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KBWheelin
Registrace 14. 12. 2017
Jeep builds, how to’s and off-road adventures
Video
Just over here trying to be nimble with the 5speed #jeepyj #rockcrawler #offroad
zhlédnutí 1,2KPřed 3 měsíci
Jeep Jku chromoly shafts install
zhlédnutí 70Před 3 měsíci
throwing some chromoly shafts in a dana 30 on my 2010 Jeep Jku after a failed u joint trashed the stub shaft. process is the same on thew rubicons with dana 44 its pretty simple and well worth it. I found these on a good sale and cost 100 bucks over stock replacement so it was a no brainer.
Was he even really stuck tho lol #jeep #jeepjk #offroadrecovery
zhlédnutí 10KPřed 3 měsíci
Got a little carried away with that bump lol #jeep #jeepyj
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Just a little tug to help em out of the swamp 😂
zhlédnutí 11KPřed 4 měsíci
Jeep JKU trashed rear control arms
zhlédnutí 123Před 4 měsíci
Fixing the trashed rear upper control arms on my 2011 Jeep JKU and investigating a horrible front end noise to find a nice surprised lol
The 1 ton Yj playin in the puddle. Had to find out for myself why everyone was getting stuck
zhlédnutí 5KPřed 8 měsíci
1ton Jeep YJ came to save the day! Pulling the xj free from the mud pit
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The xj gettin saved using the Rhino USA kinetic rope
zhlédnutí 7KPřed 8 měsíci
ARB Compressor Install & Rewire for Independent Locker Control
zhlédnutí 598Před 11 měsíci
I install a single ARB compressor on my Jeep Wrangler YJ to finish up the 1 ton swap and get my lockers functioning. I go tru how to rewire the arb harness so that the lockers can be controlled independently of one another.
jeep JK body armor install
zhlédnutí 1,2KPřed rokem
installing body armor on mt 2011 jeep JKU Body armor: a.co/d/dwAUTF9 Rivet Tool: a.co/d/7qdOKUJ
Superduty Dana 50/60 Regear & ARB install detailed
zhlédnutí 2,1KPřed rokem
I install a set of Yukon 5.38 Gears and an ARB locker in my super duty axle for my 1 ton swap on my jeep YJ
1 ton crossover steering install on Jeep TJ
zhlédnutí 2,9KPřed rokem
getting rid of the tiny fragile stock steering and putting in a 1 ton super beefy crossover steering system on my buddies 98 Jeep TJ Steering system: a.co/d/hjVKhii Alignment tool: a.co/d/9S34cW8
jeep 4.0 intake/exhaust manifold gasket and exhaust manifold replacement PART 2
zhlédnutí 778Před rokem
I reassemble the intake and exhaust manifold with a fresh gasket and get the Jeep TJ running again!!
So does the thick red wire go to Positive on Battery, and you said you combined thick blk/white and thin blk, so do those 2 go to Negative on battery? and on the red/blk/green/yellow wires. Red would go to my sPOD, is the blk the ground? Since I have no lockers i can snip off green and yellow and by the thick red and white i can snip those 2 connections that are for the Front/Rear Lockers?
Super appreciate the honesty. Every video I saw made it seem like they should be free as a bird. Every sequence ended the same...smooth rotation with a decent amount of resistance. You finally showed me the resistance is expected.
Were the bungs pre welded?
Yes
I've been following your videos for over a year. I based my build off yours. Great work, brother!
Been watching your videos a lot lately. Really helped for a guideline. Im building a Yj on o6 f250 dana 60 in the front and 06 chevy 14 bolt in the rear. I got the barns jk truss im going with 3 link front with double triangulated 4 link rear. Using stock jk coil springs. 3 link videos were super helpfull. What are your thoughts on double triangulated rear. In that situation sould my upper and lower links be the same length?
That’s awesome! Thank you for your support! Sounds like an awesome build, I think double triangulated 4 links are great and has less to no flex steer. Only reason I didn’t do it on this build was because I have place on running a doubler set up and didn’t want to have issues with the crossmember I would have to build for the links being in the way. Always go thru a 4 calculator to check everything but I pretty much have always ran same length uppers and lowers on a double triangulated 4 link
Great video. I want to get rid of my powertrax lunch box locker. I want to go back to stock spider gears. My question is when putting it's back together do I need to do the lash again? Will I have shims to deal with Dana 44 98 TJ.
Technically speaking no. You are supposed to put everything back together the way it came out. The gears are worn together and should not be changed. Changes to the backlash could cause noises under acceleration or deceleration. Good luck with your project!
I finally completed my rear!!! Now on to my front. I must say i have gone over this 3 part video like 6 or 7 times for notes, lol. One question regarding the upper and lower links are they all the same length, or did u make the upper link shorter or longer than the lowers?? Thanks again for all the amazing content
That’s awesome! Congrats. So on mine I did the upper link longer to help maintain caster while driving. But it’s still a balance cause you have to keep the driveline happy. Busted knuckle has a great three link calculator you can download for free that will help with running all the numbers and seeing how they will effect caster and pinion angle during travel.
How did you know how high to mount your upper coil tower prior to this?
I went over it in one of my other videos when I built the 3 link but it’s based off ride height and coil over length
Ok thanks, I'll check out that video, I must of missed it.
Hi, you said the self tapping screws you used are 5” long? Maybe you meant 5/8”? Thanks
#10 5/8in long
you using fluxcore or gas? been scared to start my yj build myself, tired of staring at it on jackstands. my 1 local shop that’s able to do it, still hasn’t gotten back to me…
Flux core. I did this project using it just to show it could be.It was a budget build kinda thing. Personally tho I like to use gas when possible but as long as the machine you use is big enough amps wise it doesn’t matter
Learning a lot on this channel. Please keep them coming good sir
Hey buddy how goes it =) I have been studying your build like crazy as I'm building my yj. On this part or the video I'm wondering at ride height what is the distance that u have between the coil and the inside sidewall at the top of the tire. Thanks and all the best.
Hey hope the build is going great. The space between the tire and coil is all gonna depend on the backspace your wheels have I’m running 4.5” backspace and I’m around 4-5 “ of space between the coil over and the tire
Awesome budy. I really appreciate u getting back with me. I will be sure to check my back spacing. I know I'm going to be running some steel wheels with 39s. All the best and again thanks for reaching out
why not use the press to press the ring into the locker assembly?.. I am curious.. some people say pressing the ring into the locker is the right way.. other people say whacking the ring into the locker assembly with a dead blow hammer is the right way.. other people heats the ring to 200F and freezed the locker assembly.. other people use the bolts to drive the ring into the locker body (although some people say this is not a good idea as it could deform the locker assembly flange where the ring rests... Thanks!
Ok personally I feel like it all depends on the situation and how tight the ring gear is to the carrier. In this case is wasn’t overly tight so a few hits with a dead blow was all it needed. I don’t ever like pressing them on is the right way cause I had a ring gear shatter once and just never have done it since. Now preheating the ring gear is the right way for sure when it is overly tight. Hope that all makes sense lol
What part number for locker and install kit did you use?
RD158 for the locker and then LM104948 / LM104911A for the bearings
Needed this. Thank you
Mine has a brown wire for drl how should I wire that? Or do I have to? Mine round lights is what I mean. I haven’t gotten them in yet on my 93 yj.
How did you get up travel clearance for upper links. I’m running into hitting the cross member the stock mounts to
Stock tank.
I notched mine
@@KBWheelin that’s what I’m gonna have to do also. Was just slightly worried how integral it would be with the shock towers putting stress right in that area. But in order to not have to notch it my belly height would be like 26”. Like you said in one of your videos it’s a lot of give and take. How’s the anti squat on your setup?
@ccasson19 I’ve done it a few different ways on different builds. I’ve removed it and put dom across farther back down the frame rails. I had one build I removed it completely but that one haded a rear bumper that was welded to the rails. I don’t remember what this build calculated out to on the anti squat I think it was 90 percent but don’t remember lol plus I raised the ride height and in with the clovers which effects it too but it performs great.
@@KBWheelin thanks for the info. Never done this before and your videos have been a huge help
This is the best video I've ever seen about suspension triangulation. I totally get it now! Thanks for posting it! I'm scratch designing and building my next RC chassis and was hoping not to need a panhard bar.
Hey all, great video man. Thanks, I have a question. The air controller box that comes with the locker.. will it be able to be hooked up to a different onboard air supply and work correctly? I want to be able to use an onboard for filling tires as well
Very helpful thanks for posting
What type of steel did you use?
DOM
What about positioning of the truss. In regards to pinion angle. How do you know the truss is in the right position? Im asking because i meed to install a truss on my dana 35 for my tj.
Pinion angle is set thru the link arms.
@@KBWheelin so what do you align your truss with, as far as reference point?
@dabrownconservative7843 I guess it really depends on the truss I am using. If it’s cut for that specific axle I even the spacing on the front and rear. If it’s a universal truss I mock everything up with my pinion angle set then level the truss and burn it it. Hopefully that makes sense
Do you have the Yukon puller? It works pulling off the pinion bearing?
I have a different brand clam shell puller but it’s the same thing and yes it works great
This is the best sterling build video I've seen yet. Thank you!
Thank you!
Thank you for making this video, well done. It sure would be nice of ARB to give the option. Gotta bitch about something haha.
Which pitman arm did you end up using?
I ended up using a stock arm
Hey!!!
Heard a lot of good things about those Patagonias
Been loving them for sure
Nice! Love it when a plan comes together.
Thank you so much for explaining the notch reverse thread, had no idea. What amp setting do you use for these heim links? What setting would you use for heim tie rods?
No problem. I’m pretty sure with these links in particular I was running at 140 amps but it all comes down to the thickness of tube your using
Thank you for the video. I ordered a couple off of rock auto and they were a little to big. Can you please share the amazon link.
I put it in the description
You skipped the first part about how to get the axle shafts out I am having a hard time getting the clips out of the axles
This is just how to remove a lunchbox locker from a carrier. As far as removing the c clips Remove center pin. Each side of locker consists of 2 ratcheting sleeves. Slide them apart and push wheel/axle shaft inwards. C-clip will come out between the two.
My cyber truck could do that with ease 😂
🤣
And then be out of power 20 minutes after lol
@@Omletio 🤣🤣🤣 💀
Where did you buy the bracket for the compressor??
Link should be in the video description. It’s from motobilt.com
Hey dude, nice install video! Just wondering how its going with the self tappers? Any issues to be aware of?
Still holding great. No issues
I have a dana 50 and replaced carrier and ring and pinion. I have endplay in the pinion after tightening fully, should it be shimmer behind the outer pinion besring race?
No shims behind the outer race. There go behind the inner race our behind the bearing on the pinion head. Did you start with the oe shim stack?
Yeah, I went back in with the same shim thickness between the pinion head and the inner bearing. There were no shims under either pinion race though.
I now have .035" of end play on the pinion fully tight. It never gets tight enough to set rolling torque.
@@Gregmcd10 there should be non under the races you run either behind the inner race or behind the pinion bearing not both. You have the crush sleep removed for set up correct? Or are you on final assembly?
I have the sleeve in. Wouldn't that change the pinion depth on that side though?
Very cool video thanks, is it possible to remove without taking it out of the axle housing?
It is but it’s a giant pain. Way easier to deal with on a bench plus depending on gear ratio the center pin might not clear the ring gear
😃 P R O M O S M
Do you want the mount on the axle as wide as possible for better stability?
A major reason is adding strength thru triangulation.
There is a lot of reasons it’s a good idea and things it effects but the short answer is yes.
Put a 50 in my Comanche using an Artic truss and machined the knuckles for TMR hi steer arms. I’ll have it on the road eventually lol. What size tire are you running on the 50’s you use? Appreciate the video
That’s super cool I love Comanches! I’m on 40s
You should do a longer video on how the suspension set up on lime time is working. I’m using you build videos as kind of a how to on my yj build. Looks good though
Yeah I have been tossing around the idea of doing a kinda walk around video on the build so that’s not a bad idea thanks! Awesome good luck on your build!
Thank you for making this YJ series. Just found your channel doing research for my own YJ crawler project. I was feeling overwhelmed that I was goi g to have to spend a fortune on a kit which would have been impossible for me to do on a disabled vets fixed (and very low) income. I now feel like with some universal parts it’s something obtainable for me. Thank you again
Great video, keep putting them out! Like the way you break it down.
Thank you! Really appreciate that!
Brilliant video, such a huge help. Front and rear lockers are independant of each other now.
Excellent video!!! I wish I would have seen this prior to installing a gland nut! QUESTION PLEASE! So I'm in the middle of this exact install. Got a great pattern drive and coast. I got the football on drive side and I would say the coast side looks a little like a feather shape. I would say nearly identical to yours. -Patterns are centered. -Pinion bearing preload is 20-22 inch lbs. Avg B/L is .008. . -Pinion depth is .028 .002 B/L variation runout on teeth which I attribute to the phosphate coating on the new gears. I've made sure to mark the location of the dial indicator base on the housing and take the B/L measurement closest to the same location / angle possible each time on the teeth. New Ford E-lock Carrier which has .001 runout. New Yukon 4.88s. All new Timken bearings and races. No noise on drive whatsoever, but I've got tiny, faint noise on deceleration. I'm thinking I should increase the preload to the end of spec at 35 in/lbs as I suspect it's unloading a little causing the pattern to change on the coast side. This is a daily, not a wheeler so trying to make her quiet as possible. I'd really love your input on this.
So two things I would say first 1 have you already been driving around on them? If so leave them cause they wear in and you don’t want to make changes on them after driving you want to complete the break in proses and leave them in my opinion. 2 aftermarket gear sets are known for being noisy in different ways depending on on the brand I have installed Yukon gears and everything was perfect yet they had a noticeable noise on the freeway compared to my motive gears.
Thanks so much for replying! I put about 14 miles on them slow and easy under 45mph as I was trying to complete the first break in/heat cycle so the phosphate coating is about gone. I'm definitely thinking this a gear quality issue given your opinion and other's I've read. I'm going to send these back and try a set of Motive's. I've installed a few Yukon sets in the past and they didn't whine on coast like these do. This isn't the first time I've built a differential, but it is the first time I've done a set of 4.88 Yukon's. I really appreciate the input sir. I've also noticed the factory B/L spec is .010-.015". Obviously we want to go with the gear manufacture's recommendation which for these is .006"-.010". I'm sure the pattern would move towards the heel with that much B/L for this set of gears. Thank You again for your time and advice sir. Happy Wheelin! @@KBWheelin
Do u keep the shims on the axle side ?
Thank you!
Well done Sir.
A new video! 🎉🎉🎉
There is a version with like 3m foam on the backside that sandwiches between body and armor.... would that version be preferable or no?
I actually don’t think I have seen any like that.. I have always ran bolt on panels
@@KBWheelin it wtilp bolts not has a layer of vl o d3d cell foam
I hate stick on additions. Tape always comes unstuck.
@@kevinunger433 true... like good for a dry week n then shit