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International School of Tailoring
United Kingdom
Registrace 7. 09. 2020
Inspire | Educate | Innovate
Master The Art Of Bespoke Tailoring.
Learn to make a bespoke jacket with our online tailoring course on CZcams.
Master The Art Of Bespoke Tailoring.
Learn to make a bespoke jacket with our online tailoring course on CZcams.
7 Principles of Luxury Branding and How to Apply Them (Even if You’re a Start-Up)
If you're a business owner and you have questions about what it takes to build a brand, watch this interview with Wolfgang Schaefer and JP Kuehlwein; authors of the best selling book "Rethinking Prestige Branding".
In their book, they explain in simple terms what drives the success of luxury and premium brands across multiple industries.
JP Kuehlwein is a global brand builder and a recognised strategy expert. With 20+ years of hands-on experience in successfully creating brands that have generated a billion dollars in combined sales annually around the world.
Wolfgang Schaefer has been building a wide range of global brands for over 25 years in Europe, the US and Asia Pacific for companies as diverse as PepsiCo, P&G, Unilever, Coty and more. His main expertise lies in growing prestige brands such as LVMH, Davidoff, Swarovski and many others.
Why their book is so useful:
1. Reader focused; It talks about fundamental subjects that you as a business owner must think about.
2. Actually asks questions; instead of spoon feeding you all sorts of answers, the writers ask you questions about your company that will eventually help you refine your vision.
3. Well organised. Instead of talking about luxury branding as a big general topic, the writers have beautifully organised their thoughts in chapters that make sense on their own and as part of a bigger concept.
I have collected a series of questions from my Instagram followers who are in the same process as I am and we will be going through the questions one by one, according to the concepts laid out in the book.
Join me in the conversation with JP and Wolfgang.
___________________________________________________________
➤ Ueber-Brands:
ueberbrands.com
➤ INSTAGRAM REZA:
hotneedleandburningthread
___________________________________________________________
In their book, they explain in simple terms what drives the success of luxury and premium brands across multiple industries.
JP Kuehlwein is a global brand builder and a recognised strategy expert. With 20+ years of hands-on experience in successfully creating brands that have generated a billion dollars in combined sales annually around the world.
Wolfgang Schaefer has been building a wide range of global brands for over 25 years in Europe, the US and Asia Pacific for companies as diverse as PepsiCo, P&G, Unilever, Coty and more. His main expertise lies in growing prestige brands such as LVMH, Davidoff, Swarovski and many others.
Why their book is so useful:
1. Reader focused; It talks about fundamental subjects that you as a business owner must think about.
2. Actually asks questions; instead of spoon feeding you all sorts of answers, the writers ask you questions about your company that will eventually help you refine your vision.
3. Well organised. Instead of talking about luxury branding as a big general topic, the writers have beautifully organised their thoughts in chapters that make sense on their own and as part of a bigger concept.
I have collected a series of questions from my Instagram followers who are in the same process as I am and we will be going through the questions one by one, according to the concepts laid out in the book.
Join me in the conversation with JP and Wolfgang.
___________________________________________________________
➤ Ueber-Brands:
ueberbrands.com
➤ INSTAGRAM REZA:
hotneedleandburningthread
___________________________________________________________
zhlédnutí: 1 117
Video
L33: How To Baste Tailored Sleeves - Pagoda Model | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 5KPřed 6 měsíci
Tailored sleeves are one of the most important components of a bespoke jacket. They have a sculpted look and when done well, truly set the jacket apart from all others. In this video lesson, you will learn how to baste in the sleeves of your Pagoda Model. The purpose of this lesson is to learn ease distribution also known as distribution of fullness. The sleeve pattern is cut bigger than usual ...
L33: How To Baste Tailored Sleeves - Traditional Model | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 7KPřed 7 měsíci
Tailored sleeves are one of the most important components of a bespoke jacket. They have a sculpted look and when done well, truly set the jacket apart from all others. In this video lesson, you will learn how to baste in the sleeves of your Traditional Model. The purpose of this lesson is to learn ease distribution also known as distribution of fullness. The sleeve pattern is cut bigger than u...
L32: Tailored Sleeves - Theory | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 6KPřed 7 měsíci
Learning to set a pair of tailored sleeves in a jacket is often one of the most complicated parts of bespoke tailoring. The reason for this is often poor explanation that leads to mis-understanding the factors involved that influence the shape, hang and fit of a sleeve. In this video lesson, we will teach you the fundamental theory of sleeves to deepen your understanding about them and prepare ...
L31: How To Baste a Tailored Collar - Pagoda Model | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 2,9KPřed 9 měsíci
In this video lesson, you will learn how to correctly baste the felt under-collar of a bespoke jacket to the neck circle and lapels. A correct under-collar is dependant on a small neck circle, the right amount of curve on its break-line and minor corrections to the pattern that can only be calculated during make up. 𝟭𝟬𝟬 𝗬𝗲𝗮𝗿𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗧𝗮𝗶𝗹𝗼𝗿𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗞𝗻𝗼𝘄𝗹𝗲𝗱𝗴𝗲 𝗶𝗻 𝟮 𝗣𝗹𝗮𝘆𝗹𝗶𝘀𝘁𝘀 Join us in a crystal clear, ste...
L31: How To Baste a Tailored Collar - Traditional Model | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 6KPřed 10 měsíci
In this video lesson, you will learn how to correctly baste the felt under-collar of a bespoke jacket to the neck circle and lapels. A correct under-collar is dependant on a small neck circle, the right amount of curve on its break-line and minor corrections to the pattern that can only be calculated during make up. 𝟭𝟬𝟬 𝗬𝗲𝗮𝗿𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗧𝗮𝗶𝗹𝗼𝗿𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗞𝗻𝗼𝘄𝗹𝗲𝗱𝗴𝗲 𝗶𝗻 𝟮 𝗣𝗹𝗮𝘆𝗹𝗶𝘀𝘁𝘀 Join us in a crystal clear, ste...
L30: How To Make A Self Under-Collar - Pagoda Model | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 2,3KPřed 10 měsíci
In this video lesson, we will show you how to make a fabric under-collar also known as a "self under-collar". You will use stiff linen collar canvas along with fabric and secure them together with a padding-stitch. 𝟭𝟬𝟬 𝗬𝗲𝗮𝗿𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗧𝗮𝗶𝗹𝗼𝗿𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗞𝗻𝗼𝘄𝗹𝗲𝗱𝗴𝗲 𝗶𝗻 𝟮 𝗣𝗹𝗮𝘆𝗹𝗶𝘀𝘁𝘀 Join us in a crystal clear, step-by-step virtual apprenticeship with our free, in-depth coat-making course on CZcams. We have two mode...
L30: How To Make A Felt Under-Collar - Traditional Model | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 7KPřed 10 měsíci
In this video lesson, we will show you how to make a felt under-collar for any bespoke jacket. You will use stiff linen collar canvas along with felt and secure them with a padding-stitch. 𝟭𝟬𝟬 𝗬𝗲𝗮𝗿𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗧𝗮𝗶𝗹𝗼𝗿𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗞𝗻𝗼𝘄𝗹𝗲𝗱𝗴𝗲 𝗶𝗻 𝟮 𝗣𝗹𝗮𝘆𝗹𝗶𝘀𝘁𝘀 Join us in a crystal clear, step-by-step virtual apprenticeship with our free, in-depth coat-making course on CZcams. We have two models to choose from, one for...
L29: Theory Behind Tailored Collars & Drafting their Pattern | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 8KPřed 10 měsíci
In this video lesson, we will teach you step-by-step the factors that make up a tailored collar. You will learn why a collar pattern is made the way it is and how construction plays an important role within it. We will then proceed with demonstrating how you can draft your own collar pattern for your bespoke jacket to help you avoid a false start. 𝟭𝟬𝟬 𝗬𝗲𝗮𝗿𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗧𝗮𝗶𝗹𝗼𝗿𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗞𝗻𝗼𝘄𝗹𝗲𝗱𝗴𝗲 𝗶𝗻 𝟮 𝗣𝗹𝗮𝘆𝗹𝗶𝘀𝘁𝘀...
L28: How to Baste & Canvas Tailored Shoulders - Pagoda Model | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 2,8KPřed 11 měsíci
In this video lesson, you will learn to correctly baste the shoulder seams of your jacket and attach it to the body canvas. Since shoulders are one of the most important factors of a tailored jacket, it’s crucial to understand how to do it correctly to avoid messy shoulder seams and shapes. 𝟭𝟬𝟬 𝗬𝗲𝗮𝗿𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗧𝗮𝗶𝗹𝗼𝗿𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗞𝗻𝗼𝘄𝗹𝗲𝗱𝗴𝗲 𝗶𝗻 𝟮 𝗣𝗹𝗮𝘆𝗹𝗶𝘀𝘁𝘀 Join us in a crystal clear, step-by-step virtual apprenti...
L28: How to Baste & Canvas Tailored Shoulders - Traditional Model | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 6KPřed 11 měsíci
In this video lesson, you will learn to correctly baste the shoulder seams of your jacket and attach it to the body canvas. Since shoulders are one of the most important factors of a tailored jacket, it’s crucial to understand how to do it correctly to avoid messy shoulder seams and shapes. 𝟭𝟬𝟬 𝗬𝗲𝗮𝗿𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗧𝗮𝗶𝗹𝗼𝗿𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗞𝗻𝗼𝘄𝗹𝗲𝗱𝗴𝗲 𝗶𝗻 𝟮 𝗣𝗹𝗮𝘆𝗹𝗶𝘀𝘁𝘀 Join us in a crystal clear, step-by-step virtual apprenti...
L27 P3: How to draft & make a Pagoda Shoulder Pad - Pagoda Model | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 6KPřed 11 měsíci
In this third part of our video lesson on shoulder theory, we are going to teach you how to draft and make the challenging Pagoda shoulder pad. Learning to make your own shoulder pads as a tailor is as important as learning to construct the body canvas of your jacket. These techniques allow you to craft any silhouette you can imagine. 𝟭𝟬𝟬 𝗬𝗲𝗮𝗿𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗧𝗮𝗶𝗹𝗼𝗿𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗞𝗻𝗼𝘄𝗹𝗲𝗱𝗴𝗲 𝗶𝗻 𝟮 𝗣𝗹𝗮𝘆𝗹𝗶𝘀𝘁𝘀 Join us in a...
L27 P2: Don't put fullness in the back shoulder! - Pagoda Model | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 1,8KPřed 11 měsíci
In this second part of our video lesson on shoulder theory, we are going to take a deep dive into the industry standard of shoulder construction. While it’s an industry standard, we don’t believe that this method of constructing shoulders is appropriate from a technical level. To help you understand this, we will demonstrate examples and evaluate this method step by step. 𝟭𝟬𝟬 𝗬𝗲𝗮𝗿𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗧𝗮𝗶𝗹𝗼𝗿𝗶𝗻𝗴...
L27 P2: Don't put fullness in the back shoulder! - Traditional Model | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 3,4KPřed 11 měsíci
In this second part of our video lesson on shoulder theory, we are going to take a deep dive into the industry standard of shoulder construction. While it’s an industry standard, we don’t believe that this method of constructing shoulders is appropriate from a technical level. To help you understand this, we will demonstrate examples and evaluate this method step by step. 𝟭𝟬𝟬 𝗬𝗲𝗮𝗿𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗧𝗮𝗶𝗹𝗼𝗿𝗶𝗻𝗴...
L27 P1: Shoulder Anatomy, Seam Position & Design - Pagoda Model | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 1,8KPřed rokem
This video lesson is extremely important if you want to understand tailored shoulders. We have created a comprehensive, 3-part lesson to explain everything you need to know about tailored shoulders in detail. In this first part, we are going to discuss anatomy, seam position and seam design. 𝟭𝟬𝟬 𝗬𝗲𝗮𝗿𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗧𝗮𝗶𝗹𝗼𝗿𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗞𝗻𝗼𝘄𝗹𝗲𝗱𝗴𝗲 𝗶𝗻 𝟮 𝗣𝗹𝗮𝘆𝗹𝗶𝘀𝘁𝘀 Join us in a crystal clear, step-by-step virtual apprent...
L27 P1: Shoulder Anatomy, Seam Position & Design - Traditional Model | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 4KPřed rokem
L27 P1: Shoulder Anatomy, Seam Position & Design - Traditional Model | Online Coat Making Course
L26: Gather & Shape By Angle | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 4,2KPřed rokem
L26: Gather & Shape By Angle | Online Coat Making Course
L25: Baste Side Seams & Fold Front Edges - Pagoda Model | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 1,6KPřed rokem
L25: Baste Side Seams & Fold Front Edges - Pagoda Model | Online Coat Making Course
L25: Baste Side Seams & Fold Front Edges - Traditional Model | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 4,3KPřed rokem
L25: Baste Side Seams & Fold Front Edges - Traditional Model | Online Coat Making Course
How To Canvas A Ladies Jacket | How to Make a Bespoke Jacket Course
zhlédnutí 1,9KPřed rokem
How To Canvas A Ladies Jacket | How to Make a Bespoke Jacket Course
L24: Reinforcing Break Line / Bridling - Pagoda Model | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 1,8KPřed rokem
L24: Reinforcing Break Line / Bridling - Pagoda Model | Online Coat Making Course
L24: Reinforcing Break Line / Bridling - Traditional Model | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 3,9KPřed rokem
L24: Reinforcing Break Line / Bridling - Traditional Model | Online Coat Making Course
L23: Canvassing Jacket - Traditional Model | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 5KPřed rokem
L23: Canvassing Jacket - Traditional Model | Online Coat Making Course
L23: Canvassing Jacket - Pagoda Model | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 2,2KPřed rokem
L23: Canvassing Jacket - Pagoda Model | Online Coat Making Course
L22: How to Canvas Any Tailored Jacket | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 12KPřed rokem
L22: How to Canvas Any Tailored Jacket | Online Coat Making Course
L21: Canvassing a Tailored Jacket - Theory | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 6KPřed rokem
L21: Canvassing a Tailored Jacket - Theory | Online Coat Making Course
L20: Relative Layer Length | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 3,1KPřed rokem
L20: Relative Layer Length | Online Coat Making Course
L19: Preparing Front, Back & Sleeves of Our Pagoda Jacket | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 2,4KPřed rokem
L19: Preparing Front, Back & Sleeves of Our Pagoda Jacket | Online Coat Making Course
L19: Preparing Front, Back & Sleeves of Our Traditional Jacket | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 5KPřed rokem
L19: Preparing Front, Back & Sleeves of Our Traditional Jacket | Online Coat Making Course
L18: Edge To Fold Transfer | Online Coat Making Course
zhlédnutí 3,5KPřed rokem
L18: Edge To Fold Transfer | Online Coat Making Course
This was brilliant. 🤩Thank you 😍 Maybe need a nap now 🤤😂
I am blown away at your method of delivery.
I can't believe I can learn this for free! Thank you!
Why sir, you are not making tutorial on marking bespoke 👕 shirts and pants 👖 Please guide us.🙏💐😊
This is awesome. I love your channel and your explanations. Have you ever thought about getting a perfectly fitted, tailor made shirt/jacket and a generic sized one and given a side by side critique of the differences in things suhc as seam placement, fit etc? I would love to see it as I think it would help me appreciate the differences in well-made garments vs not well-made garments. Thanks!
If you had a jacket with two front panels for eg a shoulder princess dart line would you sew the panels together along the princess line in the fashion fabric and bring the seems together in the two canvas panels and zig zag their butted together edges, then do the pinning and basting? Or would each panel have its own canvas interfacing pinned and basted before sewing them together along the princess line?
I have the Singer Tailoring book which shows how to sew in interfacing. It is catch stitched around the inner edge of the armhole and neckline. Also they show initially the basting of the body to the fore part. I’m just confused about what basting is permanent and what gets removed in the final stage of construction. It looked like in the large basting stitches they went through all layers which I assume would then be removed. So can you clarify please which basting stays in to keep the body and chest canvas in place in the final makeup and I assume that if it stays in then you would only catch a few threads of the fashion fabric so that the basting doesn’t show on the front side of the jacket.
My guy just explained special relativity better than Einstein.
This is a wealth of knowledge. Thank you so much!! I feel I will learn so much from these video's. En ook nog eens leuk dat jullie Nederlands zijn! But honestly so awesome you make it international!! Looking forward to learning from you.
Hola soy de Argentina como puedo conseguir mas tutorial de sastrería?
I bought some lovely Black Watch Tartan years ago when I was in the army to make myself a pair of trews. I didn't pay attention to the way the checks were and laid my patterns with a view to saving fabric. On that tartan there is a double stripe and then a single stripe which repeats in the warp direction. When I put my back and front legs together I realised my mistake and thus could not match the pattern. Sadly I did not have enough fabric to recut the back or the front legs. Expensive mistake.
Hi, you said when fitting a collar to a jacket to wear a shirt and also when measuring the neck circle do it around the shirt collar. If you are making a coat or overcoat that is worn over a shirt and jacket how would you measure the circle to draft the coat collar pattern for the coat?
Thanks Reza.
You commented below that the pattern drafting will come in Module 5. When you made the last three points in the lesson and said don't manipulate or stretch the fabric on a mass produced pattern that wasn't drafted to accomodate this process of fitting you demonstrate. Thus that begs the question aren't we putting the horse before the cart in relation to knowing how to draft a pattern in the first instance in order to do any manipulations and therefore be successful with your method. I realise Module 1 is all about the process of construction using your tried and tested pattern but what if we are trying to follow along but making a jacket for our own fit. If we have a commercial pattern or have drafted one to our own measurements using an industry standard system will we be able to do the stretching and manipulations to fit the collar using your method?
Given that this technique has become somewhat 'industry standardised' is that reflected in pattern drafting systems today? And if so, can you effectively draft a pattern and get successful results by stretching neck and shoulder seams as distinct from adding fullness in the back panel since that panel shoulder seam length is longer than the front panel?
When pattern making using the taken measurements of an individual where should you add length in the front and back panels at the shoulder seam to accomodate a shoulder pad? I assume the thickness and shape of the pad also impact the extra length required?
Wouldn't Princess seams allow more control over how you can shape the panels over the shoulder and thus around the neck. Perhaps not for a mans jacket but for a womens jacket?
I may have missed something or comment from an earlier lesson, however, when does the lapel get pad stitched to the canvas? Wouldn't this be done before a fitting? What would be really useful is a simple pdf doc showing the order of construction as a numerical list of tasks for each section of the assembly.
I live in Tokyo and suits are standard for almost all men in white collar jobs, so Tokyo leads the world capitals in classic men’s tailoring
Thank you Reza I will more appreciate you if you teach me how to cut a jacket in Persian language if you are a Persian person or if you prepare a package of teaching how to cut a jacket with Persian description I would like to pay it. Thank you
What is use of the sleeve peach line?
Hi Reza! I was wondering on a scale of 1-10 how necessary would you say the wool felt lining is? Using my own custom patterns I have created four different tailors ham inner bags and filled them fully with sawdust. Before I sew and cover them with the exterior fabric, I’m wondering if I should baste some wool felt onto them.
Thanks Reza.
Im doing a womens coat in melton wool with shoulder princess seams so the front is two panels. I assume you would cut the canvas in two panels too? But in this instance what about a wedge in the canvas? Is it required for a womans pattern? Ah just seen the video you have on canvassing a womens jacket. Ill watch that :)
Yes, please watch the video on canvassing a women's jacket. And as long as women have hollow shoulders (which most of them have) then yes a wedge in the shoulder is necessary. Unless you deliberately want to ignore it and create an extra large loose fit with a messy look for style. Reza
@@OFFICIALISOT Thanks Reza, the coat I’m doing is a fit and flare style but has around 17cm of total ease in the bust area. I assume the more fitted a garment is, the more there is a need for a shoulder wedge.
@@OFFICIALISOT One follow up question. If on a womens pattern there is a shoulder princess seam would you make the canvass with this seam closed then open it to put in a wedge? Would that not nullify the princess seam which effectively is a dart?
If Im doing a jacket for a woman would I have a wedge in the canvas at the shoulder? Does a womens tailored jacket have a similar canvas layout to the mens?
great
Omg, can’t believe this is free
Thanks. Great teaching
Este vídeo me parece el mejor hasta el momento 😮 especialmente la recopilación de puntos a comprobar y tener en cuenta cuando evaluamos si el cuello está correctamente alineado con la línea de quiebre. Fabuloso!
Thanks Reza.
That’s Matthew!!
I enjoy the tidiness of your mind and your presentation. You are a natural teacher.
Avery Lucas is legendary. I remember his craft at Saint Laurie in the 1990s.
thank you guys for this very interesting interview! Its time to sit down and think more seriously about my tailoring ambitions and the building of my business.
Thank you, Resa. Your idea of this video was very interesting and I appreciate your input. Just as you said at the beginning, all principles described in the book are just as well applicable to no matter what business, as long as you're 150% committed to it. Needless to say, that comes with a lot of work, passion and conviction it can be done. In my modest opinion, the lack of these ingredients cannot lead to anything last standing. The authors are very carismatic people, but I've watched the video not keeping in mind this aspect. And yes, you have to be truthful to yourself, and this is the only good start in anything, including business. Thank you again.
how to get course pattern draf for tradisional and pagoda sir..
Very interested, interestingly thank you.
Thank you all, it was interesting and I would like to review this video again! 😊
I hear the word "branding" and I just want to puke.
Im sooo glad i found your channel Bravo❤
Це відео таке прекрасне, цікавіше за детектив, дивилась не відриваючись. Дякую!
So... how do you attach the Collar and under collar together?