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Thank you! Is it an auto cover or the covers with the anchors through the patio?

Yeah this is an old video when BOLD was Inlite North America

Thank you! You want the corrosion where the spikes then hold onto the fines of a dense graded base to be at the level of the edge restraint. That way when the spikes do try to heave they are heaving the entire edge restraint. That’s the idea behind plastic edge. If you use open graded and rely on that corrosion to be from the sub grade then you still have a lot of room for that spike to heave. Hope that makes sense

Glad it helped!

Good eye! Next video. We did a complete cleaning, pressure washing, and re-install polymeric sand on the patio

Yeah, but they need access to under the fire pit. One of the blocks is cut and comes out of the face so they can turn on and off the fire.

Haha thank you!

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Hey thanks for the suggestion! Is it built into the saw or an attachment?

yup +/- 3/8" over a 10' area

Awesome! Thanks! And thanks for such a quick reply! Take care.

You could use jointing sand. It is a little different than other sands in that the grains are more angular. You need at least 1 to 1.5" of depth to install new sand, but check with the manufacturer because it does differ. And it is best to do all of the project if it needs to be replaced or work in large areas rather than small patches here and there. This may help: czcams.com/video/PMu1l2ure4M/video.html

Sorry I don’t publicly share what my clients spend

in Tampa. so rain is a consideration, a few low spots but not bad, most water runs off, just a few small areas that retain.

I’d watch this video. It provides a few different options and applications. But being in Tampa you likely only have access to dense graded base. Best Base for Pavers | 4 Base Preparation Methods with Different Applications czcams.com/video/Zn8eODTY-QI/video.html

@@iamahardscaper thanks for the quick reply, and the link! Ill watch it now. More questions later :)

bring them on 👍

Yup 👍

Thanks so much!

Search for a landscape supplier near you. Where are you located? It is difficult to find it in the south and western states

or washed stone 🤔

I tamp them after sweeping in the polymeric sand with a protective pad or using a roller tamper

Nobody buys hardscape products from big box stores. Just search for a landscape supplier near you. They will stock pavers, aggregates, sealers, anything you need.

@@iamahardscaper Thanks. I called the supplier I bought my pavers from and he said he THINKS he has a 5 gallon bucket of sealer for $850. I assumed after that information that the professional hardscapers would never be buying it from them.

It has been a while since I bought sealer, but that seems expensive. Go to the Techni Seal or Alliance website and find a dealer near you.

@@iamahardscaper Now I'm wondering how many hardscapers go back to a job to seal it... I'm thinking they don't. Thanks for your help.

most hardscapers stay away from it and it is a different company entirely that will do it. Kind of like asphalt companies that don't recoat the driveway. It is difficult to invest a whole lot of money into equipment and then go out and do a bunch of sealing jobs that do not require that equipment and still make enough money to pay for that equipment. Not to mention you need perfect weather for sealing so you may be on a job and have to pull off of it just to go seal a project where you wont be making near the same amount of money.

It just depends on the height that you have available. Are you tearing out the concrete or laying directly on the concrete?

No, the base prep should be consistent. I can’t quite follow trying to raise the slope.

You still need to adhere your caps, so I would just remove the carpet personally. You should have a landscape supplier near you. Don't go to a big box store. These materials are natural stone caps and Techo-Bloc Blu 45 for the interior.

No it should be placed on a poured concrete pad

@@iamahardscaper Thanks for the quick response! I appreciate it.

Whenever I do a project that butts up to another base, I usually just match the base material. More than likely the base for your driveway is dense graded, so I would just match it with more dense graded material and not open.

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You could use either, just make sure to incorporate it throughout the entire project and not up the back of the wall portion of your raised patio. Regardless, I would also use geogrid in your patio base

Thanks!

😂😂 I’ve stopped my pursuit of taking on drainage jobs. Turns out I hate them.

Less than 1/8" per 1" of HPB. For sand a little more than 1/8" per 1"

@@iamahardscaper So if you have 12” HPB, 11” 20mm clear and 1” 10mm clear compacted. It will still compact 1/4 of the inch. Hard to believe but you have more experience than I do.

Sorry, not following that lineup of aggregate. 12", then 11", then 1"? Also, you don't compact your bedding layer, you want that to be loose. You then compact the pavers into the bedding layer with the jointing compound. That's where you get 1/8" when using HPB as your screed layer. Not 1/4.

@@iamahardscaper 12” was total hight of bedding layer, 11” of 20mm and 1” of 10mm as a screed layer It makes sense to me to compact first 11” of bedding layer than put 1” screed layer pavers and than compacted with jointing compound. But idk you are professional. I take your word for it.

Gotchya. So where you say bedding layer, that is actually the base. Bedding layer is interchangeable to screed layer. HPB is the screed layer. So for your 1” of HPB screed layer, I would set your pavers a little less than 1/8” higher than the final grade. It is not much, but that is approximately how much it will go down.

Thank you!

I would never go more than 1/4". But here is the video with all your questions answered: czcams.com/video/LiUvAfS94Lk/video.html

Welcome!

Yup! Maybe it wasn't captured in this video (it is an older video) but we definitely always do that before activating with water.

that is up to you. If you install polymeric sand, here is an instructional video: czcams.com/video/vUwQ_9e0SMo/video.html

the raised patio? There are several ways to do it. Crown it, add a drain in the middle and slope it all towards the drain, level it and install a semi-permeable jointing compound. It depends on how large it is. This one in the video I crowned it and still installed a semi-permeable jointing compound.

Big box stores just don’t cater to hardscapers.

Hey thanks a lot!

any areas you want, you need to scrape out the joints / pressure wash to get to 1 - 1.5 inches in depth and follow the instructions of installing polymeric sand. larger areas work better rather than small areas throughout.

Glad it helps!

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Yup, tried it. Most popular comment on this video 😂

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Yup that’s fine

thank you! we're doing a flagstone walkway. Newbies. Wish us luck!

Hey thanks so much! It’s got much better

Thank you!

1) I wouldn’t. It is only meant to be a screed layer. But I know guys that do for pedestrian traffic projects. 2) I wouldn’t do it. 3) I would definitely use a paver roller for slabs that size. Other compactors will definitely crack those slabs. Paver Roller Compactor Review czcams.com/video/CK1VFL--z9k/video.html

Thanks so much I appreciate the quick reply! Any idea where I might rent a ‘paver roller compactor’ in Toronto? In exploring online I’m only finding the plate compactors

Ohh that’s a great question. I would call local rental companies or reach out directly to MQuip. They might rent. You can also contact Weber and Bartell Global and see if they have rental shops nearby for their rollers

Glad it helps!

Either one works. Probably the 1/4

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Absolutely, here is a video we made on when to use either: BEST Base Material for a Retaining Wall | Dense or Open Graded Base czcams.com/video/BFb8lZ_mGYs/video.html