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I used an Airbrush, the Fengda BD-130, for a long time. It's very cheap but surprisingly quite decent. I still have it and use it for spraying metallic paints. This summer, I got myself a Harder&Steenbeck Infinity, which is in a completely different league.

Thanks ​@@Model_Addict

Hi! When I use oil paints as a wash, I want a glossy varnish underneath so that the paint flows well along the panel lines and can easily be wiped off areas where it shouldn't be. On the other hand, when I need the oil paint to stick to the surface, I apply a matt varnish. Matt has a texture like a sponge and absorbs the oil paint. Perfect for creating dirt effects.

@@Model_Addict how about if u want to shade panel lines and also fade the center panels, gloss better or still use a matt surface ?

In this case, use a matt varnish again. If you apply a glossy varnish, the oil paint won’t adhere to the surface. You’ll try to blend it smoothly, but the paint will move around on the surface. The best thing to do is test it on scrap plastic.

@@Model_Addict Thx 4 ur help.

@@Model_Addict so I tried both gloss and flat surfaces and end results was the same. only difference is blending easier on gloss surface but flat lets u see effects right away but bit more work to blend.

Thanks! I appreciate it. 😊

Hi! It depends on the specific model and the instructions. In this case, I applied a scale increase of 195.3% for the top view and 112.19% for the side view. These notes are about half a year old, so I hope the information is accurate. I used a simple method: I selected a reference line on the model and the same one in the instructions, then measured them with calipers. The formula for the calculation should be Dimension from the model / Dimension from the instructions multiplied by 100.

If you're referring to the chrome parts, the ones on the shock absorbers are made from self-adhesive aluminum foil, and for the door opening system of the main landing gear, I used Ammo's A-STAND chrome paint.👋 And thanks! 😊

Thanks!

Thanks a lot. 🍻👍

Thank you, I appreciate it. ❤️🍻🫡

Thanks, man!🤙

Hi, in this case, I used a 0.2mm nozzle. Sometimes, however, I use a 0.3mm one. I feel I have more control over the spray with a smaller nozzle.👍

Thank you so much. 🫡

I appreciate your support. I'm already working on the next project and hope you'll like it. 😊

Thanks! 🫡

Thank you 👋🍻

Thanks, mate!☺️

Hi, thanks for the comment. The plan was to create a very subtle effect, something understated. Comparing it with the reference, it seems like I achieved that. 😊

Oh, thank you for your support. I truly appreciate it. 😊🍻 I believe there are great modelers in every country, even better than me. 😅 I’m just a small fish compared to them…🫡😂

🫡

Thanks!

Oh, thanks, mate! 👋 I also used to have trouble spraying paints, especially Surfacer. It's thick and heavy. I kept getting a gritty texture on the models, especially in areas where parts met at a 90-degree angle or more. I solved it by thinning the paints even more. It depends on the specific paint, but I always try to keep the consistency around that of milk and apply it in thin layers. It takes longer, but it works well for me.🤝

Wonderful, thank you! I'll thin it a bit more, because I was getting that grit as well. I've been using the Mr Surfacer 1000 in the rattle cans in the mean time, which works wonders as well! No sense in having different primers if you don't use them though!

Thank you for the advice! 😁The aircraft will be part of a diorama, that is why the panels are opened. If I were building a standalone model, I would keep them closed. As for the weathering, I like to present models that look more used. This is because such a model tends to attract more attention. Of course, it doesn't always have to match the historical reference 100%, just like in this case. Cheers.🤝

@@Model_Addict No problem, and glad you fixed that IJNAF nomenclature. If intended for diorama then it makes sense. I understand "attraction" factor but very much prefer historic accuracy. It seems you're located in Slovakia? I'm from there. I liked your Slovak AF Mig-29 build, I'm planning to build the same. After I finish Slovak L-29 and L-39!

Unfortunately a lot of modellers have fallen into the trap of weathering a plane until it looks like a death trap, the one that annoys me the most is where they weather to death the landing gear bay/weapons bay and present a pool of fluid on the ceiling part of those bays…implying that the plane was stored upside down so all the leaking fluid accumulated on the ceiling rather than dripping down on to the inner side of bay doors….like they would in reality….because of a thing called….gravity. But I doubt that will stop them from making a brand new state of the art stealth fighter looking like it’s 120 years old and emptied its entire hydraulic fluid tank into its wheel/weapons bays 😂🤭

Hi, I find them easy to work with. The only issue I see is that, when viewed up close, the printing pattern might be visible. However, this mainly applies to large, solid-colored areas. These can still be painted using masks. 🫡

No they ain't, if used right they're brilliant. I've built 4 Eduard kits this year and I've not had any issues with the decals.

Thank you, buddy. Your builds are amazing; hats off to you.🙂‍↕️ I was also considering adding stressed skin effects to my Zero. But, at 1/48 scale, it might not look as impressive as it does on larger models.

@@Model_Addict Thank You. The colour /tone modulation in your painting gives the impression of a stressed skin surface. My intension is to build the 1/24 kit to resemble the restored aircraft from the, Texas Flying Legends Museum. It will be posed in flight with a pilot figure. I returned to the hobby in 2018. Retired from my business designing/fabricating/building custom motorcycles. The site is no longer but a couple of F/book pages and image searches of, Special Effects Chopperworks in Burlington, Ontario, Canada are still online. The skill sets and required discipline from that crossed over to help with model building. Since finding your channel and watching the Spitfire build, an official RAF training film on the practices/procedure for painting, 'High Speed', aircraft is posted on my channel that you may find interesting.

Thanks, mate! There won't be any files available for this engine. It's part of the add-on set from Eduard, Cat.No. 648763. The only options are to buy the set or model your own engine.

Thank you. 😁😊

Thank you so much. The Wildcat is already waiting in the stash for its moment. It's even a dual combo set. I’m not sure how I’ll present it in the video yet, but I’ll figure it out. 😅🤙

Oh, thanks for the support. Like everything else, this segment is also about money. In the past, I tried to replace most products with whatever I had on hand or mixed things myself. But now, I’m more inclined to just open, use, close, and not worry about it.👍

Hey, thanks for the tips! 😊This won't be my last Spitfire, so I'll pay more attention to the harness next time. As for that gap near the windshield... I totally missed it. I was so excited about how the build was progressing that I just ignored it. 🥲I just needed to fill it in a bit with some putty. 😅I'll make sure to be more careful about that next time. Thanks again!🫡🤝

@Model_Addict No worries mate, it's your build and it's up to you, and it's a great effort 👍 *do that research about the harness lol... I've done many marques of the Spitfire, 1/48 mainly and some Tamiya 1/32 (IX's & VIII's) and have the Kotare (Brian Lane) Mk1a in the stash screaming at me to get it happening lol... still have a few Eduard Spitfires stowed, so yeah, I get the reasoning behind doing more, and what an absolutely beautiful subject. Glad you can go forward with it all anyway as you should with your talent. Very warm regards from us here in paradise at Tuckombil via Alstonville and East Ballina 800km north of Sydney ex Maroubra. MATE ✨️ 🤙🤝

Thanks, buddy. 🫡😁👍

Thank you, I really appreciate it. 😁👋

@@Model_Addict Not at all a problem!!

Plasmo is the king. 💪I'm not even close to his level.🤧

Thanks! 😊👋

The cousin from Aliexpress. What you ordered vs. what you got.😂

Thank you for your support. I appreciate it a lot. 🫡

😊🫡 thank you very much 😊

Thanks mate! Cheers👍🫡

Thank you. I'm really glad to hear that.😊

Thanks!🤩

Thank you for your support😁👍

Thank you! 🫡

Thanks❤️

Thanks! Yes, it’s the GWH Kit No. S4809. 🙂

@@Model_Addict Thanks, I like the digital camo but I don't like the tiger on the tail. Happy that is an option. Cheers. By the way, what is your next project?

I hesitated a bit about which version to choose. Since I'm from Slovakia, this was "our" Tiger, but in the end, I decided to go with this version. 😊 Next project: Spitfire. You've probably already seen that. 😁And this Friday, I'll release a new video where I finish the Zero. The first part is already available here on the channel.👍

@@Model_Addict Now there's a coincidence, I live in Kyoto Japan. 😀 I checked out the Zero progress and it's brilliant! See you started posting vids a year ago, but no way you got this good in a year! Absolutely quality builds. 🙂👍 Subscribed.

Thank you for your support. I really appreciate it. I want to place the Zero in a diorama, so I'll continue with the Japanese theme for a little longer.

Thanks, buddy. I really appreciate it. Here is my email address. ms.models.svk@gmail.com I'd love to take a look at the big Hornet. 😁👍

Oh, thank you very much. The F-15... I will take a look at it sometime. I must have such a legend in my collection.🤙👌😁

@@Model_Addict I recommend the F-15E Academy and F-15E Great Wall Hobby models, both in 1/72 scale. if an academy kit you need an aftermarket engine Nozzle set if Great Wall Hobby they say you will need an aftermarket declas set. would love to see that if it's Posebol good luck