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You're right. That's what more experienced person would have done. I was just looking for the cheapest and easiest way to get the stud out. It worked. I only needed to buy one head bolt to fix the lawn vac, but maybe next time, I'll try taking a head off. The town dump is loaded with discarded lawn and garden equipment. I'm in a blue state. Nobody wants repaired. Everyone wants new. Thanks for commenting. I will follow your advice next time...

Might also be a dead battery. These two videos should help you to determine which it is: czcams.com/video/OsAhYTDgEr8/video.html - XP2260 Not Charging PART 2 czcams.com/video/g5ibI23UWCA/video.html - DieHard 950 Good luck! Thanks for asking.

Dead battery is a common problem. It is replaceable. These 2 videos should help: czcams.com/video/OsAhYTDgEr8/video.html - XP2260 Not Charging PART 2 czcams.com/video/g5ibI23UWCA/video.html - DieHard 950 Battery is easily replaced on these units. You can do it! Thanks for asking.

Unlike USB ports on computers, the USB ports on portable power packs have no data lines. They supply +5V DC power only. They're used to recharge cell phones and tablets, Kindle devices, battery operated GPS devices, tactical flashlights - all sorts of equipment. My Depstech endoscope has a rechargeable +5V battery. The mini-keyboards supplied with our Android TV boxes have rechargeable +5V DC batteries. Pretty much anything made to be operated and recharged using a cell phone charger can alernately be operated and recharged on a USB-equipped power pack. Hope this helps. Thanks for asking!

You may also have the bright spots problem shown here: czcams.com/video/Tv5s0KttNX0/video.html and here: czcams.com/video/xaaGEDHwwAg/video.html in videos titled LCD/LED TV Repair Secrets - Bright Spots on the Screen PARTS 1 and 2. Replacement LED strips will correct both problems. Just be sure to order HQ aftermarket strips, not new OEM strips, and definitely not remanufactured OEM strips. If HQ aftermarket strips are not available for your TV, then you can also try fixing/remanufacturing your existing, OEM LED strips. This video: czcams.com/video/mW0OAYIRdqc/video.html titled LG 42LN5700 - 47 LN5400 LED TV Screen Repair Secrets shows how. For confidence, read through the comments on these videos. Most people who attempt the se repairs are successful. Even if you fail, and we all fail sometimes, the TV is already broken, so you have nothing to lose. With patience and typical DIY disposition, the odds of success are with you. Good luck! Thanks for asking.

@@LawrencePina so I deconstructed my tv and to look at the backlight. And those round clear lenses were all attached and i realized that 4lights were dead. And all lights was bluish purple. Not white. But what i am not sure is that replacing all back lights would fix the blurry dots problem. This is not cause by the dettatched little lenses. They were all on each led.

Ok, good job! That tells me you also have this problem: czcams.com/video/8g3uQaNK0Jo/video.html "LCD/LED TV Repair Secrets - Dark Blue Picture." Replacing the LED strips (with HQ aftermarket strips, not remanufactured OEM strips) will make the TV like new again. Order using the part numbers printed on your existing strips, not by TV model number. Otherwise, you might not receive the right parts. Easy job at this point. Good luck! Thanks for asking.

I agree, it's time for a new TV, but I hope you'll consider keeping this one and trying to fix it. It's already broken. You have nothing to lose. High quality aftermarket replacement LED strips are ridiculously cheap right now. If you fix it, you'll have this TV to replace the new one when it breaks. The life expectancy of the TVs they're selling today is ridiculously short. And, I guarantee, no new TV will give you more viewing satisfaction than a 6 year old TV fixed by your own hands. Good luck! Thanks for commenting.

I felt the same way. So given the terrible reviews of new washers (they don't clean, they rip clothes, they break constantly, good luck collecting on the warrantee...), we bought the most expensive washer in the appliance store, an American made SpeedQueen. What a piece of junk! It was supposed to be EnergyStar efficient, but it actually used slightly more electricity than our old Whirlpool. Not much, but measurably more, energy use measured exactly as shown here: czcams.com/video/FpybjEOK7-8/video.html in "Frustrated User Guide: Backup Power Project - E10 Laundry Room." The big problem though, was the discharge overflow. How do people tolerate it? We couldn't. Back to the appliance store it went. I'm so glad we kept and fixed our old washer: czcams.com/video/MBZ1Cw698hg/video.html "Frustrated User Guide - 1989 Whirlpool Washer Rustoration PART 2 ." It was well worth the effort. Saved us a ton of money and no new washer being sold today, at least none that I'm aware of, even comes close to the durable model we already had. Why" "They don't make them like that anymore!" Hope watching Part 2 helps you. Good luck! Thanks for commenting.

@@LawrencePina thank you Lawrence. I did watch your videos and another few from others. I decided to remove the gearcase and motor but am still stuck. I can get the brake to budge. I decided I'd just replace that as well as tub but now they seem so fused together there is no moving them.

No, it's not a power issue. It's an LED problem. You can easily prove it by putting a new power supply boards these TVs. Nothing will change, unless you replace the defective LED strips. Good luck! Thanks for commenting.

You're wrong in this case. I agree that cracked solder on connector pins is not always the problem with automotive relays. It wasn't on my Jetta's fuel pump relay czcams.com/video/8Ptkh3ioV4c/video.html (in that case it was carbonized contacts) but cracked solder certainly was the problem on my wiper relay, and here czcams.com/video/sFf2Vx_TeL8/video.html on my shifter module, and on every one of my VW door locks, and on countless other electronic repairs. As for the capacitor, that was cheap, preventative maintenance. Otherwise we risk, "You know that wiper relay you fixed for me some time ago? Well it's doing the same thing..." Who wants to hear that? Please consider watching czcams.com/video/XhlNewlhH3U/video.html "Radio Repair Secrets - Sony TA-AV411 has distorted sound from one channel." Much better pictures of cracked solder joints in that video. Cracked solder is a very common problem. Once you know what to look for, you'll find it everywhere. Use the method shown in this video to resolder and your percentage of successful electronic repairs will go way up. Good luck! Thanks for commenting.

My very early model 470 came with an 802 desoldering gun. Later models of the 470 almost certainly would have come with different desoldering guns. You mention the 817 and 809, but you don't make clear which desoldering gun came with your unit! So, visit hakkousa.com/support/support/user-manuals.html Enter 470 in the search box and download the manual which most closely matches the model you bought. Referring to this manual, hakkousa.com/support/support/user-manuals.html which closely matches my old 470 station equipped with an 802 gun, and assuming you also have an 802 gun, you're going to need: A pack of A1009 ceramic filters for the 470. A pack of A1033 ceramic filters for the 802. A pack of A1030 spring filters for the 802. All three of these are listed on page 21. A pack of A1003 desoldering nozzles, 1 mm or 0.04" (most useful size). A B1087 cleaning pin for use with A1003 nozzles. A B1303 cleaning drill for use with A1003 nozzles. All of this stuff is listed on page 2. The heating element, should you need one, and you will if the tip is missing metal like an old auto exhaust pipe, is an A1029. The heating element is shown on page 21. The cleaning pin (looks like a screwdriver) used with the A1029 heating element is a B1259. You'll definitely need one of those. B1259 is also listed on page 2. You might also need a long cleaning drill for use with the A1029 heating element. I have one, but I'm not sure of the part number. I haven't used it that often... Soldering gun maintenance (use of these tools) is covered very well on page 12 in the manual. One thing the manual overlooks is periodic A1012 O-ring replacement. The O-ring, shown on page 21, is located at the back of the filter pipe. Over a period of time, it petrifies, cracks and causes a vacuum leak. Keep it lubricated with silicon grease and replace it often. The green color, nitrile, O-ring currently in my 802 came from a Harbor Freight O-ring kit, sku 67644. You can also get very inexpensive assortments of micro drill bits, sku 61526 or sku 94606, used for cleaning A1003 and other size nozzles from Harbor Freight. Hope these part numbers help. The 470 is a wonderful tool, but there is a long learning curve and you need all this stuff in order to maintain it. Good luck with your 470! Study the manual. Thanks for asking about it.

Read through the playlist comments. I've not had this problem but others reporting similar symptoms say that the air hose tends to fall off the barb inside the unit. To fix it, they just push the hose back on. As for part numbers, I'm pretty sure you'll find the URL of a Schumacher parts vendor in the one of the Portable Power Repair Secrets comments as well. I've not ordered anything from that vendor, so I don't remember it. You'll have to read through the comments. Good luck! Thanks for commenting.

It's because we willingly buy the stuff and consequently we're the ones who have to dispose of it. Consumers are left holding the bag. If we refused to buy the stuff, then the corporations you mention would be left holding the bag and they would be the ones who'd have to dispose of it. Of course, anyone who thinks this way is considered a domestic terrorist and a threat to our democracy. Best to adopt the woke way of thinking: Throw it away and buy another one. That's how we save the planet!

@@LawrencePina are there any TVs that are superior in the market that you would recommend?

Sorry, no. The display panels of those sold in the US are all junk IMHO, made to fail just out of warranty, because new TVs, new appliances, new cars, new everything, every year or two is what the US consumer wants. Remember what Uncle Scrooge constantly told his nephew Donald Duck? "The customer is always right." That having been said, I prefer to pick late model LG and Samsung TVs out of the recycling shed at the store (aka the town dump) because inexpensive, HQ replacement LED strips for LG and Samsung are readily available direct from Chinese aftermarket vendors. That is generally NOT the case with other brands. Remember, excluding the TVs with smashed LCDs, 99% of the TVs in the recycling shed were discarded because of burned out and/or shorted LEDs. There's no escaping it.

Yes, but most likely you have an edge lit TV like the one shown here czcams.com/video/raicZqT-qVo/video.html in an episode titled "LCD/LED TV Repair Secrets - Half of Display is Barely Visible." Edge lit TVs only have a single row of LEDs at the bottom and use a light guide plate to direct the light upwards. One or two open LEDs at the end of the row would cause the vertical gray/dark column you describe. Cheap enough to fix. Good luck! Thanks for asking.

What capacitors? There are no electrolytic capacitors in an LCD/LED display panel assembly. And, unlike CRT (cathode ray tube) TVs and monitors which had to be discharged using a high-voltage probe before disconnecting the flyback transformer from a recently lit CRT, HV is not present in an LCD/LED display panel. There's nothing to discharge.

@@LawrencePina I was wondering because I want to take a donated broken TV apart for the LEDs to repurpose for a light box project

Too slow? Try watching in 2x, 3x, or 4x...

No room for a socket and a ratchet at that spot, but a ratcheting SAE wrench might have worked. Unfortunately, I only had a set of ratcheting metric wrenches and none of those fit the bolt head very well. Thanks for reminding me. That's why I had a set of ratcheting SAE wrenches on my shopping list! I had completely forgotten why I'd written that. It's tough to get old...

Yes, you might be able to replace it, but usually the air hose just falls off the barb inside the unit. Read through the playlist comments. Others have had compressor problems and usually they just clamp the hose back on. As for part numbers, I'm pretty sure you'll find the URL of a parts vendor in the one of the Portable Power Repair Secrets comments as well. Not something I've ever used so I don't remember it. Good luck! Thanks for commenting.

Your 32" Benq TV might be an edge lit model, like this one czcams.com/video/raicZqT-qVo/video.html with just one row of LEDs at the bottom. Each LED is responsible for a vertical column of light. Three open LEDs would explain the three vertical dark bars. Why not take the TV apart and see if that's the case? The hardest part of the whole job might be removing a single row of old sticky tape from the light box. Sometimes it peels right off with (stays attached to) the old LED strip. Other times it tears and separates from the old LED strip and you've got to scrape it off. No problem though, because new strips come with new double sided sticky tape factory attached to them. If you like the TV, it's worth a shot in my opinion. Assuming there's no overheating damage, and all you find is a single bad LED strip, note the exact part number printed on it, and order a high quality aftermarket part from an online parts vendor. Could be a cheap and easy fix, but you're not going to know for sure until someone takes the TV apart. Really, 32 inch? It's not that hard. Good luck! Thanks for commenting.

Exactly. Go green. Make as much trash as possible. Spend, spend, spend. That's how we woke folk will save the earth.

I have a rescue/repair video on a DieHard 950 czcams.com/video/g5ibI23UWCA/video.html that you might find helpful. Start watching from 15:25. As far as I know, the only difference between the two models is model 1150 has an inverter, 950 doesn't. Other than that, they should be the same. Regarding the fuse, any 1A fuse that you can solder across or (in place of) the open SMD fuse will work. They don't have to be identical. If the replacement fuse blows again, there's a short somewhere in the unit. Hope this helps. Thanks for asking!

@@LawrencePina That was also a nice video! I would say that the DieHard 1150 is actually closer to the XP2260 than to the 950; it has a compressor.

I have a Schumacher XP2260 with that exact same circuit board that is inop. My fuse is not blown, though and I don't see any obvious failures.

I replaced the surface mounted fuse, T 1A 250 V 374, and now the charging circuit works. @TurkeySandwichJr, did you check for continuity across the cylindrical fuse? (not the automotive style fuses).

@@richk6827 yes unfortunately, my board mounted fuse has continuity. I was able to verify a good connection all the way from both 120v male prongs (hot and neutral), all the way to the next board mounted device (the yellow rectangular thing).

Unless it's been under water, badly corroded, or something like that, I'm sure the board is fixable. Did they tell you which board (power supply, inverter, or digital display) has failed and why they felt it was unfixable? Alternately, what are the symptoms?

@LawrencePina It was Interstate battery. They did not tell me which one only it was a bad board. Symptoms are negative terminal arching when installing new battery. The reason for the new battery was a parasitic draw caused the old one to go bad. I have no idea where it was coming from.

Try disconnecting the inverter to battery negative cable as shown at 1:40 in this video: czcams.com/video/OsAhYTDgEr8/video.html If the parasitic drain goes away, everything else should still work fine, meaning you'll still have a jump starter, a USB charger, a DC power source (very handy for DC lighting, DC refrigerators, etc.), still have an air compressor, and still have a work light. Trying this won't cost any money and even though it's not the perfect solution, it makes a lot more sense than throwing the whole unit away. Especially, when you can replace that 400W inverter with an external plug in unit from Harbor Freight that's frequently on sale for just $15 or so. Give it (disconnecting the inverter negative cable) a try. Let me know how you make out. If you still get sparks it means the problem is NOT in the inverter and we'll take it from there...

After hours of trying I've managed to salvage the situation by sideloading an updated Google Play apk and then updating Google services again. Now my Netflix works again. But thank you for the Clock Sync and SkyTube apps, work like a charm.

It's easy enough to re-enable Google Play services. Just toggle it back on. To update it, download version 23.02.14 for Android 4.4+ from this page: www.apkmirror.com/apk/google-inc/google-play-services/google-play-services-23-02-14-release/google-play-services-23-02-14-000300-503200382-android-apk-download/ then install it like any other app. When asked if you want to update Google Play services, indicate yes, wait a few minutes (it takes longer than most updates) and any app that requires it should start working again (assuming that app still has Google's permission to work). Unfortunately, your box, if it's anything like mine, will return to painfully s l o w mode after re-enabling Google Play services, and the newer, faster apps for KitKat that don't require Google Play services will be prevented from working. Hope this helps. Thanks for reporting the Netflix issue.

@@LawrencePinathank you, it worked :)