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You are very welcome. Have a fabulous weekend.

gramps can drive wherever wants to at whatever speed he wants to. Even droning his tractor to town in the morning for coffee, just to hold up traffic. Just to piss people like you off.

Thanks. I couldn't remember Old timers is real.

Somebody used to make a nice vented cover. But can't find them anymore.

I had to richen it up slightly by turning both air fuel screws out slightly. Best way to ensure a proper mixture is doing an idle drop procedure. I have a video on yhe process. It is on a different bike but the process is the same on any carburetor. I would link it but I am on my cell phone and am hopelessly lacking in phone skills. Iirc I think the name was, "setting the perfect idle mixture." Anyway, thanks for watching, appreciate it greatly. Best of luck.

There's a tab on the cup that fits into a slot in the cam.

Yes.

It was a great time.

Looking at a dynatek 3000i to replace that Ultima POS.

No problem my friend. Thanks for watching and good luck on the dparklers.

I tend to lump them into the same category as all the rest of the substandard equipment that was being thrown together at the time. They were better than Iltra ORLor CMC but just barely. We had quite a few around here. Ignition system problems and the like. Good thing everything you needed I could order directly from drag specialities. Not really a huge fan of clones. Best thing to come out of that time was them getting their financing yanked and sold to Polaris.

Thanks 42 was stock and already too lean for even a stock bikes. Ended up with the standard 45. Which I always use as a starting point. Then after warming bike to operating temp. I do an idle drop counties how many turns in or out the afternoon screw ends up being. Remember no less than half turn in from seated(pilot rich). Nor more than 4 turns out(,pilot lean). Wouldn't pull to redline with a 175. Pulled great with a 185. Thanks for the pointers. Appreciate the comment. Have a great wrrkend.

Yeah okay sure. Ecpert.

I'll send it later on tooday.

@@russellbarron6775 ty

Benny, shoot me an email at vintagemoto.rb@gmail.com.

Yeah, I know that now. It was terrible.

oh, hey there thanks for watching, greatly appreiated. Sorry to hear of your troubles. These things happen though, plastic and rubbbber doesn't last forever. This was a salvage bike that needed a lot of love and still does. Just got done doing the top-end gaskets. Bike was co ered in oil and gunge. SLowly going back together with it. Anyway, thanks again and have a great rest of teh week. RIde safely and most importantly have fun. Take care.

Tahnsks for watching. I appreciate the comment. It is my pleasure to do them. Anyway, take care ride safely and ost important have fun riding it. Have a great week. HOpefully I will have this thing ready shortly, getting to be my favorite time of year to ride here coming up. Not too hot, a little chill in the air, where it doesn't feel like you're riding in a blast furnace. Have a good time and thanks again.

Thaks for watching. Get this line though I have heard this on more than one occasion. Me:"when was the last time you checked yoru ire pressure?" Cutomer: " the last time you did a service on it." Me:"t aht was 2 years ago." See what I mean. Just keep up on the air pressure. And again. thanks for the comment and for watching. Take care.

DC police bikes first year fuel injection . Fi won't shut off like a carb will rebuilt 20 in a month. Those cops killed those bikes.

Yeah,we get them every so often. We have a lot of sand here, which somehow makes it's way directly on the tip of the float needle. The culprit is usually from using petrol from a can. Sorry to hear about your mishap.

a few things to looke for, make sure the vacuum line from teh carb to the petcock is hooked up at both ends.If that is all fine, chnaces are the diaprhragm in the petcock has a hole in it. At that point you can pull the 4 screws off the diaphragm plate. THere will be a spring in there. Carefully pul the diaprhragm out and put the spring on the opposite side. This in eseennse turns you vacuum petcok into a normal petcok. You will have to remmeber to turn you gas on and off at this point. YOu don't need to remeove the petcock to do this. Simply loosen nut(22mm or 7/8") spin petcock around to gain access to 4 phillips head screws.

@russellbarron6775 ty brother I'll try this u have been very helpful to me have a blessed day

@bennygregory2629 anytime my friend

Hey I just have regular petcock no vacuum lines going to it but did get rid of the voes and I cleaned petcock I can get gas to flow from petcock freely but when I hook it back up to the carburetor get no gas at all from tank

Okay, well float needle is probably stuck. Pull the float bowl off the carb and jiggle the gloat up and down to see if you get even a dribble. If not pull the fuel line, pull the carb and try to squirt some carb cleaner through inlet You might nerd to remove the float and needle to look for sny obstructions. If the bike sat gor awhile probably eoiluldnt be s bad idea tonclran the jets. Hit me up and let me know what you gind.​@bennygregory2629

45 pilot, 185 main. Stock needle with 2 shims under it. That was when it was mid 90s temp. Now that it's dropped 20 degrees probability need a little fatter. Thanks for watching.

@@russellbarron6775 good to know.

You are very welcome. Thanks for watching.

Yeah. Only real problem with that is most people have no clue what "light coat" even means.

@@russellbarron6775 half a tube of it, so half the tube squeezes out into the engine and clogs major lube circuits. That’s what they “know” lmao 🤣

It really is a goofy design to begin with. In my mind. There is no reason to even need a quick release on a hose like that. Sorry to hear about the troubles with your wife's car.

Thank you.

Thanks for the heads up. Must have been after I blew the mic out.

Thats exactly what it looks like; what a pain

He did these 3 years ago. It immediately blew on stst6 on lift. Went and bought a brand new road glide. Now had 50k on it. This thing is getting sold as soon as I'm done. Thanks for watching have a great weekend.

Nah. Guys selling once I get it done. I have put in allot of them over-the-counter years. I always use the S,,&s travel limiters for that. Cheap and work great. Before they made them hd had screaming eagle solids conversion which the sane thing. You just let them have a little oil cushion when adjusting them. Thanks for watchong.

Used to do a Lotta 88s with satell cylinders. Back when they were heavy ductile iron lumps. User STD raised port heads on some. Rippers.

All you have is a long tube which is on. The reserve has no tube and sits about an inch or more below the on tube. Entirely possible for it to clogged. I would want you to check your cap for proper venting. You can do this by sticking it to your mouth and try blowing through it and sucking through it. I don't like doing either of those and neither should yo. I use a 1/16" drill bit and drill a few holes around the rim of the plastic.

@@russellbarron6775 I actually bought a new gas cap recently as my old one was defiantly not venting properly. This one is fine. The petcock must be the culprit. Just wasn't sure of the circuit (gas path) on how one side could be blocked and the other (reserve) isn't. I'm sure when I tear it apart and see it it will make sense.

Yeah, I have had a few of them do weird stuff. Had one once that the valve(plastic) wasn't fully drilled on one side. In that case it was the reserve that didn't work. Makes it kinda hard when you run out of gas and know that you still have enough in the tank best of luck with it and keep me posted as to what you find out.

Wasn't my bike. Guy put less than 8k on in 1 8 years and it sat for 2 years. My personal bikes get changed every year but I'm rough on stuff. It seems like no matter how many times you tell them at least every 2vyears they ignore it. So. I always include it in a major service all they pay for is a fresh bottle brake fluid.

Thanks.

Thank you for 👀. Best of luck on the bike .

Thank you kindly, greatly appreciated.

3000

2000

2000

Thanks man.

YEs, the 88 had no accelerator pump at all, so the needle taper was pretty thin giving it a rich mixture at about 1/4 throttle.

@@russellbarron6775 I think CV performance has a needle they call their velocity needle that is supposed to be the same or very similar to the 88 sporty needle.

I just installed one last night. You just cut it off. Connect to nothing. If you have a race application you can ground it causing the advance to come on faster This is all in the instructions online is how I found it

ou can get a screw in hose barb that has a 1/16_27 thread drill hole in your manifold tap it with a 1/16-27 pipe tap and screw the barb in the manifold. Use whtie pipe dope on the threads. I used to pick up the barbs at NAPA, but these days you can't really tell who has them. HD used to sell them. THere is usually a dimple on the manifold where it would go. Even if there is no dimple you can pick a good place to put it on ht manifold. I included a link so you can see what it looks like, kinda pricy to me, but at least you can get the idwww.ebay.com/itm/313880282214?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&srsltid=AfmBOooMkIsjCwkC12v20jx0EiYgA6GCoYWWPvMHs8VdjRoWGZ1u7Xw8N8Eea of what to look for.

@@olehansen6655 sorry I didn’t read it correctly. Do what I said if don’t use the voes

We used to do that with stock type modules as well. On certain applications we would use sportster moudules on big twins and then ground the voes. Or even adjust the voes vacuum setting by removing the epoxy out of the back then using a multimeter and a handheld vacuum pump you can turn the screw that is nside the voes to change the switch setting. Cnat' remembe the exact settings, I want to say a bigtwin voes is set at 8lbs and the sportster is set at 6 lbs. But that could be backwards.

@@russellbarron6775 i got it up and running now but damn my front exhaust pipe turns blue, guess to rich mixture and stupid spark plugs and now also a rattle/ticking sound from top end at front cylinder, isnt life great.

wtih the dual plug heads I have personally ran as low as 10 degrees. sounds retarded(pun intended). On the dyno the bike picked up a few ponies, started like butter(easy) and was generally happy with those numbers That being said, I always thought those numbers were crazy to run using the convential wisdom fo slightly less timing, like say high 20s advance. But, during a discusson with a colleague from HD racing department, he suggested I at least try really going full retard(pun again). did and it worked. I still tried wanted tor bring in a fast advance curve, bu toverall timing was down. If that makes any sense. For the final pun, think of it like this, you want to go full aretard as uickly as possible. Anyway, thank for watching ad best of luck with Shovel.

@@russellbarron6775 TY for the info. Maybe I should try 28 degrees to start with? What does the dual plugs have to do with timing advance?

@@tomconte1765 Because you have effectively given the cylinder head spark flame front better propagation travel. It allows you to run a lot less time. I would start at 28 and dial it back a few degrees until you feel drop off then go back to where it felt perfect. a good place to figure it out is either on the dyno or at the drag strip. The darg strip is usually cheaper than paying some guy to run it on a dyno, and it is a lot more fun. You can go to a test and tune night/day and make as many runs as you want to. Paying attention to your mph through the taraps, from your time ticket. You basically make a run, get your time slip, dial the timing back or up make another run, paying particular attention to mph changes. when doing this method of tuning, your actual time e means nothing. MPH is all you care about. That gives you a an idea about how much hp increase you make with each little change. For instance, say your bike pulls 105mph in the 1/4, you came back and took 2 degrees out, then went back and did 10mph YOu know you gained power by that. It is actually a better indicator of performance than a dyno. I say that because I have had bikes dyno-tuned in the past, took them out and rode them and they didn't pull as hard as they did before. I had a Buel race bike went on vacation and came back just in time to go to the race track(road race) I had done nothing to the bike since the last time I was there. Went out in practice and lost 3 seconds a lap since the last time. Bike felt lazy. I pulled my jets, they had magically changed 2 weeks prior. My timing was off too. Someone had been fiddling with my bike. I dropped by the shop that Saturday. The dyno guy in our shop asked how good the bike ran. I knew something was up. He then ponies up, I gave you another 5hp. No, you cost me 3 seconds a lap, bike went from top performer to something that couldn't pull a greasy string out of a cat's ass. Anyway, tuning-wise, a lot of the time it is trial and error. You can either accept what you have, or keep going to make it slightly better than the other guys stuff. So, basically paly with it a little bit until it is acceptable to you.

@@tomconte1765 That was a little wordy , try 38 and then try 36. basically have fun doing it.

@@russellbarron6775 ty

My pleasure. Thanks for watching.

Most definitely l it is. Working with what I got. Had 4 carb bodies 1 I can't get parts for a 90c body. 2 99c bodies that were screwed by someone drilling out air fuel screws. And this one, which cane off a running bike. I need another carb. But it ain't in the budget. So we make do with what we have.

@@russellbarron6775 one of my "extended kids", told me about what he refered to as a junk collection...Wisconsin..Michigan maybe....I'll ask him where it was. Let me get back to you

We'll see if he messages me back. What he described was an old warehouse that the owner doesn't visit anymore

@@russellbarron6775 I subscribed so I can attempt to keep up with ya.

@@charliejones7574 APpreciate it,. I used to have bundles of these carbs and a few S&S g, E B, and D carbs with manifolds. But had a major stroke a few years back and most of that stuff is long gone, along with a large portion of tooling and other parts. T Those damn mdedcal bills and not knowing if I would actually ever ride or much less work on anything again, made it necessary to pare down quite a bit.

Yeah, I worked at a Ford dealer ejlhen they tried a cv carb way back when. What a fiasco that was. Not a day went by without customers complaining of drivabity issues. Good times it was a learning experience. Thanks for 👀 and commenting.