Video

Yes, it is 👍🏻

The hall sensor only tells you which magnetic field he is/was sensing. So when you assemble everything and you rotate the motor then you rotate the magnets. They pass by the hall sensor and then the hall sensor tells the controller the orientation of the magnets in the motor. No need to "set" them before assembly

You have to turn the magnet around

That was all on an Insta360 x2

some controllers are programmed, or wired, to run either ,with or without, hall sensors, I'd be interested in trying that. which specific controller did you get?

Living life on the edge!

i have a 1000 watt front hub motor and it started vibrating, rapid pulsing, like it was single phasing, i had a open motor lead act similar, but this one also gives my controller a 03 error, motor wiring problem, have mine out and apart like his, i have no board, just sensors mounted like his and straight to the wires leading back to the controller, so the symptom was vibrating motor operation until the 03 error then shut off.

probably could but his test is so much better for active switching, i am pleased to see this simple test, I'm just going to plug my controller wiring back in no need for a separate power supply

Glad it will be some use to you. I saw on one of your recent videos your at about 9k miles on yours now?!!! Thats mental! Really good to see they are lasting that sort of distance though

and yes, used the same sealant for the motor covers, but.... I used a tiny bead of it around the motor and it was probably still way too much so it might be worth finding a way to spread a thin layer of it rather than laying down a bead.

@@AndySV1K yeah i think my bearings finally had it after 9.5K miles. Not sure though because when I took off the wheel I noticed the side of the motor was badly scraping against the side shell of the SherMax, so what I thought was a bad bearing may have just been the motor scraping the side of the shell. I'm still going to change the bearings anyway since they are the original and I have replacement bearings. I'll be looking at this video on how to take apart the motor! Thanks!

Yes absolutely, main benefit to the bench power supply is you can accurately control the current. If i didn't have that, i'd probably butcher a USB lead and use a phone charger type power supply as USB is 5vdc too.

The only thing I can think is that they have started sealing them? maybe start gently prying it off with a flat blade or screwdriver to see if it budges.

@@AndySV1K So apparently Ewheels silicon's them on when they swap out the batteries and mine just happens to be glued on tighter then the hubs of hell.... Joy, now i get to send them the whole wheel instead of a battery. Thanks for the help though :)

@@RoninPyro77 You could try a silicone remover on it, or just pry it off gently. Although that probably helps with weather sealing, personally i would prefer mine not to be glued down, firstly if i need to get access while out an about it would be a nightmare and secondly I doubt the screen itself would be waterproof anyway. Best of luck with it!

Would be just over 70Kg

@@AndySV1K you are lighter than some women I know… you don’t look thin tho? How tall are you? Does this weight include your ride gear? Just curious…

@@pinoyuzie1557 It's all muscle! 😁 I'm guessing with all the clothing i'm probably 75Kg ish

@@AndySV1K alright that is good for you. Hope you make more videos and More power to your channel. Thank you for your time and for the information you provided in your content. Cheers.

@@pinoyuzie1557womens over 70kg are not attractive

I don't believe so but I haven't seen any of these personally.

Thanks your kind comment. Really appreciate it. Yes absolutely feed it a 5v supply from a plug in adapter. That’s actually how I built my tester with just a cheap 1amp supply 👍🏻

@@AndySV1K thank you! Subscribed and waiting for the next vid!

This was me damaging it. I've hardly ever seen a hall sensor fail on it's own, they are incredibly reliable components.

@@AndySV1K Search hub motor repair on yt. They're almost entirely on hall sensor replacement.

@@12villages That's maybe because they are the only component inside a hub motor, but from my experience the only real problems i've seen has been from water or physical damage. I'm sure they do fail but if you look at the work they are doing in a wheel travelling at 50mph it's immense!

No, roll bars should be a pretty easy swap. Screws at the bottom where the rolls bars are actually screwed in place, disconnect lights. Then you may have to undo the side panel screws, either all of them or just enough of them to allow it to release the roll bars. No need to touch the main board, battery or wiring. 👍🏻

@@AndySV1K awesome, thanks for the help 🤙🏼

Haha yeah the decking workshop wasn’t the best idea 😄 My garage isn’t fully setup as a workshop yet and full of junk from a house move so the next time I do a repair it will hopefully be in there.

Interesting that the max is much different to the older version. Largely I think the build quality is really good. Few bits I don’t like but it’s definitely better than early wheels I’ve repaired.

The pipe was just a piece of scaffold tube I had lying around. Normally I’d use a breaker bar (long handled ratchet). For the silicone I can’t remember the brand but it’s a neutral silicone so non acid type that won’t attack the metal.

Let me know how yours looks inside as apparently they’ve fixed it on later batches so hopefully you won’t have the same problem

I got my shermax today and I have peeped into the inner workings. I can vouch that there is not absolutely no silicone but compared to all the other silicone fittings it just seemed so miniscule compared to the rest. So little in fact I can almost see inside the motor like in the video. To reiterate I got a brand new shermax Oct. 10, 2022. To compare the issue of silicone for the motor is quite close to this video just without actually seeing the motor. You would think if they fixed the problem they would have had a very healthy amount of silicone. As I was going in I felt confident seeing all the well done sealing and the motor sealing is sub par. If this is a fixed batch somebody, if not most of us, need to get on their case to fix the issue properly. From what I have seen there is no need for that little amount of silicone. It should be filled right to the brim like the rest of the reliable seals they have made!

Must have been when separating the cover from the motor. I didn’t have the tool I’d normally use for it so was just using a flat screwdriver. Probably went a bit heavy handed 😄

Also, how did you repair the hall sensor? Was it an easy thing to do?

Thanks very much. I’ll head there again hopefully on a weekday so it’s quieter and film some of the trails. It’s a decent place to ride!

I didn’t take any bearing measurements I’m afraid so can’t help with that. If I take it to pieces again any time soon I’ll get the specs for them.

Mine wasn’t glued down in anyway. Just four screws and it pops straight off.

I found working it gently up with a putty knife helps. It's not glued, but the seal is a little sticky.

​@@BrockJudkins Thank you for your response. What do you think about heating the top cover with the hair dryer to open it easier?

@@Monarhh369 I'm not smart enough to know without trying. I would worry about damaging the electronics with heat but in reality it can probably take a lot of heat

Get a bunch of "Honeywell SS41" same chip on all 3 of them.

I've never bought new Hall sensors I just take them out of old broken motors. They'll all the same they are switches will turn on and off they all do the same thing. I only done one yesterday form old 350w hoverboard motor in to a 1000w hub motor.

@@scottrocks1993 Me too but it wasn't much fun to start taking apart old motors, some chips are bad, others break when you pull them, I just ordered some from Ali, they are cheap and should save a lot of time on new builds.

do u know why didn’t working all sensor on some bldc motor ? its very wired sensor work same but only some special number sensor work with bldc motor.

@@aatmasoul9508 You need bipolar hall sensors. ss41 for example.

It’s a Synco G2. 2 transmitters and one receiver. Comes with lapel mics and a case. You can also charge all three with a single USB lead as it comes with 3 way USB C lead. Really impressed with it.

It varied quite a lot as I was learning the new wheel. Lots of stops and starts, many hard acceleration and braking tests etc. I would say my average speed was fairly low and ranged between 15-25mph