Video

Pwd pa send ng code po😢

Why 18 frames per second?

I o to właśnie chodzi! Prosta, rzetelna informacja praktyka, który zna się na swoim fachu! Zaczynam właśnie swoją przygodę z Ender7. Jako człowiek, który od zawsze pracował z drewnem wiem, że nie ma nic "na skróty"! Jeśli nie zaczniesz dobrze siekierą, papier ścierny już nic nie poprawi... Każdy materiał ma swoje możliwości i ograniczenia i każde narzędzie też je ma! Ta skromna naklejka "max speed 180mm per second" świadczy o znajomości tematu! Musisz poznać materiał, w którym pracujesz i narzędzia, których używasz - to tajemnica sukcesu. Dziękuję za to video - przywraca mi wiarę w zasady, które mi wpojono. Wygląda na to, że kluczowe są: temperatura filamentu, temperatura stołu, prędkość posuwu i... grubość warstwy! Kto chce szybkich wyników, będzie pisał o słabych wynikach. Na dobre wydruki trzeba po prostu czekać. Ta robota wymaga cierpliwości! Dziękuję

I want to move the bed higher but cant loosen the screws anymore? what have I done wrong?

I love this!

Yes.

まさかの16進数

Sorry, I didn't express myself well, I would like to know what program you used to assemble the mpeg. thanks

genial.qualo programa que voce está usando? obrigado

Thanks for the info as I am new to printing and waiting for my ender 7 i hope you will share more info. Its difficult to find people sharing there Ender 7 tips and tricks. What are your thoughts and setting's for the ender 7. Greetings from Holland, Frits

Very nicely done. It is nonetheless tempting to buy a Kodak Scanza, for example, for in the order of $160. You feed the 8mm film into a slot in the Scanza, and hey presto....digital copy. That being said, the engineering on display here is impressive.

DSLRs dont like this sort of work load. Expect the shutter to have a rather short life.

Ingenious and well thought out, excellent video please make more videos.

CODE AND SCHEMA

Very cool nice idea.

Это то, что нужно! Спасибо за идею!!!

nice

sweet, a nice arduino project pcb...:)

so the bridge worked for the inner circle part, but the gear is still printing hollow inside with cura, is there a setting to tell the slicer (or blender) to fill in those gaps?

can i get access to your code for this project

Hello! Nice work! I´ve seen some vids from other users and i try to build my own scanner. I am collecting ideas to set it up and participiate by the lessons learned from you an others. I have some ideas: The collecting reel / spool should be connectet with magnet transmission to avoid to much torque on the film. The light-scource is an high power led from a cheap 15Euro Headlamp. To adjust the color-temperature i will use software like photoshop or gimp. There you have the tools "Cropping" "Rotating" "Whitebalance" and you are able to adjust the exposure via "gradation curve" in small limits. Batch-work in a Folder is also avaliable. The transver from jpeg to mpeg is then via blender - like you do. Or do you know another open-scource way? Greetings from Germany, sorry for my bad english

excellent work. I like the idea of the transport/ claw mechanism being away from the gate. What a great idea.

Genius. 👍

I made mine using an old Standard/Super 8mm projector by removing the bulb, transformer and electrics and installing stepper motor, Arduino, LED light source and camera trigger using magnets on the shutter via reed switch, as it makes more sense to modify something that already has the film transport mechanism in-place i.e most of the work is already done and has a ready built housing for easy storage. Having said that, building from the ground up is a serious challenge and for that I have to congratulate you on a fantastic job well done :-) Perhaps I might do a video of my build and post that onto You Tube...maybe??

i can't find the Add Gear panel at all :( i am sorry but i am really dumb

Great idea! Thanks for sharing!

You have given me great ideas for my scanner design. If you see my channel you will see I do time lapse videos with a modified camera. Eg tulip 21 day time lapse. This is slow way to scan film but much better quality, after all some of my plant videos were one frame every 15 mins. Time is not an issue when scanning valuable family film.

Like the fact the film remains in the same direction during the scan. Other scanners reverse the film bend over the sprockets which could damage an old film. Well done!

Well done! That is exactly the project I am working on now. I plan to use an old projector for film transport driven by stepper motors. Having the separate frames gives more control over editing. Like to exchange emails so we can keep in contact? Jim

Nice contraption, great idea.

Very impressive.

Amazing. Any result footage from the film? Btw why halogen lamp and not the LED one?

genial

бестолковый ролик, не описано самое главное как перемещается пленка, как сделать грейферный механизм

un desastre

there is the possibility to transfer the negative and then change to positive on the computer

I love your approach to problem-solving. Great job! I was wondering, could you trigger the camera to take a 3 or 5 frame bracket exposure? That way you could approach an HDR workflow and you might get better images. Also, have you updated this project? It would be great to see it if so. Thanks for sharing.

Thank you Kees, I tried to make it easy to follow, good to see it works!

Which type of light filter did you use between the projector and the camera?

Hi, on form 3 is it possible to use the open mode( being able to use other brands of resins) as with form 2?

Happened to me today and blew 6 servos, no smoke just movement fail, didn't realise what was happening until after the third pair smoked.

Thanks!

Very nice. I wonder, how many exposures have you made in all, and do you expect the camera to hit a limit on the number of exposures? I ask because my rig (a total hack by comparison, hit a limit and the camera failed. czcams.com/video/Nzb32rtTIv0/video.html I'm thinking of retooling with a Raspberry Pi and the Camera 2 module.

I've dabbled in this area quite a bit over (on and off) over the last decade and tried quite a few things. I appreciate some of the challenges involved and really admire seeing how others respond to these challenges. In this case it looks like you may be using an intermittent film mechansm, maybe one taken from an old projector? If this is the case, that seems like a great solution to get really good registration/stability of the frames. I've tried a few other things and there is always a lot of wobble requiring stabilization of the frames in post.

Nice project. I made a 3D engine with my ARDUINO and provided all the the links on my video

Excellent, Do you have a printable file for 3.0 like you do 1.0? Any new examples of what you've scanned? thanks

You show us it works for you - Please tell us or show us HOW

Hi I'm looking to create double gear not single but I don't know how to do it please can you help me

I'm curious as to why you used halogen rather than an RGB led with adjustable gains (for color correction)?

soo nice ..