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Amazing detail! Thanks for sharing! Is there any reason not to just do the entire wall in densglass? Especially in the bathroom it seems like it would be great from a moisture / mold perspective.

Hi Doug. Same questions, if you don't mind please: 1. How wide did you make the gap between the drywall and window? 2. What plastic bead type did you prefer (is it just an L?)? 3. At what step did you caulk (air seal) the drywall return and/or bead against the window? THANK YOU!

Is reinventing the wheel...

Awesome Doug, love it! Which mud did you use? Trying to do this myself. Thanks!

What about cement board instead of fiber backed gypsum. Which one is more compression and water resistant. ?

Love this method and want to use it but are you ever concerned that having that tiny gap at the floor kind of compromises your air tightness? It feels like a caulked baseboard would be ideal in for that reason. I mean you could also caulk to the floor with your method but it would detract from the aesthetic. I may do this anyways - looks great

What I don't totally understand is flooring install. It seems to me that the baseboard covers up gaps between the floor and the wall. I can only figure that you have to install the floor BEFORE filling in the bottom 4" which is disappointing for me because I don't want to tear up my tile floor just to make the baseboard flush.

Great video! I’m planning a mid-century home in Austin with lots of vertical open joint cladding. Could you update us on how the siding is holding up and any color changes? Do you still expect it to be maintenance-free (no re-coating for over 10 years)? I thought composite was the only truly maintenance-free option, but this looks interesting. Thank-you.

Doug you should do better homework, GA Pacific's Forcefield was designed by the same engineer who designed the ZiP system (Landus Bennet), he stated he made the tape on the Force Field product thinner, because the surface applied to the OSB was less granular than Zip, in order to improve water flow. The thinner tape flows water better than the thicker tape found on the ZiP system. He also stated both systems worked equally as well when used with the manufacturers tape, and that ZiP tape should not be used with Ga Pacific Force Field product (its too thick) Additionally, that both systems should be covered with tar paper and used with a rain screen for best results. The rain screen approach, should be applied to the roof and walls, in order to promote water drainage and air drying. His discussion was relative to standard house framing methods (not SiP).

Thank you for noting about cleaning the tape with acetone for any overlap (with tape or liquid flash). This is something that no one seems to talk about. I haven't heard Risinger mention it in any of his videos. I ran into this when I built my house earlier this year. My framers and GC had no idea it was necessary... I did (after researching it)... and I ended up ripping ALL of the tape off of my window flanges, cleaning the rough opening tape with acetone, and reapplying. It came off easily even after having been rolled... which should tell you exactly why it's a problem. In hindsight, I wish I had done liquid flash on all windows and doors. I wouldn't mess with it on sheathing seams... it's super expensive ($10 more per tube than Prosoco Fast Flash... why?!)... but for other penetrations and for the foundation to sill, it's fantastic. If I was to replace tape on the sheathing, I'd go with stretch tape. Much thicker, much more durable, and because it has a paper cover there's no need to acetone.

I do not believe this actually true....

Finally a modern baseboard

Did you polish it before framing and protect it, or wait to polish after framing?

This is very good!! I have the same issue, but How do you seal the windows, aren't the shims in the way?? 🙏

Amazing, cheers!

Don't mount to building it will transfer vibration to building and having the condenser 6 feet in the air is extra fun for the service guy

Just installed one of these at the house… I have new-found respect for these HVAC guys!

What state is this in

That’s actually pretty clever

its not the deep lol, especially with 10m bar lol

Did you cut holes for lights? Any issues cutting the fiberglass or lessons learned?

That's not necessarily true. The real reason they stopped doing it was labor savings. It does depend on what stud size vs the brace size. For instance, you wouldn't want to let-in a 2x4 into a 2x4 wall. For sure, a wall completely wrapped in OSB is stronger than a let-in braced wall. But, there are instances where a let-in braced wall is stronger than an unbraced wall, or when walls are braced with OSB only on the corners. The important details are: that the braces are mortised in tight, an appropriate construction adhesive is used, and the appropriate sized and number of braces are used. The angles matter too. I believe 35⁰ to 55⁰ is OK, but the closest to 45⁰ is better. Top plate to bottom plate would be advantageous. NEVER use drywall screws! They aren't construction rated and will snap quite easily.

i hate trim my self, im thinking of doing a shadow bead and raise the drywall the floor maybe 1/2"

Doug could you share an update on this? Would you recommend this practice as I'm considering doing the same thing. You used two 3/8" rods per sheet? I noticed other using 1 5/8" per panel, you prefer 2pieces of 3/8" instead? Thanks!

Hey, (sorry for bad english) My screed is isolated from my bare wall (it is a solid timber wall), by a 8 mm thick perimeter isolation strip. Now the next step I think would be attaching (ie screwing) the metal-L reglet to the bare wall exactly with the upper edge line of finished floor level and finish the gypsum plasterboard covering of the timber wall. Now the tiles can be laid exactly underneath the plaster edge. First Question: Is this feasible in this way? Second Question: Now I have a (very) little gap ("shadow gap") between the upper edge of the tile and the plaster edge. You also have that little gap as far as I can tell from watching the video. When mopping the flor, water can flow into that gap, can't it? Would you leave that gap open, or would you fill it with a (of course flexible) joint sealer (such as silicone). What type of joint sealer would you take to close it? Thanks, Leo

I have a quick question mate; did you use a P50 bead at the base, or just a heavy duty L bead?

No weakening the stud, if anything is the opposite

Is that Zip R 3 or 6?

Do you still fully insulate the attic up to the ridge? Or do you leave a gap in the insulation as well at the ridge? If you are using insulation on top of your roof decking, are you running that all the way up to the top of the ridge covering your diffusion port? Or are you cutting the insulation short equal to the cut out of the port and keeping an open path for the moisture to escape?

weakening the stud? LOL Sounds like a joke. How does he not think the holes he creates when he drives a nail through the stud is also not weakening the stud? He acts like he knows the electrical and plumbing guys are not going to drill holes all over all kinds of studs to run wires and plumbing. haha weakening the stud. haha yea whatever

If that guy built me a house with his ego we wouldn’t make it til noon on day one.

"Dennsshield" Nice video

I love the look; but, doesn't the Denshield base create a butt joint with the drywall? Who wants to feather-out and sand a butt joint upwards and sideways every 8 feet on their hands and knees? (Denshield only comes in 3x5 and 4x8 as far as I know?)

Great Video !! Love a man who gives a power packed presentation, knows exactly what he is talking about ,, AND says Always Vent Your Soffits !! Excellent presentation ! Great planning and forethought !

You should use 2x6s, (not 2x4s) with notched bracing. I would agree in part, but nothing compares to the racking strength of notched bracing. Just frame with larger materials. USA homes are built too cheap.

Ok so my first reaction was strong. And it went something like this: “Duuuuude, are you serious-? 😨 🤦🏻‍♀️🥴 Of COURSE it matters if the air is fresh, not just clean! When you build super tight houses, the problem- one of them- is that you can run out of an abundance of oxygen! 😅 How is just ‘cleaning’ the air, through a filter, going to solve that problem? 😬 When you told us to ‘think about it’, that was what immediately LEAPED into my mind.” And then I finished watching the video. And was a bit more comforted…. But still, that burst of fresh air that’s coming in from on high- is it modified at all to match the temp and humidity of the house, -as an ERV would do? 🤔 Or is it just coming in at the temperature and humidity that the outdoors is at, that time?

SO- I’ve been trying to figure out what I should use to protect my solid fir front door (can’t have a screen door in front of it, because it’s an outswing) - and I’ve been wanting to use a product that was natural, and that I would not have to reapply regularly over the years. * What do you think? * 🙉 could this be my answer? Is there any reason why it would not be a good idea to use this, these products in combination exactly like you did here, on a solid wood Exterior door? 🤔 And is there really no maintenance required, there after? For many years? I’m so intrigued now!

Love the way it looks! I thought it was Yakisugi (shou sugi ban) - which is the route *I* took for maintenance-free siding. I love that even more because it doesn’t require the use of any products that could interfere with it naturally breaking down and turning back to earth, when its time is done (~100 years from now). Thanks to @Nakamoto !! 💜🙌🏼

This is exactly what I needed to find, thank you🔥🔥

Looks shit

How the heck are your lines so straight with the liquid flash?

Would you recommend using a hardiebacker instead?

Good video. Thanks!

This is so clever. Could you please share the type of fiber glass gypsum you are using? I m considering replacing all baseboards in my house using you awesome approach

Do you have any videos or advice on exterior wall framing, double wall versus staggered studs with 2x8 plates?

Are you able to walk back down forward with this?

Lol WOW

Bro - excellent video! Subscribed! Huber will need to sell 5-gallon buckets of Liqui-Flash to support you! :-) It would be awesome to see you do a house with standard OSB or plywood and then spray the whole house with Polywall. What is the material / labor difference between the two? It would make a great video!

This is exactly what we did on our house, except we have a shingle roof. We haven't enclosed the interior yet though.

Awesome project. Want to do it at mine. Does the water not get under the reveal and damage the interwall?