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Thats a great video for a learner like myself, thanks.

Video was very helpful. Thank you for that. I'm also using a small CNC and the start depth for the male cut stressed my little CNC a lot. The new method makes a lot of sense. I would have one question. I was reading also the guide from Zank & Durriant. The are also using the 3-2-1 method but male start depth and male flat depth are just the other way around. I.e. female flat depth is 0.3, male start depth is 0.1 (instead of 0.2) and male flat depth is 0.2 (instead of 0.1.). I was thinking that a male flat depth of 0.2. might lead to a tighter fit of the inlay. Any comments on that?

I wish you were my naber

Thank you what a great video. Certainly made getting that zero spot on. However when I tried, I created the button and loaded it upon. But when I click on button script edit my button does not flash to be selected.

22:06 Great video! How do you switch between using the spindle and laser? Is it just 2 different Mach3 profiles or to you have to switch the connections every time?

Excellent, thanks for sharing.

i just looking i make 4th axis too, can build under 300$ same. simple add one stepper motor axis more to cnc. woodworker not need big expensive spindle, lot cheapen small spindle only need 4th ax.

Turned out nice Howard.

Nie design howard. Thanks for sharing your insights.

Very nice! I now have a clear path on buying and setting up a 4th axis.

22:36 Oops, round squiggles. you pressed too hard with the random orbit sander

Hi Howard. I am in the beginning stages of purchasing a 4th axis and I was wondering if you had any updates on this kit? Any issues you have had and would you purchase it again? Great job on the video!!

Hello I have the same laser and can’t figure out which post prossesor to use I’m running a shop Sabre pro 408 with vcarve and win cnc

The 1st offset was better. Milling out the entire square on the male is a waste of time. Takes <30sec on a scroll/band to cut it out.

This is awesome Howard, very much appreciated. I am using this technique to set up my laser cross hair for my Lasertree K30 diode laser. Thanks so much

Thanks for the tip!

9:20 the shaded "tab" on the right: If you define your material to be ever so slightly wider on X, the endmill could mill there and the tab will disappear

Great video, for sure closer to getting this done for myself. . . but it is telling me that it is going to take 197 hours. LOL.

Merci pour vos super vidéos

Woow super sir

Cool

I have tried this many times, It works, but once I save the file and go back and run it, the top text never carves out. Any ideas?

Thank you , this video very helpful ❤❤❤

One basic question: What tool for which company are you using? What software are you using?

Hi is there a part one of this square bowl that shows how you drew in 2d then started the modeling in the 3d tab? I have done some 3d files but not done any 3d modeling. I have the same bowl drawn up to a square and have a grid on it but how do I set the depths of cut in the 3d area. Unless I am missing the obvious? Thanks

Liked that method, quick and easy. 👍

Nice work Howard! I really enjoyed watching and I learned a lot. Thank you!

I think I'd like to have a vacuum hose on a reel that would automatically turn on the impeller when I pull it out.

Howard, that was fantastic. A perfect example of simple beating complex. Love it!

Awesome

Very good always learn something

Just curious...is yours the turbo version or the regular Supercell?

Great video! Thanks for the in depth explanation. Can't wait for my machine to arrive so I can try this out.

Everything works fine until I get to the male inlay. I begin with the CLEAR bit and have tried both 1/8" and 1/4". I have broken them both almost immediately (I'm cutting Cherry). Should I begin with the V-carve. I notice that the CLEAR plunges straight in so they bits are breaking when they begin to move horizontally. I don't see any reference to feeds and speeds in the video. Any help in gaining the necessary understanding would be most appreciated. Thanks.

Very nice, I’m 45 year old trying to learn VCarve and I get discouraged sometime. You make it look so simple and easy! How did you learn and how long have you been using the program? Thank you.

Thanks, great information! But why do I need to see you in the corner of the screen,??

I new on the block thanks for easy way of doing text on text so many youtubers need to watch and learn the way you do it thxs

Thank you for explaining.

Thank You! Well done - thanx for being basic and simple about your explanations. (Subscribed to "ALL")

It didn't work for me so I won't subscribe

Nice work. What software are you using to get the picture in a picture for your feed?

Very nice, thanks, I was confused with another videos, this one is perfect.

WAY TO GO --- THANK YOU 1ST TIME I GOT IT

Really great video. One of the few Vectric CNC tutorials that is easy to follow and very well done. Appreciate the time you obviously spent doing it 🙂

Excellent video, enjoyable format and straight to the project. Subscribed.

I just found your channel and love your down-to-earth presentation, it is refreshing. It's nice that you got right to the project and showed each of your steps, it made the process easier to understand. Thank you.

wow, great technique, thanks for sharing going to save me some time!

Great video. Everyone loves Wordworking!

Using you technique for text on text, I figured out how to reduce machining time by creating a rectangle that includes all of the combined text then use that rectangle as the boundary for cutting the top text pocket because most of that area had been cleared for the combined text. Does that make sense?

Nice explanation, time saving simplicy. You must be a subscriber to the "KISS" principle, keep it simple stupid! THANKS