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Find purple thread locker, it will hold the screw but not as tightly as blue thread locker and should solve your problem without making them too difficult to remove later.

Sorry, not that I can think of.

@@jackofalltradesmasterofnon7860 ok ty

It's been a while, but I think I used a Dremmel and/or sand paper to slowly file them down. You could also order shorter rod ends.

I really did get the sign posts legitimately. I had to try hard not to show who's name was on it as they are related to me, they did not get the office they ran for. Your comment/rant/story was a good read, no worries here. As for the last part "what is that chloroplast- thingy you are talking about?", I'm not sure what you are talking about there. I'd be happy to elaborate, if you can tell me where in the video you are referencing that from.

Yes, they should. There is an updated part number to look for though. 18160

@@jackofalltradesmasterofnon7860 thank you I'm also looking into buying a tool kit do you have any suggestions that won't break the bank ?

@@adamsukennikoff6668 MIP make great, strong tools. You don't need them for everything, some cheap tool sets work great for most things, but the tiny driveshaft grub screws (1.5 mm, I think) you really will thank yourself for spending a little extra on an MIP driver for those.

I'm not sure, but if you look them up on FB and send them a message, they usually reply pretty quickly.

I think the only way you'd be able to makes turns is by making angels not exactly round curves

Yes, the dimensions of the trucks are the same, just different parts here and there. These also will fit on the Gen 8, though you'd still need a short one from the transmission to the transfer case.

Thanks for your input, but actually that servo lasted quite a while after this video (if not still in it now.)

I have a sheet of 4x8 coroplast, but I'm waiting on some turns to be printed, not sure if/when I'll get those, but if I do, I'm building some track! The whole sheet of CP was only $15 or $20, I can't remember.

I just moved the shocks to lower mounts on the frame/shock towers. I think some of my other videos show more details what I did.

I have not tried that, I do not have access to normal track.

@@jackofalltradesmasterofnon7860 How do you connect coroplast ends? I saw CZcams using the flutes with a thin dowel like the Double H steel sign posts realtors use. There's probably another good option. I think I'll get those Mag Track connectors from ThingiVerse, they're designed for coroplast. cost is one issue, delivery the other as 3D printing can take time and there may be a back log to your order. JLH Kraft is one printer. Thanks for your time in replying... i'll check out your other vids.

Roland Parker I'm currently looking for the same information. Any luck?

@@bigsamsports Yes, I used the sign post/stand that was with the sign to make connectors. I've purchased a 4x8 sheet of coroplast, so now, if I can ever get my turns printed, I just have to figure out that connection.

@@bigsamsports I thought about using 4mm bamboo skewers to join the coroplast. They sell them on Amazon, 100 10" skewers for $7. You could cut them in half to get 200 connectors. If you use 4 pieces on each seam (2 on the base and 1 on each side) you can make a lot of straight track. Turns have always been the challenge for me so I haven't built a track from coroplast yet. I've been using the Adventure Force Crash Racers track which connects very easily to standard orange track.

I've had to drill them out before, but I know I've read some other techniques that I've not tried or wasn't successful with.

I would also suggest a high quality tool for these grub screws for the next time, something like MIP drivers.

I should drill right threw the the top right?

Also thank you for the great info

As small as a bit as you can find and keep it as straight as possible.

Kind of a test video, I always forget to video our trips, but needed to upload one.

No problem. I'm still running those without any problems, great driveshafts, well worth the extra $$$ to not have to keep swapping them out. My only problem, I used blue locktite, couldn't move them to my Gen 8. I suggest now to use purple thread locker, much easier to remove later but still holds.

Can you please translate that to English?

Yes, that sounds right. They are the same size and what not, they should work just fine, they just made the design where it fits more trucks.

I did not, nor have I had any problem with them. That being said, that truck now has portal axles on it.

It was just one of many suggestions, it's what I had access to and didn't want to alter the axles. Now, I'd just tell someone to spend the few dollars and get the high steer kit, which I think newer models already have any way

If it's the stock Gen7 Pro driveshaft, then it's the same as what's in my video, just a different axle (it's the Redcat Gen8 portal axle.)

You're going to have to heat them up, I've heard people having luck with lighters and even soldering irons, but I did not, so I did this torch. As you see in the video, it doesn't take much, just angle it away from the plastic parts as much as possible. The Gen7 Pro has metal u joints on the driveshafts, so you should be fine to heat them up.

When you go to put them back together, I suggest getting purple thread locker, like this (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBGHFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) it is a low strength hold, where blue is medium, and red is permanent.

Mine were rusted and i sprayed WD40 in them for 5mins settle wipe it off then I head up the tip of the allen tip.

I don't remember seeing any difference, but I've since upgraded to the portal axles, so I'm not 100% sure.

The shock is the stock Gen 7 and the springs are from a Rockslide RS10. When I upgraded to the beta portal axles, I had to go back to the stock springs, but due to the shock angles, it flexes about the same as with the softer springs.

Well now my next question how do you feel about the portal axles? I’ve had my pro about a month now and was considering purchasing the portals but I haven’t seen any good reviews on them yet?

If you have any difficult terrain you're trailing on, they will make the truck go places it wouldn't before. Between portal axles and Hyrax tires, mine is pretty versatile.

Did you get the high steer knuckles? If not, that link is too long. If so, there's an adjustment screw on one end of the bar.

@@jackofalltradesmasterofnon7860 No dont have the high steer knuckles

That's the problem. That is supposed to go with high steer knuckles. The kit probably wouldn't have been much more expensive than just the link.

IDK. The E10 fit on the Gen7, so I'd think they would work the other way around. As SCX10 knuckles, I know with modifications they would fit on the Gen7, so I'd think they would fit on the E10. I hear the Gen7 high steer kit will fit on the E10.

Thanks for reply enjoy your video

Jeff Gould What? Man that pisses me off! I just ordered one off amazon last week and have been working on it because this issue. Had to dremel off the nub on steering knuckle and bend the linkage to get more clearance on the pumpkin. I must have got the old version. My box was beat to hell when I received it, they didn’t even take the time to package it separately in another box. Really bad experience from the amazon seller.

I have a newer update video, should be the pinned one when you go to my page with my newest mods and parts. I would highly suggest if you're going to spend the money, just get the high steer kit for the Gen7. czcams.com/video/xepYcGlHxYg/video.html

I already installed the aluminum parts gen7 update. But I think it does not turn as much as your first video.

I think they do or maybe even more. I have to limit the steering on the controller so I don't eat into the shocks with my tires. That being said, the Hyrax tires are probably wider, but my daughter's truck had to be dialed back as well. Here is a link to the Redcat E10 knuckles, they seem to be out of stock at Redcat, but maybe you can find a local or online dealer with them: www.redcatracing.com/180002. As for the steering links, I'd see what you need, I used RS10 links, because that's what I had, but the tires were a bit toed out, so you might get away with the stock arm (or the one with the high steer kit) with a couple shims.

Dev&D RC thanks! I've since ditched this and am running the high steer kit. The Rockslide knuckles, most the driver's side, rubbed the tire, a lot.

JackOfAllTradesMasterOfNone cool, I am adding thicker wheel hubs