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@SOMNIOHM The BR6s is a good choice for sure! I've wanted a Summit since their introduction and glad I finally picked one up. I also run a 775/EVX2 in an E-Maxx and find the power to be adequate for my ability to follow the truck with my vision issues. Not sure how I'd do with a 6s off-roader in the same area that I run! Thank you for watching and thanks for your comment!

In that case you'll need a forward only conversion (part #4994x) to replace the forward/reverse output assembly and then decide how you want to deal with the 2-speed. If you want to keep it, great, adjust the shift point to where you like it and you're done. If you want to eliminate it you'll need to remove the first gear set and replace it with spacers to keep the second gear set aligned. Any tube that fits over the shaft will do (arrow shafts might be a good choice, as is brass or aluminum tube from the hobby shop); this will keep the gears from moving side to side.

Gone the way of the dodo, at least for me. The slipper is locked and I use a bit of shoe-goo to hold the slipper disc's to the hub which in turn helps lock the assembly together and reduces the chances of slipping as there's usually a bit of Adhesive making contact with the spur on both sides. If I was more confident in my drilling ability I'd convert the top shaft to use a revo slipper but as of now I don't have the nerves to do it.

@@1i-rc gotcha

Since doing the review I have upgraded the center diff with a metal spur and 1 million wt. diff fluid, as well as swapping out the radio. At some point I'll replace the servo and I already have a Shredder wing mount ready to go on. Overall I've enjoyed the truck and it impresses me with its fun-to-dollar ratio! Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching.

Thank you!

The body is a Pro-Line 1985 IROC Z (PRO360217), and yes, it will fit the 22s perfectly!

With the locked diff the car tracks pretty straight but I do have my eyes on a set of Reaction+ HP's when the Big Daddy's wear out. A small benefit of the tire growth is that it lengthens the gearing slightly allowing more conservative gearing to be used. With the current gearing the car hits top speed very near the finish line; I may only be able to go up a tooth or two on the pinion with the current setup. Improving the launch and half-track performance is my goal for now as doing so will ultimately lead to faster trap speeds anyway (once regeared, of course).

@@1i-rc I wouldn’t go with the reaction+HP’s the compound is sub par at best the blue dot reactions would be a better option

One thing I've learned from running this car is that a ton of horsepower is not your friend. Even on the Big Daddy's this car can spin the tires all the way through the traps. I believe this car would be faster with a 17.5 spec motor than it is with the 4300 that's currently strapped in.

@@1i-rc I follow a lot of real scale fwd drag racing and I definitely get that! Im only going for twin motors to get the weight I need up front and to hopefully have the tq I want off a 2s battery. I was going to use either 3100s or 3400s not sure yet

It uses the Protoform PF-RX body for the 1/10 Traxxas Rally currently. Thank you for watching and thanks for the comment!

I'm ordering the carbon fiber cloth and resin today so with any luck the parts will be done early next week and I'll be out testing next weekend!

I wouldn't mind having a 1/10 JRX-T simply for the Ironman Stewart paint scheme and I'd definitely be down for a re-release if Losi ever brings one to market. I feel like they went 1/16 for this one to not only draw in the older crowd who had one of the originals but also the little ones out there that wanted something cool like dad's to run in small spaces and indoors.

With any luck it'll cool off enough in the next few days to get out and run the truck, seeing it on the bench with those tires has me anxious to pull trigger again!

Thanks Carl. At the moment I have around 60 vehicles in the fleet in various states of progress so I've always got something to work on!

I appreciate it. I guess as a side effect of ADHD if I can trick my brain into thinking I have to get something done it makes things easier. I must admit that it was a little cathartic to get behind the camera again; interacting with the RC community has really helped and for that I am extremely grateful.

Thank you, that means a lot to me and my family.

Fundamentally this car will not compete with its RWD counterpart. It has been a fun project and I love the car but for anything more than than fun runs FWD doesn't compare. That being said, there's a bit of work to be done to convert a Slash, but it's mostly off-the-shelf parts with the exception being the chassis extension and steering servo mounts. Thanks for watching and thank you for your comment!

Those are Pro-Line Pomona's front and rear. The narrower wheel gives the Big Daddy's a fatter profile for a little more contact patch. Thanks for watching and thank you for your comment!

Not sure I want to put that much power in the car but it's good to know what dimensions to look for when I buy a pack specifically for the BB. Thank you for the heads up!

@@1i-rc heres mine on 3s! :) czcams.com/video/hKEUfU2nwvI/video.html

That is a Protoform PF-RX body for the Traxxas 1/10 Rally car. At the time I first started the project it was the only body that looked somewhat like a FWD car as the Ford Focus body was already discontinued.

If you put it on a standard width slash the tires are going to rub really badly but if you widen the truck with a jato mld or a Jang wide mod (I have articles on mu website about both) you may have enough clearance to make it work. Alternatively you could raise th3 body up a bit on a drag chassis and run off road SC Wheels and tires in the rear and off road buggy 2.2 wheels and tires up front for a Mad Max look.

@@1i-rc what about trimming the body and raising the posts

@@thegunreviewer5598 You could trim it to accommodate the tires but that would detract from the scale looks of the body quite a bit. If that doesn't bother you then trimming the flares over the wheel wells would be a good place to start and go up from there as needed. Anything is possible with lexan scissors and imagination!

It is....hobbywing settings same

I'll definitely keep an eye on them as well as the chassis for any signs of tweaking. I've heard from other folks that the chassis likes to flex quite a bit and put undue stress on the diffs so a chassis brace will be on the short list of upgrades. I'll also be picking up a Fast Eddy bearing kit for the truck just to have some spares in case one or more decide to seize up on me. I usually keep a kit around for each of my trucks just in case. Thank you for the heads up and thank you for watching!

I've heard the flex does create diff issues. It's from that plastic piece connecting the front to the back by the center diff. There was a guy who did a video called bulletproofing the shredder and he put a rod he got from a hardware store running from one shock tower to the other. That made it so the RC can't flex anymore and those diffs get messed up. Pretty much all larger RCs seem to have some sort of bar brace running down the middle now a days. This seems like an easy, smart mod I would imagine.

My shredder now have 70% arrma kraton 6s part on it . much stronger now .

I build crawler courses and live in the desert wilderness. I use mine they're not sitting and being worked on all the time. Get out and have fun, these are awesome.

With my eyesight the way it is 4s is plenty fast for now. I've look at the Hobbywing 8BL150 as an option but after driving the truck I'm not sure I need it! Thank you for the comment and thanks for watching!

I've got the 50,000 ready to go in and I've got a bottle of 100,000 and a bottle of 500,000 to try. I like the way a locked center diff drives but I'll also try the 100,000 to see if I like it better. Thank you for the heads up!