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You can buy a simple bottle jack at harbor freight, that's what I did. I then welded on a base and added the top attachment. However I don't recommend this anymore. The toe-jack worked fine for a while, but no matter how careful I was in welding slowly and allowing time for cooling, I must have damaged the seals. I guess I could rebuild it with new seals, but if you want a bullet proof solution, you may want to buy a ready-made toe jack, like this one from Jet: amzn.to/3NIOHtZ

@@amaedesign thank you so much 😊

Usei rolamentos R10 e haste de perfuração de 5/8" porque essas peças eram fáceis de obter. A placa de aço superior tem cerca de 16 mm de espessura e cerca de 100x100 mm. No entanto, você pode facilmente escolher qualquer tamanho de rolamento e eixo que seja fácil de encontrar onde você ao vivo. Sugiro usar uma haste de broca endurecida para o eixo porque a superfície é precisa e resistirá à flexão. Se você tiver problemas para encaixar o rolamento, pode congelar o eixo e aquecer o rolamento no forno e, em seguida, montá-los. A parte superior a placa pode ter qualquer tamanho ou formato que você quiser. Espero ter ajudado! E caso precise de links dos rolamentos e eixo R10 que usei: R10 Bearing: amzn.to/3D6lN1W Axles (5/8" W1 Drill Rod): amzn.to/2yJBDg6

Yep, saw that later when I watched the video. On the one paw, it was a learning moment. On the other paw... owww wait, there's no other paw.

I've always been fascinated with techniques to move heavy machines too. I wish you well with your new machine!

It's worked out pretty well! I've hung seamless backdrops in 8 different studio spaces in the three houses I've lived in since I made this video. Yes, I moved twice during Covid! Probably the biggest change I have made since this video is the lighting - so many affordable LED lights have come to market in the last few years! And wall-mounted lights. I really like having the cords off the floor and the lights mounted on a pivot. Maybe I'll make a video about that someday. In the meantime, I'd recommend getting wall mounts like this one: amzn.to/35eugmk and LED lights like this one: amzn.to/3sr1PKM (both affiliate links). As for the roller system, it's great - out of the way when I need it and infinitely better than setting up a paper backdrop on stands which take floor space and get in the way.

@@amaedesign Thank you for the Reply. I shoot mostly headshots and no video, so im not sure how the LEDs would help with that.

@@seattlerealestatemedia if you’ve already got a set of flashes you like then you’re right, you don’t need continuous lights. That said, I do a mix of photo and video work and have found the LED continuous lights have gotten good enough (power and color accuracy) that it is really convenient to shape the light and see results while tuning and before taking the shot. I also use a set of RGB LED lights as a color accent and can adjust the color in real time and see the effect before taking the shot. With flashes I would have to use gels and not get a full range of colors. Continuous lights are good up until about 1/200th at ISO 100. For faster shutter speeds I could haul out my flash set, but I usually just go up in ISO. Hope that helps! No matter which lighting you use, the backdrop system is still really handy to have mounted. =)

My number is 5.

glad you enjoyed it!

I actually didn't get involved, so don't know the rate charged by the riggers who handled the Haas VF2. Generally, though it's going to follow some formula of hourly rate * hours (including their travel to and from their company location). The riggers & equipment (truck/forklift) have separate hourly rates. The fastest way is just to call them and ask for a rough estimate based on what you're moving and how far.

@@amaedesign I actually bought my first VMC and company was about an hour away from pickup location and drop off was about same place as the riggers. They used sellers 10T over head crane and also their forklift. They didnt have long enough spreader bar and rigged machine from x axis gantry (gantry style machine) using eyelits and one strap from base frame. They then used all my mates at the drop off location to push the machine inside building. They didnt know what they where doing and their boss called a day later to bill me. Rate was 500 AUD/hr i think. He quoted me 1900 and i was like we pretty much did most of the work and he only dropp 200 so 1700. I was like lesson learned. They lifted half the machine's weight off the x axis gantry which i believe had eyelit holes only to carry x axis beam during manufacturing not when assembled.

Great question! Yes the 108” seamless does tend to sag if you leave it on the cardboard tube for long periods of time. I just but 2” electrical conduit and transfer the paper over if I am going to leave a color up for months. For a few weeks I just leave it on cardboard. Personally I like having neutral gray, black and green (green screen) colors up all the time and only occasionally swap in different colors. The reason is I usually color the gray backdrop with RGB lights when I want color. Sorry for the really delayed reply!

Hey, happy to help!

When I posted this video, I added annotations that explained this. Unfortunately, CZcams discontinued that feature like 5 years ago, so the annotations don't pop up anymore. That said, the lathe was never in danger of falling over. Just think of the center of gravity (perhaps 2 feet high) and the footprint (about 2' wide at narrowest). If we remove one skate and tilt the lathe until it contacts the concrete, it will barely be leaning, perhaps 5 or 8 degrees. Even in that state, there's no way I could push hard enough by hand to force it to fall all the way over. I think the only real danger was that the extra skate could have been ejected. As I've suggested in other comments on this video, it's a good idea to use 3 and not 4 skates and to use a nice rubber pad between the skate and machine to prevent slipping and to absorb any height differences.

@@amaedesign Yes, but never the less there was a risk. Not for tipping over, but for falling off the skates. I moved a piano with similar skates once and did not kept my eyes open for that risk so one of the skates slid out but luckily no one got hurt and nothing got damaged.

@@AdaptingCamera I appreciate your comment and the experience you share about the piano. I think we are in agreement that it’s important to make sure the skates stay under the load and that it can be dangerous if they come off the skates. We might disagree about exactly how _much_ risk this particular incident had, but that’s ok =)

@@amaedesign Yes, we definitely agree basically in everything. I think generally it is better to be more careful than less when it comes to safety, but I work on daily basis with safety critical things, so it is in my blood, which does not mean I never make mistakes or extremely scared of everything... :)

It's all ok unless you overheat or crush them . As is they are inert.