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No sorry but no I do not have a problem... I am a tool monger I love my tools...yeah I'll buy that one time use tool that I will probally never use again.... BUT HEY I HAVE THE TOOL IF I EVER NEED IT AGAIN!.. You know why cause I don't respect therapists....sure therapy has help out a lot of people deal with their tool problem but I am a mechanic since 5yrs old..sure therapy has helped out people calm down and it's a trait we find ok in the animals we eat... But I build repair and modify for a living if I wish to change some thing I will do so if I want to drive a pickle with wheels I can cause I have all the tools to do it with...... And I will....If I feel like it!

me and my friend put it on and off about 6 times because it kept doing the ghost touching and wasn’t recognizing my touch so after the whole day of doing that we just left it alone and put it back and over night i come back and the screen works perfectly good as new

99 ram van... got the clip off but now do I remove lock cylinder fro the inside or outside of door? It's not budging (van was painted). I dont want to force w/o some instruction. I lost the ignition key and was told this is the best solution to get one. Yes, there was one key for both door and ignition. Locksmith agreed. Thanks.

For me the red piece on the coil pack connector broke off :(

Dude - just extend the handle with an extension shaft... Also, welding releases full-spectrum UV radiation - including the highly carcinogenic UVC we don't really get from the sun (because the atmosphere attenuates it). If you don't want to develop melanoma, fully cover all exposed skin before welding. (Mechanical engineer, trained in welding safety.) Wearing a T-shirt is like saying you want to die early.

Amazing video; my screen doesn’t have a problem with ghost touches anymore 🙏 probably because i damaged the digitizer… am I suppose to see faint triangles on the screen? also it doesn’t respond to my touch 💔 2018 chrysler 300

It’s a good question. Grind away till you can’t grind anymore. A little tidbit if you’re new to tig too is to make sure the grinding marks are always parallel to the tungsten and not running in some kind of spiral or similar. Keeps the arc stable and over all a better time when you’re welding.

I had the same exact issue with my 2017 300C. Mine was a bit worse but I followed the directions from this video and it worked perfectly. Took a bit over 2 hours to do it all. I found some isopropyl wipes that worked great. The only thing I would clarify is to use the gorilla tape and cut it as wide as possible to fit within the black area. I tried some thinner strips and the screen did not work properly. I pulled it out, did it again and used maximized width strips of two sided black gorilla tape. For those watching this with a 300, pull out the panel below the stereo panel first. These were great directions and i'm thankful I found this.

Grind it until it won't fit anymore. Yeh. Sorry I thought this was a trick question the answer is regrind it.

Keep grinding away until its too short

At what level is the return line in the tank? If it not at the bottom of the tank or close. The fuel will get aeration and mess with fuel pressure.

I melt mine down to make ammo for my M1 Abrams. In this economy it's hard to find depleted uranium at an affordable price. Although not ideal I find the density of tungsten to an acceptable substitute for my 120mm cannon rounds.

Mine hasn't delaminated YET but when it does this vid is priceless! Thanks man!!!

I have a different issue. My screen went totally black. I tried all the hacks and nothing worked. The radio works, I can make calls while driving, etc. Went to the dealership today. After $175 to look at my RAM pickup, they said "a component was bad in the radio" and I needed the whole thing replaced. Moreover, it'd be $1,000 (payable all upfront today) and a 1 month wait before it'd be fixed. I see a lot of display replacement videos out there. The displays run about $350. Would a new display be an option or is there a possibility there's something with the actual "radio" system warranting a full system?

Very nice, well done. I have a smaller brake and use thinner stock. If anyone is curious, I restore old film cameras and battery powered accessories. Such as slide viewers etcetera. Alkaline battery leakage sometimes eats through and ruin’s battery contact strips. I pattern the new brass to match the old piece. Then use a “Micro-Mart” (Similar to H.F’s.model.) small bending brake to bend the brass sheet and drill the necessary holes.) It works very well. I do notice that the work-piece sometimes “Walks“ a few millimeters, unless the clamps are very tight. I find, switching from a vice grip type clamp to a 3 inch “C” clamp works better. I may try your modification on the Micro Mark version of the bending brake. Thanks Tom

I’m learning a lot. I’m doing this as we speak, but I can’t shake the fact that he looks like John Kramer 😂😂

Hi i have a 1971 c10 350 4 barrel Holly 650 I’m thinking to buy efi or a 5.3 I don’t know what do 🤷🏻‍♂️ Just asking your opinion Let me know thank you

Thanks. I'll never know how the cords get tangled up, when stored on a shelf? If I fell off a cliff, and threw and extension cord over some branches...it would be as straight as an arrow!

I use a old brake shoe in the same fashion,

I have also built a dash for the same body style dodge truck. 1980 four door 4x4 w200. I built the plug and then made the 11 part mold. The final product is a solid single piece of fiberglass. With 6 gauges, 6 speakers and 4 air ducts. Each one has their own raised and angled pod. Plus there’s room for a central double DIN radio. I still have the mold.

I have a question, does putting the transmission in D while pressing the brake to try to burn the tire to the ground, Does this break reverse band?

Really dig that m12 tester who makes that or did you make that yourself?

You make it look easy !!!

Just got mine at Home Depot $4.47. Great little tool. Good video, Thanks.

Ive had this issue on my 2017 charger scatpack for over a year now. I watched your walk-through back then and just dealt with it since it wasn't too bad back then. Fast forward to today, the phantom touches were absolutely unbearable. I had to keep the display turned off at all times. I built up the courage to tackle the issue on my own after watching this video a half a dozen times. All I had to buy was some trim removal tools. I ended up using my wife's hair dryer to heat the glue up and use some fishing line to remove the touch screen from the digitizer, and that was a very easy process...I was surprised. Cleaning the glue was, AN ABSOLUTE PAIN IN THE ASS. Extremely messy, very time consuming, went through a few pairs of gloves and whole lot of rubbing alcohol. I remained patient though, since I didn't want to ruin any thin cords. Ended up getting everything cleaned up, reassembled, and plugged back in...(even put everything on a baking sheet as you did in the video lol). After plugging everything in, my uconnect was blue, not red, but I wasn't alarmed since I expected this. After staying patient, I am now sitting in my car, everything is working 100% properly, and I'm about to push the dash trim all back in. I cant thank you enough for making a video on a very specific topic. Im so glad i wasn't the only one that experienced this problem and grateful I had the privilege to find solutions on CZcams. So again, thank you so much. I wouldve just taken this in to the dealership and would've spent a shit ton of money if I never came across your tutorial! 🙏

Great, especially in warmer areas. I am near Dallas, TX and got a 10 degree improvement winter and summer just with the reflective insulation. Now, I might add the panels. 10 degrees+ is a lot when you are sweating or cold.

There are three modes of heat transfer. Conductive, Convective and Radiant. Radiant transfer has to do with EM radiation. The heat that light transfers regardless of medium. The two modes that traditional insulation combat against is conductive (making it harder to push through a solid medium) and convective (the transfer between air (eliminating dead air spaces)). We misuse radiant heat often. We call heated floors radiant heat, when in fact it is conductive heat that turns into convective heat at the surface. Although radiant heat is responsible for the majority of the heating of the exterior of the garage door, it is not a factor in the transfer of heat between the exterior of the garage door and the interior of the garage. Reflective material is great at insulating radiant heat, but it isn't a factor in conductive/convective resistance. It is put in jackets, coated under hoods, put on insulation. I figure that it is a marketing gimmick, and that people are more likely to buy something if it is shiny. Here is a fun fact, when you walk out to your car in the morning and there is a layer of frost on it, it is always on the hood/roof/trunk. It is never on the sides of the car, only on surfaces facing up. That is because heat is radiated up to the absolute zero of space. Also, why you are more likely to see this frost after a clear night and not a cloudy one.

"It's great for getting around a bell housing". You say in the video that you found the extension the day before so how would you know if it was great to get around the bell housing? You'd never done that with that extension. And that's where I knew you're just running your mouth trying to get people to buy through your affiliate links.

i added a 3/8" thick flat bar to mine, also some longer handles to the side

This video was super helpful. I really really really really really really appreciate you explaining this so that I can fix this myself.

I'm wondering if there's a source for the manual selector arm for the 46RE that I had in a customer's truck. Ended up fixing the wallowed out arm, but that's a hard part to find.

😮 Does my 2015 Mazda have a fuel filter?

Would the regular gorilla double sided super glue tape work? It’s kinda thin. Definitely the thinnest of the selection.

I been looking to do this also.. nice job

What gages did you use for replacement? I need to upgrade/replace my 1993 W 150

I’m caught in VW GTI Land right now, and my jaw dropped at how easy your Charger is to work on. I’m stunned. I should have listened to Dad: MOPAR or no car

Great video 🤙

Bill, good that you are showing this; warts and all. The dean of the local community college is licking his lips in anticipation of your 2025 enrolment.

Anybody try plain old vegetable oil and plastic razor blades? How about wd-40?

2018 with 3300 mile and sits in the garage ALL DAY unless driven

Liquid wrench is ok I'm an adstro glyde man myself

any suggestions for a 2007 yaris , the passenger side floor keeps flooding with pollen and leaves etc. that gets into that under the windsheild vent , it cost me 400 to get it all out

Replace just the screen up top. Done.

Awesome vid! Thanks for the info💪🏾💯

10.5k subs, 314 views and only 3 likes....c'mon fam y'all can do better.

U connect will fix it you gotta call u connect and tell them your screen is delaminating and they will tell you to take it to your dealership it’s a lot of back and forth but will get done

I use this with a 20 ton Husky jack to build AK-47s

Thank you.

A question on a Kia dealership practice: I own 2023 Kia Niro hybrid and recently called my area dealership for an appointment to check its battery since it did not charge for a couple of hours during a highway, most cruise controlled driving that did never happen before. The dealer said: I have to leave my car up to 72 hours to the dealership for checking and, if needed, fixing it. Is this a normal practice in any Kia dealership for any warranty related work? For my entire driving life, I have never had to leave my cars to dealers more than some hours for any warranty work. Is this a dirty trick for Kia and/or its dealerships to deter or discourage customers not to use warranty fix for their cars and then save money from it? Did someone experience a similar case for any warranty work?

_"aluminum angle iron"_ Is aluminum/iron a new alloy?