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Witsenburg
Registrace 2. 02. 2007
Boat8, assembling / glueing the hull parts together
Boat8, assembling / glueing the hull parts together
zhlédnutí: 35
Video
Boat6, releasing prints from glass plate
zhlédnutí 14Před 3 měsíci
Boat6, releasing prints from glass plate
Building the Thingiverse F1 boat hull.
zhlédnutí 490Před 4 měsíci
The parts, even though corrected, see previous video, are not really user friendly. They are just the hull sliced in sections, no means to make it whole. So I am thinking up solutions as I go.
Thingiverse F1 boat remix / file fix.
zhlédnutí 132Před 4 měsíci
Thingiverse F1 boat remix / file fix.
Ligfiets! Het rijden lukt al een beetje.
zhlédnutí 159Před 6 měsíci
Na vier keer gecontroleerd vallen had ik de smaak te pakken. Het gaat nog voorzichtig en schakelen moet even wennen, maar het lukt! Camerawerk van mijn zoon, waarvoor dank.
VVTCoverScrews
zhlédnutí 63Před 10 měsíci
It is not uncommon, to say the least, for some idiot to have tried to remove these screws without the proper T25 screw bit. Here's how I tackle that problem when all else fails. I don't like grinding a slot into them, as I have flying metal sparks anywhere near an open engine. I replaced the screws with M5x10 T25 drive ones from stainless steel 316, also known as A4. These are quite tough.
First drive with the turbo on the car.
zhlédnutí 299Před 2 lety
First drive with the turbo on the car.
Final result CR-6 bed probing on my printer
zhlédnutí 97Před 2 lety
Final result CR-6 bed probing on my printer
CR-6 like weigh cell hotend bed probe Part 2
zhlédnutí 29Před 2 lety
CR-6 like weigh cell hotend bed probe Part 2
CR-6 like weigh cell hotend bed probe Part 1
zhlédnutí 64Před 2 lety
CR-6 like weigh cell hotend bed probe Part 1
MX-5 NB harvesting a door connector from the breaker yard
zhlédnutí 502Před 2 lety
MX-5 NB harvesting a door connector from the breaker yard
MX-5 1.8 VVT bad cold start on Speeduino
zhlédnutí 557Před 2 lety
MX-5 1.8 VVT bad cold start on Speeduino
You ever try just filling the old body w water, freezing it. Then u have your mold for the vac. Suck the plastic onto it then let the ice melt, works great!
Traductor inglés al español.
Can you show how to do the vacuum molding?
Merci ❤
it is the best tunnel boat that i see Where i can fount the stl files?
🤟🫶💯👏👏👏👏
❤
Love the progress really moving along Take Care
Got your Ateam going love the tree supports they can do some amazing things take care
I might have missed it in last Video what type of filament did you use and looking forwrd to next Video
Hi, thanks for the message. It's regular PLA, printed at 0,2 mm layers with 2 walls.
But I am working on my own design, with a watertight section and no large air intakes (which take on water and catch air / break the streamlining). cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/rc-f1-powerboat-hull
Really enjoyed this looking forward to more take care
thanks for making this video. had no idea how to unclip this
did you solved this problem?
It was solved in later updates of rhe firmware, it works fine now.
Ik zou graag weten hoe ik Uw meetmethode kan maken. Ik wil alleen 2 ledjes laten branden: Rood= Stroom uit het Net en Groen+ Stroom naar het Net. Het gaat mij om het kantel punt en het te schakelen vermogen zijn alleen die 2 Ledjes. Als U mij kan helpen graag dan geef ik U mijn emailadres
Your mega2560 is dead. I've killed 3 so far like this. Always the same result. Screen is fine.
when i connected my homemade regulator to my arduino (power transistor and zener with some resistors) my arduino did in fact blew up but not as i thought it would, because the only thing that fried was the serial converter chip, which after replacing made arduino 100% working again, later i put 7005 on a radiator and soldered it to the regulator pins although i was using 15V power suply which died soon after but yeah i never understood why people removing the diode and not deal with power regulator itself, might be a bygone from using 5v standby rail of the pc power suply as a 5v suply but in 24v you often don't have that and need another stepdown converter
Thanks its very usefull
Hi man, I'm experiencing the same issue on mine, it happen when cold, did you solved this enigma!?
One of my favorites. She's a frkg WARRIOR ❣️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
What was the outcome? I have a discontinued body I want to make a copy of.
That's genius. Did you need to reinforce the plaster with anything?
Nope, just plaster. Its more than sprong enough.
Do you think it would be okay to cut _Vin_ pin of Ramps and feed mega from 5V?
I did it and worked great except for the lcd screen, when using a 12v or less power suply it work without any problem, but when using the 24v power suply the screen just show rare characters or just don't show a thing. Could you help me with this problem? thanks for the video.
Thank you so much for the video; saved me a ton of frustration. Kept trying to remove the harness with the door open and ramming the white connector into the door jam. Would've recommended just pulling the rest of the door harness off from inside the doorcard, it's not too bad to get to once you have the plastic tar cover off if the window is up (don't get that crap on your clothes if you can avoid it). Hopefully the soldering wasn't too much of a pain, though. Best.
Love her!
Same issue what to do
Buy new one. Or claim new one from supplier.
brother, how is the boost gauge working with the turbo? stopped jittery?
It is still a piece of sh*t from AliExpress, soon (relatively) to be replaced by something better.
@@Witsenburg I understand, but does it stop working? is it working? do you have instagram so i can see better how it works? make the mod on my car's dashboard, and it is the only one that has this scale before up to 2 bar with receipt
@@DeckameronBR it works. It's just crude, noisy and the backlight cannot be switched off.
welke openingspost?
All very interesting! Where did you get your speeduino kit from? I am planning to convert my NB to speeduino as well. Greetings from Düsseldorf, Germany
Hallo Hans, bitte findet mich auf dem Speeduino forum, HugoW, dann hilfe ich dich. Macht spass!
cura 5.0 is better as it has the new variable line width
I have a s type jaguar 1/10 that is no longer available I might have to give this a try just need a vacuum forming machine lol 👍
Yeah, go do it. I will het around to the vacuum bit later, I will then show the simple setup I use. My kitchen oven is big enough to heat the plate, that simplifies things.
@@Witsenburgthanks for the reply lucky you my cooker isn't big enough I will look into making a plaster molding the way you have otherwise It going to be a lot of Sand to hold the body before I put in the plaster of Paris now only problem I have is I only have 1kg bag if plaster.🙄🙄
I really like this solution, however, I have decided to just use a buck converter and still cut the diode on the ramps board. This is also because I use a raspberry pi with the ramps board and the pi also needs 5v and more amps. The buck converter will provide everything I need, and now thanks to your guide I know exactly how to circumvent the voltage regulator and just send 5v directly to the Mega.
Do you really needs supports for that print? It looks like you could get away with it from what’s visible in the video.
I also tried without, decent result, but I am also tuning the support settings.
How long did you wait to pull the body off the fresh plaster?
Only about an hour. It's not really dry, yet, just set solid. But I've left it overnight before on other projects, also releasing easily.
Good day to you, I know this vid was posted 3 years ago. I have the same setup, sbase v1. 3 + tft. Started with smoothieware but it was never perfect. I am now looking at changing to marlin as I cannot get the thermistor inputs to work anymore with smoothie. Checked thermistors, connectors, inputs etc. My sbase just reads - 50 degrees. Going to check if marlin firmware will sort this out. Just a quick question, do I have to alter the firmware for the tft as well or will the base firmware on the screen work as is?
I think the TFT works, as it did in the film clip above, but I ditched the screen a long time ago and use OctoPrint as HMI now. Might transfer the whole lot to Klipper, soon, that might be worth a try too if you're going to change anyway. Good luck!
Hi, do you plan to sell the pcb once you finished it ?
Hi, yes, I can have some more made with this mistake fixed. I've added a view other features, too. If interested, look me up on the speeduino forum, my name there is HugoW.
try lowering your cranking dwell and try 0 degrees cranking advance add some iac air during cranking too if possible, good luck
Nou het is vrij simpel als je het weet Je stelt eerst je A in En met die -5 en 5 is eigenlijk je draad snelheid Omdat je maar een knop heb moet je dat op een manier in kunnen stellen want normaal staat het apparaat gwn voor onder de hand te lassen Als je dan vertikaal omhoog will lassen kan hey zijn dat je teveel draad heb
Can you make a video on how to make these or tell me how to wire the warmer please
Where can i found information about the speeduino, i want to run my vvt with but i don't know which one i should choose etc... thanks !
Look me up on the Speeduino forum, my username is HugoW.
thanks, clear, concise video. thinking of getting a 1.8 vvt so this helped a bunch
Good idea, I am using this path without moving readiator backwards to get some ram-air intake tube. But there was place just on the driver side. Moving radiator backwars can make it possible and short intercooler tubing will be good for quicker spool up. :)
Thnx voor de video. Zit mij suf te zoeken naar een goede uitleg over speeduino op een 1.8 VVT. Ik wil graag mijn originele bekabeling houden, dus het liefst gewoon een 72pin connector op de speeduino. Hoe heb jij dit aangepakt? b.v.d.
Hoi, zoek even op HugoW op het speeduino forum, dan leggen we daar contact.
Hello, I have the same setup Speeduino + 1.8 VVT MX5 04 amd did confront same problem. When I switched to open loop my target angle and actual are then the same.
That would be really weird, but since its not working now I'll give it a shot...
@@Witsenburg Can You find me maybe on Facebook? Name as account here. We will get in touch with those problems I also can't understand closed loop idle control.
@@driftmate4871 I'm not very Fakebooky, I am active on the forum:speeduino.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=4413&p=47751#p47751
You should change your radiator. When they go brown, they usually split. Also a good place for the IAT is in the plastic pipe just after the filter.
Thanks! Yes, a (upgraded) radiator is on order, should arrive any day now. The IAT is indeed in the plastic pipe at the moment, will be in the intercooling piping just before the throttle valve when all is done.
Great idea! Thanks for sharing... I did the same with plates and it has quick saved me!!! Thanks a lot! Greatings from South Brazil!
Nice one :)
this is great job done!
Instablaster
The heat of the regulator won't burn the pcb?? I think this may work but the heatsink thighten to the pcb is not a good idea
Didn't work. Would not power up the ramps or arduino. Just made the chip hot.