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With your boring bar - I think the chatter issue is due to boring bar deflection lowering your tool height below centre which messes up the insert cutting angle. Because boring bars protrude a lot by necessity and are not well supported by the tool post as a result, they tend to deflect downwards slightly under cutting pressure. Normally if you raise your tool height a fraction above centre height, once you start cutting, and it deflects downwards slightly, it brings your insert back to centre height so that the rake angle on the insert is correct & it can cut (plastic deformation) as designed at the correct speeds & feeds. Just a suggestion to try next time. Sorry if you already know this. 👍

You made a right dogs dinner of that one!! Wonky handle and too small surely!!

I can't imagine why anyone thought it was a good idea to cut off the mounts for the centre stand but at least the frame is in the right hands now. We need to make a part to hold a spring for a starter/generator on one of our projects and I was pleased to see you made your pin in the same way we were thinking of making ours. This is a very interesting project and I am looking forward to following along

You have all the most "interesting" jobs😉 One has to wonder at the childish behaviour of the owner to butcher a frame for a miniscule bit of extra ground clearance.

Very good. I have a channel too and I am restoring a Harrison mil. I had to make a housing from continous cast for a new knee lead nut that I made. I wish I could have cored it like this, would have saved time and material. Didn't have suitable cutters. I have subbed to you. I am Carl by the way.

What is the minimum diameter?

This was an interesting project and it was good to see how you tackled this

I found this a very interesting and entertaining video; those annular cutters saved a lot of time!

Very helpful. Where did you get your belt from?

The cutters seem to be working very well. This is an interesting project to follow, thanks

Hi . I'm thinking on buying a Colchester triumph lathe. How do you find them? Would you recommend one to someone one? Are they capable of doing some bigger jobs? Id like to be fit to make digger pins and bushes..

Distortion is a bitch. Filler rod and beveling is important. After all, the end result looks great!

That was interesting - thanks. I saw the other comments but it's also the difficulty of doing one offs where you only get one shot at it. Cheers

Live and learn from your mistakes. A little too much heat and likely changing up your welding order would be helpful as well. Not adding any filler over a non beveled butt weld is a weak weld as you've discovered. You could butt the joints up, run a grinding wheel over the joint to include a slight bevel to allow more penetration and weld with filler metal. If the welds are ugly, you can grind them smooth and there will be adequate penetration because of the slight bevel prep from the grinder. Keep on Keeping on!

way way way too much heat, tac it way way way way way more if you don't know how to weld

Did u clean the metal? Prior ?

Those longitudinal cracks are bizarre. I don't think I've ever seen anything like that in mild steel. I know you said they were autogenous welds, but does it still happen with er70-s6 filler rod? My instinct would be try try silicon bronze tig brazing. It would be plenty strong for a chair and it has really good elongation. Might also be very pretty. For the distortion I'd try tacking to the table.

0.005" eccentricity is the outer limit for brake drums. Grit blast the thing and fit modern SAFTEK linings....

And I have a no4 with no arm

Shouldn't you align that to the bearing surfaces?

Makes me glad i stopped machining when i see jobs like this.

Sounds like the Central Line on the underground!

The non-flux end of a 3mm welding electrode works just fine!

It was very interesting to see how you repaired this

Do you get a lifetime suppliy of 99's now?😂

Variety is the spice of life and you get plenty of variety.

The wheels are very cool and they look fantastic polished. The rear wheels are huge

It must have been like polishing the inside of a barrel!

One minute, one inch.😮😊

Had the same problem with my lands land rover engine. Had to go through with a 4mm end mill first

end mill

Guest commentary by www.youtube.com/@TolleckWinner1

Glad to see you are keeping busy!

Video is very dark. You need to improve your lighting for the next one.

This was very interesting to watch and very well timed as we need to drill out a broken bolt in a inlet manifold

Enjoyed that thanks.

Been there, done that and glad I'm retired, again!!😂

Wow, you have to be very accurate with that spotting drill.

How does the Denbigh compare with other English fly press manufacturers? Quality wize?

I would of had that in a heartbeat

I like horizontal milling and I must find an excuse soon. And your vice is on the table lengthways, which feels natural to me. Crossways always feels wrong to me ... but that's just my preference. Cheers

Very nice !! 🤗

effin needed a broach the other day... always mean to invest in some... but whatever i buy? wont be the right width, lol. but its the sort of thing you keep in a box, never use, and the moment you want it... GONE!!!! or find it straight away, and its the wrong one. ive discovered that doing it single point, on the lathe, with a boring bar... PULLING is better. the 32mm bore was easy. the 15mm bore was a nightmare...

Oddly fascinating video with interesting commentary along the way. Wound up watching the full 16 min and 40 sec. I admire your persistence and "as good as I can get it is probably good enough" attitude. Congratulations on succeeding!

This was interesting to watch, thanks

Its been 25 years since i last handled one of those rotors but often they were keyed for ignition timing marks, once the British bike industry learned they were such things as strobe timing lights.😂 Before that it didn't matter much crank rotationally wise but I don't recall a threaded hole anywhere on one.

Not sure that thread will be any good....

Hlo sir what is the price of this

If the steel gets too hot you mess with the heat treatment. The good ones like from glardon vallorbe for example are one piece hardened the whole length. You can drill several steps in the handle where the taper will catch. No need for a reamer.

I'm guessing this is cheaper than just buying a new one?