Video

Jup I know, I was disappointed too :-( it's just a vibrator in disguise

Thx you for your service

God bless you 🙏

I'll have a 2-part video linked to this one in a little while when it's finished processing. czcams.com/users/livefSSqF1AAovY Unfortunately links are not clickable on mobile CZcams. Blame Turbocancer Susan W., for focusing exclusively on censorship instead of usability. Lucky for us, she got the shot.

Thanks, you sure saved me a lot of trouble. The rubber backflow gasket on mine was deformed. Couldn't find parts. Like you mentioned , has 2 check valves anyway. Wouldn't be there to pressurize the inlet to the carb because the piston/cylinder isn't sealed anyway. Great job on the video. PS: I put the spring retainer on first just below the 2 holes and moved it up in place when I had the washer depressed.

Very cool

The standard valve is a Milton S-614-2 1/8" valve cock, and works on all your N-series tractors. However these 172CID engines, like on the 800-series, have an oil filter housing in the way. Use Gates Green-Line tubing for best heat resistance, or TYGON tubing, in 1/4". Parts in the description.

4-minute video with still photos and longer explanation. Click on the link at the bottom of the Short.

See the description also. Photos of wiring harness connections, diagrams: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-1ZgEbbDfRI22WOy7YQN9sOxmM-PtwGU

Parts: Look on ebay for LED Power Supply 10w (3-12v), and one of the Panaflow 120mm 12v 0.25a fans. This one is a 'medium speed', there are low speed models that are even quieter. Wirefy crimps, generic crimper. Soldering iron and heatshrink. Several Panaflow 12cm and 8cm fans will work. The 12v/0.25a use about 3 watts max, while running, while significantly cooling the compressor. Your entire chest freezer typically uses 80 watts while running, in comparison. You will have to periodically clean the compressor area more, as the fan will blow in/out dust. Which is one reason why manufacturers of residential units do not add these, even though there are usually available terminal connections on the wiring block. If no terminal block, cut and strip the white and yellow compressor power wires, and butt joint them back together, including the power supplies' blue wire to white, and brown wire to yellow.

3-pin connector from the start/stop handlebar switch, and a 4-pin connector from a switch on the same assembly, but I don't know what it does and it's not labelled. They both just dangle under the left side of the fuel tank. I need to remove the hacked changes the PO made and set it back the way it's supposed to be. If you have a similar MOTO4 or Big Bear, please comment!

Quick smoked porkchops on a biolite stove. Using just applewood chips. See description.

Heat may be a bit high buddy

1 is your common, 2 is your switched load, 3 is the neon lamp.

C quelle race ?

Awwe cute

Correct: I misspoke saying '2 AA's'. I meant '2 D's'. Also, zinc carbon batteries might be better if you use the unit infrequently, vs alkaline.

Thanks a lot for your video, it was really clear and simple to follow, the same problem than you is just fix now, 👍

There is a small black box, bonded to the solar panel underside. It has a female port, dongle/pigtail for 12v, with USB ports on either side. Shove some silicone plumbers/dielectric grease in the USB ports, so rain does not get in. The link is in the description. The wire adapters to cigarette port and clamp, that it comes with, are ~ 22g and poorer quality than the panel. I replaced the included male cable, with an inline fuse and heaver more durable cable, because that lid pinches the wire everytime a little bit. It has a 2 amp standard automotive fuse installed.

So cute 😊❤

😌😍🥰

Dumor brand (TSC) calf milk replacer: whey protein and whey powder, vitamins and minerals. Plus raw eggs, fresh! 😊

Dumor calf milk replacer: whey protein, whey powder, vitamins and minerals. Blended with fresh raw eggs from the farm. They are too young for solid food. Almost! The mom and dad were raised on grain free, soy free, 'vegetable oil' free real foods. Primarily beef, chicken and flax. Puppies are very healthy - no veterinarian needed! There is no regulation on what goes into 'dog food', and usually the primary ingredient is cheap grains, followed by industrial lubrication and fuel oils; that's the garbage like Canola, Rape, Cotton etc.

I would hope that's broth on some oatmeal. What is the stuff?

Puppies: "Damn mom, stop hogging it! 😭😭"

Don't you mean drinking. Looks like more muddy water than food

Parts: 33108 Gates thermostat. 70233153 smooth 1.5x10" radiator hose (unknown mfg). Dayco 81301 1-3/4x10" radiator hose. Silicon / diaelectric grease, hose clamps. Preassembly display of parts: czcams.com/users/shortsJ18C66Qr7J0

Parts: 33108 Gates thermostat. Part# 70233153 smooth 1.5x10" radiator hose (unknown mfg). Dayco 81301 1-3/4x10" radiator hose. Finished video: czcams.com/users/shortscjHMm9kbuaY

I will post a long version later, on how to upgrade your side-by-side to add these features and more.

Wouldn't that o-ring seal the plunger to the body preventing the pump from leaking if the pump was run in a parallel application for an electric and mechanical pump? The poppet valves prevent back flow during operation as the pump is allowed some inefficiency, but there is no perfect seal between the plunger and the plunger tube when the pump is turned off, right?

UPDATE: The OEM, that CHINESE GARBAGE [US SOLID] is copying, is EHCOTECH. EHCOTECH have been in business over 10 years in the U.S. market. Their version of this solenoid is the "1/2" Motorized Ball Valve N/O 9V 12V to 24 VDC/VAC 2-wire Stainless SS EPDM", current ebay listing is #301904928622. Their ebay Seller name is Valves4Projects. I got a very intelligent, well-worded response from them, the following morning, when writing with questions about these two products, and asking about the differences between them. Taking apart the solenoid in the video, coupled with some assortment of probes from a multi-meter kit, I was able to remove the connector, that contains the wiring harness for the limit switches and the motor (Blue & Yellow wires). Removing the gear assembly and the first driven gear, so the motor could spin freely, I applied 4v of power, and the motor did nothing. The silkscreen on the motor is a 340-4B-5V, if I remember. It's 24mm wide, and has 3 evenly-spaced machine screw fasteners holding it in. The replacement motor seems to be Amazon ASIN B07DD9FP3G, "Antrader DC Motor Mini 5V 6000RPM Electric Motor with Wire for DIY Toys - Pack of 3", for $8. A 3-pack of replacement motors is $8. When I fully-disassemble the US SOLID, I will make a video about it, clear a workspace, etc. Then you can see the repair/replacement of the motor in detail, with a detailed tear-down.

wow

That didn't make massive sense mate.can you make it clearer?

Im live on yhis channel

its bruno my new C sub

Facet.......Faucet is on the seenk

I don't know if I'm crazy or slower than mud but I can't pull up the schematics.

Could this router be configured to RECEIVE the wireless signal from my actual router, thus allowing me to plug an ethernet cable into it to connect my old TV to the internet? So it would get the signal wirelessly instead of via coax

I forgot to mention. The easy way to reinstall the spring clip that holds the valve in place is to put the spring in first, slightly below where the ends will go into the two holes that secure it. Then install the valve. Hold it down with your finger tip and with a pair of needle nose pliers pull the ends of the clip up into the holes. Simple. After reassembly the pump can be quickly tested by jumping 12V across the connections (assuming it is a 12V pump). The polarity is stamped into one of the two mounting brackets. These pumps were available in both positive and negative ground and also for 24V applications. Oh, and BTW. Bendix was a US company so the dimensions are best measured in Imperial units, not metric.

This pump design was first produced by Bendix Corp and was acquired by facet a couple of decades ago. There are possibly dozens of models that have been used in aircraft engines, Jaguar and Land Rover cars, all sorts of US cars and tractors. New ones are available that are now manufactured in China. (You can buy a Bendix label to stick on your Facet(?) branded pump to make it look original.The design is simple and very reliable. I had one on my Cessna so you can be sure they are reliable. Just about all parts are interchangeable but the spring determines the fuel pressure. Most operate between 2 and 6.5 PSI. Most typical engines with carburetors are happy with around 4 psi. The carburetor usually has the filter shown in the video. It is a 'service item' and expected to be replaced or cleaned periodically. Car owners and mechanics rarely know this so do nothing until the pump fails to deliver enough fuel as the filter becomes clogged. Modern gasoline supplies tend to be very clean but ... They often contain ethanol which will destroy the edge of the rubber seal and begin to leak if the particles don't clog the filter first. Any small aircraft parts or service supplier will carry the service kit. The pumps have to be serviced regularly per FAA regulations. But their price is always high due to the cost of all the paperwork and certification involved in making and installing parts in aircraft. I have found the Pegasus Auto racing Supplies carry the parts individually and are priced lower than the aircraft equivalent. Facet (nee Bendix) fuel pumps were used extensively in Cobras, Ferrari, Alfa Romeo and many other race cars and motorcycles that are now considered historic and I'm very happy that Pegasus sell these parts so I can keep my old cars running. Oh, even boat engines have used this pump. Sadly we have become a nation of component re placers. Mechanics don't dissemble and repair. They just install a new whatever. Engine, gearbox, computer, fuel pump, etc. As such finding the internal components is all but impossible without buying a complete pump. If anyone finds a source for the internal pump parts please list it here.

Hey i need a hand i installed my correctly with power and it connects to my phone, the mic works but no sound comes out any help?

This is the most worthless video CZcams the sheer rapid movement of the item and there is a complete lack of good camera angle showing with all the components are where they're hooked up he's just a glossing over each component which makes this virtually useless unless you slow the video down to make notes as he rapidly moves from one thing to the next

Do you have a link to the low flow sensor? I'm having issues with a new unit (different brand) and it is definitely that my flow is too low to sustain operation and cuts off after a minute or less as my flow dips just under the initial pressure.

How to you install the horn and switch for the horn?

Can you tell me where you bought the rebuild kit,thank you

How do you know if its bad? I have a Onan 4kw generator with one of these and it works fine till I start the RV then it dumps fuel out the carburetor. Could this be a bad electric fuel pump?

No way I'm messing with all this. I just want my router to recognize my phone☹️

None of this works. After you enter the Network settings and hit apply the router just hangs permanently. If you change anything other than the wifi name and wifi password these routers brick and you have to have a hard reset. These units will never work as an AP. You can go through the steps and pretend this might work all you want, but it never will. Notice how he skips hitting the "apply" button in network settings in this tutorial doesn't bother showing you how the router fails afterwards.

Hi , what model is this ?