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Hello Gavin, In your last answer in this comment flow you wrote that you met some health issue. So first of all, I wish you a quick recovery. I have watched all your videos and greatly appreciated them ! Now I just ordered a "Complete airframe Sonex B kit" with the 80 hp Aerovee engine. Unfortunately, the lead time is now very long (16 to 20 weeks !). So I've plenty of time to complete my workshop installation ! I leave in France, now in Les Vosges, and I'd be interested to exchange with you when you'll be available. I wish you the better, Francis

Hi Gavin, where are you!???

If you haven't already figured out the baffle trimming issue, this is how I would do it. Using sheet aluminum, make a template of only the top center portion of the cowling that matches the curve of the cowling. You will be able to see how to trim the baffle without interference from the sides of the cowling. Trim the aluminum baffle until there is a 0.75 to 1-inch clearance between the top edge of the baffle and the template. Then use the 2-inch baffle material as previously suggested so that your trimming does not have to be precise.

Use the 2 in flat baffling material, instead of the Sonex supplied and then you have a margin of error

Smart move on the catch can, because the stuff that collects in the cans is nasty

Try putting paper clips on the alum baffle. Place the cowling back on, and it will push the paper clips down to the correct height.

Just following on from @anthonystrawbridge and his fine suggestions. I was pondering the trimming of the impossible to see baffle. Could you 3D print a spacer, or multiple spacers that sit in various places on the upper edge of the aluminium sheet with a sliding indicator built into them? Sort of a spot profile gauge where when you take off the upper cowl the spot gauges all indicate how far they’ve pressed down. Then approach the critical seal gap in increments as you get near to the desired gap? I’m sure this sounds much easier from the ‘General’s Armchair’ than it would be in reality … I was starting to think the baffle you’ve built was going to be such a good seal that the vent hole wasn’t going to be big enough to equalise the air pressure 😂

Do you think the small gap that you covered is there for the purpose of evacuating heat from the exposed exhaust pipe?

Will the inner rim of the prop hub spinner spacer spin with the prop? If so, will the inner ridge that you made to rest the cowling rub on the cowling as the spinner spacer spins?

You're supposed to heavily oil the blue nipple when installing it to not damage the rubber part of the hose. Also make sure all manufactured hoses are fully flushed with mineral spirits and compressed air so there is no remaining residue or any loose flaps of rubber possibly restricting flow.

Summit Racing Parts here in the USA supplies millions of hot rodders testing and developing these hoses ( manufacturers). John did a great going with this discount material: I compared it to my favorite supplier ( Eaton Aeroquip a local aerospace hose manufacturer faa pma rated). I'm pretty happy with this pricing, John did a good job sourcing a lower cost hose with the added benefit of hot rodder race track reviews. But yeah, Im a Parker Hannifin and Eaton fan but seriously the cost isn't warranted with the Sonex.

Why on earth would they suggest filing away a portion of the rocker when a new pushrod fitting is the correct answer? Thats ridiculous. Good on you for not taking the bad advice, Gavin. I also agree with you that the bleed nipple should be on top. I dont know how you would bleed air from the line if its on the bottom. If it were me and I wanted to install wheel pants, I'd edit the wheel pants to accommodate the ability to bleed the system, not the other way around.

Stumbled into this, nice work well explained, look forward to the next!

Given the long history that Sonex has with the VW engines one would think that they have worked out any errors in the design and are able to deliver a complete and correct engine kit consistently. Based on issues that you have seen this does not seem to be the case. I love the aircraft but I am inclined to install a factory built engine.

That a BS reply from Sonex. They need to do the right thing and refund your money or send the correct parts. They also need to take those pushrods out of inventory. An engine failure could cause a catastrophic incident.

I'd be willing to bet the flexible brake hose between the caliper and hard brake line has broken down internally and is acting as a one-way valve. A common issue with older brake hose. Disconnect the hose and see if the piston will push back in. If it does, you know the hose needs to be replaced. It's a relatively easy fix, hopefully.

I love it, Gavin. You're definitely getting your money's worth out of your 3D printer. When I was about 19 I purchased a car from my grandfather for $1. It needed pretty much all of the steering bushings replaced, but I didn't know that before I tried to drive it home (about a 5-hour drive). It was unnerving. But once I'd replaced the bushings it drove quite nicely.

Nice solution! I managed to get the braided lines in with a VERY tight tape wrap.

3 words Gavin, brilliant, brilliant brilliant, well done…very clever and you thought completely outside the box, good on you...also congratulations on 500 hundred subscribers

Nice looking panel!

Now that the conductor length is factored to determine minimum gauge diameter we can apply a safety margin by increasing the size which provides increased circuit integrity in respect to losses which occur off paper in the actual aircraft. An example of a simple circuit might be as follows: Battery Bus (+) to Breaker Switch to Load at wing measures 18 feet. And the Load is grounded (-) at a ground bus (-) located at the instrument panel 16 feet long. So the Conductor Length is a total of 18'+16' thus 34 feet is the conductor length in this dc circuit. While a chart or formula provides the minimum gauge wire size we need to consider the circuit breaker sizes available: The wire gauge diameter must be sufficiently greater than the circuit breaker rating. In my opinion it should be sized 50% greater than the actual circuit load at minimum. ✌🏻👶🏻🚬 Just my .02 cents (2/100 of a USD)

Perfect example of 98% done only 20% more to go! Great job. Interesting to see the engine fired up and taxi tests.

Good work !

Thanks for the vid, Gavin. Your airplane is going to be Awesome! 👍

Best CZcams video series on how to build an aircraft kit from scratch. Hoping that you would add the last few videos I think to see the whole plane. I'm learning this for the first time all the way from Chennai, India. Thank you :)

Beautiful work!

Purr-fecto!

Love the SonexB logo, well done. Tom R. SNB0035

It's looking very nice Gavin. Well done!

très beau travail, bravo

Very very very nicely done Gav. I've been binging out on the air-cooled VW engine flight engine development. Interestingly, I heard a slight metalic tink noise when the engine (camshaft) was rotated and couldn't help but recall the noise you had described some time back. This was caused by the solid lifters dropping down from the case bore onto the camshaft consistent with lobe movement and lubricant in the bore. Im on the fence but leaning towards the opinion that drilling and tapping a vacuum port at each intake manifold and having two reasonably accurate vacuum gauges in the cockpit may be worth the effort. The idea is that one eould be accustomed to watching the two gauges pointers bouncing around at hot and cold idle speed. Apparently, an inexpensive dial type gauge can indicate discrepancies related to valve components. Observing the normal operating sets the stage for identifying potential problems without delay. 💛

It's looking very nice, Gavin! Nice job on the 3D modeling. And I'm impressed by your 3D printer's resolution - everything looks very crisp. Well done!

Excellent! Good balance. I'd probably add indicators either audible or visual to signal a few things but not really necessary. There's just a few warnings: Id probably install a heavier spring to the waste gate dump and set up the boost for slightly greater than 40" manifold pressure so an alarm could be useful for the two minute 40" limitation. I'd prefer a blinking or even a solid red LED indicator for low altitude or MEA. Probably a noise signal for low oil pressure set to 15-19 psi, and an oil temp LED at 225-230°f or so. Finally, Id add both: an yellow LED at 420 CHT and a red LED with buzzer at 450°f CHT. To me all these things converge quickly at precisely the wrong time and I want to be more outside the plane than inside. Truthfully, the MGL VSI tape leaves me wanting a traditional instrument and I can't help but look for the good old AHI/ASI/HSI gyroscopic turn and bank indicator even though the MGL is more than adequate. Just my .02 cents ( one hundred pennies (cent) in a USD). My gosh that was winded. Cant wait to do the engine run ups and ground runs. ✌🏻👶🏻🚬👍🏻

love your 3D printed stuff, and the quality of the print itself looks quite sharp as in It appaers you cant see the print segments. I thought about a 3D printer but dont know too much about them, so just put in off. i also thought about a gray panle, with white writing, think that will look fantastic.

Velcro….😊

No magnets….😮

Excellent panel Gavin. I am also going to use aluminum "sub panels" for switches, etc. BobDz

Looks just like what I've seen scratch built on a few Zenith. Several were fabricated from mild steel with a cross link / torque tube similar to dual carburetor linkage. I'm once again starting to think about scratch building the legacy model yetz I like the rag and tube of the Sonrtaii. Sonar trail (damn spell checker misspells everything)✌🏻👶🏻🚬

It’s never boring….always interesting to see your progress and the methods you use. I think the videos for the cowling fit up should be fun to watch!

Good Day Sir. Would you be able to post the make of the hand brake on the control stick. I was thinking of changing my braking system to that type as well?

Sir, I must say I always enjoy your videos as they are quite informative. I find it unfortunate these days that critical parts that you pay a lot of money for not only for the part but shipping costs as well are sent out prior to being inspected. Quality insurance is definitely lacking more and more these days

I really like the way it turned out, Gavin. Nice job!

Well done on the retro fit of the throttle quadrant, and not sure how I will do mine yet.

Nice solution. Please use lots of threadlocker! 🙂

Seen lots of experienced engine guys struggle with Aerovee.

Those fairings could be a nice little project made from fibreglass. Use the parts as forms or use blocks of foam.

Good job I look here as well as Facebook you rather behind on uploading to it

I’d be worried about skinning my knee on the friction nut. 💡 Would a larger diameter wheel that protrudes through the panel work? Might be easier to operate to. 🧐

I just pulled out my throttle quadrant. The bolt for the knob is a 1/4"-20 (1/4 inch diameter with 20 threads per inch). Its a very common size here in the US. I love the engineering going into this. Very cool stuff! Can't wait to see the completed parts.

Excellent stuff. I wasn't prepared for all these mods coming down the pipe lately. Toying with some personal concerns and best practices; considerations regarding the sticky nature of slides under pressure at the gate valve I'm only left wondering about the quality and length of the push pull cable. Having a strong, well routed - direct as possible, elriminating any excess bends, along with plenty of security attachments is important. I really like the push pull design and the utilization of the aero conversion throttle as a lever or sorta bell crank because it should increase authority nicely. The oil modification has me at a loss because I'm on the outside regarding oil temperatures, thermal viscosity, vari-therms, bypass modes and such...etc etc and on and on. Great thing about homebuilders is how they share their tech. I like the panel support stiffeners and attachments but straight away was visualizing flanged lightening holes or bolstering horizontally, flanging or bolstering triangles. Heading into fifty f below freezing here😊