Video

The total cost was around $500. You can find more info on the project at www.hackster.io. Just search for my name, Bob Blomquist. The latest version of the game has a video display that logs high scores and the like. It was programmed in Python on a Raspberry Pi. The rest of the game play was programmed in C on the Arduino. The full code is available that this site. Bob

@@fluoracrylate thanks can't wait to dive in to this thing. I want to add video and I have an idea on aruino sending keyboard keys to essentially bring up a script that will add video to the backglass when different things or events are trigged. I plan on having a looping video. I plan on giving the can a theme and I even have a idea for a cool game. I will be starting this in the future but now I will gather up supplies and start learning how to code this stuff. What I am doing now is pretty hard and I have a lot to go on this project. Well thanks I be sure to remember this channel the future when I start everything big thanks man.

Yes, I run them directly off the Arduino. I don't use a resistor. They work fine as is.

And check out my 2 player pinball machine on my channel

You can find the code I used and a lot more information at www.hackster.io/BobB/arduino-controlled-pinball-machine-525863

For more information about this, see www.hackster.io/BobB/pinball-sounds-and-music-bac92b

Bob Blomquist thanks. Been looking at it all morning, I don't see the wave files. That's ok, I'm going to make my own anyway, but I thought if I would use yours in testing at least if it didn't work it wouldn't be the files themselves. I notice your code triggers by number. I trust those can be redefined as names that are easier to recognize. So instead of 6, you could have 10chime or so. Also. You are using 24 volts, is that ac or D.C.?

Sorry, I missed your reply until now. The numbers are required by the Wave Trigger board. Some of the boards commands allow you to play music in sequence. Hence the numbers. I got the Pinball sounds from freesound.org/people/relwin/packs/10675/. The power supply is 24 volts DC. All electronic circuits generally work on DC.

Bob Blomquist half of my old pinball parts use ac the rest D.C.

I used a 24 volt power supply. It worked fine for the flippers and the slingshots. At first, it seemed underpowered for the Pop Bumpers. When I ordered them, they came with a AE-26-1200 coil. It turns out that I was able to increase the power from the pop bumpers by changing the coils. I installed a more powerful AE-25-1000 coil. The lower the last number (the number of wire windings) the more powerful the coil. This did the trick. If you order pop bumpers using the link above, you can specify the size coil you want.

+Bob Blomquist thanks really helped

For more information about the programming and other aspects of the project, see the following links. www.hackster.io/BobB/arduino-controlled-pinball-machine-525863?ref=search&ref_id=pinball&offset=2 www.hackster.io/BobB/pinball-sounds-and-music-bac92b?ref=search&ref_id=pinball&offset=1

Great thanks Bob.

+Adriano Singolani Here’s the link for the pop bumpers I used. www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=POP_ASSY1 You will also need a pop bumper switch like this one. www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=515-6459-09R You’ll also need a bumper cap. www.actionpinball.com/pops.php If you are going keep score of the pop bumper hits, you’ll also need a voltage divider. As I mentioned in the video I used a 24 volt main power supply, so I could use a commercial voltage divider (www.robotshop.com/en/dfrobot-voltage-divider.html?gclid=CNbDyP-xlsoCFYeRHwod9jgJjw). If you want more power to your bumpers, you will have to make your own voltage divider. To install the unit, I recommend that you first make a demo using a spare piece of plywood. You will need to drill 3 holes. Two small ones are for the metal support rods. The bigger middle hole is for the white piece of plastic that activates the switch. Wiring is difficult to describe in this format. To wire the bumpers, I ran a wire from the positive terminal of the 24 volt power supply to a bus bar. I then ran a wire from the bus bar to the switch and another wire from the switch to the pop bumper. For both the switch and the pop bumper, you want to run the wire first to the terminal where the diode is connected with the stripe on that end. Run a wire from here to the voltage divider. Then run a wire from the other terminal on the pop bumper to a ground bus bar. Finally run a wire from the bus bar to the negative terminal of the power supply. ( Note: the bus bar makes it easy to connect multiple devices to the same power supply.) Follow the voltage divider directions and connect that to the Arduino Board in a way similar to the described for the rollover switch below. (Note: be sure to check the amount of voltage coming through the parts of the divider before connecting it to the Arduino. You don’t want to send too much voltage to it. An example of a rollover switch and mount can be found here. www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=A-12687 Only the wire is above the playing field. When the ball rolls over the wire, it pushes it down where it trips the switch. To make the switch turn on an LED light, see www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/InputPullupSerial Your final question is about the Arduino board power supply. The board is powered when you connect it to a PC using a USB cable. However, you don’t want to have to power on a computer every time you want to play pinball. So after you have everything all programmed, I recommend you use a separate power supply to run the board. I connected it to a power strip that I use to turn the machine on and off. Here’s a suitable power supply. www.adafruit.com/products/63?gclid=CLT4-e2ylsoCFYEfHwodsaEJJg Note: Test, test and retest before connecting anything. No warrantee with these instructions.

+nicolasjr Here's a bunch of links that may help. Good mechanical reference howtobuildapinballmachine.wordpress.com/category/the-playfield/ A pinball is a 1 1/16 inch diameter (about 3 cm) steel sphere that weighs 2.8 ounces (80 g). Pinball flipper link pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers General Parts www.actionpinball.com Bumper parts www.actionpinball.com/pops.htm Flipper parts mad-amusements.com/product.php?id_product=235 Flipper troubleshooting. pinballhelp.com/fixing-messed-up-pinball-flippers-slingshots-and-ball-kickers/ Fully flipper assembly www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=172 Flipper Diagram www.pinballmedic.net/images/parts/eos_flipper.jpg 24 Volt 6.5 amp Power Supply www.circuitspecialists.com/ps1-150w-24.htmlwww.circuitspecialists.com/ps1-150w-24.html Wiring. 18 Gauge for bumpers, 22 gauge for switches. One statement about flipper distance The flippers are of the standard Bally type for this era. The only unique feature worth mentioning is that the gap between the flippers is abnormally large. Due to the absence of outlanes to drain a ball, the game required a larger gap at the bottom to equalize play. The distance between the two flippers (from rubber to rubber) is 2 7/16"! Custom Decal dalidecals.com/Custom-Printed-Wall-Decals-and-Murals.html Hubble Print Shop hubblesite.org/gallery/printshop/ps35/ Blade Switch Mounts www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/95-4184-00 Flipper button www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-12273-2 Bumper Cap www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-3713-12