Video

Could you send a picture? Or just a little more info, i.e. what color is the wire?

@@shed52 will you send me a email to send picture to

I've heard of some mechanics cutting holes in the firewall or using a lift. The lowering bolts make it more accessible for several jobs including that middle engine mount. It's still difficult, but completely changes ride quality. Do need to jack right up and support the engine, then each bolt can be replaced while supporting the weight of the engine. Then lower carefully making sure no pipes or wires are stretched or binding. They do make the centre moun that much more accessible. I think most Smart Car owners suffer from chaffred arms, everything is so compact.

Hi David In bit of a mess. I should have waited for lowering bolts. Undid right X frame and rear right mount, lowered engine. Still couldn't get centre mount bolts out. Given up for now. Flipping centre mount bolt won't go through. Seems to have dropped a inch down and won't go back up. Any ideas thanks 👍

@@MrHoppy40 I guess you have the engine supported with a trolly jack. I used a small scissor jack on a brick to line up the bolt hole, placing it near the centre engine mount. When I got close I used a screwdriver to hold in position before putting the bolt through.

@@shed52 yes a trolly jack under sump. I'll try scissor jack. I have those lowering bolts on order. They've been upgraded now. BGS 6642 come with a wrench. Would undoing that X frame be at fault for bolt not lining up? Felt like something moved when I undid it. Only can be learn. Thanks 👍

@@MrHoppy40 Not sure if undoing the X Frame is a fault. Should release some of the tension. Once the lowering bolts are in place you will notice the difference. Are you in the UK?

Thanks for the feedback Harry.

I haven't seen any speakers in the back of the van, but I'll look to see if there is a wiring harness. If there is, it will be useful.

Here is my Amazon link amzn.to/3VOtgeS but currently looks like they are out of stock. This link is showing in stock www.tools2go-int.com/13716620/engine-lowering-bolt-set-for-smart-4-pcs and costs £26. I had to experiment with different ideas, but once I had worked out how to do it and jack the car up, I think half a day. Starting again I would give myself a day to do.

@@shed52 thanks m8

Most of my journeys are done by bike.

Yet you clog up the streets also in an old VW diesel do you not!!

I ride a bike.

@@MissPiggy-qc5kw I ride a bike.

I ride a bike, but I have to use the main roads to get to my destination. In my view, the LTN scheme isn't a green solution.

LTNS are dangerous, they encourage bad cycling, they are bad for the environment, they are causing businesses to close, they are delays residents making them late for important appointments. You admitted on camera once to altering street furniture, namely an LTN making it permanent to the point even emergency vehicles could no longer get through, you are a danger to the public Theo.

I used them once and thought about selling them. But I keep going back to them, they make life so much more easier. Thanks for the feedback.

Must admit, I was surpirised to see the front end lift when I pull away, all due to the centre engine mount.

We didnt plan to do things together, initially the car was a means of keeping out of the house (I don't like to be inside). Julian is autistic and he slowly became interested in working together and helping. So I guess it brought us closer together. Since I did the engine mounts especially the centre one the car has been running brilliantly, hence I haven't uploaded any videos recently. I have planned a few more videos after the MOT this month, and take on board the rust problems. Not sure how to address this, whether to treat what I have or buy a complete subframe. I think I'll wait to see what issues ariuse from the MOT, probably quite a lot! Talk to you soon, David

You are absolutely right, I had to do this one on a budget, away from the other one who controls the purse strings.

One clue is a clunk when you start from stationary, then it comes back in a low rev range and then accelerates. Would be good to get it on a ramp and have a look.

Thank you for the really positive feedback.

Hi, glad to hear you were able to change the starter motor. If you have an engine management light I really would get a cheap diagnostic tool. Here's the one I have amzn.to/4d9tPIp on Amazon. I had a bad idle engine and it was the oxygen sensor, but because there are two I really would recommend getting a diagnostic tool. Could also be a fuel issue like a spark plug. Once you have the engine fault code, let me know and I'll see if I can help.

Hi , thanks for fast reply! I bought diagnostic tool last night.Code read out says "Throttle pedal position Sensor Switch A Circuit" now car doesn't move and do not accepting any power. I have deleted the fault code and removed throttle boody to see what going on, reinstalled throttle body.After that car is accepting the throttle and I have power.No Engine fault with "Throttle pedal position Sensor Switch A Circuit" but big bang I hear when I give more power and engine fault is on but diagnostic tool do not read the fault. Do you know maybe what can it be? thanks!

Short update all OK it seems that something was with a connector on the throttle body.Connector cleaned with contact spray all working now. Just one more question after the coolant hose was removed do I need to bleed the cooling system?

@@cromgu3664 Turn the engine on and let it get up to temperature, if it keeps getting hotter it means you might have an air block. This will mean you will need to bleed.

Thank you very much for the help!

I think most people are looking fr a cleaner, greener solution, as opposed to just displacing traffic.

@@shed52 Most people that live in LTNs report the benefits of cleaner air and quieter, safer streets. The people that complain are those that think motorists should have priority everywhere they go. As for a cleaner, greener solution, maybe try leaving your car at home and using public transport?

@@djturbine7565 In Oxford we are experiencing displacement. Neigbouring roads to LTNs are seeing higher concentrations of pollution and queing traffic does actually translate to net congestion and an increase in pollution. Unfortunately, we are also experiencing a decease in public transport delivery. 3A in Blackbird Leys is no longer accessible to older vulnerable residents, the bus service in Littlemore has decreased with the loss of one service.

Interesting that this is your second starter motor, I've also had to fit two! Your right tapping does release a struct solenoid. Using drop bolts to lower the subframe is the easiest way to gain access to the starter. The second time I replaced the starter, I also changed the alternator, simply because I could while I had good access.

Sorry, I also meant to ask if you have checked the condition of your battery?

@@shed52 Hi. Yes the battery is good & well maintained with a monitor. I do have a more recent Alternator problem (last two weeks)- only charging sometimes. I wonder if the aforementioned starter motor issue has now caused the alternator to be inconsistent. The Alternator is freely rotating as it should / no slipping. I used a Multimeter of course to test whilst running & some days it doesn't charge at all / reach anywhere near 13.5 (with a fully charged battery) - but yesterday it worked okay. The inconsistent behaviour is a little confusing - I have read that Alternators don't always just die - they can slowly deteriorate. Do you think anything else could be the cause? Thanks again

Thank you Sophia

Take your time and enjoy.

It's a big job, and glad you liked the video.

I use a company called GSF, for the centre mount I bought on eBay.

Essentially you are right. Nice to have the main switch illuminated if you are entering the van at night and need a guide. Even a small light on the switch can be annoying at night.

No, the first switch had a LED fitted, so the switch required a ground to light it when on. The first switch was simply an ON/OFF switch. No LED fitted to the second ON/OFF/ON switches.

On the inner side of the wheel arch on the passenger side, there are a few cables held in by a bracket. If you decide to use the lowering bolts this bracket needs to be released. You will also need to release the handbrake for lowering otherwise, but not necessary to release the handbrake cables at the hub. Other than the bracket I mentioned earlier it will drop smoothly.

I used the same process to access the starter motor. Also necessary to get the car as high up as possible before lowering this gives space to get underneath.

@@shed52 thank you so much!

Glad you liked it.

Thank you, making a video of the job always takes a little longer. Glad you enjoyed it.

Brilliant, glad to hear it.

Thanks for this, I hadn't thought about taking the side engine mount to create space. It does look like a pain but I will follow your instructions and have a try over the next few weeks. Fortunately, I have a van so I can take a little longer as the other vehicle will keep me on the road. I'll let you know how I get on.

Is it possible to change only rubber bushings with new or polyurethane ones? It is cheaper

@@milanjovanovic6259 Rubber bushes are moulded into the new engine mounts. Its Ok to use them like that without polyurethane bushes and you will have less vibration. I do however like the polyurethane bushes on the centre mount.

After replacing two engine mounts it hasn't solved the problem. Looking at the center engine mount it looks split so I will change the center mount next.

@@shed52 I have your same problem 😥

Yours is the centre mount as well? I went to two garages that didn't want to do the job.

@@shed52 yes, I know

@@shed52 I know a car specialist that make a hole into the chassis, behind the seats

Hi, I have had a look at this one, which is high up on my 450 and difficult to get at. It looks really difficult to get at. I will take your advice and get some PowerFlex inserts, If I do this one, I don't want to take it off again. On the 450 it looks really difficult, so I'm going to order extended bolts (drop bolts) and lower the whole subframe.

@@shed52 remember to make a video for this harder job. Thank you for your videos!

@@ilvale6439 Will do. Might be a bit longer.

@@shed52 yes, I know, it's a great job, thank you so much!!

Hi, I miss you guys a whole bunch. We must meet up.

Hi John, I assume you have a live red wire coming from the fuse to the switch and then the return cable going to a negative pole of a fuse box or ground to the van? Could you let me know, and if it's still not illuminating please let me know.

Yes, I lost about 300ml, not a lot but this did mean I needed to top up the coolant afterwards.

Glad it was helpful.

Thank you for this feedback, will try your suggestion.

I wasn't sure, a subscriber suggested it might be the fault. It was good advice, but it didn't solve the problem. Another subscriber has suggested the engine mounts might be the problem, so I am currently changing those.

@@shed52 i have your same problem.

I'll let you know if changing the engine mounts solves the problem. My car has done 50,000 so not high milage.@@ilvale6439

@@shed52 I have been changed the central one but the problem remain. Then I will try to change also the left mount and the right one

Thank you so much! Any and all feedback is most welcome.

Glad you liked it, if you want to try it on your van or house it's possible to download an app onto a mobile phone. I use it to detect drafts and heat losses around the house.