Video

The welds at the bungs are almost always large enough that they put a lot of stress in the metal. I stay as far as i can from those. At least 8 to 10 inches. Place a straight edge along the bungs and you see the tank dip down near them. That's from the welds.

@@mysticsmokers3014 it only had just one

@@mysticsmokers3014 can it be fixed

If you are joking, I'll laugh and move on. If not, I'll respond more critically: It's hard to believe anyone would be critical in a narrative so heavily littered with typographical errors. Pick your response. 🙂🙂🙂

Are you telling me that you have built and flown an identical model with slab and airfoil tail surfaces? Please show me your examples of such an experiment. I have done so on several models. Go to the fb page for this series and you can see examples. I've built many airfoil tail surface setups. On these scales, there is absolutely no difference other than appearance. Once we get bigger in scale and start designing for precision flight, of course, a bit cleaner tail helps. In addition, it gives us a clean mounting point for the elevator servos. As far as misleading viewers, please provide some direct evidence of your claims. That's a pretty stout accusation without any supporting evidence other than the fact that many ARF kits are built that way. I'm looking forward to any meaningful documentation you can provide. Thanks for the comment.

@mikencrcf6018 The aircraft you build are very basic. You use stab tails because they are easy to reproduce and install. I get that. But don't tell others that airfoil tails don't fly better. That's a ridiculous statement. Why not slab wings then lol. I've been building and flying for 37 years. Why would I make a statement like this if it wasn't back by all the leading rc aircraft designer's. Planes like the Lanier Stingers series went out with the dinosaur. That's pretty much what you're building. And yes, I've built and flown those in all sizes. Even foam airplanes have flying tails lol. Experienced pilots can feel the difference. I'm not sure what kind of evidence you need. Look around you things changed for a reason. You are just bitter because I called you out on it. This is CZcams. People have opinions. You don't have to get bent out of shape when someone voices one.

Each wing half is 35.5" long. This makes the wing span 71" plus the fuse width. That's not absolutely critical on a plane with such a large wing. I could add or subtract two inches, and you'd likely never see a difference. The goal of this wing is to get the loading way down to fly super slow with confidence.

I have them professionally sandblasted.

Im glad you enjoyed it!!! I broke the tail off that plane. I'll be doing the fuse replacement video this coming week or so.

A cnc router would be an easy project. However, for this project, very few guys would have access to cnc. If I were selling parts, cnc would be the way to go. I've used my buddies cnc on occasion. It's not as easy to draw the parts as one would think. I can make the template faster in many cases. Once made, you see how fast it goes. I may build one in the future.

Forget that! I saw you had a separate video for that process!

Thanks for the kind words!

Wow. I can't imagine using wood. That wood be extremely difficult. You still need to fill and smooth the wood grain. The tiniest dimple or scratches show up on the part. You would still need to topcoat and sand a wood blank a couple of times even if you somehow managed to get the carving perfect in shape. If you're not producing perfectly smooth parts, wood may be an option. I work with wood every day. There's no way to produce such a perfect shape and get it smooth to this level with wood without many hours of work. In addition, it would be way outside the skill set of a hobbyist.

Thanks buddy!!!

That's great to hear. I hope you enjoy the series. I'm looking forward to getting back in the shop.

No.. liteply is 3 layers. The two outside layers are poplar and the inside is balsa. It's often sold as Bending Ply. It's easy to find

Great question: I've found that some filler eats foam and some does not. Even if it does, it's not bad at all. I coat the foam with a very light coat of epoxy to avoid problems if the filler I have doesn't like foam.

She's an Australian Shepherd. In fact, both of those dogs are ausies.

@@mysticsmokers3014 Very nice dogs a friend has one but she’s skittish she must be an odd one then lol. Sad to see you don’t do RC videos anymore the RC plane series is what brought me to your channel. Did you end up finishing the series? I can’t find the video that explained the motor and RC components trying to get that figured out.

@jessebreyer709 I need to get back on that series. I had some cooker deadlines get in the way of the rc series for a bit. Cookers pay for the planes, so they take priority. Now that it's so hot, I'll do more work in the wood shop.

@@mysticsmokers3014 even a quick video showing under the hood and explaining what’s making what happen that would help me and I’m sure many others because I can’t seem to find one

I take a toothpick or similar pointy stick and put a small dab of Vaseline on the knuckle. Only a tiny bit. Then, use your heat gun to gently heat the Vaseline. It will very quickly wick into the knuckle. The key is not to use too much and dont get it where the glue will go. Also, clean constantly like you see me do in the video. Cleaning is sooooooo important as you go. Keep swapping out the little paper towel pads.

Im not sure what you by the pending request. I will have to trace those templates and have them scanned a print shop. I just haven't had time to do that. I'll try to get that done this week. Do you have a way to print them on a large scal printer like at a print shop?

Can you build it like in the video?

It's not hard at all to make your own canopies. I have two of the three-part series on CZcams already. I hope to have the fianal episode finished in a week or so. czcams.com/video/1orKJht5Kik/video.html

This is more than you asked for, but here's my take on tools in general. If you want your doors to remain flat, heat is the enemy. Plasma cutters and torches induce far too much heay into the sheet metal, which is the tank/door. As that metal cools, it shrinks and distorts. Too much welding will have the same effect. I use the minimal amount of weld that I can use to hold the door bands in place. More welds will curl the door up in the corners just a bit. I try to run a weld a bit downhill when I can. That allows for a faster/cooler weld. Obviously, this is not preferred for high stress areas like leg or feet attachment points or during a trailer build. I use a metal cutting saw to make the door cuts. It's specifically for cutting metal. Currently, I'm using the little Dewalt 20v metal saw or the Evosaw230. I use an angle grinder with a 1.2mm blade to start the cut about 5 inches. This avoids the dangerous "plung" cut with the saw. These "cold cut" saws are the best way to avoid distortion in sheet metal while cutting.. I use my plasma cutter for cutting the firebox throat. That could very easily be done with the torche, and honestly, it would do as well if not better. Don't get wrong, I love my plasma cutter, and I use it for other jobs, but there are not a lot of uses for it while building smokers. I know they are "sexy," but they are absolutely not the tool to be spending money on. My carbide chop saw is the workhorse of the shop. Without it, I'm dead in the water. High-quality 4.5" angle grinders are next. I recommend at least two to avoid downtime switching from cutter to sanding disc. I use 36, 80, and 100 grits depending on the task. Changing the disc often is the key. Don't try to squeeze life from a disc.. it delays the work and heats things up. If you dont have a metal saw, using a 4.5-inch grinder with a 1/16" or 1.2mm cut-off wheel is the way to go. It's not sexy and it's not fast, but it will go a long way to helping your doors stay flat. One could comfortably build the entire cooker with an angle grinder, cut-off saw, torche, and, of course, a welder. I would prioritize my tool spending as follows buying the highest quality I could afford: 1. Mig welder. Don't be cheap here. A cheap welder makes things so much more difficult. It will take about $2.4k to get in the acceptable level, in my opinion. $4k to get to get in the workhorse category for sustainable work. That's a basic mig, not a multifunction welder. 2. Chop saw. Carbide is the only way to go. I use the Evolution 380. It has literally made thousands of cuts, and it performs like day one. (They do not pay me) 3. 4.5" angle grinders. One set up for cutting, the other for sanding/grinding. (Not with a grinding wheel. I hate those things. A sanding disc is safer, cleaner, and easier to use). This is another tool that comes with the "cheap: warning. I love my little Dewalt grinders. They are 6 years old and get used hard every day. Often times, 7 days a week. I've been low tier brands, and they dont last a year in my shop. A weak grinder is so aggravating. I recommend two of the same models. You will use them so much that muscle memory is important. (Again, they do not pay me) I love my green and red tools, but their angle grinders have never been my choice. 4. Squares and measuring devices. Obviously, I have a lot of shop fixtures and jigs that make my job easier and safer. With significant neck and back issues, many of those tools are invaluable. However, a strong, healthy guy/gal could do just fine without many of them. I did for many years. However, looking back, it probably would have saved years on my back. Don't hesitate to reach out from the mysticsmokers.com website or these videos if I can help further.

@Mystic Smokers thank you for replying. I'm in a very fortunate situation where a very successful local smoke shop owner want to partner up with me in building commercial pit smokers. I'm a certified pipefitter/welder/BBq enthusiast. But your videos have helped with alot of questions. I'm actually surprised that the plasma cutter would make that much of a difference in warpage. But I'm sure you would know from all the experience in making these smokers. Which looks awesome, BTW. We're probably gonna start building around August of this year. Do you use a plasma table for hinges?

@jesse8435 No sir. My hinges are laser cut. The accuracy is +/- .002" and the edges are very crips and clean. Pasma tables have their place but on hardware, in my opinion. Plamsa cut hardware needs to be cleaned on a sander/grinder. That scores the material which shows up on a painted surface. I could use the laser or P table for cutting larger parts, but no two cookers are quite the same, and NOTHING is ever really round. I prefer to make cardboard templates and cut larger parts with the plamsa by hand.

@jesse8435 Oh, I forgot to address heat from plasma. I have absolutely warped my share of doors with the plasma cutter. I have a good enough cutter (Miller 625 Extreme) and I really wanted it to work. I've tried all tips and settings. The longer and wider the door, the more distortion adds up to raise a corner. Keep in mind that if the door moves, the tank has moved too.

I'm digging out my shop as I type this. You wouldn't recognize it. Everything got piled in there while I built the welding shop. I literally can't see the table saw and every flat surface has stuff stacked on it. Getting motivated to move all this to the storage containers has been tough.

I'm glad you are enjoying the series. Thanks.

Lol. Perhaps I'll do that at some point. Thanks