Video

Hi premium ropes, i am thinking of replacing the stainless steel standing rigging on my boat with dynema. Will it be o.k. to use double braided rope with dynema core for this job? My thinking is that the outer braid will offer a bit of protection to the dyneema core. I was going to use 6mm dyneema, so what would be the diameter of rope that includes the outer braid. Many thanks, Oz.

Hola, Podrías hacer una con la bandera de argentina por favor, gracias

What’s the “needle” tool you are using called?

That’s some fine work my friend, WAY beyond my rope work and knotting ability.

Damn nice work. I’m thinking that this method might work with paracord?

Warum demonstriert man diesen knoten nicht einfach wie er beim spleißen von schäkeln benötigt wird? Sondern so absolut kompliziert

This video remains the clearest and simplest to follow on continuous furling line splicing. many thanks

Da ebtvoiumat. What if other end is 400 feet long

STEP ONE PUT A HEAVY WEIGH OVER THE LINE SO IT DOES NO RUN UP THE MASK LIKE IT ALMOST DID.

Magic.

I didn't initially see this video but after several times having successfully completed your instructional video 7.3.2 I instinctively removed the cover from the cover. I can't for the life of me get the last inch in. It has bunched up and despite using a hammer it is rock hard. I have tried using a winch but this hasn't worked. Is there any solution to this or do I need to start over? Is there anything that can prevent the bunching? Thank you.

Not sure the dyneema will not fray if a larks head hitch is used on that block's becket. Might be better off with a shackle theough the becket and use a lark's head hitch on the rounded shackle shaft.

That method is good. I was always taught to use 3 1/2 fid lengths for the bury and a MUCH longer taper. I do agree that Selma fids are the best but I invert the loop before passing the other loop through. I invert it, use a regular fid to widen the hole then take a piece of bailing wire about 6 “ long, fold it in half then place one leg through my loop and the ends into the top off the fid and push it through. It’s been the most elegant method I’ve found and teach it at all of my workshops.

How do you distinguish France from The Netherlands?

I want to make my own closing loops for my skydive container. What's the best 550 cord? I also can't find the right FID to make the finger trap. The one I bought is slightly too big. Thanks!

💯👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏 Parabéns um lindo trabalho ⛵👍

Good idea for the weekend, Good new ropes

Do the Canadian flag!

I have a halyard line, good for rope clutches - simply neasrly impossible to pass the core back - and then once you've done that, there is absolutely NO WAY the cover within the core is goping to slit past it to complete the splice. NO WAY. Three attempts. Even used a hammer on the fid to get it through. Is there another video ? You know, the real life video on tighter weave rope..

Can you do this with a 20mm rope to a 14mm rope?

Does this need a lock stitch?

This video has been an enormous help for me with my splicing Thanks 👍

Benang apa

Hi, would this be considered a class two double braid splice?

Hello. Great tutorial thanks for it 🙏🏻 Is there any difference between 32 plaited cover or 24 plaited cover and 12 plaited core or 16 plaited core?

Thanx!

What thickness?

Great video! But, it would be SO MUCH easier to see exactly what was happening if the background was dark blue or black. White or light blue on a white background is not optimal…

so two problems i notice in real world situations, #1 taking the core out of the cover is never ever ever that simple or fast, it always usually ends up a mangled mess and takes about 30 minutes to an hour to actually pull out. # two, pulling the joint into the cover is never ever ever that easy or fast, or sometimes even possible; it's 3 layers too thick to get through the original hole you pulled the core out of, it usually requires about an hour of pounding and/or getting two people to pull it or getting it on a winch to pull. Nice video, but doesn't address real world issues. Obviously you did it here, but for whatever reason it doesn't work in the real world.

Which yarn is used?

I'm not sure everyone is going to be able to easily pull that much slack of the core through. I guess it's fine for short ropes.

Would be nice to have some troubleshooting. I can't pull the end through the hole in the first step. I have the same tools as you do, it just won't go through. 4mm rope from your shop too. Showing a pro do it like it is so easy is misleading.

The best knot tying chaps on YT.

Can this be used to attach a friction ring into the loop?

Wonderfullly !!! ...

It may cause problems in carrying loads.

Does this work for marlow’s D2 product?

Definitely should taper more. Splice would be smoother

Does it work to link ropes of different diameter?

How strong would this be relative to the cord / rope you spliced together assumning you did a good job?

Where is the core spliced? How is the continuous line strong without the core connected? The cover has no strength?

para. aprender este nudo y otros más gracias seguiré viendolos

It was painful watching him bumble his way through the first round of tucks. That 3rd tuck was a cracker.. 🤣

🎩👍🏼

Hello. Wich feeder kit are you using?

What size are your fids?

My halyard is very tight. I just can't introduce the F-20 needle into it to pull the extra cover. What should I do? Thanks!

Mein Tipp! Ich habe einen YAK T100 (100 Pfund )Wurfarm auf der Alligator 2 verbaut. Die Sehne ist Dyneema Pro in schwarz ( die farbigen halten angeblich nicht so gut ) Die Sehne ist an der Schiene innenverstärkt. Als Mittenwicklung habe ich einiges ausprobiert, aber nur ein Material hat mich absolut überzeugt! Ich nehme von der Firma Micro Tex eine Dyneema Angelschnur in 0,4mm Stärke und wickle damit die Mitte, aber nur über die Breite der Schiene, plus etwa 3mm rechts und links hinaus! Wichtig ist, zu Anfang die Schnur dreimal mit einer Nadel durch das Geflecht von einer Seite zur anderen durchführen, damit sie sich sicher nicht lösen kann! Danach vorsichtig zuerst ein paar Wicklungen ohne Wickelgerät ausführen, dann mit dem Wickelgerät, das anhängt, bis etwa 2/3 straff wickeln. Beim letzten dritte eine Schlaufe aus dieser Schnur nach außen legen und vorsichtig den Rest wieder von Hand straff über die Schlaufe wickeln. Am Schluss ein gutes Stück stehenlassen, abschneiden und durch die Schlaufe, unter dem letzten 1/3 langsam zurück durchziehen! Dabei empfehle ich eine Zange . Bis jetzt habe ich noch keinerlei Abrieb feststellen können! Meine Sehne liegt wirklich extrem straff auf der Schiene und ich habe schon sehr viel geschossen 👍🏻

So far, I've only done this a few times, so I won't call myself an expert, but one hint that's helped me... Before you pull the core from the double braid, tie a loop knot into the double braid, six or eight feet from the end. I use an alpine butterfly knot. This will anchor the core to the cover, limiting how far down the compressed section of the cover will extend. When you're milking the cover back over the splice, the knot is how far down you need to stop. And you can slip the knot over something solid, I've used benchdogs on my workbench and I've used door knobs, that you can use to anchor the rope while you try to milk the cover. Grabbing the unlaced strand of the cover, releasing the core entirely, and leaning into the pull with the rope anchored at that knot can get the cover through those tight spots where simply pushing on the cover doesn't work.

At 7:10, the fid goes in to the core on the OPPOSITE side from where the core emerges from the cover. At, say 10:28, you can see that this ensures the eye of the splice will lie nice and flat - no twists. First time I tried this I didn't realise it mattered where the fid went in and wound up with a big twist, making it impossible to get that last centimetre of core into the cover - very frustrating!