you or you otherwise wish to support my future work, any gracious donations sent to my PayPal (US Dollar account) will support future content creation...
www.paypal.me/supportJDW
I am committed to releasing videos that inform and entertain.
Thank you for stopping by!
I make videos when I feel passionate about something and can't find any good video on the subject. I tend to focus on tech, especially Apple. I currently don't allow ads, but that results in CZcams not suggesting my videos like it does monetized ones. Although I personally dislike ads, I may need to enable them at some point simply to make my videos more discoverable. For now, you can enjoy my content Ad-free.
My sincere and humble thanks to all who kindly click Like, Subscribe and Comment. Such feedback helps guide my content creation. Please know that I try my best to read and reply to every comment, even in foreign languages.
đ° If a video of mine has helped you or you otherwise wish to support my future work, any gracious donations sent to my PayPal (US Dollar account) will support future content creation...
www.paypal.me/supportJDW
I am committed to releasing videos that inform and entertain.
Thank you for stopping by!
Making Long Boot Chimes for ROM-inator Resurrections
Comprehensive tutorial showing how to create and flash longer & louder sounds to ROM-inator Resurrections (for Mac 128K, 512K & Plus). Explore the joys of SoundMaster. Learn about 64K ROM gotchas. Don't miss the ending segment for my reveal of a fabulous NEW 2024 PSU for the Mac SE & SE/30, and much more!
đ INDEX
0:00 - Intro
1:11 - Sound File Format & Size
3:10 - Example: Full Quadra Boot Chime
4:12 - Using Audacity
15:04 - RAW file to FEMU's SD Card via Mini vMac
21:47 - Using the FloppyEMU
27:02 - Flashing with FlashTool
31:48 - System Beep Caveats
36:27 - All Sounds Compared
38:03 - ROM Code Files & Sound Duration
44:00 - System Sounds Sometimes Crackle
44:47 - SoundMaster: Make a Unique System Beep Sound
47:36 - Stock 64K ROM Caveats
50:01 - Closing Segment
đ STUFF TO BUY
⢠ROM-inator Resurrections: bit.ly/3qQAKCE
⢠FloppyEMU: www.bigmessowires.com/floppy-emu/
⢠T48 chip programmer: bit.ly/4cmF92V
⢠4.5V PRAM Battery for 128K, 512K & Plus (affiliate link): amzn.to/3EzEiv4
⢠My Picasso Mac T-shirt (Natural color, size L): www.8bittees.com/product/picasso-mac/
I mention the following 3 items at the end of my video:
⢠Power Supply for SE & SE/30 (New for 2024 by circuits_electric): www.ebay.com/itm/266898469654
⢠Mockingboard 4c (for Apple IIc): www.ebay.com/itm/284305317956
⢠Italian-made floppy drive GEARS (Updated May 2024 by fiori71): www.ebay.com/itm/333463751453
đž DOWNLOADS
⢠My ZIP Archive: tinyurl.com/24v36ex9
⢠Stuffit Deluxe 16.0.5: bit.ly/3Lwu1EW
⢠Audacity: bit.ly/3LydGzB
⢠SoundMaster v1.5: tinyurl.com/4wnaxf7r
(My ZIP Archive : Custom System Beeps : SoundMstr1.5-S4.1F5.3_mfs800K.dsk )
⢠Downtown Doug Brown's Q700 Chimes: bit.ly/3WeBrCO
⢠Mac & Apple II Boot Chimes: froods.ca/~dschaub/sound.html
⢠Star Trek The Logical Connection Vol.1: bit.ly/4cRC0Zc
⢠Star Trek Soundware Vol.2: bit.ly/3zQjfGN
(NOTE: I put both Star Trek collections in My Zip Archive : Sys7.5.5_JDW.dsk)
⢠HexFiend (for modern Macs): hexfiend.com
(Great for editing ROM Code files if you don't want to use FEdit on your vintage Mac.)
đĄTIP!
Getting a System Bomb when booting with 64K ROMs?
Reboot with OPT-CMD held down to Rebuild the Desktop file.
đŹ How to Build ROM-inator Resurrections: czcams.com/video/CVClCLgBm6k/video.html
đ RESOURCES
⢠NEVER flash the stock 64K ROM to a ROM-inator in a Mac Plus: bit.ly/4cytdeo
⢠BMOW ROM-inator page: tinyurl.com/3pf52hyx
⢠Mac Plus ROM disassembly by Steve Chamberlin: bit.ly/3YxOVeH
⢠Rob Braun created the original ROM-inator design in Oct. 2014. Forum discussion: tinyurl.com/muh9w7jn
Rob's ROM Adapter page: bit.ly/46mofiS
⢠Steve Chamberlin enhanced Rob's design in 2014: tinyurl.com/vfkshrsx
⢠BMOW endorsed Kay's ROM-inator Resurrections: tinyurl.com/mr267w6y
⢠EPROM Dump from HyperDrive 10MB HDD via T48: tinyurl.com/3vb39fjv
đľ Startup Chime MUSIC by David Mounder (Fabulous!)
David's CZcams Videos: www.youtube.com/@DavidMounder9598/videos
I obtained David's kind permission to use his Mac tracks as background music:
⢠Macintosh Quadra AV: czcams.com/video/HULTY4QDZ8U/video.html
⢠TAM: czcams.com/video/QBXdi6zVhbY/video.html
⢠Power Mac 6100: czcams.com/video/xzsUXe_h8cc/video.html
⢠Power Mac 5200/5300: czcams.com/video/LbFBqcUa7Bc/video.html
đ°SUPPORT THIS CHANNEL
www.paypal.me/supportJDW
đ SPECIAL THANKS to Steve Chamberlin (BMOW owner) & Rob Braun who made time to answer my questions during the making of this video. Thanks also to Michele Fiori đŽđš (fiori71 on EBAY) for sending me samples of his newly updated (5/2025) gears for Macintosh 800K & 1.44MB "auto inject" floppy drives.
đ TREMENDOUS THANKS to these generous Paypal contributors (Jan.~Jul. 2024):
⢠Brian Gorham đşđ¸ (đĽTOP repeat supporter)
⢠Frank Conforti đşđ¸ (Major repeat supporter)
⢠Philippe Astier đŤđˇ (Monthly supporter)
⢠Mauro Acciaccaferri đŽđš (Monthly supporter)
⢠Gavin Maxwell đŚđş (Monthly supporter)
⢠Amedeo Mantica đŽđš
⢠Edmund F. Piotrowski III đşđ¸
⢠Paul Bryers đşđ¸
⢠Graham Thompson đŹđ§
⢠Joshua Houghton đşđ¸
⢠Fernando Munoz đ¨đ´
⢠Jeffrey Ginsburg đşđ¸
⢠Mark B Newlon (Welcome to Markintosh) đşđ¸
⢠Christopher Gordon (SE & SE/30 PSU Creator) đşđ¸
⢠Daniel Williams đ¨đŚ
⢠Jason Meyer (aka JdM74) đşđ¸ (Jason also kindly gave me a recording of his IIfx boot chime.)
NOTE: Most of these amazing people contributed funds even during my multi-month down-time. I have no words to express how incredibly kind and giving these people are. Each and every one are dear to me!
đş SUBSCRIBE:
czcams.com/users/JDW11
#ROMinator #Audacity #SoundMaster #JDW
đ INDEX
0:00 - Intro
1:11 - Sound File Format & Size
3:10 - Example: Full Quadra Boot Chime
4:12 - Using Audacity
15:04 - RAW file to FEMU's SD Card via Mini vMac
21:47 - Using the FloppyEMU
27:02 - Flashing with FlashTool
31:48 - System Beep Caveats
36:27 - All Sounds Compared
38:03 - ROM Code Files & Sound Duration
44:00 - System Sounds Sometimes Crackle
44:47 - SoundMaster: Make a Unique System Beep Sound
47:36 - Stock 64K ROM Caveats
50:01 - Closing Segment
đ STUFF TO BUY
⢠ROM-inator Resurrections: bit.ly/3qQAKCE
⢠FloppyEMU: www.bigmessowires.com/floppy-emu/
⢠T48 chip programmer: bit.ly/4cmF92V
⢠4.5V PRAM Battery for 128K, 512K & Plus (affiliate link): amzn.to/3EzEiv4
⢠My Picasso Mac T-shirt (Natural color, size L): www.8bittees.com/product/picasso-mac/
I mention the following 3 items at the end of my video:
⢠Power Supply for SE & SE/30 (New for 2024 by circuits_electric): www.ebay.com/itm/266898469654
⢠Mockingboard 4c (for Apple IIc): www.ebay.com/itm/284305317956
⢠Italian-made floppy drive GEARS (Updated May 2024 by fiori71): www.ebay.com/itm/333463751453
đž DOWNLOADS
⢠My ZIP Archive: tinyurl.com/24v36ex9
⢠Stuffit Deluxe 16.0.5: bit.ly/3Lwu1EW
⢠Audacity: bit.ly/3LydGzB
⢠SoundMaster v1.5: tinyurl.com/4wnaxf7r
(My ZIP Archive : Custom System Beeps : SoundMstr1.5-S4.1F5.3_mfs800K.dsk )
⢠Downtown Doug Brown's Q700 Chimes: bit.ly/3WeBrCO
⢠Mac & Apple II Boot Chimes: froods.ca/~dschaub/sound.html
⢠Star Trek The Logical Connection Vol.1: bit.ly/4cRC0Zc
⢠Star Trek Soundware Vol.2: bit.ly/3zQjfGN
(NOTE: I put both Star Trek collections in My Zip Archive : Sys7.5.5_JDW.dsk)
⢠HexFiend (for modern Macs): hexfiend.com
(Great for editing ROM Code files if you don't want to use FEdit on your vintage Mac.)
đĄTIP!
Getting a System Bomb when booting with 64K ROMs?
Reboot with OPT-CMD held down to Rebuild the Desktop file.
đŹ How to Build ROM-inator Resurrections: czcams.com/video/CVClCLgBm6k/video.html
đ RESOURCES
⢠NEVER flash the stock 64K ROM to a ROM-inator in a Mac Plus: bit.ly/4cytdeo
⢠BMOW ROM-inator page: tinyurl.com/3pf52hyx
⢠Mac Plus ROM disassembly by Steve Chamberlin: bit.ly/3YxOVeH
⢠Rob Braun created the original ROM-inator design in Oct. 2014. Forum discussion: tinyurl.com/muh9w7jn
Rob's ROM Adapter page: bit.ly/46mofiS
⢠Steve Chamberlin enhanced Rob's design in 2014: tinyurl.com/vfkshrsx
⢠BMOW endorsed Kay's ROM-inator Resurrections: tinyurl.com/mr267w6y
⢠EPROM Dump from HyperDrive 10MB HDD via T48: tinyurl.com/3vb39fjv
đľ Startup Chime MUSIC by David Mounder (Fabulous!)
David's CZcams Videos: www.youtube.com/@DavidMounder9598/videos
I obtained David's kind permission to use his Mac tracks as background music:
⢠Macintosh Quadra AV: czcams.com/video/HULTY4QDZ8U/video.html
⢠TAM: czcams.com/video/QBXdi6zVhbY/video.html
⢠Power Mac 6100: czcams.com/video/xzsUXe_h8cc/video.html
⢠Power Mac 5200/5300: czcams.com/video/LbFBqcUa7Bc/video.html
đ°SUPPORT THIS CHANNEL
www.paypal.me/supportJDW
đ SPECIAL THANKS to Steve Chamberlin (BMOW owner) & Rob Braun who made time to answer my questions during the making of this video. Thanks also to Michele Fiori đŽđš (fiori71 on EBAY) for sending me samples of his newly updated (5/2025) gears for Macintosh 800K & 1.44MB "auto inject" floppy drives.
đ TREMENDOUS THANKS to these generous Paypal contributors (Jan.~Jul. 2024):
⢠Brian Gorham đşđ¸ (đĽTOP repeat supporter)
⢠Frank Conforti đşđ¸ (Major repeat supporter)
⢠Philippe Astier đŤđˇ (Monthly supporter)
⢠Mauro Acciaccaferri đŽđš (Monthly supporter)
⢠Gavin Maxwell đŚđş (Monthly supporter)
⢠Amedeo Mantica đŽđš
⢠Edmund F. Piotrowski III đşđ¸
⢠Paul Bryers đşđ¸
⢠Graham Thompson đŹđ§
⢠Joshua Houghton đşđ¸
⢠Fernando Munoz đ¨đ´
⢠Jeffrey Ginsburg đşđ¸
⢠Mark B Newlon (Welcome to Markintosh) đşđ¸
⢠Christopher Gordon (SE & SE/30 PSU Creator) đşđ¸
⢠Daniel Williams đ¨đŚ
⢠Jason Meyer (aka JdM74) đşđ¸ (Jason also kindly gave me a recording of his IIfx boot chime.)
NOTE: Most of these amazing people contributed funds even during my multi-month down-time. I have no words to express how incredibly kind and giving these people are. Each and every one are dear to me!
đş SUBSCRIBE:
czcams.com/users/JDW11
#ROMinator #Audacity #SoundMaster #JDW
zhlĂŠdnutĂ: 1 278
Video
Kay Koba's Flippy Floppy REVIEW
zhlĂŠdnutĂ 1,5KPĹed 6 mÄsĂci
At last! Connect a BMOW FloppyEMU to your Color Classic Mystic with Flippy Floppy by Keroâs Mac Mods, now with a card-compatible Back Panel by Frank Conforti. Want to make a Mystic? Here's how: czcams.com/video/LwH94XAFkU8/video.html â ď¸NOTE: FlippyFloppy is NOT COMPATBLE with a stock Color Classic. It is made for the CC MYSTIC which uses an LC575 motherboard. (Some other vintage Macs like the L...
Happy New Year 2024 & Japan Earthquake! č˝çťĺĺłśĺ°é
zhlĂŠdnutĂ 957PĹed 7 mÄsĂci
I didn't expect to have an earthquake hit in the middle of my video, but we had one here on Japan on January 1st. I talk a little about my channel content, popular videos of 2023, and what I'm thinking about in 2024. (Quake epicenter was the Noto Peninsula in Japan, 205 miles from my area. Our area in Aichi prefecture sustained no damage.) Check out the CZcams channel of Thomas Andrews @Amigaof...
A Very Special Apple IIc
zhlĂŠdnutĂ 2,8KPĹed 7 mÄsĂci
Featuring the 1st Color LCD prototype, a MacEffects backlit mechanical keyboard, and a hefty dose of Christmas cheer, this Apple IIc is both fun and unique! đ INDEX 0:00 - Intro 0:43 - MacEffects IIc Backlit Mechanical Keyboard 2:41 - Color LCD Prototype 4:46 - 40 vs. 80 column mode 8:51 - Games 17:26 - Bad News 17:56 - Whatâs Coming 18:26 - Apple II Forever SHIRT 20:20 - The New Apple II Userâ...
Tune-O-Gear Ejection FIX & LUBE for Apple 800K & 1.44MB floppy drives
zhlĂŠdnutĂ 802PĹed 8 mÄsĂci
Tune-O-Gear, by Kero's Mac Mods, let's you repair Apple/Sony floppy drives with OMRON motor that won't Eject. I show removal, drive teardown & lube. Have a SANWA motor drive? CayMac Vintage has you covered. I also show CayMac's Universal ROM SIMM and show you where you can find the famous Atkinson T-shirt. đ INDEX 0:00 - Intro 1:09 - Color Classic Disassembly 11:16 - Gearbox Repair 32:12 - Driv...
Apple HD20, SONY PSU Recapping [Part 2 of 2]
zhlĂŠdnutĂ 832PĹed 9 mÄsĂci
See me take apart, measure, and recap the SONY power supply in an Apple Hard Disk 20 (not SCSI) with help from my HAKKO FR-301. Watch my Mac 128Ke boot the HD20 with a daisy-chained Tash20. Part 1 is here: czcams.com/video/pa4y1jRSdew/video.html đ INDEX 0:00 - Measurements: Pre-Recap 9:50 - PSU Disassembly 12:26 - Electrolytic Capacitors 13:47 - Recapping & ESR Measurements 33:58 - Reassembly T...
Apple Hard Disk 20 (HD20) Recapping [Part 1 of 2]
zhlĂŠdnutĂ 1,5KPĹed 10 mÄsĂci
Watch me take apart and recap the RODIME 552 hard drive in an Apple HD20 drive enclosure using my new HAKKO FR-301 desoldering gun. I also replace the stock ELINA fan for a quiet Noctua. Watch Part-2 here: czcams.com/video/ve5PlBCBHfQ/video.html đ INDEX 0:00 - Intro 0:56 - Take Apart 3:31 - FloppyEMU & Tash20 6:02 - Capacitor & Screw Locations 7:39 - Hakko FR-301 Overview 11:38 - Desoldering Ol...
ROM SIMM Fun on Vintage Macs & News from VCF Midwest
zhlĂŠdnutĂ 2,2KPĹed 11 mÄsĂci
A comprehensive look at custom ROM SIMMs and FLASHING with the CayMac Vintage PROGRAMMER & Doug Brown's SIMM Programmer app. Mini vMac tutorial shows Disk image creation. ZIP archive DOWNLOAD âŹď¸ đ INDEX 0:00 - Intro 0:30 - History of ROM SIMMs 4:58 - Product Overview & Benefits 11:20 - Disk Images, ROM Files & FC8 Compression 14:48 - ROM Disk Creation 30:43 - Flashing & Testing 36:32 - For Love...
1984 Macintosh Intro Brochure
zhlĂŠdnutĂ 813PĹed rokem
Learn a little Mac & IBM PC history as we flip through each page of this 39-year-old MINT CONDITION brochure! Expand this text description for a link to the 600 dpi SCAN I made for you! âŹď¸ 600dpi brochure scan (PDF): tinyurl.com/23urtp4v đ WHERE I PURCHASED THE BROCHURE applephotographer on EBAY: tinyurl.com/y883wpby đ REFERENCE ⢠2nd Edition Brochure (what I purchased): tinyurl.com/35zda8kh ⢠...
Mac-O-Meter REVIEW
zhlĂŠdnutĂ 1,1KPĹed rokem
Super easy-to-use VOLTMETER for vintage Macs that attaches to the external floppy drive connector and displays up to 3 voltages at once. Optional Adapter allows use of any ADB cable to let you move Mac-O-Meter around freely. đ INDEX 0:00 - Intro 1:07 - Ease to Use 1:45 - Mac Compatibility 2:05 - Optional Adapter (requires ADB cable) 4:16 - Accuracy Check 6:00 - A Look Inside 9:16 - 3D Printed C...
Fat Mac Switcher
zhlĂŠdnutĂ 1,5KPĹed rokem
Make a 128K Mac FOR CHEAP with Fat Mac Switcher, but have 512K RAM too! đ INDEX 0:00 - Intro 4:11 - Installation 42:55 - Testing 58:21 - Closing Words â ď¸ CAUTION! It's OK to boot/use your compact Mac with the case-back off, but DO NOT work inside it while powered. No need to discharge the CRT for Fat Mac Switcher installs, but DO NOT touch the back of the CRT. Power off, then disconnect the mot...
SCSI Rider for BlueSCSI
zhlĂŠdnutĂ 2,9KPĹed rokem
Watch me build two awesome SCSI Rider kits from Kero's Mac Mods - great for attaching BlueSCSI v1 or v2 to a Mac SE, SE/30, Classic & Classic II, and possibly the IIcx & IIci. â´ď¸ NEW INFO: (1) SCSI Rider 1 has been confirmed to work with the Mac IIci. (2) Although the middle connector is for connecting a BlueSCSI v2, Kay said SCSI Rider 2 can replace OverEasy II. Just solder on the right-angle ...
How to Add an EMAIL Address on YouTube in 2023
zhlĂŠdnutĂ 8KPĹed rokem
This video still applies in 2024, but the mindless "leadership" at CZcams took it upon their brilliant selves to eliminate the About tab on your CZcams Channel page! They now hide it in plain sight, which is infuriating because most people will overlook it. On any CZcams Channel page, the " Welcome! ă" text link is the About tab replacement. Everything else in my video still applies. So why add...
Probe Master 8043SK Review [2023]
zhlĂŠdnutĂ 7KPĹed rokem
Premium MADE IN USA, gold-plated Probe Upgrade Kit for most any multimeter. Test leads are 18AWG with soft, burn-resistant silicone insulation. The sharp tips are great for testing, but keep them covered to injury. đ BUY FROM PROBE MASTER ⢠8043SK Kit: bit.ly/3ZaqPDp ⢠8043S (smaller kit): bit.ly/406Fm41 ⢠Tip Cover (recommended!): bit.ly/40vpV5t ⢠Leads only: bit.ly/3K22Y4u ⢠Aligator clips on...
Giveaway WINNER - Mac SE Reloaded
zhlĂŠdnutĂ 384PĹed rokem
Congratulations to the WINNER of the Mac SE Reloaded KIT Giveaway! Thanks to all who entered! I'm sure we'll have more giveaways like this in the future! đŹ MY SE RELOADED ASSEMBLY VIDEOS czcams.com/play/PLNZ4qjMn-GHp9Krb6OMwdC8bJcCF3GzNt.html đŹ MY ORIGINAL GIVEAWAY VIDEO czcams.com/video/hzbnmU7eKQY/video.html đ MORE HELPFUL INFO: ⢠My SE Reloaded BOM: bit.ly/3MF7BA9 ⢠SE Reloaded discussion th...
DIY 30pin 4MB RAM SIMMs for Vintage Macs
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DIY 30pin 4MB RAM SIMMs for Vintage Macs
Cooling a 68040 CPU with a Big Copper Heatsink
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Cooling a 68040 CPU with a Big Copper Heatsink
Apple IIe Card, FloppyEMU & Mach III Joystick [Part 2]
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Apple IIe Card, FloppyEMU & Mach III Joystick [Part 2]
Apple IIe Card in Color Classic MYSTIC [Part 1]
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Apple IIe Card in Color Classic MYSTIC [Part 1]
ProbeMaster Speedy Bends: Axial Lead Forming Tools
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ProbeMaster Speedy Bends: Axial Lead Forming Tools
Grid 1 Review - iPhone 2G Framed Wall Art by Grid Studio
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Grid 1 Review - iPhone 2G Framed Wall Art by Grid Studio
Macintosh SE Reloaded TESTING [Part 4]
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Macintosh SE Reloaded TESTING [Part 4]
Macintosh SE Reloaded BUILD [Part 3]
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Macintosh SE Reloaded BUILD [Part 3]
Macintosh SE Reloaded BUILD [Part 2]
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Spicy O'Clock: 68040 Macintosh Overclocking [2 of 2]
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Spicy O'Clock: 68040 Macintosh Overclocking [2 of 2]
Not the only calculator with touvh and zoom. What about Classpad? It has touch since 2007. Of course prime is the fastest out there but it is not the only calculator with touch and zoom.
That calculator is not allowed when taking the SAT because itâs not on the College Boardâs list of approved calculators. Furthermore, some people who have used that calculator and the HP Prime tend to prefer the prime as shown in this discussion: www.reddit.com/r/calculators/comments/bkoxsj/currently_debating_between_casio_cp400_and_hp/
I not only want to replace mainboard caps, i want to upgrade the filtering capability for noise in the circuit especially for Clock/CPU signals or mainly the Voltage Vcore filtering to make it as best as possible.. 6.3v 10v 16v maybe up to 20/24/25v caps mostly on the VRM or CPU power rails... or (if any? clock signals voltage)
Vcore input and output aka voltage in VRM usually 12volt and (CPU 800mv to 1.55v (usually the maximum on older AMD sockets)
Thanks, best video so far. Iâm doing it now with cpu paste replacement.
Everything made in china is poor quality.
I'm still trying to figure out how to store and recall intermediate values under RPN on the HP Prime. The Sto button has no effect, and there's no RCL button.
Because my two HP Prime calculators are in the possession of my children who now live away from home, I cannot verify anything by touching the actual calculator. But from memory I can say this... The HP Prime is set to Algebraic mode by default. You mentioned use of RPN. That tells me you have already pressed Shift-Home to open the Settings and then changed "Entry" from "Textbook" to "RPN." If so, we can proceed to the next step. To get STO to work, you enter something you wish to store in a variable. Let's say 5. So type a 5 and press Enter. That will appear on the stack. Now press Shift and then press Vars (to get Chars). Choose an apostrophe character then type out your variable name, then end it in an apostrophe. Example: 'AAA' Then choose OK. Now press Shift and then press EEX (for STO). The 'AAA' vanishes, which is the calculator's way of telling you that 5 has been stored in variable name AAA. The 5 will remain on the stack, however. To RECALL your variable, you just double-press the ALPHA key to initiate character lock and type the name of your variable. In my example, that means you must press the Vars key 3 times to type out AAA. Then press ENTER and your variable will appear on the stack. (In my example, that would be 5.) So that is how to use STO to store a variable and how to RECALL it. Going further, I will say that you can then press the Vars key, then tap on User, then choose User Variables to see a complete list of variables you have saved. In the case of my example, AAA should appear. If you require further assistance that the HP Prime documentation cannot answer (the documentation describes what I just mentioned to you above), I recommend you post your questions in the HP Prime forum here: www.hpmuseum.org/forum/forum-5.html
-Thanks for the detailed explanation. I haven't had a chance to open the HP Prime user guide yet (I will eventually), but your detailed explanation above shows that storing and recalling numbers on the Prime involves many keystrokes. Without the dedicated STO and RCL buttons found on previous generations of HP RPN calculators, the HP Prime lost the keystroke efficiency that HP RPN calculators were known for.
Is there anyone creating these boards after three years? thx.
68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/building-an-internal-grayscale-card-for-the-se-30.39910/
Greatđđź
Thanks so much, my first bake lasted from 2020 until last week, so, thanks for the detailed advice and information, bake two was a breeze
Very nice and informative video. Thanks for posting. Iâll be ordering a set like yours as it looks quite complete.
Just got my kit earlier today. Exactly like yours. I am so impressed. Very high quality. Very pleasant to use. A solid product that works and will last forever. Too, Probe Master sent with the kit a pamphlet that was the US Constitution. Very thoughtful and I really appreciated the gesture. I called them to thank them for such a great product and for the patriotic gift. As you probably know, their products are all made and assembled in El Cajon, California. Itâs impressive to find that a U.S. based company has the best quality product.
@JDW- Hello again :) In the fall of 2023 I was baking and it worked, I wrote about it then and you replied that you were happy for me :) However, a few days ago the problem happened again and the graphics card failed. I think this time it's the fault of Windows 7, which I installed on my iMac thanks to the courtesy of Apple's software that allows you to use Windows on their hardware, but it overheated the graphics card, well... only here I see the reason, because I didn't find any effective program to control the fan speed (like the one you recommended on Apple), here you could only see the temperature reading of the processor cores and nothing else. Tomorrow I will make a second attempt at baking and I hope it will work. But I came up with an idea for an alternative solution and I want to ask if you or anyone here has tried to replace the internal graphics card with another external card, connected with some kind of adapter or Raiser and led out of the case with a cable (because it can be tight inside without removing the DVD drive and disk. (I have the 2011 version) So far I have found 2 adapters (mxm to m.2, and m.2 to pcie or express), which connected together would allow you to connect the graphics card, I have not yet found a direct adapter from mxm to pcie.. but there are still questions about whether the Apple-built system will accept such a graphics card and whether it will work, because it should be hardware compatible. (Maybe someone knows the list of acceptable graphics card models)? Another alternative is a 4 GB mxm card, I found one in a local offer, but the seller did not agree to perform a connection test to check if it would work and I do not know if anyone has tried and whether the newer ones cards were in a different technology that won't burn out? I would be very grateful for your answer and response to the questions.
Woohoo JDW is back! And with an hour long video! What a great day.
It's packed with meaty stuff, so be sure to expand the text description and grab the ZIP archive I mention in the video. Even if you don't have a ROM-inator, the content will be helpful when you use Mini vMac. And don't miss the Stuffit Deluxe 16 download either! Have fun!
Would this work on say an LC 475/Performa 476 Mac?
Just ordered a bunch of your Parts Cart so I can practice recapping all of my 800K and 1.44MB Apple Floppy drives!
Well, i am dissapointed. I was hoping I could make a long chime out of the first 90 seconds of thunderstruck.
Select the most magical 1.3 seconds out of that first 90 seconds and you're golden.
@@JDW- I guess that will have to do....
Thanks for the thorough and informative review. A+
Great to see you back! đ
WOW-that was intense!!! As usual, you made a very thorough video on how to do an interesting mod. You definitely spent a lot of time preparing the support files, emulators, and disk images-Iâll grab those!
Yes, this video took me more than a month of intense work to create. A bit part of the process is TESTING. Testing, testing, and more testing. Consulting Steve C. and Rob B., and then doing more testing. Some things I thought were insurmountable problems, I ultimately was able to solve, and the solution is what I show in my video. Besides all that, I spent many hours putting together the software in the ZIP archive, which included writing instructions and also making sure every little thing works flawlessly, so no one using my ZIP archive will run into problems. And then of course, I had to write a script, film and edit. Making CZcams videos is easy when you don't really care, but it's down right hard where you're meticulous. And you have come to learn that on your own channel. And on that note, I wish to commend you for your efforts, Mark! I look forward to seeing more of your own great content soon!
@@JDW- That was a TON of effort you put into that video-and we REALLY APPRECIATE IT James! Thatâs really time consuming too! Yes, decent videos DO take time! Thank you for the kind words re: my channel! Iâve been doing Lisa research and will be shooting my A Brief History of the Apple Lisa episode very soon!
Ah yes I remmeber SoundMaster.
Be sure to reliving that memory by expanding the text description and grabbing my Zip Archive. Sound Master v1.5 works great when booted into System 4.1 and Finder 5.3, which is a must for a Mac 512K. A Mac Plus can run System 6, so you can run newer versions of SoundMaster, but the operation is pretty much the same as v.1.5. The downside to v1.5 is that you need to create RAW audio files for it, akin to what the ROM-inator needs, and then you need to adjust the Type and Creator so SoundMaster will spot the files on your disk. Newer versions of SoundMaster can accept a wider variety of audio file formats. And of course, as mentioned in my video, System 6.0.4 and later will allow you to use Finder sounds, denoted by an "Ć" character in the SoundMaster control panel.
Glad to see ya back on the video lines, JDW! Makes me wish I had a 512âŚbut, there is a Plus that might just get the ROM-inator treatment. Great video on how to make the best of that upgrade. [aka JdM74]
Thanks. I know you're a man of details like me, so I consider that high praise. Be sure to check out the text description too. I tried to links to most of what I talked about in the video. I even threw in a link to my T-shirt. Thank you Javier Rivera of 8-bit Tees! đ
Awesome
Lots of great info, thanks JDW!
I am on a mission to revive a Macintosh IIsi I ordered on eBay but with no plans to use the rominator. Maybe one day. Also no worries about the long hiatus. :)
Thanks. IIsi, you say? Well, my other ROM SIMM video is perfect for you, because those "ROM-inator II" type SIMMs are compatible with your IIsi: czcams.com/video/8eeXd0hVBMk/video.html
Glad to see you back JDW! - signed Professor Lund
Thanks!
One more thing, you have been very instrumental in making my SE/30 a joy to upgrade and remembering my good times with the SE/30 in the early 90s.
It warms my heart to hear that, Frank. Thank you. Nostalgia is a big part of why Iâm in this hobby and so enthusiastic about it.
Can't wait to see the power supply. I have an SE/30 that is giving me problems. I have to wiggle my power cord for the Mac to work, sometimes.
nice job đ
Very detailed James - thanks! Out of interest does the CLI minipro (on Gitlab) work with the T48? I use it on my Mac a lot with my TL866..
Thank you very much for the tip! I was completely unaware of the "experimental" support for the T48. The last I had checked, there was zero support. So this is good news. I hope to give that a try later this evening. And for those of you reading this, the URL to the software being discussed here is this: gitlab.com/DavidGriffith/minipro/
Okay, I installed MiniPro, and here's my take on it. It's too difficult for the average user to use in the macOS Terminal. Even if someone is comfortable in the Terminal, you're reading and writing chips here, so I think it would make such work error prone. Besides, using the Terminal to get work done is hardly different from DOS in the 1980s. It's the command line. So I would not recommend my fellow Mac users to use MiniPro in the Terminal. Instead... I recommend everyone install the GUI interface, which is just a nicer face slapped onto MiniPro, which you still need to install via the Terminal. Download the GUI app here: github.com/DLXXV-Kelvin/MiniPro-GUI/blob/main/MiniPro%20GUI.zip This video takes you through setup of the GUI interface: czcams.com/video/LeMdDJGHK2Y/video.htmlsi=viujadKETbnUrAu9 There are scary "T48 support is experimental" warnings everywhere, which is a bother, but it can't be helped. I attached my T48 via USB to my late 2015 5K iMac at the office and was able to verify the programmer and chip operation. I didn't spend too much time with it, but everything I tried worked as expected. With that said, the official Windoze (proper spelling) app supported by the T48 manufacturer in China is easier overall to use than the GUI app on the Mac. But the upside is that we Mac users at least have a good option, especially when a household lacks a PC to use. So thank you for bringing the T48 compatibility to my attention. MiniPro can be a lifesaver for some!
I tried minipro on both macOS and Linux and could never get it to work properly. A lot of CLI tools make gross assumptions you know all of whatâs to be known and their help isnât much help. If thereâs a guide [even notes] on proper use of miniproâŚ.lets make that into a guide somewhereâŚso we donât have to resort to having a windoze PC around for our chip burning needs.
@@cool_tr6 Be sure to expand out my previous post and click the CZcams link I provided. That fellow shows how to setup the GUI. I followed what he did and was able to get it to work. But even before that, I use a few commands in the Terminal to see if communication worked, and my T48 responded. The GUI app is just a more friend face on the command line. It's not as fully fleshed out as the dedicated Windoze (proper spelling) app is, but for Mac-only homes, it can come in handy. With that said, I only spent a half hour or so on it last night. I did not flash any chips either. Just confirmed communication was working, and I did a blank check on an ancient UV-erasable PIC I had in my drawer since the 1990s. The chip responded without issue.
So excited to see your return to CZcams!
So many videos to come as well !
So happy to see you back ! :)
Still have HP 12c gold from 1984, still love the simplicity and I believe my batteries lasted 12 + years.
Thank you for making time to let me know your 12c Gold battery life. Twelve years is excellent! đ
@JDW Armor Alley on Mac is actually based on Apple II's Rescue Raiders, not Choplifter. They both have you flying a helicopter, but Rescue Raiders/Armor Alley adds a 1D real time strategy component (in addition to your helicopter, you order equipment (tanks, etc) to send against the enemy)
What a great video! Congratulations!!! I think it is the best one on this topic.
What a great video! Congratulations!!! I think it is the best one on this topic.
my old iMac ( core 2 duo ) late 2009 my try upgrade HD 6970 but in Working on running sierra. Thank of help my upgrade gpu
I cannot understand if you had success or failure with that card in your iMac. But what I can say is that the 6970M, when flashed with iMac compatible firmware (not just an out-of-box card for Windows PCs), the card will function properly in a late 2009 Core 2 Duo iMac. But as was true in the case of my late 2009 Intel i7 iMac 27", so cutting of plastic is required to make the card physically fit. Heat and power consumption were not an issue for my model, but I am unsure about the Core 2 Duo. Regardless, using something like MacsFanControl is prudent to ensure fans run faster than normal to keep your machine cooler, in light of the fact it will run hotter than before.
Thanks
Thank you!
what size thermal pad is required for the GPU of a A1311 2010 21.5 imac?
I absolutely have no idea. I canât even tell you what thermal pads are required for the card that is at the heart of my video series. And that is precisely why I recommendK5 Pro, which is a thermal pad replacement paste. The benefits of that or that you donât need to measure anything. You just put it on and then any excess will squeeze out the sides. It works no differently than a normal thermal pad, just better because no measuring and sizing is required.
@@JDW- â @JDW- Tnanks. I ended up going with the pads because of the import fee's associated with the K5/K4 Pro (it's not sold locally in South Africa). After some research I'v taken a chance and ordered 1.5mm pads. I'v also ordered a Quadro K1100M because it likely doesn't have the design flaw of the older ATI Radeon cards, despite having one or two issues with the OS.
@Ambience20 Global availability of K5 Pro is unfortunately hit and miss. Thank you for letting me know. Please feel free to report back with an update about how your 1.5mm thermal pads fit.
Well My Brother's SE30 is off getting recapped and I'm getting his Diimo 030 card redone as per this video. I've also seen your "Rom Fun" video, it has a 8Mb Caymac Rom and BMOW disk image. In short: this is all your fault :D I've also Got an HD40 SC coming for his old hard drive and will be attempting to follow your recap video for that....... Internal replaced with Blue SCSI. Fantastic videos/guides. Thank you.
Thank you for sharing your old Mac adventure story. Iâm happy to take the blame because recapping and upgrades are what the hobby is all about. Iâm actually working on a script for a new video right now where I revisit the original ROM-inator (for the 128K, 512K and Plus), showing people how to make and flash longer boot chimes. Itâs all part of the fun in making these machines do incredible things that wasnât possible back in the day. Of course, only geeks like this sort of thing, but like you, a wear my geekiness as a badge of honor! Best wishes!
Great video thank you! I wonder if you can help me make a decision on caps for my 1997 vehicle ECU. I am keeping this vehicle long term and am working on recapping the ECU for preventative maintenance. Thankfully the 3 original electrolytic caps have not leaked as others with the same make/year have already leaked and ruined the PCB. Anyways, the 3 caps as I said are classic electrolytic, looks like a mini AA battery. The specs are Nichicon, H9633, 105C, 25V, 220uF. Since it's for a car ECU located in the engine bay they should also be AEC-Q200 rated. Being that there's only 3, the cost isn't that big of a deal to me. I don't mind spending a few extra bucks for something I will never have to worry about for the rest of mt life. Can I replace those old electrolytic ones with solid polymer caps of the same voltage, temp and capacitance and expect it to work the same? Some say you have to get caps with like 1/2 the capacitance if switching to polymer from electrolytic because of lower ESR. I really want something that will far outlast the old ones which have lasted nearly 27 years. I know you said you aren't into the hybrid ones but so far it sounds like they are my best option and have better functionality compared to the classic electrolytic. I saw one that matches my dimensions and capacitance and has a higher temp rating, 145C at 2000H. Some say the lifetime doubles every 10C drop in operating temp. Would that mean these are rated at 32,000H at 105C? Is there a capacitor I could put in there to replace the old electrolytics and basically know I will never have to replace them again? The dimensions are ~8mm diameter and ~16mm tall or long and they are in a horizontal resting position, radial mount type. Please let me know what you think, thanks!
Maybe its better to ask about solid vs liquid capacitors. Can I switch to solid polymer or ceramic of the same voltage, capacitance, temp? I've found a couple solid polymers and 1 dipped ceramic (very expensive) but none of them are AEC-Q200 rated. Would it be better to get those or go with a liquid cap rated for AEC-Q200?
To eliminate need to swap them out again, you would need a solid electrolyte capacitor. âHybrid Polymerâ only better in terms of certain specifications relative to normal aluminum electrolytic capacitors. But the fact remains that Hybrids have a FLUID (not solid) electrolyte, and anything fluid will find its way out over time. Even if the fluid by some miracle never leaks, it can dry out. This is why the idea capacitor has a solid electrolyte which can never leak or dry out. And such a capacitor can be found on Mouser, matching your physical size criterion, as well as capacitance, voltage and high hour rating at 105°C: www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Chemi-Con/APSG250ELL221MHB5S?qs=nxZbHzLpdve2AQv2batcYQ%3D%3D Of course, my proposed replacement does not have AEC-Q200 certification. Many capacitors you look for in recapping applications donât. Admittedly, you are the first person who has come along wanting to recap an automotive ECU. I have worked 30 years in the vehicle aftermarket, and I can say that for our aftermarket products, we almost never use capacitors with AEC-Q200 stress test certification to save cost, and weâve never had a capacitor failure. However, we deal in vehicle security systems, not the ECU. The ECU is a critical vehicle component, so it is prudent to have the best capacitors possible. AEC-Q200 guarantees you a capacitor which has been tested in a way that comes close to matching the harsh environment of a vehicle. With that said, fluid-filled aluminum electrolytic capacitors are not great capacitors to begin with. Their ESR rises a surprising amount at 0°C and lower, and longevity centers on their fluid electrolyte not leaking or drying up. These are things that cannot be resolved by AEC-Q200 stress testing. In comparison, the solid electrolyte capacitor I linked for you above is superior in many ways to the stock capacitors in your ECU. They are simply not stress tested. Also, when considering hour-rating, you need to also consider that capacitor manufacturers donât guarantee anything beyond 20 years or so, regardless of what the math calculates with respect to the hour-rating and the average temperature in your environment. For example, you can find some high-hour rating aluminum electrolytic capacitors rated at 125°C, and the math may suggest they have a 40-year life, but in reality, that fluid inside them limits their life, and as I said, the make of those parts doesnât guarantee their operation beyond 20 years or so. My only concern about swapping out with a very low ESR type like the capacitor I linked for you is that I have no idea how they are used in your ECU. If there is a switching power supply on the ECU board and if those capacitors are critical components in that power supply, it could be the power supply requires a minimum ESR for the capacitors used. Probably not in the case of 200ÂľF capacitors, but I cannot say for sure. What happens if the switching power supply controller requires capacitors with a minimum ESR but you use something lower than the minimum? Well, the output of that power supply would very likely become noisy at best, completely unstable at worst. But sans having a schematic, the only way to know would be to swap them out and test. But because an ECU is a critical car component, the best approach would be to put an oscilloscope on the voltage output to ensure it remains stable after recap. Meaning, you would need to see the noise on the output voltage before and after the recap to compare. And Iâm guessing that you may not have a scope. This is the best advice I can give you, but I would strongly suggest you visit the EEVBlog forum and put your question to the engineers there because some will surely have automotive ECU design experience and can give you more experienced advice. Keep in mind though that recapping is not embraced by everyone. Some people think itâs a crazy idea. It is in some cases but not in others, so donât be discouraged by people who claim you never need to recap anything. There are people like that. But it could be that posting in the EEVBlog forum will garner you more specific advice, especially in regard to AEC-Q200 certification for replacement capacitors you intend to use in an important vehicle component like an ECU.
@@JDW- Wow, thank you for taking so much time to help me! I am very interested in that polymer option you found, even though it doesnât have the AEC-Q200 certification. I compared the stress test data from the datasheet with a liquid AEC-Q200 cap and they are fairly similar. The ECU I am working on is what I might call poorly designed for future maintenance. The circuit board isnât even a circuit board, itâs like a giant flexibleâŚribbon cable? Which is adhered to a sheet of aluminum and bent over like a book. It was very hard to get open and has some minor damage just from that so I really donât want to have to do it again. Most ECUâs are a typical metal box with a solid PCB screwed inside it. If it were a lot easier to open up I would be less concerned about putting liquid caps back in because I could just recap it every 15 years or so. Anyways. I am not very experienced with electronics, Iâm your average diy. So I donât know about the possibility of it having a switching power supply. (I also donât have a scope or the knowledge of testing with one.) I wonder if I could get you a picture of the ECU where the 3 caps are located if you could tell me if it looks like it has what you were talking about or not? It may not be the best comparison, but there is a guy on youtube who replaced liquid caps with solid polymer in his ECU 4 years ago it seems he has had no problems. His was from a different make/year than mine though. If I do replace mine with the solid polymer I will be making some extra precautions for heat and humidity although I doubt there will be an issue. I couldnât find a schematic of the ecu but I found a connector pinout which mentioned the voltage to the ecu is only 5v. Iâm not sure if that tells us anything or not. I will likely check out the EEVblog as well. It will be a couple months before I do the recap but Iâm getting my homework done ahead of time. Please let me know if a picture of the PCB would help decide if solid polymers will be a good idea or not Thanks again!
@wekeeptruckin it could be that only 5V enters your ECU but there may be a 5V to 3.3V step down converter on it. You could take a photo and post it to an online sharing service and try to post a link to that here, but it would need to be high enough resolution to see the part numbers on the chips to know if itâs a switching power supply. The entire point here is determine if there is indeed a switching power supply on the ECU and if so, what is the main controller chip part number, and then Google that part number so as to find a datasheet l to see what the input and output capacitor requirements are with regard to ESR (resistance of the capacitors). If there is no minimum ESR, then you have nothing to worry about when using very low ESR polymer capacitors.
@@JDW- Ok, I will look into the photo thing. I am a bit concerned about the humidity factor causing premature wear on the polymers. Do those need to breathe or could I coat them in silicone caulking or conformal coating to seal them off from humidity?
After Fixing a Mac 128K Logicboard and Analog board, I focus on the 400K Floppy drive. After Recap, lubrication and assembly. I could boot from it, initialize disks, copy files, and eject perfectly but I have a question regarding the behavior at power on without a Floppy on the drive. If I power the Mac 128K, the disk spins, but keep trying to eject but no floppy on the drive. If I put a floppy in, everything behaves normally. This is a Mac 128K with -A ROMS. The question is, normal behavior or not?
Thank you for your feedback. "Constantly trying to eject" is NOT normal behavior. As I mention at 12:44 though, mismatched ROMs and 400K drives will result only in a Sad Mac, not a constant eject problem. Most likely, one of the black plastic IR sensors is dirty or otherwise blocked. If you watch from 21:45, you will see me remove a plastic piece from the middle of one of those IR sensors (aka "optical sensors"). That moving plastic piece must be removed for inspection and cleaning. Also, that IR sensor near the front of the drive detects whether or not a disk is inserted. A different IR sensor pertains to the eject mechanism. I would suggest you inspect and clean all the IR sensors, then test again. If the problem is gone, you're done. If the problem is not solved, it could be anything from a jammed mechanical part that requires lubrication, to a fault on the circuit board. But when investigating problems like that, it's often helpful to have more than one vintage Mac in which to test, to ensure you can rule out issues possibly caused by the Mac itself. I don't think the Mac is causing the problem in your case. I am just trying to speculate "what ifs" right now, assuming your IR Sensor cleaning doesn't work. I suspect it will though as such has worked for me in the past.
@@JDW- Thanks for your reply, regarding the black Sensor, I cleaned the sensor and nothing is in the middle of it. The behavior is only when no disk is inserted. Any other Idea?
@@user-xp8yl5pk7w When you said there is "nothing in the middle of it," I assume you mean there is no dirt there, but if you mean there is no plastic piece there, it's a problem. Because as you can see in my video, there must be a moving piece of plastic in the middle part of that sensor. If you have no dirty and you also have the correct piece of plastic (which slides) in the middle of your sensor, and if you have indeed inspected and cleaned all the IR sensors, not just that one, then like I said in my previous reply, the problem could be related to something frozen up on the drive. Your opening post indicates you fully cleaned and lubed the drive, that would point to another problem. But those problems are rare. In the vast majority of cases, "constant ejection" problems pertain to the optical sensors. The other problems are problems indeed because they pertain to either the ejection motor or the circuit board itself. And that's why I said in my previous reply that having another Mac of the same type is useful, so you can try the drive in that other Mac to see if it has the same problem, and if it does, then you know the problem is absolutely on the drive, and the problem has nothing to do with the Mac at all.
@@JDW- Yes no dirt, sprint is working and the plastic arm is there moving perfectly. Maybe the Sensor is bad... The question will be if I can get a replacement, part. The one on the left must be the issue.
@@user-xp8yl5pk7w Your best option is to find a cheap or free junk 400K drive for the purpose of using its parts. Most likely, the junk drive is just mechanically frozen and has a good circuit board and sensors. In fact, if you had such a drive, you could swap the PCB to see if that made a change. If not, you could then resort to swapping only that one IR sensor. I do this sort of thing myself. I usually have working devices and then junk devices as spare parts. I know this isnât the type of fast solution you are seeking, but Iâm afraid that youâve already tried cleaning the sensor and found that didn't work, and youâve cleaned and lubed the drive itself, which is why the only explanation for the continued troubles must be either a bad sensor or something wrong on the circuit board.
Hey there, the mouser linked for the 512k says some stuff in the cart is back ordered, these still the right parts to get right? Also do you have a link for the RIFA capacitor? Thank you!!
Thank you for letting me know. I have updated the Mouser cart so there are no more backordered items. If your question about the RIFA pertains to the one on the Analog Board, that is contained in the Mouser Cart I provide in the text description under my Analog Board video here: czcams.com/video/Ng8F_QVgaTc/video.html
@JDW- fantastic thank you!! I want to replace as many parts that should be replaced as I can but very new to understanding the compatible modern vs old caps and other components. These lists are a life saver. If you have any other that you'd suggest that would be supper helpful! Thank you again JDW-!!
Thank you for your kind words. You asked if I have any other capacitor lists, and the answer is that I do, depending on the configuration of your machine. For example, there are electrolytic capacitors inside floppy drives, and I have recapping videos about that, whether it be 400K, 800K, or 1.44MB. Floppy Drive Maintenance czcams.com/play/PLNZ4qjMn-GHqrhYQMnoam-60tCEMctXGp.html
@JDW- oh great to know! I have the Sony drives. There are a little strange and not those thin ones. I will check on the exact number and serial name. Great to know!
HP 50g is the best calculator ever made for engineers that can program.
I'd argue it's the best calculator ever made, even for technical people who can't program. Alas, most people have a Brain Cloud that prevents them from learning RPN. And yet, RPN is what great HP calculators are all about. Therein lies greatness!
It maybe true, but it has a very terrible screen that's extremely hard to read under most lighting conditions.
We are discussing the HP 50g here, so if you are referring to that, I must say you are the first person Iâve heard who has remarked that the LCD is âterrible.â Younger folks who are primarily comparing older display technology to state-of-the-art iPhone display tech would of course share your sentiments. But when I personally use my 50g in a room with lighting thatâs adequate for me to read a piece of paper without straining my eyes, I find the 50g to be completely adequate and most certainly not âterrible.â But if I were a younger person demanding a very high resolution backlit color screen, and if I were to use a 50g, I would of course find it lacking âin comparison.â So it really does depend on you, and what youâre comparing it to.
@@JDW- As much as I'd like to believe I'm still a member of the "Younger folks," I'm over 60. My first calculator in college was the HP-41c. Then I moved on to the HP-42s. The HP-42s had a worse display than the HP-41c, but it was still very decent. I also own an HP-12c, HP-17BII, HP-19BII, HP-30b, HP-33s, HP-34s, HP-50g, and an HP Prime that I bought two weeks ago. The HP-34c has a great high-contrast display with a large viewing angle. The HP-50g has BY FAR the worst display of them all, and I'm NOT comparing the HP-50g's display to bright cell phone displays. The display of the HP-50g has a very limited viewing angle and is only usable during the day with bright background lighting. It's exceedingly hard to read at night when it's illuminated with desk lamps.
@@stevew3978 Thank you for clarifying. It must simply be a difference between our eyes then. Because the way my eyes see my HP calculator displays is pretty much the way my 4K camera shows the LCDs in my video. For example, let's compare my older 48GX LCD to the newer 50g. See 22:40 for the 48GX LCD. See 24:06 for the 50g display, which when compared to what you just saw on the 48GX display is clearer to my eyes, especially because the background color on the 50g is lighter and more white than the 48GX. I also adjust the LCD "Contrast" by way of pressing-and-holding the ON button and then pressing "+" or "-" to increase or decrease the contrast (i.e., adjust for your viewing angle). With that said, I can only describe my personal use case and show what my camera sees in my video. That doesn't put me in your shoes, of course. So everyone will have their own take on what their own eyes see, with or without glasses. I'm still a youngster at the age of 53, but I am looking at my calculator without glasses. Looking through corrective lenses may obscure the screen, perhaps.
no venden display para la hp 39gs?
Lamentablemente, HP no se ha mostrado entusiasmado con sus productos de calculadora desde hace mucho tiempo. Y, hasta donde yo sĂŠ, ningĂşn proveedor externo se ha ofrecido nunca a ofrecer este tipo de piezas de repuesto.
Friends, Iâm excited to report that Garrettâs Workshop has their amazing dual 8 MB ROM SIMM on sale as of July 2, 2024. The first batch is available on eBay at the following URL, with more to come soon. www.ebay.com/itm/256554602527
The Mouser baskets for this and the analog board saved me a ton of work. Those customer numbers were especially helpful and made recapping a breeze! Thank you so much for that!
Love your videos! Thanks for the great information! I'm fairly new to all this, how can you tell the polarity for the MLCC caps, or does it not have a polarity? I am finding conflicting information online, and the case itself doesn't seem to have any markings, and the board doesn't denote it either. I'm assuming the orientation doesn't matter, but I just want to be sure.
Thank you for your kind words. MLCC caps (aka ceramic capacitors) are not polarized. They work properly in either orientation.
@@JDW- Thanks for the quick response and helpful information! I really appreciate it!
hi mate what ssd drive u have mounted there? . i bought a 2010 imac cheap price and im uprading it but some hard drives dont have the sensor option.
I this also applied to imac that has black screen problem?
Sometimes, but not all the time. It could be that your backlight simply is not working, and to confirm that you need to power on the machine and then shine a flashlight into the screen. If you see something, the backlight is the problem. If you see nothing, itâs the graphics card.
@@JDW- do i need to also renew the thermal paste or not, when baking the GC?
@@Mikey_Official Absolutely positively REMOVE all the existing thermal paste BEFORE your bake! Then after the bake and after your card cools, you will need to apply new thermal paste. I recommend K5 Pro on the memory chips because it is a thermal pad replacement paste that can be used without need to measure anything. I recommend Arctic MX-4 paste on the GPU chip, not only because it has good thermal transfer, but because it has 8-year durability. Use 99% or 100% IPA to clean off the old paste. Yes, 70% will work, but it has a lot of water in it. 100% IPA has no water and is a more powerful cleaner, and it won't harm your PCB either.
@@JDW- how much does all of this gonna cost me, and can i just use a regular thermal paste on the chip and the gpu instead?
Does replacing all electrolyte capacitors with SOLID capacitors makes my CRT tv last another 30 years ?
If the replacements are properly chosen, in terms of the capacitors, the answer to your question is yes. But it could be that another component within your CRT TV might fail in the next 30 years. Specifically, the flyback transformer is often a point of failure.