Video

@@thegaulbegaul That’s a really good question, that is a very popular item and I would think 99% of those are made overseas so quality is going to be hit or miss. I just used my last Schrader from a ten year old stash so I am on the hunt as well. Amazon has several sellers, I will probably pick the one with the best ratings and reasonable price. They seem to be pretty cheap if you buy the assortments. FYI: this was a common problem going on forty years ago too, those little bastards will leak if you look at them the wrong way.

@@solinspired4428 Hi, it definitely cuts down on sun damage (ultraviolet) and heat soaking due to preventing the windows from sun loading the interior.

@@thegaulbegaul I have never used thread sealant, the band or o-ring around the valve core body does the sealing.

@@nicklp3745 I’m not really sure what your point was but thanks for the comment.

Hi, here is an amazon link for the exact one I have: www.amazon.com/MASTERCOOL-58490-Universal-Remover-Installer/dp/B00069V310/ref=asc_df_B00069V310?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80745439395605&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584345029245908&psc=1

If you get to it in time then it's well worth it!

@@atmphil1 Actually based on my forty plus years experience, the valves usually don’t leak until they are disturbed. In other words they fail to reseal after service when you remove the hose. Before the Kyoto Protocol Freon was 88 cents a can, now it’s $10 a can for r-134. A tool like this will pay for itself after two or three uses. Releasing refrigerant into the air is stupid….

Yeah, I remember our snap on rep who used to “fix” the warranty stuff at the plant site. They were and are obscenely expensive but they had really good stuff if you needed it to be that good.

I recall very little fluid loss, if possible have shaft removal side sit slightly higher than non removal side to keep fluid from spilling out.

@@mogoolh I can’t function without caffeine, it helps numb minor aches and pains but an unfortunate side effect is shaky hands.

@@rwcraver I can’t remember if I showed it but I just dip my finger in motor oil and lube the o-ring. Yes they are easy to pinch and tear!

@@official2detail 2005 J35A7 (VCM).

Hi Jesus, they don’t list the ABS pre covered for your 1971 Demon because they did not get one piece headliners until 1972 model year. If you want to use the one piece pre-covered headliner in tier grain like the one in the video use part number MA2049 for 1972-76 Duster, Demon and Dart Sport. I can’t say for sure it’s a direct replacement, you may have to modify or reuse the sail panels, etc.

3M 5200

Hi, thanks for the comments and questions. Going off what I think I know, wider lobe separation (14 vs 12) typically but not always will tend to move the power band higher and deliver a smoother idle. That being said, the HR-12 was too lopey for 2:79 gears so 3:55’s were swapped in and drive ability was greatly improved. We have not dyno’d our set up but seat of the pants and stopwatch suggest well over 300hp at the rear wheels. Probably running high twelves.

My son did that, they are LED’s.

Make sure to lube the advance plate get some oil down the shaft. Also ck the vacuum advance while you are there.

Thanks for the comments, and the FMC XR311 was the precursor to the Lamborghini Cheetah, in fact the Cheetah used a Chrysler LA based V8 just like the XR did. FMC actually sued Lamborghini over the obvious similarities in design. I think there were more Fire Foxes made than all of the XR, Cheetah and LM002’s combined.🙂🏁

Yes, pretty sure it was. And thanks for watching to the end🙂👍🏁

LOL!!!! Just pace yourself and walk away from it when you need to. This project requires patience, persistence and some careful trimming. Grab a beer or favorite beverage and watch all of part three, learn from my frustrations and it will turn out better than the original chintzy cardboard laminated one. I love the way it added some class to my old A body.

Wrong!

Don’t tell my Duster that!😄

Supertech holds the same API standard as any other oil.

@@markwarnberg9504 It does not hold up as well! It does not protect the engine as well! If you’re not working a vehicle hard enough it won’t matter!

@@Zach-sg5uu If the oil meets the manufactuers requirement as stated in the owners manual that is all that matters. If the book say´s API/SL and the oil bottle say´s API/SN the oil is way above the needed lubrication requirments.

Wow! That is expensive!

Same, oil is crazy expensive here in mexico. The cheapest I have ever seen sinthetic oil is at sam's club on a sale. It was 5w30 Mobile 1 basic sinthetic fuel saver stuff for $35 a 5 quart jug. Normal no discount price for that is $65 😮 Even at Walmart the cheapest convential oil is some 20w60 garbage and they ask $8 a quart for that. I am better off just going to autozone and paying for their $35 5 quart conventional oil combo deals with free stp filter. Can't believe autozone has cheaper oil than Walmart

@@Brandon-uy1uv I guess it really depends on location. I have found the box auto parts stores to be consistently the most expensive using $35.00 as their best price. I find the big jugs of dual rated super tech to be the best everyday price for my old push rod engines. I always shoot for 3 and 3, $3.00/qt. And $3 for the filter.

That’s a very good question. There has been a lot of debate on shelf life for motor oil. If it is stored in a cool dry place it should be good for several years. The additive package in motor oil can break down over time and may be more vulnerable in plastic containers that can absorb moisture as they are more permeable than steel. As for the oil filters, if stored properly and not in an attic or hot humid garage, should keep many years. If you score some filters that are 5 years old or more and are unsure how they were stored it might be wise to cut one open and inspect for peace of mind, the filter media can break down and the cans internals will rust in high humidity over time.

@@millionmilegarage9587 Got it, thank you.

I did some research the other day and apperantly oil filters can be stored for years and years without issues. Oil on the other hand is best to avoid after about 4 to 5 years from manufacturer date since it breaks down over time

Talk is jeep

You’ll never be the man your mother is😀

Hmmm, at 2:01 I showed how to re-install it, the reverse of removal. Sorry you didn’t have 2 minutes to watch it, less time than it took you to post.

No sprechen sie deutsch