Video

Thanks for your hint! Actually I wanted the eyes to be completely generic in terms of their shape, movements and so on. When using prerendered sprites, I'll lose this capability. Another question is, which flicker you mean? If we're talking about the slow vertical "scanlines" - these are only visible on camera and not in real life. If we're talking about the artifacts that are visible during fast movements (the ones I called glitches), then yes, this becomes less when using spi.

This video is a first demo, the library will be open source soon, I'm working on a "getting started" video and I hope to publish everything very soon. Stay tuned!

I'll provide the link very soon

​@@FluxGarage can't wait for it , your work is insane. Maybe if you push it to GitHub we will be grateful to help you clean up and improve the code

@@Incredible_428 Sure, give me just a few more days :)

​@@FluxGarageany updates

Thanks! Yes, such desk pets are cool and I'm also planning to create one :)

These are 2.4 inch oled displays with 128x64 pixels. You'll find many brands and sellers if you google them.

I'll publish it very soon. Currently I'm working on wrapping up the beta version and a followup video.

same i want to build a robot pet with emotion but i noob in electronic

Same bro

Maybe I'll sell some kits that would make it easier to start :)

Thanks!

Hi Jim, if the stepper motor does not rotate fluidly, this has most likely to do with the hardware, especially with the stepper motor wiring or the amount of current that goes to the motor. I guess you're using the easydriver stepper motor driver as I did im my tutorial, right? Then this guide from sparkfun will be interesting for you: learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/easy-driver-hook-up-guide/all Beside the correct wiring of the stepper motor, you can also try to adjust the tiny potentiometer on the easydriver board that determines how much current goes to the motor. You'll also find information on this in the article that I mentioned above.

Hi Stephan, neue Kits sind vsl. noch diesen Monat verfügbar, dürfte nicht mehr lange dauern. Wenn du ein Relais oder einen Transistor ansteuern möchtest, sind die nötigen Änderungen am Code minimal. Auch die Änderung der Pausen-Zeiten ist sehr einfach möglich. Ich kann dir also gerne ein paar Tipps geben. Welchen Controller möchtest du bauen, den mit Display oder ohne?

@@FluxGarage Moin Dennis, vielen Dank für die Antwort. Ich würde gerne die Version mit Display bauen. Gibt es das auch als Set? Parallel dazu werde ich noch einen größeren Teller mit Zahnriemenantrieb für schwerere Lasten bauen. Ich habe hier noch ein CNC-Shield, Nema, und Treiber liegen. Ein zweites Display für diese Version ist auch angedacht.

You might be interested in the solution that the guys from seabass offer: seabass360.com/products/crayfish-50-photographic-video-turntable

One of the best ways to trigger smartphone cameras is to use an esp32 and send keystrokes via bluetooth. I've created such a controller and will publish the instructions as soon as I have time.

@@FluxGarage thanks a lot I appreciate your efforts I will wait for it 🙂

@@FluxGarage Hey FluxGarage! I would be very interested to set up your system, but have it triggered my iPhone camera instead of a dedicated DSLR. Any chance you may have the instructions about how to do that? Thank you!

@@l.w.c.2519 Hi! Yes, I have such a controller on my publishing list, but I'm currently preparing some videos for robotics projects first. Probably I'll tackle the esp32 camera controller after that. Stay tuned! ;)

Hi Rich, yes, the author of the "multiCameraIrControl" library renamed the function from "shotNow()" to "shutterNow()". So, depending on which library version you have downloaded, you have to change my code or the library. This is the link of the newest library: codebender.cc/library/multiCameraIrControl#multiCameraIrControl.cpp Also, have a look at the comments section here, especially the comment from "CarlosR478": www.instructables.com/Arduino-Controller-for-Automated-360-Product-Photo/

@@dennisholscher7139 thanks Dennis, I now have a working turntable.

@@dennisholscher7139 Hi , would it be possible to convert the IR pin out to trigger a Relay so i can trigger a camera without an IR sensor? I just need to short the Shutter cable so thought a relay Normally Open could be triggered to close the loop.

@@johnnydohe6506 Yes, this is possible. You don't need to convert the IR pin, just use another free pin of your arduino and have a look at step 5 of this instructable from user "DIY Hacks and How Tos": www.instructables.com/Automatic-Camera-Shutter-Switch/ In the turntable controller code, you have to adjust the content of the snap() function accordingly.

@@dennisholscher7139 Thanks Dennis

This shouldn't be a big deal, if you already have the right cable for your camera. There's a good instructable for this, just have a look at "Step 5: Activate the Camera Shutter With a Microcontroller": www.instructables.com/Automatic-Camera-Shutter-Switch/ Once you have your hardware set up according to above's instructable, you just have to replace the content of the snap()-function of the controller code with sending a low signal to the specific hardware pin. And of course, you should then send a high signal again, so that the camera will only be triggered once.

@@FluxGarage amazing thanks so much! Really hyped to get this going (photogrammetry with the void technique + 1 extra pass for roughness map extraction). Thanks for putting this lit out there really appreciate it! :)

Unfortunately I don't have any 3D model of the turntable. As the turntable is based on lasercut acrylic plates, there are 2D vector files that can be downloaded at the regarding instructable: www.instructables.com/Automated-Turntable-With-Steppermotor/

Sure, I'll put that on my projects list for the future :)

Hi Matteo, in general, this turntable is made to be used with small and light objects like jewelery, cartoon figures, technical gadgets and so on. But sure, it should be possible to hack it a bit and make it work for higher loads. The main limitation is, that the stepper motor drives the turntable directly from the center, which will become ineffective when using heavy objects. Using a stronger motor is one option, therefore you have to add higher standoff spacers between the middle- and bottom plate. For heavier objects, you sometimes also need to fill the tiny gap between the drive dog and the hole in the upper plate to avoid the turntable from shaking when it stops. I think, it wouldn’t make sense to use this turntable for objects more than 1 or 2kgs, but I did not yet test the maximum possible load. The kit comes with a "lazy susan" bearing (which contains steel balls inside).

Hi, the current controller does not yet have a video mode. But if you're familiar with C programming, it shouldn't be a big deal to hack the controller for performing smooth continuous rotations.

Hi Nicolas, thank you! Unfortunately we can only sell kits of the turntable. But assembling the turntable itself is very easy, you just have to add a stepper motor. Whereas building the additional controller requieres some knowledge to electronics and programming.

Hi Johannes, the arduino is powered via 5V USB whereas the easydriver board, which drives the stepper motor, is powered by an additional external 12V power supply. You can find detailed instructions for the controller and download links for the code here: www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Controller-for-Automated-360-Product-Photo/

Hi Jenny, the controller is based on the easydriver board and thus you can use it for any stepper motor that is supported by the easydriver. The turntable is originally developed for small and light objects, so it won't work for chairs "out of the box". Since the stepper motor drives the turntable directly from the center, you would need a stronger motor which would affect the whole setup. I think, my solution could be a good starting point to develop/hack your own solution. But also, there are some other approaches out in the web that are developed for being used with larger objects, too.