Video

I wish I could remember. You just press a tab on it and pull those apart, no?

Thank you. I try. Still need to do a good detailing some time.

oh yeah.. very much educated in : how to share confusion among peers.

I am planning on doing more, thanks!

Hi. There is a few ways of getting it - it can be downloaded and installed on your PC, if you're good at that, or I believe some places sell hard drives with everything pre-installed, that can be swapped into a cheap laptop.

@Chris-707 Hi! Are you talking about INPA or ISTA+? I think Bimmergeeks only provides INPA download, BUT I may be wrong, I should check. Creating a virtual machine on windows 10 isn't difficult, but I suppose it needs to be a tutorial that anyone can follow, to make it easy to complete.

Money 😂

@@CryptoDOZER-b8d Me too

91 only

I would think that any shakes at higher speeds in general are caused by rotational masses - like tires and wheels, in first place. Engine mounts should mainly feel as excessive vibrations, not really related to car's speed. So in your case it seems like something else is making the car shake.

@@maxsam201 i have problems when around 130 km/h and higher Every things in front subframe is new and now its coming from the rear New flex dics new cetner bearing Maybe axle shafts? Bmw e91 320d

@user-sm8hx1zk2v I see. So the wheels and tires are good, not bent and are balanced? I had bad balancing of tires in the past. The next thing is to check if all mounting surfaces are clean - hub's, wheels and brake discs surfaces. Wheel bolts are torqued properly and evenly? After that wheel hub bearings should be checked. After THAT - I would check differential bushings. I'm also assuming that all the control arms are in ok shape? Rear upper rearward control arm has a ball joint on the inner end, that often wears out and starts to exhibit an excessive play. Let me know what you find out!

@@maxsam201 oke thakns

Yeah. That is what I did, it seemed to work.

@oyurcha1 That's how it is, usually, these are driven by the cost of the final product. E9x (especially N52 powered cars) is a low budget car at this point, only M3 still has some value, people are not spending money on expensive "upgrades".

@Cevium I'm working on a video that shows some details of this process, but it's not going to be a step-by-step how-to on building that exact cluster. I'm thinking about doing a separate video just for the rings replacement process.

@Maaaaaax-07 Hi. I'm glad this video is helpful. Front subframe?

👍 nice. But I had a few other brake kits before this 😅 so it's not that noticeable

@jumperxd3465 You are welcome! I'm glad it was helpful. Sweden is awesome 👍

@galainautos4797 The wiring needs to be modified exactly as it's described in my videos (and on bmw forums) - including the clutch switch and then the DME needs to be coded. You can keep automatic transmission wiring harness, but you still have to do those modifications and coding. Your car is not going to be drivable if you don't do that.

I'm glad it helped you! Thank you.

A video about that is coming up soon!

How?

It's pressed against the channel and the inlet. There is no lock on it

That's cool, I've been wanting to buy a 135 for a number of years now... I imagine that 135i being a turbo engine, sounds different with the similar changes to the piping. Thinking about updating midpipes - to get rid of secondary cats. Or I should just move on to N55 or B58.

@@maxsam201 True the turbo makes everything different. There are noticeable differences between the n54 and n55 tones in the 135i. Popular upgrade for n54 135i is to swap mids. the n55 mids don't have secondary cats. people with n55 will take out resonator and put a y pipe. If you have catless the resonator helps with rasp. Some changes make turbo sound louder. I tried catless for 2 months and it was great but the smell got to me so I went with a race cat. I got my n55 6 yrs ago used so It was affordable. Now the b58 is affordable. I would look for a F series if I started over. Only thing I don't like is the steering is electronic instead of hydraulic. B58 can make more power than N55 and probably sounds better.

Cool stuff. I tried the new Supra / Z4 and that car has got power even in stock shape. B58 is probably the way to move forward, but at this point I'm not really sure what to do next.

@@maxsam201 yes b58. n55 is too old. it was good enough for me 6 yrs ago but today i would do s55 or b58.

No droning, it's the sound itself that get a bit too loud at some speeds and RPMs. This resonator is my step #1 in "tuning" the sound, I want to make the exhaust to be a bit less of volume and to sound somewhat unique.

There is no droning!

Hi. I will measure it and make a short video; many people are asking this question.

​@@maxsam201Great, thanks

Thanks!

ACE hardware is still running the sale on it.

Hi. Z4is rotors are 348x30 mm, F30 are 340 mm. Here is BMW Z4is BMW Disc Brake Rotor - Front 34116782593 Brembo Part # 09.C415.13

@@maxsam201 RealOEM says 348x30 for the Z4 35i front rotors. Part #34116782593. Am I missing something? Are these what you used in the video?

I corrected my reply. You are actually right, Z4is uses 348mm rotor, the same as 335i. Non-IS Z4 is 330mm. Sorry. Yes, that's what I used on my car.

Awesome! Thanks for the information.

Thanks! Gas / accelerator pedal is a direct fit, you have to choose the one that has the correct part number for manual transmission. It plugs in, no coding or wiring manipulations is needed.

I think I have a video on linkage rebuilding. Did you search for that video?

@@maxsam201 yes I have been searching for days now 😭

Maybe I never uploaded it :( Sorry. Here is the one that i have czcams.com/video/nKbjHHUyC5s/video.html

Could you rephrase it?

Should be coming out soon.

Sure thing, I hope you get it done without too much trouble!

Yeah, I liked those. But the quality is not the same anymore.

Tesla is junk, no question about that.

As far as I recall, BMW says that it needs to be around 14.5 V, which is alternator's voltage, which is in turn the nominal voltage in the industry. This charger adjusts to a minimum of 14.2 V even though it says "15", so it works fine for me. I charged multiple cars with it, other bmws, never had a problem. In my opinion, 15V is still safe - car's system is designed to handle a certain range - depending on the conditions of the devices, the climate / season / weather. BUT - if you don't feel confident or safe with this voltage - then don't do it. Try to find something else that can produce the exact recommended voltage.

I did give that idea a thought, they look cool, but a bit pricey, and i want to preserve the authenticity. A really bad move on BMW's part to get rid of coolant temperature, in my opinion.

This microphone isn't really presenting the full picture - the exhaust is actually much louder than that.

I agree. Makes me sad to destroy things that have been engineered. But no one wants these parts, almost impossible to sell anything like this.

You have to close those circuits. Otherwise, it's going to be a mess for the rest of the devices.

Go for it!

Interesting... but we shall see. Thanks for the concern!

Hi! I physically don't own 265 tires at this moment, unfortunately, so I cannot try that size. As far as I know, LCI may rub without rolling the edge of the quarter panel, pre-LCI should be ok the way it is.