Video

thanks! if the client didn’t like it, then i would kindly suggest taking them off next time or we would move in a more front lit direction to fill in those shadows

it was crazy how much it added. when i was initially setting the room up it just felt empty and i wasn't sure what was missing. no lie when I turned it on I was like OHHHH yeah this looks wayyyyy better haha

Ah thank you. That is incredibly humbling to hear. Really appreciate the encouragement and support 🙏

Glad it was helpful for you even though you mostly use it for photo. Fun lil cam for sure yeah the 10 bit looks amazing

Interesting notes on the ibis. I would also have it off when shooting photos to save battery

Great questions. In this version I did some light color grading just to dial everything in and make it look as good as possible. I plan to have a version that is straight from the Atem with no color correction and no audio editing and then another version that has some color correction and additional audio editing. The hope would then be to pitch to clients giving them two options at different price points. Depending on their niche I think a lot of clients would be more than thrilled with the unedited versions as they still look and sound great (plus then less post production for me). As far as the XT5, no issues using it indoor for longer recording. Our AC was actually off for an entire episode and it was 84 degrees inside. We went for an hour and a half with no issues. As far as outdoors, I have not done enough testing with the xt5. Hope that helps!

Love it. Glad to hear it!

Thanks so much! Appreciate you letting me know

MF always in these scenarios, especially with multiple subjects. Did my best to set the focus in between both of them so one didn’t look sharp and the other blurry

Glad it was helpful 🤘🏼

yeah its interesting. not sure about a full review at the moment. downside of it for me is that it only accepts an HD signal. The XH2S can't send an HD clean feed (only 4k), in which the device can't accept. You then have to send the info data which drops the resolution and is not then great for showing a client. IMO it's great for the scenario in this video (coming out of an HD monitor) or for filming yourself. Not great for a directors/client monitor if using the XH2S.

@@blasepivovar Thank you for this information 👌

haha. I was told ahead of time to expect hats all around

was thinking the exact same thing. like guys. at least flip the caps around smhhhh lol

@@AeonGotBeats lol

So cool! Yeah they "work" but you cannot control them with the black magic software or trigger stop start. It is just pulling the HDMI feed. From there, swapping out the atem recorded "proxies" with the full res I record in camera will take a few extra steps but overall works pretty well.

@@blasepivovar okay neat! That’s alright. Thanks brother, I appreciate you!

Thanks dude! Having your cam was clutch 🙂

Thanks dawg! Do you guys do a lot of podcasts?

@@blasepivovar of course! Y'all killed this. I haven't yet, but this makes me want to get into it! Looks like a ton of fun.

F2.8 - I actually listed all the settings next to each camera in the video :)

@@blasepivovar ah I totally missed that, thank you!

Have never used the XH1 but yeah does look pretty similar on paper

ah. just remembered. 10 bit in the XT3 is the obvious choice for me. If IBIS is wanted then the XT4 I would still choose over the XH1

@@blasepivovar Gotcha, makes sense.

in my experience, the settings will change when switching between photo and video modes on my fuji cameras

ef mount with adapter to x mount

thanks so much! glad to hear you enjoy the camera as well!

ah nice! that is a great set

Yeah i think for these it was all at zero. Have experimented with -4 as well but mostly just leave it at 0

@@blasepivovar thanks! Yeah Ive experimented after your suggestion and I noticed leaving it at 0 also helped take some of the over sharpened edge of.

Thanks! Yeah there is a whole video I made about the situation and potential solutions to prevent it moving forward. Curious to hear more on why powering via USB C isn’t “widely held.” Are there other videos or articles that explain more?

Thank you! Appreciate the kind words

Interesting. The AF has always worked great for me but that said I have not updated to the latest firmware after hearing about folks having issues. I personally just wait to update firmware for good while until others report back about bugs. Same goes for mac os, Davinci Resolve, or anything else I rely on for work.

Ah so glad to hear it! So glad to hear several videos have been helpful to you. Appreciate the kind words and you letting me know 🫱🏻‍🫲🏼

Thanks so much. Yeah totally agree. Glad to have found these products that work really well!

The screws were just ones that fit that I had lying around. I am not sure on the size as they are probably different with my plate being from Nitze. The pads are simply the rubber earbud tips from headphones that I also had lying around. Hope that helps!

@@blasepivovar haha bro that is awesome. Straight up Pro-Grade DIY. Thanks man, that helped a ton!

@@Eyeofkamau@blasepivovar I just got the ulanzi v2 fan in and was wondering how the heck I was supposed to fix it in place. Thank you to you both 😎

It’s $200 brother. I have the ulanzi fan for the same reason. It gets the job done and is around 70% cheaper. The fuji fan is wildly overpriced, though I would like to buy it used someday!

Yeah just was curious about trying the cheap one as I haven't seen many folks using it

Linked in my most recent rig build video but here you go as well! amzn.to/4bBFEoA

You bet!

Check the comments of that video but in short, I now just follow the protocol common for SDI - "last in, first out" as it seems to be the most sure way to prevent something from happening. And then in addition, I now use several of the items in this video to help cables stay locked in :)

always

@@blasepivovar so beautiful! Keep going bro!!!

Yep, you got it! Glad to hear it was helpful.

I haven't but i'll make note one doing one in the future. i don't do a lot that really requires timecode - usually davinci can just auto sync everything for me via waveform with no issues

@@blasepivovar yes i use it also and it works fine. Thanks man

chapters always 🙂

im sure either adapter would work great but yeah dont have personal experience using lenses that long on my fuji

Thank you

Glad to hear it 🙏🏽

Glad to hear it was helpful! Thank you 🙏🏽

Appreciate the input! I usually get at least one comment every color grading in this lane. I think for a lot of folks, especially those starting out, a color managed workflow wouldn’t really do them much service but there are advantages for sure in setting up your project in that way. For most projects I am working on, I have got noticed any major differences in using a non color managed workflow but there is a time and place for it for sure.

Thanks so much! Glad to hear the videos have been helpful 🫡

Thanks so much! I actually mention all the settings at the beginning per how I am getting consistent exports without gamma shifts so make sure and double check those (rec709a is the move). I also have a whole video on my preferred export settings. Let me know if you still need help after checking both those out.

@@blasepivovar yup I saw the part at the beginning, just wanted to see if you were changing anything else on the “deliver” page, I’ll look for your export settings video. Ran some tests last night using these settings though and it worked great so thanks again, finally some consistency!

Not sure of your exact question but I do understand your observation. I shoot a good amount of projects in both LOG as well as Rec709 - as do a lot of folks - just depends on the expectations for the job, desired workflow, time for turn around, etc. I think I could have shot all of these Rec 709 but I do think I would have ended up with images I like less in the higher dynamic range scenes. So is it worth the hassle? Everyone will have to decide for themselves. For me, grading these with my LUTs was extremely fast and I love the image. As someone who gets hired to color grade jobs for others, I’d always take a LOG image vs a baked in Rec 709 as there is more flexibility to take the grade different directions. Just some thoughts and hope it helps!

There won’t be an easily noticeable difference if the footage wasn’t shot in a high contrast environment or the files aren’t being pushed to the point where the difference would be noticeable. There is certainly a difference though. Fuji XH2s rec709 readsout at 10bit while flog 2 is a 14bit readout, and you can see the difference in the shadows quite easily.

@@blasepivovar Thank you for the response. I'm not a videographer but have been a portrait photographer for decades so I do Understand the Raw vs. Baked advantage. For example, I never shoot jpeg but only process raws for the latitude. I was a bit confused as to why someone would go the extra mile for nearly the same results. Most clientele will never see the difference. Thanks again for some clarification and have a great day!

@@Eyeofkamau Understood. I guess for me to fully understand, I'll have to take the bull by the horns myself and attempt some grading in Davinci. I'm a noob so I can only imagine it will be frustration trying to color grade vs. the Rec709. I'll take some footage on my XT5 over the coming days. Hopefully, wont pull my hair out attempting to color grade. Thanks so much for the input.

🙋🏼‍♂️

i was stoked after switching to resolve and haven’t looked back

@@blasepivovar Only downside is the money I have spent on Motion VFX plugins for FCP.

@@blasepivovar I have been wanting to make the switch out of Premiere. Please yell at me and tell me to just do it! I shoot in Flog-2.

@@theinfinitepassportTV hahaha DO IT

Thanks Benjamin! Glad to hear it was helpful

czcams.com/video/r5XqYMK1vE4/video.html

ya I LOVE they are finally adding Flog-2 support however not sure it will change my workflow too much

​@@blasepivovarrecord the updated video maybe? Would be first on youtube.

thank you! i wish there was an easy answer but it really depends. in general, when filming in flog or flog 2, I would try to always stick to as low of an iso if possible. for all these scenarios i was at ISO1250. if you are overexposing your image without clipping, you will get washed out skin tones before pulling the data back in node 1 like all my examples here. best practice for getting it right in camera would be to monitor your image on an external monitor using a lut that mimics the adjustments you would make to pull back the image in post. I made some pretty easy by using fuji’s conversion lut and then adding a node before it that pulls back the offset in varying amounts. Hope that helps!

czcams.com/video/r5XqYMK1vE4/video.htmlsi=9ppAXlNNq4PGycqZ here is that video for more context