Video

yes, any suspension grease is perfectly fine

These should be readily available online or ask your local shop to order you some.

Sadly this is a common issue with new forks! Unfortunately I don’t have any alternative solutions for holding the shaft safely (wooden block split in half with appropriate size hole could work), however you don’t necessarily need the bullet tool if you can solve the Stuckdown without removing the shaft completely.

@@mtbsuspensiontech how would it be done then, because I understood i have to remove it completely. Or there is another way to solve suckdown. Its completely sucked in for me... I will have hard time clamping it anyhow, with or without tool 🫠

If you can find a way to safely clamp the shaft, it should suffice to remove the base stud which will release the excess air from the negative chamber. The downside of not removing and cleaning the whole assembly is that it could happen again.

Sorry to bore you, but could you maybe tell me a timestamp in your video where I can see to what you mean that base stud is...Since on one end is white cap, and on other end is the shaft you clamp in video. Thanks a bunch

1:10 shows how the base stud is removed. After this step, air can escape from the negative chamber, allowing you to fully extend the shaft again. After you have fully extended shaft, simply reinstall the base stud and your done.

Thank you! I’m using Locite from a Germany company called Würth, but any will do!

Glad you liked it!

You're welcome!

is this sarcasmn?

I have two from Parktool (3/4“ and 1/2“) and one from Hazet (1/4“)

Not really, unless you have air loss problems or have several thousand miles behind you.

There is, but it’s not really necessary to swap unless you are loosing air or have several thousand miles behind you…

You can use any 5WT suspension oil!

@@mtbsuspensiontech Thanks for the quick reply.

You’re welcome!

Thanks man!

803-01-487 38 Float NA2 Rebuild

@@mtbsuspensiontech tks a lot!!!!

Hi Andy, thanks for the positive feedback! I have an idea what caused your compression dials to seize - it happened to a few times in the past too. When opening the screw which holds the compression dials, you may have inadvertently cranked open the screw against the pressure of the compression needle, rather than holding the dial and opening against the pressure of your fingers. Sounds complicated, but in end effect you just overtightened (in fact over loosened 🧐) the compression needle. With a bit of luck and care you can simply crank open the needle clockwise. Will need some Force and but not too much and don’t squeeze the head too much because you can easily crush it! Hope this helps!

@@michaelherleth7848 Michael, go grateful for the response and so quickly. To clarify, I removed the retaining wire to remove the LSC coupler. Do I use the coupler with the dial (small black one) to remove the LSC needle (clockwise)? Or do I need to use a small socket on the LSC needle (clockwise)? Or, should I reinstall the LSE coupler and attempt to open the needle (clockwise)? So sorry to bug ya. Big thanks, Andy

Hi Andy, I would reinstall the wire retaining clip and carefully turn the LSC coupler clockwise. Cheers

@@mtbsuspensiontech I fixed it! I put a 4mm socket on the LSC coupler and turned it clockwise (slightest torque needed, more than my fingers could provide). Put it all back together. Smooth like hot butter. Not sure how I over turned the LSC (intially using palm on the topcap assembly during reassembly. Using 28mm socket much easier and safer). Fork is running smooth as warm butter now. Thanks for all the help and support.

All newer Fox forks have wipers without flange 👍

@@mtbsuspensiontech thanks

Sorry I missed your comment - checkout some of my replies to other posts and I think you’ll find some useful tips!

I recommend pausing as you go along if it’s too fast. I purposely kept it short and concise so as not to bore those viewers with more experience/ knowledge of the process.

I agree that pushing the shaft 3/4 of the way risks removing too much oil from the cartridge. I‘d rather have a few more ml of oil in the lowers than air in the cartridge. Unlike on the spring side, the damper side stantion is open and therefore provides plenty of space for any excess oil.

Glad it helped!

Achieving equilibrium between the positive and negative chambers is still feasible after a rebuild without the shaft at full extension, but it becomes more challenging. First, extending the fork-instead of compressing it-is necessary to maneuver the air piston beyond the equalizing channel. Additionally, the force needed to compress the air within the smaller negative chamber is significantly higher compared to the compression force required for the much larger positive chamber. Effectively pumping and cycling the fork typically relies on the proper positioning of the airshaft, specifically, resting on or near the equalizing channel. In instances of even minor “Stuckdown,” where the fork does not rebound fully, it becomes necessary to extend the fork instead of compressing it to achieve proper equalization.

The tool I use is from Push Industries and I can highly recommend it! www.pushindustries.com/collections/suspension-oils-and-lubes/products/32mm-fork-seal-driver

@@mtbsuspensiontech Greatly appreciate the quick reply. Just found it. Any input on the lower leg damper tools? When I look at various sites none of them say they work on the 38mm fork. Kinda strange.

Sorry I missed the second part of your question - Both of the Lower Leg Removal Tools are from Fox: Spring side Part number 398-00-681 and Damper side Part number 398-00-682. Hope this helps!

Glad to have helped you successfully complete your first fork service! Nice work with the carbon paste/ heating - next time you could also try spraying the damper body and vice with Alcohol and clamping while still wet….

Fox Number: 398-00-657 Tooling: Bullet, Sealhead To Shaft, FLOAT NA 2

Seems like a nice to have tool but not necessary? Will the shaft line up without it?

Sadly, this is pretty common...

Great to hear!

You sure can! Just need to replace your 170mm air shaft with 180mm

Correct!

The airshaft should be disaasembled and cleaned. Than greased. The damper should dissaseble fully and cleaned. Changing the seals. Checking the shims for deflection damage. The bleeding is so inncorect. It ahould be machine bleeded after the procedure u have performed. No bad feelings. 🙏

I made a separate video for the airshaft - check it out. As for completely disassembling the Grip cartridge: I would only do this if you have symptoms consistent with a poor performing damper. In the same way your car mechanic won't do a full engine teardown when you go for your service. Oil change - yes. More work than necessary - no. There is nothing incorrect about this method of bleeding. Bleeding a Grip cartridge with a vacuum pump is in fact impossible - it is not a sealed unit capable of holding any signifanct pressure or vacuum (note the big hole on the side). Thanks for your comments nonetheless, I like to be tested ;-)

Yes and yes!

Nearly all air shafts are hollow, doesn’t matter which model or brand, and yes this is part of the negative air chamber.

@@mtbsuspensiontech Amen. Looking at the na2 air shaft assembly diagram, the air piston pin gap must face the base stud. So yes, it is indeed hollow. I wonder if the air shaft rod insides gets gunked up with grease too.

This is unusual, but yes there is an O-ring there which maybe damaged in your case.

Your choice ... If you follow the instructions actually its not sooo hard to make a full service and you can ride your expensive fork for many many years!

I'll make a video the next time I remove the shaft! Can I send to you directly?

Glad you like them!

Great to hear!

You mean the ball size? I will measure and let you know...

It’s possible, yes.

@@mtbsuspensiontech Ok, il faut tester ! Thanks

Merci beaucoup!!

Yes, it’s almost exactly the same, only the air piston is a little different.

@@mtbsuspensiontech Ok, thanks !!

Fox recommends every 100hrs / yearly

Hmmm good question... I don't know.

Glad it helped!

Soon!

Thanks for your appreciation!

Fox 20WT will definitely help keep things smooth. Like I mentioned in the video, be careful about using too much grease as this can lead to stuck down if it blocks the small channel between positive and negative air chambers. And you’re right, the shaft seal on the neg plate is an important seal which also needs to be kept well greased. 👍

@@mtbsuspensiontech is that the blue one that is very hard to replace?

Changing the glide ring is not really necessary unless it’s damaged, so I wouldn’t be too worried if the one in the kit doesn’t fit.

I ran into the same thing on mine, came on 2023 Hightower. I found in the service literature that the white ring between quad seal and wiper seal is different on new models. On older model shocks it is removable and has the split it it. I removed mine by mistake. The service manual says that this is a factory installed bushing and does not need service. It also says if it is removed, the air can needs to be replaced, oops. I went ahead and put the bushing back in and finished service. The shock holds pressure after a full ride, but I still might replace the air can for peace of mind.

@@scottkocjancic644 I really don’t think you need to replace the air can because of this!!! The white ring is just there to hold the seal in place - and to keep dirt at bay.

@@mtbsuspensiontech 🙏