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BriGuyGarage
United States
Registrace 27. 01. 2017
Micrometers - How To Read, Zero, and Measure - A Beginners Guide!
In this video we're going to cover one of the most useful measuring tools - the micrometer! We'll be looking at how to read them, how to zero / calibrate them, and how to measure with them.
0-1" Micrometer:
amzn.to/3xL1s3m
1-2" Micrometer:
amzn.to/4bwGByD
2-3" Micrometer:
amzn.to/45SgdxR
3-4" Micrometer:
amzn.to/3RSRsMj
4-5" Micrometer:
amzn.to/4ctapgF
5-6" Micrometer:
amzn.to/3W5NEd0
Digital Vernier Calipers:
amzn.to/3L8yTQa
Dial Bore Gauge Kit:
amzn.to/3RVGdm5
Disclosure: The above links are Amazon affiliate links!
0-1" Micrometer:
amzn.to/3xL1s3m
1-2" Micrometer:
amzn.to/4bwGByD
2-3" Micrometer:
amzn.to/45SgdxR
3-4" Micrometer:
amzn.to/3RSRsMj
4-5" Micrometer:
amzn.to/4ctapgF
5-6" Micrometer:
amzn.to/3W5NEd0
Digital Vernier Calipers:
amzn.to/3L8yTQa
Dial Bore Gauge Kit:
amzn.to/3RVGdm5
Disclosure: The above links are Amazon affiliate links!
zhlédnutí: 207
Video
LOOK WHAT I FOUND! - Engine Disassembly - 1979 Trans Am Part 3
zhlédnutí 626Před 6 měsíci
IT'S NOT STOCK! Lend a hand as we disassemble the engine from the '79 Trans Am. What will we find? Old parts? Go fast parts? Camshaft carnage? All of the above?! Follow me on Instagram: BriGuyGarage BOOKS: Oldsmobile V8 Engines - How to Rebuild amzn.to/3HXcMeh Oldsmobile V8 Engines - MAX Performance amzn.to/49fBNwv TOOLS I USE: GloveWorks HD Nitrile 8 mil Gloves (I'll never go back to the black...
Pulling the 403 - Engine Removal - 1979 Trans Am Part 2
zhlédnutí 2,9KPřed rokem
It's finally time! In this video you'll be tagging along while I pull the 403 out of my '79 Trans Am. Big Red Engine Load Leveler for Hoist: amzn.to/3LjVOth ProForm Carburetor Engine Lift Plate: amzn.to/3LrprbY Oldsmobile Engine Rebuild Book: amzn.to/3lbxS0o amzn.to/3FjCbgW Pontiac Engine Rebuild Book: amzn.to/3ZI9F0V Small Block Chevy Rebuild Book: amzn.to/429Aug8 Follow me on Instagram to che...
BUILT 355 Cam Break In - 1973 Camaro Part 3
zhlédnutí 264Před rokem
The freshly rebuilt engine is back in and ready to fire up. Will I have another cam failure or will this one survive? Big thanks to Jones Cam for grinding me a quality cam and providing me with the best hydraulic flat rappet lifters available. Cam specs: Hydraulic flat tappet 110 Lobe centerline 224/233 duration @ .050” .501”/.507” lift with 1.52 rockers Follow me on instagram! @BriGuyGarage
Chevy Silverado GMC Sierra - Service Trailer Brake System - EASY & CHEAP FIX
zhlédnutí 184KPřed rokem
In this video we will be looking at how to repair the very common “service trailer brake system” warning for Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra. It’s cheap, easy, and shouldn’t take you long! Gm Genuine Parts Trailer Brake Swirch: amzn.to/3vQ5CSZ Trim tools: amzn.to/3AffSqa IG: BriGuyGarage The above links to tools, items, and parts used in this video may earn me a small commission through Amazon. ...
I Bought A NEW Project Car! - 1979 Trans Am Part 1
zhlédnutí 4,1KPřed rokem
Here is Part 1, the introduction to my new 1979 Trans Am! Stay tuned to follow along with this new project! IG: BriGuyGarage
Camshaft Bearing Installation - Step by Step
zhlédnutí 54KPřed rokem
In this video we’ll be taking an in depth look at the process of installing camshaft bearing in a Small Block Chevy. Previous video showing engine disassembly and cam bearing removal: czcams.com/video/rJ15uHo9sT8/video.html I HIGHLY RECOMMEND this book below. It has detailed instructions, tips, and full color images detailing every step: Small Block Chevrolet Stock and High Performance Rebuild ...
350 SBC Disassembly - 1973 Camaro Part 2 - Wiped a Cam
zhlédnutí 1,1KPřed 2 lety
Watch along and listen to the lovely sound of impacts and hand tools while I disassemble my SBC 350 to prepare for a full block cleaning after wiping a camshaft. You may even walk away with a tip or two! Instagram: BriGuyGarage I HIGHLY RECOMMEND this book below. It has detailed instructions, tips, and full color images detailing every step: Small Block Chevrolet Stock and High Performance Rebu...
Remove Stuck Broken ABS Wheel Sensor The Right Way
zhlédnutí 60KPřed 2 lety
Today we take a quick look at how to remove a stuck or broken ABS / wheel speed sensor that has snapped clean off in the hub, without any drilling or introducing foreign material into your wheel bearings.
Rochester 2 Jet 2G 2GC 2GV Disassembly for Rebuild
zhlédnutí 64KPřed 6 lety
Rochester 2 Jet 2G 2GC 2GV Disassembly for Rebuild
Outstanding Breakdown Sir! …any other channels, Take Note.
Just did this for my 2015 Sierra. Extremely well made and helpful video; however, the error still populating when I start the truck. Any else have this issue? Probably helpful to know its slow to crank as well so probably electrical related
I’m sorry to hear you’re still having this issue. I’ve been looking into it more recently. Some things you can check: There are braided ground straps on the passenger side of the engine. I think there are two, I still need to verify. One I believe is from firewall to engine block. Another is further down from I believe firewall to frame. If you look under the car you’ll be able to see where it bolts to the frame - kind of near/behind the wheel well liner. Check that those are connected, clean, and not rusting away. The next thing I’d check is the trailer brake control module. It’s underneath the rear of the truck near the spare tire. Some people have reported removing the connectors and having water/rust fall out. Take a look at that. May need a new wiring harness or a new module. I’m going to look into this further on our Silverado and make a video sometime soon.
Excellent video. Thanks for posting. You definitely gained a follower. Very well done!
I'm getting a massage. Service wire harness? Any ideas. Thanks mate 😊👍
That’s a new one. Does it even say what wire harness?
@@BriGuyGarage trailer wire harness. ( 2017 Silverado 1500 Z71
You should get a set of standard punches, tapered punches are not standard and have much more limited applications.
UPDATE! The aftermarket trailer brake switch that I installed in this video had failed since posting the video. I have removed it from the description and have left the GM genuine part. Be aware!
Did you find an OEM part anywhere?
BIG HELP!!! THANKS!!!
Great video. Ordering one now. Can't wait to try it
👍
If it’s a 403 it should say 6.6 LITRE ON the Shaker
You done a great job of showing and explaining on how to change that switch out. Thank you
This method worked really well. I did not remove the hub though. I disconnected the lower arm, tie rod and pulled the axle out. After I got the sensor out I used varying grits of sandpaper to clean the rust out of the bore. Thanks!!
I thought this would cost me a arm and leg to fix. You have help my blood pressure go down. It is 18 months later after you did this video but everything happen the way you said it would but the cost of the switch doubled to $42 . Still it is better that having the dealership put it in. Thank you.
Just received the part, was able to install and finish everything in less than five mins. Hopefully it doesn’t show up ever again. Really appreciate this video.
Very concise and to the point. You could take the majority of these CZcams fix it guys to school!
Just changed out this switch using your recommended trim tools and I had it changed in about 5 minutes. Super easy. Thanks for the video on how to do it. I know my dealership would have charged me hundreds to do what cost me about $20.
I thought you did a Great job on the cam bearing installation especially to illustrate to someone who wouldn't understand, i assemble engines on a regular basis and my company wants the bearings to line up with the Main feed but I will position my 383 on the 4 o'clock position!!Thanks for sharing and yes your machine shop did a nice job cleaning, boring and honeing your block for a great foundation!!😊😊
Great video👍 You are a great instructor. How did you determine the the switch was bad? Thanks
I used oven cleaner to clean exhaust off of rental equipment
I use WD and PB Blaster to clean my cordless tools. It cleans diesel grime right off the plastic and rubber. I also use them to clean my lights on the lenses. It won’t kill the clear plastic like brake clean 👍🏻
Thanks for the info on the part and tool set. Ordered them last night with overnight shipping. They arrived this morning and I had it swapped out in less than 20 minutes. Your video was EXTREMELY thorough and helpful!!! Thanks for the help.
Great video! I was experiencing this issue every few days with my 2015 Silverado. I followed this video to replace trailer brake switch last week and so far the issue is resolved! Very glad for this cheap and easy fix vs several hundred dollar fix by dealer.
Hola amigo ya le cambie el Switch y las letras no se quitan de la pantalla que devo hacer ?
How about the where the bolt goes for the sensor I got my sensor out and bolt but the threads are stripped, any tips? Drill new hold, and use tap and dye to create new threads? Weld a bolt into the hole of the stripped threads? Thanks for any help
The threads in the bolt hole are stripped?
@@BriGuyGarage Yes
@@youtubebros Take your bolt to the hardware store to find out what size the threads are. You can use a thread chaser of the same size to repair any rolled over threads inside the hole. If it’s REALLY stripped and the threads have been ruined, use a tap. Either use a tap the next size up, or drill a hole specified for a larger tap - whatever you have on hand. Make sure the new bolt for the size you’re tapping it to fits through the mounting hole on the sensor.
@@BriGuyGarage I will but having a hard time drillling into the cast Iron Knuckle. Not sure the type of drill bit to use. I think mine is metal.
@@youtubebros You’ll want to use carbide drill bits. You need to drill that hole completely straight, can’t be on an angle or the tap won’t cut right. You can always take a bolt the next size up and just muscle it in there! 😂
amazing how a person can give instructions wrong while learning a procedure, kinda reminds me of a electrocardioligst instructing on pacemaker installs when he never really did it for a living
Eh, I’ve learned to do it with the block on the workbench so the hits are solid. Also upgraded to a better cam bearing tool which helped a ton. Never said I was perfect, but feel free to make a video and show me the right way!
That engine was definitly built to haul ass. Nice early 80s build. Ive used alot of them old parts, messed with Olds engines for decades myself. Still have a few. They can run.
That was actually a pretty good build. Couldnt really see good, but it looked like it might have forged pistons and a forged 330 crank. What heads are on it? Those ports looked pretty big. Dave Smith was a Olds guru. Built 1000+hp Pro Stock Olds smallblocks. Dude was good. If he built that engine, you have a well built unit. Id keep it like he built it. Just freshen it up. Modern hydraulic roller cam would be a good investment. Ive used those main cap straps on a few 455s i built decades ago. They help. That cam was probabably a pretty good sized bumpstick looking at the rest of the build. Id bet that engine made over 450-475 hp and probably as much torque.
Yup, 330 forged crank. Has 7a heads. Not sure if the pistons are forged, I have to take a closer look. Old machine shop sheet lists them as TRW pistons, but not what type. What you suggested is exactly what I’m doing. I’m going to measure the cam lobes and find one as close to it as I can, and freshen everything else up. Run it like it was built back then. Can’t wait to see how it does. I need to look over the heads for any evidence of further machining as well
@@BriGuyGarage TRW, they probably are forged. Those heads look ported, intake ports look like 455 ports. Pretty cool old engine for sure. I have a 403 I built 35yrs ago, currently disassembled, but I'm gearing up to put it back together. It ran pretty damn good. Used a 33 crank in it with prepped 403 rods with ARP bolts and Kieth Black pistons. Lunati 245/245@.050, 560/560 lift, 108 lobe separation Streetmaster cam and I used 455 J-heads that were milled. Took it up to 6500rpm many times, never blew up. Ran mid 7s in the 8th.
330 forged crank also has its own flexplate, so if ya don't have one, be aware of that. I used the 66 330 crank, balancer and flexplate. 403 rods are the best SBO stock rods.
@@thereluctantgearhead4544 Damn! That’s a big ol boomstick! Sounds like a wild setup. I just got done measuring my main and rod bearings, as well as the current crank journal diameters. Next up is to go get the crank turned. As for the flex plate, someone actually put a multi-year flex plate on it (has a weight that you can mount in different spots). I thought this was suspicious as it was the only new looking part on the old build. I’m getting the rotating assembly checked and if need be balanced as well.
@@thereluctantgearhead4544 Curious on your opinion - Do you think I should put all new valve springs in there, or do you think they’re alright after all these years? I may have to remove the inner springs for break in.
Just curious does this also mean the switch is truly broken? Or does it still work with the alarm going off?
Dónde puedo comprar ese tráiler brake
Dónde puedo comprar ese tráiler brake
STABILITRAC can throw a lot of ghost codes that can make repair facilities a lot of money and not even get close to the exact reason for the reduced engine power. We have a sudden attack of the TRAILER BRAKE CONTROLLER which then threw the REDUCED ENGINE POWER and CYLINDER 7 which was NOT defective. In my case (2017 2500HD LT) we received; P0097, P00F4, P0113, P227B, P227D, P0207, P021A, and P1050, P0307. Just to get the TRAILER BRAKE CONTROLLER to SHUT UP I unplugged my trailer wire, pulled the trailer brake controller fuse and even the trailer brake charger fuse and it STILL continued. Turns out the wire harness was damaged from rubbing on the frame and had exposed wired that were shorting and grounding out that also caused other systems to malfunction. True these systems were in need of attention (NOX sensors and DEF Pump) however they had nothing to do with either the TRAILER BRAKE CONTROLLER or the DEF pump. We have also had the REDUCED ENGINE POWER just from the MASS AIR FLOW wire being loose. After replacing the NOX sensor, pulling the trailer brake switch, trailer brake wire, and trailer brake controller we repaired the wire put it all back in and the only thing that was left was the DEF Pump. SUDDENLY, we also needed a new particulate exhaust sensor too (imagine that).
Great video, thanks for making it. Exactly what my 2015 had been doing for years progressively getting worse. I ordered the one in your link and changed it in ten minutes just like you said. Very happy camper. 👍
Glad it went well!
Best video for this repair that I've seen. Thanks
Actually, I have been suffering from it for more than a year. Thank you for the quick solution. The best like and subscription for your support. I am Muhammad from Saudi Arabia, an expert in motorcycle trips.
You’re very welcome Muhammad! I hope this fixes your problem. Greeting from New York!
IM having this issue when my trailer is plugged in, so would that be because the switch is shot? I don't get an error message while driving daily. Only when I am trying to tow, and that's when it starts off intermittent then the alarm just becomes constant? Thanks for the help. Great video.
Hmm.. if it is only occurring when it is plugged in, I would suspect the truck/trailer wiring near the plug/receptacle, or perhaps the module found at the back of the truck. I haven’t personally had an issue other than the switch, so I’ll need to do some digging. Check for corrosion by the receptacle at the back of the truck. You’ll need to get under there and look behind the bumper as well. For the plug coming from trailer, trace the wires and make sure they’re in good condition and going to the proper locations. You should be able to easily find a wiring diagram on Google.
Thanks buddy!!! I’ll have a peak after work!
Every used cam bearing ive ever seen, had 90% of its wear (or more) at the 5-6 oclock positions. Performance builders install them at 4oclock iirc
the part has now doubled in price thanks to the war on fossil fuels and mfg
nice job !! you get an A for that instruction
Use a cam holding/installation tool. 🙄
Great video mate 🤩 Started drilling mine, but My brain turned on so i stopped 😆
Hey I have a question. My light comes on but only when the trailer is connected but its random. Would that point to the issue being with the trailer wire and not the truck?
This tutorial was flawless, please make more like this. 👍
I replaced that part and fuse and is still not working. Any idea what it can be?
Great video thank you this was driving me nuts ever 30 second beep beep beep 😂😂😂
Something simple thank you 😂
Brian, Can you tell me the float level and drop in inches for a Rochester 2 barrel 2GV that came from a 1969 Chevy G10 van 307 V8 and if I measure to the solder joint or bottom of the brass float. Oddly, the kit I bought came with a cardboard measuring tool but no spec sheet to tell me the measurement and I cannot find anything on line. Thanks. Joe
Hey Joseph. My kit came with the little cardboard ruler too. It also came with a big piece of paper that had instructions on it. One of the sections was how to set your float levels, and it had the information there. Yours didn’t come with any papers? It’s been a long time since I’ve done this, I looked but couldn’t find the box - it’s probably long gone. If you can’t find it let me know and I’ll see what I can find.
@@BriGuyGarage If you go to O’Reilly’s auto parts and tell them your kit information they can print it out for you at the store.
Looks like the above comment was for you!
Can I just unplug the top part if I never use it ? I believe the bottom/middle part is for the lights
Thank you so much man, that was botherling me alot akd dealership would probably want $200 for that. lol
Thank you for this video. Hopefully this is my trucks issue. Its been aggravating me for months.
My battery is going dead overnight along with “service trailer brakes” message. I used a trailer with brakes one time. 😢
Sounds like you have something else going on here. How old is the battery? There’s usually a sticker or a label on it with the date it was made. Do you drive the truck a lot?
I have new dual batteries. I jump it and it is fine. I read it is probably the module above spare tire not kicking out when key is off. Later when I get home I will check connector plug to see if power is on brakes with key off.
@PackedFunk Let me know what you find!