Video

Haha, I can agree. At least we don't have to remove almost the entire dashboard and break 30 tiny clips on the Bronco sport to swap the climate control module... Oh wait. Anyways, glad I could help!

@@greezysgarage 🙃

It may be due to a corroding or worn out bearing. I would suggest first visually inspecting it, and determining if there is any resistance while spinning. Thanks!

I hope that means my video helped! Thanks!

Thanks for the encouragement!

No problem!

Iny case they were, but I would cross reference diagrams to confirm that you have the required wiring. Thanks!

​@greezysgarage thanks man

I think the steps should be about the same, thanks!

Fully themed :)

Glad I can be of help!

Good suggestion, would that affect just this one lock though?

@@greezysgarage I was working on my F01 yesterday. Driver door and fuel door does not unlock with remote. I thought it was 2 issues. Took everything apart and replaced the fuel door actuator. THAT DID NOT FIX. Is the replacement actuator bad or something else? I sat down googling and looked up newtis site. There is a fuse for them. Changed the 15A fuse and 2 problems were fixed. Hence I commented "Check fuse first."

I didn't know that, although it does make sense that the fuel door were to unlock with the driver's. In my case the passenger's rear would not correlate with that, but thank you for your input. this is very helpful!​@@derekkchung

Good luck! Patience is key :)

Have you replaced it? How did it go?

I'm not certain, but I'm guessing they would honor that since it's from an official source. Thanks!

You first go to "footwell module", then "coding" then "factory code"

@@greezysgarage thank you! Much appreciated

Of course!

I custom made this splitter, using am extra 4 pin connector I bought on eBay. I also detailed how to build it yourself if you're interested.

I'm not sure, but I don't think it's a common issue, and if I had to guess FRM III would probably have the least likely hood of having issues.

I bought this at AutoZone. here is the link, but any standard kit should work; thanks! www.autozone.com/a-c-charging-and-refrigerant/r134a-refrigerant/p/a-c-pro-r134a-synthetic-refrigerant-stop-leak-charging-hose-digital-gauge-20-oz/1122812_0_0?vehicleId=3977201

Glad I could help!

This version of IDrive is equipped with Bluetooth audio for calls, while later models could be optioned to include Bluetooth media as well.

You can almost count on it being destroyed, based upon my own experience

Yes I’ve done this on a 428i gransport 2.0T plastic fitting can’t withstand the heat long term. Upgrade to aluminum and replace coolant on time and it should last forever. Oring will only need replacement in the future (10 years)

Preventative maintenance is key, and people don't realize that it really is cheaper in the long run. I knew it would happen, saved myself waiting for a new part, and now have the peace of mind. Win win!

Thanks! Every one counts :)

Yes. I should have shown this, but I had the battery disconnected. The harness allows both the original lighting, as well as that on the shift knob to light up; it is just splitting the connections. There is in indicator light next to each position represented by R,N,P,D,. If you'd like to see the complete video (for the E82 1 series, (it's 90% the same) it's on my main channel page. Thanks!

@@greezysgarage ah i see, great mod tho mate.

Thanks!

Thanks!

Is there a specific reason why not? Thanks for the input.

@@greezysgarage too much car for a teenager and they have way too much to learn

Personally I don't see why a younger person shouldn't be able to learn using the best :) I consider myself fortunate to have learned how to wrench on a BMW, (or german car in general) because it makes other cars seem easier to work on, rather than a BMW being more difficult. I've also done 100% of the maintenance myself, with help from the fine people on bimmerpost.net teenagers can be very responsible if taught correctly, and should be able to enjoy such things if they are well deserved, is my conclusion.

@@greezysgarage I absolutely agree unfortunately, there are very many like-minded people with that type of common sense and self control. Good job.

Thanks! I'm glad I'm able to do this.​@@jameswagner2634

I used the PROTOOL app, and just used the "factory coding" option. If you're using BMW tools, available from BimmerGeeks.net for free, I believe it is Tool32 to find your vehicle order, (V/O) which you can then copy down, install the new part, and paste in the new data. You just want to make sure you're replacement is the correct version. FRM I, II, or III. I believe you can use FRMIII in any model/year, but not vice-versa. I'm not 100% sure though.

Thanks! What type of content do you like seeing? I'm always looking for feedback :)

@@greezysgarage retrofitting and coding

Well I like both, so I'll see what I can do :)

No problem. Would you mind sharing your year/the year of your new seats? I would reference this thread first. Based on the same theory of lci vs Pre-Lci, you may have to swap some pin placements, and/or tap/add a wire for the bolsters. www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1637489

So I actually have an M footrest that can be sourced from an Msport package 1 series (the 3 series is actually probably the same) but the way that it is connected to the car is through the carpet, using a metal washer thing that seemingly is never supposed to be taken off. Thus why I haven't installed mine. So in order to do this OEM style, you'd need to remove the whole of the driver's side front carpet (which I've done before, but with the rest of the interior removed), and then get new fasteners. I can send you pictures if you'd like. so your best bet would to get a foot rest (aka dead pedal) that adheres to the existing one. I'm not completely sure, but I think they make them.

AutoBig Steel Foot Gas... www.amazon.com/dp/B01MG53TVI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share These are the exact ones I bought. They aren't OEM, but the quality seems on par.

This could be the issue then. Does the gong sound while the light is on/when you start driving? Which icons are on your instrument cluster intermittently? In not 100% sure if this would work, but you could also try switching the driver's/passenger's tensioners and testing that in a parking lot or something, I'm not sure if you can actually install them on opposite sides. It's tricky when it comes on randomly though.

@@greezysgarage So I get the indicator in the dashboard that the seatbelt is not buckled up. The bigger seat icon is actually the indicator for the airbag which every do often comes up while I'm driving the car; after which it disappears. But the seat belt icon (indicator) is still on. At times whenever I buckle up the seatbelt icon goes away, but most of the time is staying on all the time.

I'd guess that this is your problem then, you could try my suggestions in my past comment. For my questions, I usually ask them on bimmerpost.com, great community :)

@@greezysgarage Thanks

Thanks for your comment. To clarify, as shown, the emblem is held with a bearing and weight on the backside, so that it moves freely from the clips which hold it in place. This allows the emblem to stay upright while the wheel is rotating.

@@greezysgarage YOU CANT BACK-PEDDLE YOUR WAY OUT OF THIS LIE JUST ADMIT IT YOU OHOTOSHOPPED IT

You’re joking right?

@@zincyellowmach1523I certainly hope so, if not, god help us all

I'm glad I could be of help! After all, that's my goal with this channel. To make the video as streamlined and easy to follow as possible, it's true that off camera it takes a lot more time than it seems :)

Thanks?

Thanks 😂

😂😂

BMW 36122455269 Floating Center... www.amazon.com/dp/B07T3GTYF6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Here you go!

🤦🏻‍♂️

All cars have a bit of BMW in them.

It's an E88 135i on M240i wheels

In what way?

@@user-dv7fr5kj3x I know it's a bmw I meant what kind

Thanks!

I would maybe check and compare wiring diagrams for the seat connectors between lci/pre-lci. It might have rearranged pins. It's also possible that the climate control module needs to be coded as pre-lci, since the pre-lci have the buttons on a seperate panel underneath the control module, although I've used both and that hasn't been a problem. You might also have to try coding the seat module if that is an option.

You may also be able to activate the seat heating from a coding app such as PROTOOL, which could eliminate any issue with the button connection. I'm not sure about this though

I know, it's just 3 easy steps to completely transform your BMW into a supercar! You don't even need a clutch pedal, it's all done automatically :)

Thanks!

@@greezysgarage no problem. Ur video helped me be able to change out my tensioner. I tried without removing the seat and that was not gonna work so ur video showed me how easy removing the seat is. So much appreciated keep the videos coming ull get more subs and views just keep upload content

Where you guys find the torque specs? I would like to take a look at how much different parts need to be tightened

@@andyandrei8698 depends on the year of the vehicle ur trying to reference. anything before 2013 i think is easy to find online from a repair manual. everything after that is more difficult bc bmw stopped allowing people to freely access repair manual. so u gotta find a place to buy a repair manual or pay ridiculous price to access bmw tis software.

Sorry for the late response, due to this being a reply and not a new comment, I don't get a notification. It seems as if Exx chasis cars (6X8X,9X etc) are 35 ft lbs, while Fxx chassis cars (F3x etc) are 42 ft lbs, you can reference here. These should apply to most cars of these generations, but you'll want to check specifically. I find bimmerpost.net to be very helpful in all areas :) www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98231 f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1830010

Since the connections go right into the main seat connector, you'd have to look up a wiring diagram for the main connector, and then trace them to their destinations (unfortunately I'm not sure where they go, but you should be able to look it up) I'd reference forums on bimmerpost.com for info, good luck!

Oops? 👀

Yes, that is an easier option. I guess I forgot 😅. Thanks!

Of course!

Thanks for the tip! Although I think the crush washer does a good job, and I haven't had any issues with oil leakage from this point.

No it's an "upgrade" don't you see the little emblem. It's better😂

@@vincentfavazza3016 how much horsepower does that add?

I calculated an increase of 18HP at the crank

It's personal preference I suppose. The Msport wheel has thicker padding which I find to be a noticable improvement :) and personally I think it also looks significantly better.

Exactly, thanks for clarifying! I can tell people I have an M3 now ;)

Thanks!

Glad I can help!