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Noobie here. I’ve had my kobra go for 2 years and it’s a 50/50 crap shoot with my prints. Now I can do these adjustments and get better prints! Thank you! I’m a visual learner 😊

when this happen to me i change the micro ssd to other better quality micro ssd and all come back to normal!

The quality of your prints is perfect. What slicer do you use and can you share the profile?

This is amazing, I am so glad i found your YT. I just wish you had made it earlier when i spent so much time looking for this type of info.

Thank you for the informative video. I performed all the tests, and most dimensions were nearly accurate. However, I am encountering an issue with hole sizes; I am consistently getting an average of 5.58mm. This problem is affecting my prints, as most parts are not fitting together properly.

From my phone holder to lamps, stuff for my rc gear, to towel holders, you name it. Having a 3d printer really made me realize how much stuff i can make myself. If i could shred, melt and extrude into new filament all my failed prints affordable, would be a game changer. All the best wishes!

I swear it's always the Black filaments. I've tried 3D Jake's Eco PLA and i'm using Polymaker PolyTerra PLA, both black, and i'm getting the fuzziest prints. They're more or less good prints, but the stringing is insane ! There isn't one solution for everything though, currently i lowered the temperature to 180°c despite the filament allegedly requiring at the very least 190°c minimum, and it seems to have improved the stringing somewhat. Next thing i'll try is cranking the retraction speed and distance. Using Orca Slicer for my Anycubic Kobra Plus :)

Love this video! I repaired my microphone holder which was originally from RØDE but broke after a few months because it was too thin and couldn’t hold the weight of the mic. Also I have a coffee maker from Ninja. When I made only one cup, the coffee would splash out of the cup with each drip and made a mess. I simply printed a tightly fitted riser for this. This is my favorite thing to do with my printer. Design stuff which I can’t or won’t buy, print it and fix things with it.

Just last month, I threw away my electric wine opener because one of the buttons broke. Do you have a video where you design the broken/missing piece? I am new and would love to learn. Thanks

How do you run the code?

Have you tried or done any flexible filaments on your neo and if so how did it go

Wow... After all that I have learned about 3D Printing, there is always something that can catch you off guard. The issue I am/was having was layer shifts. I've improved the mechanical connection to my Y-axis motor, used locktite and tightened the belt etc. But as i reached the end of your video, I heard and saw what the final issue could be, and that was accelleration and jerk during slicing the model. Obviously an oversight and is easily done, but I hope this is the last bloody thing holding me back because Ive got large models to print and do not want to waste anymore material esp at that scale on issues like this. So thanks for posting this video... sometimes all you need is to hear someone mention or pinpoint the issue out so it gets you back on track. So thanks again 🤓👍

Hey Mayhem!! OMG, it's my true honour to know that my video made such an amazing inspiration!! This is a nice video; it tells a great story of how you discovered the 3D scanner apps like KIRI Engine and started to explore. I know why the unicorn part didn't come out as great as the cap. America that was on its top. When you used a lazy Susan to take turntable photos instead of walking around the stool like you did in the first scan, because the unicore has a white and reflective surface it doesn't have as many features points as the cap. America on the top. More features points generally mean better 3D scan result for Photo Scan model. And in your first scan, when you walked around the unicorn on the stool, the algorithm kinda picked up enough features points on the stool, which resulted in a cleaner 3D model than the one with the lazy Susan. I actually made another video explaining what features points were and how you can use Featureless Object Scan mode to scan objects that don't have features points. Check the video out here: czcams.com/video/f6vuY-RJtq8/video.htmlsi=03zz2WPOhejAdwUd This featureless object scan mode requires a small subscription fee, but man, if you are interested, please email me at jack.w@kiri-innov.com, it will be my greatest pleasure to offer you a free KIRI Engine PRO trial so you can experiment more of the app.

Nice video!

Try the sculpt mode in blender, its pretty intuitive and a lot of fun. You can smooth, pinch, pull, add texture etc.

sooooo... i just got my printer and it pulled only 20mm... i feel like there is something bigger off that just the steps... it doesnt feel right putting 475 as the m92 value

Amazing! Where can I find the Brim.gcode file? :D

Fantastic video! I have used 3df zephyr in the past with great results. Just yesterday i have installed kiri and now this video 🤌🏻

Great video thanks! I don't think you HAVE to use the Organic mesh conversion...It just is a paid option that can yield better results (so I have been told)

thx :)

I am at an absolute loss with my Kobra 2, which I managed to tune to very high quality results APART from the rollers on the Z. It seems no matter what I do, one of the outwards rollers in spinning freely on one side, the other doesn't do it. My instant thought was the gantry square being off, but it is perfect. And now the weirdest thing, when the print head is low, the top outwards roller is loose, when it is high then it is reversed and the bottom one is loose. I cannot figure it out, it's almost like one of the z profiles is curved... nothing makes sense.

Thank you ❤

Where do I get the stl file for printing those squares?

I was struggling to understand what it should "feel" like when the rollers are tightened correctly, this helped me so much!

Thanks for the tutorial, I just got a used Kobra Neo and I want to give a try on orca, was wondering if you will do a similar guide for orca setting for the neo? Thanks~

Your videos are really helping me out as I am a real novice here. Having a lot of trouble getting the builds to stick to the base. Get about halfway done and then they start to move. So far I have cleaned the bed, then leveled the bed and made sure the temperature is just above 60, but to no avail. Any suggestions? Also is it possible to get a copy of the file for the belt jig? Trying to cross my Ts -- so to speak.

Hey mate...thanks for this tutorial. it really helped. for the longest time since i got the my Kobra 2 max i couldnt figure out the issues but after this I managed to get an almost perfect print. Only issue is that when the light shines on the print, I can see the brim divided into sectors, and there is the entry line diagonally across. Is that normal? My Z offset was manually adjusted to -0.6mm.

My anycubic keeps printing an outline that’s connected to my prints causing problems with articulated prints

I didn’t get the tube thing

Thank you!! This works for my Anycubic Kobra. Thaks a lot 🎉

Funny thing, I've always kept the filament in the original bag with the desicant it came with, no issues so far. Thought I was the only one keeping those bags 😂😂

I followed your steps for the Anycubic slicer and half the time it will generate a y-axis error or print way off center. I have had nothing but issues with this printer and while your videos have been helpful, I think my Kobra Go is just a hunk of junk

Thank you for this. I was intimidated to do this but you made it wasy.

just wanted to say a massive thank you as im new to the 3d printing world and have found it so hard to find out where im going wrong and you videos has helped my get the knowledge i need to progress thanks again

Thank you sir!

That Sovol dryer is hot garbage. Not trying to say anyone needs a dryer, unless you print a lot of CF or CF mixtures, but I got one of those free with my SV06. It may get to 35°C when using a somewhat decent temperature and humidity sensor. You can test it yourself. I guess I just have way better luck with PETG, ABS, ASA, or TPU after it's been dried. I don't print a lot of CF but pretty much everyone says it needs to be dried for 8 to 12 hours. Which may be true. I just know I have warping and other issues with the filements listed above if they have been left out in the open for too long, especially TPU.

Vac seal bags can be bought with a reuseable heavy-duty zip on them and a valve that can be used to vac them either with your existing sealer's handheld attachment or a cheap, rechargeable little handheld unit. Those bags are meant to be sealed against EVERYTHING for long periods and are super heavy-duty. Probably would work amazing with the silica.

I print in a garage here in Houston, Tx and it's usually between 60-80% humidity. I use clear cereal containers and I printed some holders to hold Fonday silica beads that I got on amazon. A 2LB container is about $17 and is plenty. They start out orange and turn green when they're used up. Then you just pop them in your filament dryer in a basket or microwave to reset them. You can find some projects to print from the cereal containers too and print out some filament rollers to place in them. Thanks for sharing!

the kobra go is such a piece of crap. i've never been more frustrated with a device as much as i am with the go. i will get a perfect print once, change no settings, try to print the same thing moments later and it wont even get past the 4th layer without failing. as soon as i have the money im going to buy something better and use my shotgun to put the go down.

None of my 1KG spools will fit in a gallon ziploc bag like you show.

Please do not rely on hallucinating algorithm to make a decisions

This doesn't apply to you if you're using PLA. PLA has been shown time and again to not be as big an issue with other filaments. People have stored the PLA in water over night, and no issues in printing.

To test humidity you need to leave the tester in at least 3 days to a week to get a stable reading

I learned that you can reuse the moisture pack by sticking them in the oven. I never would have thought of that, as obvious as it seems. I think this is a fantastic idea, and thanks for sharing that tip.

Nice print! K cups poison you. You're boiling plastic, and the toxins leech into your coffee. It's carcinogenic.

You could also put them in a box with a fan that should work, or maybe even just blow a small box fan on the rolls themselves might work never tried. Fans are good for lowering humidity.

1. Shipped with desiccate bags are already spent when they arrive. Toss them, they do nothing. 2. Ziploc bag will trap any moisture. Don't believe me? Put cheese in a baggie you'll see 3. ChatGPT is only good for ending the human civilization that made it. Anything over 25% is terrible. 30% is catastrophic, it would end printing in my lab until corrected. My lab is consistent 15% humidity and it's below grade. Solution: Tidy Cat tubs/buckets Holds 5 rolls and 1/2 loose desiccate at the bottom of the bucket. Install hygrometer in the lid. Putting desiccate in a container or sock can be done, honestly a waste of time. Refresh desiccate with a baking tray at 300 for one hour. First dump into the bucket will make the humidity spike,. leave lid open for 10 minutes while it vents then close. End result should be 10% or less humidity. And no I don't live in a dessert climate. Anything less is a waste of time.

Quick question, would you recommend having a dual z axis for the machine, and if so, why haven't you done it yet. By the way, great videos... They are really helpful