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The Surfer's Journal
United States
Registrace 8. 02. 2020
The Surfer’s Journal is a vivid, authoritative, and independent print publication that delivers longform storytelling on the people, culture, travel and art of surfing. Coupled with premium construction, TSJ is peerless in its quality and content.
Subscribers to the printed magazine enjoy six issues a year as well as digital features, complete access to the magazine's archives, discounts on merchandise, back issues, fine-art prints, and hardbound books. TSJ is a surf trip found nowhere else. The Surfer's Journal on CZcams is a supplementary, motion-visual addition to our printed content.
Become a TSJ member here: www.surfersjournal.com/memberships/start-your-membership/
Subscribers to the printed magazine enjoy six issues a year as well as digital features, complete access to the magazine's archives, discounts on merchandise, back issues, fine-art prints, and hardbound books. TSJ is a surf trip found nowhere else. The Surfer's Journal on CZcams is a supplementary, motion-visual addition to our printed content.
Become a TSJ member here: www.surfersjournal.com/memberships/start-your-membership/
Robert Trujillo on Metallica, Playing Bass, and the Connection Between Surfing and Music
Robert Trujillo grew up on the westside of Los Angeles, where he found music, skateboarding, and surfing at a young age. He first rose to prominence as the bassist for Suicidal Tendencies, which he played in from 1989 to 1995. He was a member of Ozzy Osbourne’s band for a number of years starting in the late ’90s. Since 2003, he’s been the bassist for Metallica. He played-and still plays-with the funk metal supergroup Infectious Grooves.
A goofyfoot, he gets in the water regularly, weaving wave riding into his heavy touring schedule. He’s also a husband and a father.
In this episode of Soundings, Trujillo talks with Jamie Brisick about the moment his life as a musician changed forever, the ebbs and flows of a passion-driven career, the importance of establishing a work ethic, Metallica world tours, Ozzy Osbourne, finding inspiration, playing in front of massive crowds, and staying grounded.
Become a TSJ member at surfersjournal.com.
Produced by Jonathan Shifflett.
Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).
Feature image by Brian Bielmann.
A goofyfoot, he gets in the water regularly, weaving wave riding into his heavy touring schedule. He’s also a husband and a father.
In this episode of Soundings, Trujillo talks with Jamie Brisick about the moment his life as a musician changed forever, the ebbs and flows of a passion-driven career, the importance of establishing a work ethic, Metallica world tours, Ozzy Osbourne, finding inspiration, playing in front of massive crowds, and staying grounded.
Become a TSJ member at surfersjournal.com.
Produced by Jonathan Shifflett.
Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).
Feature image by Brian Bielmann.
zhlédnutí: 1 331
Video
Carissa Moore on Staying True to Herself, the Realities of Pro Surfing, and Growing Up in Waikiki
zhlédnutí 657Před 21 dnem
Five-time world champion Carissa Moore started surfing at age 5 with her dad in the hallowed waters of Waikiki. As an amateur, she won 11 national titles. In 2008, at the age of 16, Moore became the youngest winner of the Triple Crown of Surfing. She qualified for the WCT in 2010, and won world titles in 2011, 2013, 2015, 2019, and 2021, with dozens of event wins along the way. She was the firs...
Mark Cunningham on Pipeline, Bodysurfing, and His Heaviest Experiences As a North Shore Lifeguard
zhlédnutí 4,5KPřed měsícem
Mark Cunningham, aka "The Human Fish," is hailed as one of the greatest bodysurfers of all time. He grew up in Hawaii, became a lifeguard in the mid-’70s, and for nearly 30 years guarded primarily at Ehukai Beach Park, with a view straight into Pipeline’s barrel. Through the ’70s, ’80s, and ’90s, Cunningham won nearly every bodysurfing event he entered. But, as Cunningham would be the first to ...
Harrison Roach in “Proper by Any Measure”
zhlédnutí 28KPřed měsícem
Roach’s surfing is mannered, refined, and unflappable. While grounded in the helmsmanship of heavy tankers, his approach also deftly ports over to all type of craft, pits, and walls. “Long before he won a world title in 2022,” Michael Adno writes in TSJ 33.3, “Harrison Roach was known as a surfer’s surfer, admired for balancing a career that was made from equal parts curiosity, creativity, and ...
Surfing is Losing it's Greatest Generation of Handshapers
zhlédnutí 12KPřed měsícem
Through the lens of Robin Prodanovich shaping his last board (around the 40,000th of his career), Todd Prodanovich reports on how surfing is losing its greatest generation of high-production handshapers, and what will happen to the culture and practice of building surfboards once they’re gone. “At some point in the not-too-distant future, we will be living in a world in which the greatest gener...
Karina Rozunko in “Title TK”
zhlédnutí 3,2KPřed 3 měsíci
“Spontaneity is a guiding principle of Karina Rozunko’s surfing,” author Kyle DeNuccio writes in our current issue. “At Malibu she improvises waves with maximalist energy. By contrast, most of her surfing contemporaries seem focused on paring their style down to minimalism, bordering on conservatism, with no movement wasted. Rozunko seems to approach waves without letting the traditional surf-s...
Soup Jockeys | The Finless Surfing of Jordan Rodin & Cinematography of Billy Cervi
zhlédnutí 3,9KPřed 3 měsíci
In TSJ 33.2’s “Soup Jockeys,” author Jamie Brisick tracks Western Australia-based finless surfer Jordan Rodin and photographer Billy Cervi’s tag team approach to making hay in the slop. From early experimentation to gaining Derek Hynd’s mentorship, the duo continues down a frictionless path. “The biggest attraction for me is not having to generate your own speed,” Rodin says. “It’s flat out fro...
"Breaking Everything" with Artist Fritz Chesnut
zhlédnutí 718Před 4 měsíci
In TSJ 33.2’s “Impact Zone,” author Alex Weinstein profiles artist and surfer Fritz Chesnut. “On a molecular level,” Weinstein writes, “water is the ultimate generator and defiler of the work. Chesnut is there too, of course, trowel and spray can in hand, but he positions himself as both a director of and an observer to the process. On a deeper, intuitive level, the paintings are subtly cued to...
William Finnegan on Barbarian Days, Conflict Reporting, Traveling, and Finding an Audience
zhlédnutí 2,6KPřed 5 měsíci
Award-winning author and The New Yorker staff writer William Finnegan came to surfing early while growing up between Hawaii and Southern California. He helped bring surf writing, as a genre, to the literary fore in 1992 with the publication of his two-part essay “Playing Doc’s Games” in The New Yorker, which chronicled both his and “Doc” Renneker’s pursuits at Ocean Beach, San Francisco. His 20...
Shane Dorian on Todd Chesser and Brock Little, Brushes with Fate, and Jaws
zhlédnutí 1,4KPřed 5 měsíci
A core member of the Momentum Generation and an 11-year veteran of the world tour, Shane Dorian is best known for his big-wave accomplishments over the past 20 years. Born and raised on the Big Island of Hawaii, Dorian received his big-wave education under Brock Little, Todd Chesser, and others after relocating to the North Shore as a teenager. Today, with multiple XXL Awards under his belt and...
Jaleesa Vincent on Taxidermy, Her Band, the Rage Gang, Airs, and Being an Outsider
zhlédnutí 694Před 5 měsíci
Hailing from the Sunshine Coast, Queensland, freesurfer Jaleesa Vincent leads a life deeply immersed in explorative practices of self-expression and connection with nature. If she isn’t hunting for waves, she’s playing music, painting, cooking, writing poetry, and experimenting with taxidermy. Over the past few years, her output has helped define a new generation of paradigmatic Renaissance sur...
Nate Tyler on Filming, Pathways to Success, Shark Encounters, and Art
zhlédnutí 1,1KPřed 5 měsíci
Born and raised in Central California, Nate Tyler eschewed the world of competitive surfing in favor of pursuing the path less trodden as a teenager, building a freesurfing career defined by a steadfast dedication to filming, traveling, and artistic exploration. His profile rose through the aughts and 2010’s, due in no small part to his performance in some of the most cult-classic surf films of...
Jack McCoy on Water Cinematography, Mark Occhilupo, Resisting Repetition, and Soundtracking
zhlédnutí 1,2KPřed 6 měsíci
A preeminent figure in surf filmmaking, Jack McCoy started surfing when his family moved from Los Angeles to Hawaii in 1954. In the 1970s, he began experimenting with film and photography and, in 1976, released his first film, Tubular Swells, produced and directed with Australian photographer Dick Hoole. What followed was a four-decade run filming, directing, and producing classics of the surf ...
Darryl “Flea” Virostko on His Nickname, Fear, His Worst Wipeout, Addiction, and Maverick’s
zhlédnutí 2,3KPřed 6 měsíci
Darryl “Flea” Virostko on His Nickname, Fear, His Worst Wipeout, Addiction, and Maverick’s
Aska Matsumiya on Musical Composition, Simplicity, Piano, and Taking a Year Off to Chase Surf
zhlédnutí 552Před 6 měsíci
Aska Matsumiya on Musical Composition, Simplicity, Piano, and Taking a Year Off to Chase Surf
Gordon “Grubby” Clark on Surfboard Design, Polyurethane, and Blank Monday and the End of Clark Foam
zhlédnutí 5KPřed 6 měsíci
Gordon “Grubby” Clark on Surfboard Design, Polyurethane, and Blank Monday and the End of Clark Foam
Cliff Kapono on Science and Education, Kaiser Bowls, Environmental Activism, and Traditional Craft
zhlédnutí 707Před 6 měsíci
Cliff Kapono on Science and Education, Kaiser Bowls, Environmental Activism, and Traditional Craft
The Steady (R)evolution of Kai Neville
zhlédnutí 1,6KPřed 7 měsíci
The Steady (R)evolution of Kai Neville
Steve Olson on Surf Devotion, Sidewalk Intimacy, the Theatrics of Style, Punk Music, and Dogtown
zhlédnutí 2,6KPřed 7 měsíci
Steve Olson on Surf Devotion, Sidewalk Intimacy, the Theatrics of Style, Punk Music, and Dogtown
Bob McTavish on Vee and the Plastic Machine’s "Swooping" Feeling
zhlédnutí 4,1KPřed 7 měsíci
Bob McTavish on Vee and the Plastic Machine’s "Swooping" Feeling
Coco Ho on Family, The World Tour, Her Twin-fin Fascination, and Getting Waves at Backdoor
zhlédnutí 3,2KPřed 7 měsíci
Coco Ho on Family, The World Tour, Her Twin-fin Fascination, and Getting Waves at Backdoor
On Style With Surf Photographer Jeff Divine
zhlédnutí 916Před 7 měsíci
On Style With Surf Photographer Jeff Divine
Nat Young on Byron Bay, “Magic Sam,” Surfing’s Commercialization, and Crowds
zhlédnutí 8KPřed 7 měsíci
Nat Young on Byron Bay, “Magic Sam,” Surfing’s Commercialization, and Crowds
Photographer Andrew Blauschild's East End
zhlédnutí 10KPřed 7 měsíci
Photographer Andrew Blauschild's East End
Café Racer | Peruvian Surfer Miguel Tudela
zhlédnutí 1,7KPřed 7 měsíci
Café Racer | Peruvian Surfer Miguel Tudela
"Chasing the Wind" | Searching For Waves in The Falkland Islands
zhlédnutí 7KPřed 8 měsíci
"Chasing the Wind" | Searching For Waves in The Falkland Islands
Donald Brink's Surfboard Shaping Philosophy
zhlédnutí 2,1KPřed 9 měsíci
Donald Brink's Surfboard Shaping Philosophy
50 Years of Surf Photography with Jeff Divine
zhlédnutí 4,6KPřed 9 měsíci
50 Years of Surf Photography with Jeff Divine
Richard Kenvin's Obsession with Bob Simmons' Planing Hulls
zhlédnutí 8KPřed 9 měsíci
Richard Kenvin's Obsession with Bob Simmons' Planing Hulls
Just can't tell who these awesome athletes are. Too small
Cake eaters ruin everything.
It's great to hear a voice from my long past. At 70, I grew up in Huntington Beach, knowing all the names. I started surfing in 1963, and by 1973, I started building bikes and created the "California Beach Cruiser" bike in Newport Beach and Huntington Beach, so I have a long relationship with surfing and bikes.
??
Inspiring 👍🏼
This is great. Loved the Ozzy and Lars impressions...
Robert is so cool. Loved listening to this. Thanks TSJ!
Sound and waves are the vibrations we tap into. Listening to music and surfing has been at the center of my universe since a little boy. Thanks Robert for sharing your thoughts!
Arto was such an inspiration for skateboarding when I was a teenager. Fast forward 22 years his photography is extremely inspiring as a photographer. Thanks Arto🤙
Incredible.
Good one. Thanks
Excellent interview 👍🏼 Big Props and Respect to Flea and Santa Cruz 🫡
George had his bits and pieces of of wow aint that briliant like many others but im sorry saying George has been over rated. I love the guy. Chris Brock he has been underrated. Real Chris majic guy.
Don't you love real film the way it looks?????
Don't you love 16MM film even if the F stop was way off indoors
No one rode Kirra, on their backhand in the barrel, in the 90's like NP jr. Class act.
Great interview of a legend that's so humble and authentic. Also being so self aware about life's challenges with a passion to help guide and mentor others going through it. Legend in and out of the water.
"Divine" - a person I never knew personally, but a name on many photos that I was very familiar with as a kid tearing through the latest Surfer Magazine. Thank you Jeff and TSJ for sharing all of the wonderful places that many of us can only dream about!
legends
Rest in peace. the amount of people at your paddle out goes to show how legendary this man truly was.
53 years old?? he looks like he was in great shape. anyone have an idea what happened?
I read heart attack
He was surfing up by the light house, and when he got out of the water he wasn't feeling good at all. His family has a history with heart problems, so a few of his friends started driving him to somewhere (i don't actually know where, but i'd assume either his house or South Hampton hospital) . Right as they were passing the Crows Nest, he had a heart attack. Rest in peace.
@@iwantasprintervan omg
Rest in peace
Sick board!
Rest peacefully.
Inspiring! 👍🏼 Whether we remember specific rides or not...I believe we all have images of those "Magic Moments" burned into our minds that keep us coming back for more.
RIP my guy. Glad we enjoyed one last surf
He got told “no picture” and his response is take more? And completely exploit the place?
totally agree with everything said. that's what drew me to his content right away!
He is special
12:47 what track is this ? Ty
George Greenough shreds
Creating a new type of carbon stringer for better rebound.
GO HOME OLD SUEFER! MANY...MANY GREAT AND NEAR GREAT WAVE RADERS!
Ending about the 1:11:00 mark where Mr. Clark was describing the differential inherent strength in the blank caused by gravity - I have noticed this too and thought of it as a kind of crust as in a loaf of bread; where the crust is much harder and more dense and thus stronger than the softer interior foam. I didn't know that crust effect was due to the effects of gravity. But makes me wonder if they ever tried spin casting the plugs to us centrifugal force on the entire plug and possibly extend the depth of the stronger foam more deeply into the blank? I'd be surprised if it were that simple but the existence of the stronger exterior seems to imply there is room for improvement if that characteristic could be controlled - perhaps by a pulsed energy of some kind that travels into the interior and affects the curing and size and density of the polyurethane.
Heavy.
Here's a story: after WWII a group of young, talented, and ambitious people connected to the aerospace industry in SoCal take their knowledge and follow their passions into surfboard construction; AND SPAWN 60 years of garage and independent innovation, knowledge passed down word of mouth, and it has evolved into the global thing that surfboard construction is. I'm talking about Hobie, Simmons, G&S, Clark, and then Lis and Frye, Santa Cruz, Santa Barbara, OC. And all the computers and modern science analysis has only contributed minute refinements, mostly in consistency (I'm guessing Darren Pang doesn't need the computer to get his shapes how he wants them or to understand the tradeoffs in his boards; how did he learn that?). Think of all the problem solving and innovation these guys worked through over the years. For me, the people involved in this story are way more impressive than our billion dollar CEO's (disconnected from everything normal people go through) because they did it outside the corporate system that seems to be gobbling up our world. I'd love to see someone tell it straight, in a nice, thoughtful and quiet way. Take it from the man.
Can you please upload the George Greenough full episode??
The truth of the whole thing. <---i like that a lot ?
He was a dick in the water but I always enjoyed yarning with him away from the surf. I'm embarrassed to say he spoke to me after his face got rearranged in that fight and I didn't recognise him. I hope I get to see him again and apologise. He's been in my life since I was a grom.
Wow - such an important conversation - nice to have a humane voice to the Grubby legacy - intelligent and insightful - an important part of the surfing evolution - I now don't see Grubby as a disgruntled crank - but a tough and shrewd businessman - he deserves a second interview and more - got so much to say that hasn't been said before - (fills in the blanks, as it were) thanks gent, thoroughly enjoyable podcast, GRATEFUL to you both !
Great that you interviewed Grubby.my dad rode dirtbikes with him in Colorado,in the 90s i think.he asked me if i had ever heard of Grubby Clark, 😅
Great story
Something interesting Rolf Aurness is the son of James Arness (born Aurness) actor from Gunsmoke for all of us old enough to remember 🤙
The surf coast was a wonderful playground back then, I guess it probably still is for the few that can afford it.
Inspiration
Thanks thanks thanks, Jeff. (And TSJ)
Best interview ever Hawaiian style.i remember my ist of 12 full winters north shore seeing Michael ho and his mastery of real sunset.priceless
WWELL HE MADE ME LAUGH
U WANT STORIES
MANY AT 3 PM