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Hi there. That's a good question. I would imagine that if the wood is drier, that it would be advantageous. That said, I don't really know. Maybe I would split the difference and let it dry out a bit more, but not so long that you never wind up doing the pergola. Are you going to document the burn and build? Would love to see what the end result looks like.

I'll take that as a huge compliment. He's a good looking dude...and 7 years younger than I am :)

1. Yes...it all burns (or evaporates) including urine. 2. Squeeze bottle bidet may add too much moisture to the system (w/urine). I would be a bit nervous about doing that. Will impact the overall efficiency of the system. I'm not sure how much moisture you would be introducing via the bottle.

@@TinyIndustrial About half a cup or 120ml if you're metric.

Thanks so much for your comment. I appreciate the kind words. Yes, sometimes when you are doing stuff, you don't really want to be filming and explaining stuff at the same time. You are very right about that.

As in pressure treated lumber? no... don't do it. That would is already preserved with icky and unnatural chemicals (which you don't want to heat up).

This method is an alternative to pressure treated wood. It may not last as long as pressure treated but 1) it looks better 2) it's better for the environment. Really comes down to implementation, where you are and what the exposure is to the elements.

For a composting toilet? There are people who do it both ways. Some just clean the bucket and some use a liner (bag) and then discard of the bag at a later point.

No air supply need. Unless you are in an airtight room, the unit will get sufficient airflow for what it's doing.

Trailer, trailer, trailer. Hey, it's built on a trailer. Worth mentioning more than once.

How did it work out for the couple in the box truck. Did they like it? What are your thoughts on it?

@@TinyIndustrial It worked great. I save a lot of videos like this, so I would have to see if I can find it. As that was my first video on that I was so surprised. I think it used propane. AND they had some sort of micro mini washing machine for clothes. I never saw anything like it. It was wall mounted I believe.

Thanks! I appreciate the comment.

I don't believe so. Have you had good experience with it or are you looking for a review of how it works?

Not at all. It draws all the warm/combustion air out via the vent to the outside.

Thanks! Yes, these are fun to build. Are you thinking of building one?

@TinyIndustrial thinking of building one they look great

Thank you! It actually is pretty easy... :)

Yes, that's a popular one for sure. Definitely the winner in the 'ease of use' category. Lots of people complain about the cost of the cartridges though.

@@TinyIndustrial Right you are. The Lavio is expensive to use.

Not cooked...incinerated. Ashes to ashes...dust to dust.

Doesn't really give off any heat. You would never really know it's an incinerating toilet unless someone told you. You would simply think that it's a different kind of toilet if you were seeing one for the first time.

That sounds like a very scientific explanation why you wouldn't want to have a urine diverter. Thanks for the comment.

That's good advice. I assume that you use one of these? ...or did you simply research this topic a great deal?

Hi. I think that I had reached out to you directly via email, right? Did you get the issue remedied?

Yeah, it's not for everybody. Thanks for checking out the video. What are you going to go with?

That's a great question. I'm not entirely sure why I did it that way. You can certainly do it the way you propose and have it be find. I think that the main purpose is that with the 2x3 at the bottom of the wall, you have 1) a wider area to attach the exterior/outer wall to. and 2) perhaps more importantly, when you go to attach the interior wall, you have a better contiguous span to attach the bottom of the interior wall to as well. Without it you would just be bridging the empty space between the upright 2x3's. Make sense? Really good question though...but those are the main reasons for it. You can see what I'm talking about at 03:22:20. Imaging if that 2x3 wasn't at the bottom of that interior wall...much harder to attach interior wall material that way if it wasn't there.

Not sure I follow your question. The vent pipe is there to let air in and out of the tank when either filling or draining the tank. It's so that the tank can breathe. Without that vent there would be a vacuum in the tank and it would contract or expand. The concept is similar in a car fuel tank. As you fill your cars gas tank the air that gets displaced needs to exit the tank. If there were no vent on your fuel tank, you wouldn't be able to fill it up either. Make sense?

@@TinyIndustrial Thanks, but I understand what the vent tube is; you didn't get the question. However, I already have a solution. At 23:00, you mentioned connecting the drainage tube to the vent tube. So, I asked how the air will get in while water is flowing out through the same tube. But now I see that you can open the valve on the inlet tube, which will allow it to function as a vent tube. However, I think a better solution would be to connect the drain tube to the inlet tube. I will place a valve outside of the inlet tube as well. When I open it, I will have access to water from the tank, not just for drainage, but for everyday use-only in summer, of course.

Thank you. Glad it was helpful for you!

No, I would not. When you burn after assembly, you are not going to be able to burn the parts of the wood where the pieces of the chair connect to one another. That will become the weakest link and where the wood starts to deteriorate first. I would alway recommend doing the burning before assembly so that you can make sure that ALL surfaces are treated/burned. Makes sense?

Wow! That's so kind. I really appreciate you and your comment. Are you building one of these?

Hi! Glad to hear that you are giving this a go. Let me know how it turns out. Be safe!

No! Definitely not. Pressure treated has a ton of chemicals in it and does not work with this preservation process. Think of pressure treated as the 'non-organic' way of preserving wood. Hope that clears it up for you.

That's so great! Good for you. Thanks for getting the book as well. Please let others know that you found it to be helpful. Much appreciated.

Ahh. Thanks! She brightens my day all the time. :)

Yup, completely agree. Thanks for the comment.

Yeah, poly is not my first choice. Oil and occasionally reapplying the oil I find to be the best method. Kind of the way you would treat teak backyard furniture to maintain it's looks and longevity.

Ahh. yes. Good idea. I'll keep that in mind for future videos. Check out some of my other videos on the channel regarding this process. You may find one that resonates better with your wife. :)

The application of the oil and subsequent wiping down of the material clears 98% of any reside. When left in the elements for a while, it eliminates any remnants of dust that could come off on clothes. White linen pants maybe aren't recommended though...

@TinyIndustrial thanks! Also, thoughts on Refined Linseed versus Boiled versus...? Which linseed is best? Some are more expensive than others...

Yup, I know. It's really not that large a piece of pressure treated. Couple years later, I think that all the bad stuff is mostly out by now.

Thanks! Glad that it helped you. Always good to know what all your options are.

Thank you! Glad it was helpful.

They have both models. The 240 is faster since it can burn hotter (and faster). The 110 is what I have and I'm fine with it.

Did you? I think you should.

Hmm. likely not. I would use tar and termite protection in place of poly.

@@TinyIndustrial what do you use to waterproof them?

@@TaLeng2023 the burning is the part that protects/seals the wood. The application of oil just enhances that. There is no further waterproofing needed.

This build was done on a 5'x8' utility trailer I believe (or close to it).

Yes, yes and yes. Not sure about the Cinderella travel model. Can you provide a link to that? I'm not familiar with it. Also not sure if any of these toilets would work well in a truck. I have not seen that implementation. Air pressure from driving in conjunction with the vent process from this kind of toilet would likely cause some undesirable results.

Yes, it uses a fair amount of electricity. Having a usable toilet in a hard or impossible place to plumb is likely worth the trade off though in many cases.

I don't know. I think that you might wind up roughing up the grain of the wood. May not lead to a desirable result. Have you tried it? Would love to hear how/if it works.

Fire.

I think that at some point I worked it out to about $0.25-$0.50 a flush (depending on where you live) plus a few more cents for the liner. It's not cheap, but also not crazy costly.

@@TinyIndustrial Thats not bad at all for how well it works and not dealing with compost !

Very cool. I always thought that bees would be put off by the burn part, but glad to hear that they don't mind the scent.

Not sure why you would want to use vegetable oil on this. Not sure that's a good idea. Go out and buy some linseed oil. I wouldn't experiment with Mazola on one of these projects.

Totally agree. The only thing to mention is that I only used it intermittently for 5 years and not in a 'full time' scenario. Either way, the unit is fairly maintenance free. Even septic systems need maintenance too...I agree that for me as well, this is the best solution.