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Sam's Garage
Registrace 17. 11. 2009
Suzuki J20 Timing Chain Replacement
Replacing the timing chains and tensioners on a 2007 Suzuki Grand VItara 2.0 J20 engine in car. This engine is found in lots of other Suzukis as well like Vitara and SX4. I did not include every step here as I missed some footage and it got very long anyway.
zhlédnutí: 6 894
Video
DIY: Oil Seal Removal Tool
zhlédnutí 1,1KPřed 2 lety
Sometimes oil seals can be hard to get out, especially if the axle is in place and cannot be removed. If prying with something You risk damaging the surfaces! I originally made this tool for such a case (rear main seal) but it works well enough that i prefer to use it even if the axle is out of the way, as demonstrated in this video.
Toyota Corolla E120 - Driveshaft oil seal replacement
zhlédnutí 8KPřed 2 lety
Replacing the left side driveshaft oil seal on a Toyota Corolla E120 (2002-2007) with manual transmission, 1.4 / 1.6 litre engine. Also changing the gear oil. You will need a 30 mm 12 point socket for the hub nut, otherwise no special tools required. Torque specs: Driveshaft/hub nut: 216 Nm / 159 lbf ft Balljoint to control arm bolt/nut: 142 Nm / 105 lbf ft Wheel nuts: 103 Nm / 76 lbf ft
HOW TO: Fix a car door that won't stay open
zhlédnutí 2,4KPřed 2 lety
Does Your car door close by itself or barely stay open? Here I show how to fix that for free with no special tools required! I have done this successfully on Mazdas and Suzukis but it should be almost identical on most brands. The spacer used in the video is metal but plastic works as well, whatever You have laying around.
Manual Tire Changer with Duckbill
zhlédnutí 82KPřed 2 lety
Here's my version of the manual tire changer with the duckbill mod. This changer is a bit different to the Harbor freight version so it requires a bit more modifications, but works in the same way once done. It's sold in various places here in Finland, mine is branded "Torin Big Red". Parts used for mods: Duckbill: www.aliexpress.com/item/33043386827.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef18027m8EG0...
Hub motor problem
zhlédnutí 44KPřed 6 lety
E-bike hub motor problem, 500W geared hub, here testing without the wheel and gears. UPDATE: This video was originally just to show the symptoms and ask for help with the problem. The problem was one of the hall sensors! In the video I used a heat gun which made the faulty sensor work (temporarily). The only solution is to replace the hall sensor!
Is this kit the same for a j18a? Thanks!
Yes it should be
Leftvside cv axile
16:43 too many pieces and tools for my tastes. One thing is the TWO locating screws(?!) for the adjustable sleeve, for example. And the adjustable wrench for wheel center locating bolts - needs to be studs or welded nuts with tapered lug bolts like a trailer or bmw.
Just the spacers would have been sufficient. Grinding the guides was really a waist of time. In fact grinding the big flat side of the spacer that rides the arm just makes it looser and then causes you to need a thicker spacer but nice video anyways
They were worn flat, so I tried to grind them back to original form with a ridge in the middle which would catch better on the metal part. But yes, the spacers are probably enough to make it work.
Yes Sam I suppose we are both right I guess it just depends on who's doing the repair if they are qualified to attempt to grind it or they could get their selves in trouble real quick
❤Thanks for sharing Sir … remember if both tensioner have gaskets?
No gasket on the lower tensioner!
Cheers lad this has given me the confidence to do mine
What were the symptoms that lead you to change it?
write the number of the new part
I hit the beat breaker with a mallet against the tire couple times when in the middle of pulling down and it works every time.
Excellent! I'm about to do the same job. Nice reference and with most of the torque specs too - thanks!
i couldn,t hear anything
Question for you Sam I'm doing this job on my Chevy tracker the only problem is, I have that the cam shaft chain has slack at the top even with the tensioner on. Do you think my tensioner is broken? Even though I bought it brand new.
@@charlieibkiss4068 At 10:42 in the video you can see the slack, that's the old chain of course but I'd say it's about the same in the new. There is no "ratchet" in the upper tensioner so it doesn't do much when no oil pressure is present
@@SamsGarage_Re
I find that if I slip the tire back so that the arm of the bead breaker is going straight down at minimum or just slightly outward toward the rim. That keeps it from kicking out like that. Also using the hole closest to the changer will give you more leverage but sometimes the width of the tire will not allow using it. No matter which hole you use its the arm angle that keeps it from kicking out. Love that duckbill mod. That's a must have to eliminate scratching.
nice !!
Try some dish soap and water it makes it a lot easier to dismount and mount tires. Myself I'd do some modifications to that bead breaker like mounting an old scissors jack to stand use an impact or reversible drill save your back and shoulders on breaking the bead...
At Walmart, mounting tires cost like $11 per wheel. And you do it once in 5-6 years..... So here is that.
$11.00 and 5-6 hours lol
Nice upgrade on the tire too! 👌
Показал и рассказал отлично, но в конце я ждал всё таки куда заливать масло. И не маловажно замена славного и заливного болта. 👍
why not put the bar inside the cross tube it would give you more leverage
weld a flat strip of metal to your bar this will help the bar you use to spin the the duck bill around , to keep the bar more stable on the round vertical piece , Round pipe on round pipe is a pain and welding a flat strip prevents the bar you hold from slipping,
The one that you just took off the rim
Hey i need a used 225/70r16 inch tire
Have center cone but too small for Mercedes rims, works with others kike ford and audi.
looks like the bead breaker is on reversed
Adding to the bead breaking part I watched someone else struggle with the bead breaking until he moved the tire out from the centre a few inches. It caused the nose of the bead breaker to drive itself in towards the rim as the user pushes downward on the bar. The bar containing the bead breaker nose moves out at an angel by quite a bit. I haven't purchase or done it myself yet. Soap and water may add to the ease. See what you think.
Perfekt gemacht:)
You sound like Peter Finn.
My man you might want to really anchor the manual tire changer to the concrete to stop it from moving I thought you would get better results what breaking the beads
I BOLT MY MACHINE TO A HEAVY PALLET AND THEN STAND ON IT
Relocate your Bead Breaker tool to the first hole closest to the tire machine. It will go in against the rim and won’t slip out.
Aboustely pointless 😂
Oh that sucks I see the problem already that thing wants to slide off the bead while you’re pressing down!!
What size center cone ?
bolt it to the floor, you will be so much happier 😜
Breaker middle hole
Is that a harbor freight tool?
Take the valve stem core out,much easier. Other wise your pushing against the air pressure.
I guess you missed the part before he broke the bead where there was a loud hiss due to him removing the valve core hub?
How to fix: 1. Dispose of hub motor 2. Buy a mid drive motor
My new hub motor spins in reverse, any suggestions?
Turn it around
Switch the wires
You have to push those outer magnets back in, after putting mileage on the wheel, they will loosen. You can apply super glue in the thin spaces in-between each one, make sure not to let the adhesive spill on anything else. Youd probably be better off using epoxy adhesive for a longer lasting fix, so the magnets stay locked into the motor.
Nice tool 👌🇬🇧
Had the same and one of the phase wires was burnt loose in the controller. It was due to hall sensor failure in the hub motor though.
Jerky camera movements ate essence of possibly knowledgeable video
a phase is not of the 3
It needs a better bead breaker got mine fixed I can break the bead down first try. Watching you trying to break the bead is wearing me out
So frustrating to watch you try and break the bead. Hopefully you'll learn to move the tire farther away, so the breaker is not at a 90-degree angle from the rim. Suppose to push on the bead and not the sidewall. Should be able to push both sides of in one try.
Okay so my new harbor freight tool broke immediately on an old tire. It couldn’t even break the bead. It slanted side ways on the second try. I see yours has a welded piece of metal bridging the gap between the two legs of the debeader.
Yes, I added that as reinforcement because it was so flimsy, no problem since!
What is that seal called
Where to buy that centre cone? Please provide link
ootko ite tehny tuon muovisen pään vai saako niitä jostakin???