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if anyone is attempting to do this with the AllTop Twin Cylinder compressor, the 1/8" to 1/8" extender is way too small for that hole. Apparently all of these compressors aren't the same with different names.

You sir are a legend. Many people have videos on this but your setup is the simplest. A lot of people add jumper cables

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Oetiker clamps

Awesome setup thanks for sharing I need to make one also configure it to use with my semi truck 10 tires it would be great again thanks again

These compressors are now black, and NAPA-branded. I just picked one up for $122.

The end caps are NOT meant to be removed. Just slide the insert back toward the center, lift up and pull out. Install the same way in reverse. Not sure how he got the end caps off but they are meant to be fixed.

When it rains this car is SO dangerous. Damn thing hydroplanes on me. I try not to drive at all. Thankfully I’m in Cali

The factory unit has a pressure relief switch built into the inline gauge which you deleted, I'm not sure if I just missed it, but where did you put it on yours as it's a very important safety item? Thanks

Just bypass that board.

you're right about the OEM blades. They don't last as long as you'd think. My just completely broke in pieces. Had to order aftermarket that are made out of silicone.

I totally agree with the analog gauge vs digital. not convenient to deal with dead or corroded batteries

If you have a clay bar kit or one you didnt fully use, spray some lubricant on the windshield and use the clay bar on the windshield. Then use a ceramic coating on it and it'll keep your windshield nice and clean for a good while

Cutting those red wires right from the middle was a big mistake I have seen other videos And what they did they use a different method

Make sure the thread sealant is completely dry before testing it, also u can use a silicon caulk instead of the thread sealant just make its dry before using it. ALuminum manifolds are good but they tend to leak at times specially if u over tight the fittings, due softer nature of aluminum they tend to expand and or crack.

Wow sir great job tremendous explanation and great attitude your a rock star my good guy thanks I’m doing exactly what your explaining wow A+

Thanks for posting!

rather than cutting the wire from the back of the switch, why not unplug the connector and put it on the pressure switch?

Great write up. I bought all the parts you suggested. I really appreciated your follow up Update as well. Any new updates?

All that to fill tires. Just do one at a time and call it a day this is just lazy

I'd probably just unplug the wire from the factory switch and use that lead to one side of the pressure switch then make a new lead for the other...no butt connectors needed. If the wires to short I'd desolder it and start fresh...less failure points. I'm likely going to gar a bit further and ditch the board and wimpy power leads in favor of a big relay.

I have a fj60 stock and my alternator is kinda crappy now it’s the original one. Would this alternator be a good upgrade from stock??

So did you get another ine or fix that one?

Functionally operates just as it should czcams.com/users/postUgkxiiMg_x4gIWeXMWfBnDdRnME4qJUAva4w holds pressure perfectly when not in use. Glad one of the other reviews pointed out that the bottom pressure release valve was open; thought it was defective at first.

Thanks for this video!!! New Subscriber🏁

Those metal clips always wear out the weak metal threads on the valve stems. A clip on right angle rubber type is actually better. Psi matters more when airing down. The difference between 14 and 15 psi doesn’t matter but 6 and 5 psi can be a serious issue. Especially deep snow 5 and 4 psi.

Very good mod Wish you could still get these maxi Trac compressors

I really wanted to make one, I already use flexible for the pressure cleaner and my single air hose, after pricing up the parts I found the TUFF TERRAIN MULTI TYRE DEFLATOR KIT (4 VALVE) is priced at 96usd or 149 aud, parts are price here in Australia

🙈 Promo-SM

I got the same error initially that prk assiat is not available when Iam prking in garage and sode wall is 2-3ft away. It also says side pillar cam is blocked and park assist unavailable. Now a days it says aide pillar cam is blocked and prk assist degraded. I still do not get the inches when park assist is degraded or earlier park assist not available. Tesla replaced side camera but still the same issue. Iam on 2023.12.5 no USS 2023 M3LR

I own a Toyota land cruiser bj60 wagon... Everything is standard and now its 39 years old... Just got issue with the electrical output... Should i upgrade the altenator or just upgrade all wiring that connect to the altenator?

Built one for myself based on your design. So glad did. Thanks for sharing

Really smart system, thanks

Great video! Did you have any recommendations on other manifolds to get?

Let’s be honest. If you bought a new car without the sensors you should be pissed. We were all screwed. And we all need to get together and show Tesla/Elon we’re pissed, otherwise he’ll keep taking advantage of us. Stop being super fans. They will not get better if we’re not 100% honest. The new vision update IDEA is cool, but in reality it’s TRASH. This is all the best of the best engineers could do in 6 months? It’s not going to get much better. Not with the current hardware. And retrofitting will not be an option, so we’re screwed. I suggest selling your Tesla now before HW4 is released.

Not ready? No, not at alll, and I am afraid it will never get ready anymore. After all, if this is the best Tesla engineers can come up with, I am no longer optimistic about further improvements, given they themselves no doubt have already done the same (disappointing) tests as the ones shown here and elsewhere. It remains just impossible to guess in a reliable way what is on blind spots that are not covered by a camera.

Nice shoes 😁

Vision-only is a fool’s errand. Anyone relying on vision-only is doomed!😇

Malfunction because of the crocs😄

My old Ford Focus from 2015 just does this with a few ultrasonic sensors and it completely reliable, doesn't matter if it's raining, if bright day or night. Why Tesla, why.

Probably because it’s too dark and the cameras are geeking out with the lighting or/and humidity… my car is bad too. Didn’t expect anything less after the removal of the sensors though.

seems to be doing fine in traditional parking spaces but not in weird parking situations like yours which seems reasonable for the first release

We should I know how park etc It’s driving basics 101 🤦‍♂️ Coming from a MYP owner

2 things 1) Eyeballing it to claim the distance is wrong is not an appropriate way to disprove whether something is correct or not. 2) The front camera is notoriously the one with the most reported issues in 100% accurate distance. It'd be better to show distances from sides, and rear as well to get a good idea if it's working as intended.

Serious question, is there anyone in the automotive industry who offers a parking assist system that is worse than this?

The old sensors could see things in front that were low to the ground. Can the cameras cover that area?

What happens when the rear camera is blocked by water?

Does everyone get this feature. Or do you need autopilot

USS on my MY don’t work a whole lot better, certainly can’t trust it for getting close. Just give me a Birds Eye view like other less expensive cars have. No Birds Eye/360 view, no RCTA, not even rear AEB. No ventilated seats. And I took a $20k hit on depreciation. After 6 months of ownership, not a happy owner.

Hey, I think this works quite nice for the beginning. Also appreciate that you see what's left and right from the car! Could finally work better than USS solutions.