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Thanks for the video

Is that rubber grommet in the middle of the piston necessary?

I was jumping a car and my battery died just from letting it charge there battery with there car off so my only guess is my alternator happened to be on its last leg at that point. I was able to drive home after getting a jump but barely had any power and the voltmeter on the dash was at 8 volts then jumped up to normal voltage then dropped back to 8 again so i guess mine was not charging consistently. Strange because the brushes are fine maybe the regulator went bad. Stinks because ebay has new ones for cheap and they are motorcraft but i need it asap so i have to pay over 200 at o reillys. When I spin the old one by hand I get 0.23 volts.

Never trust something that bleeds for days and doesn't die.

You can also do a airblade by using a paper clip jump pens 4 and 13 and there you go this video is nonsense show me how to calibrate the brakes that's what you do otherwise take it down

Thank you for this video, saved my day. thanks man

On my truck i didnt go that far into it. I pulled the fitting for the hose and drilled it on drill size bigger for more flow and that helped my case.

I did the RR,RL,FR,RL bleeding but when I reach the stroke abs module bleeding the message bleeding procedure fail Any ideas why this is happening

You can just hold the leads together and it will tell you the temperature

Just bought one of these off of the bay for £60 'excellent working order'; I think I got a good deal.

you should revisit the alternator test video

ok so my old alternator will turn the light on but not off doing this test. i tried 2 new alternators 1 from a ford focus and a reman denso from a toyota and the light will light up if you touch the light ground to the case but not to any of the 3 pins on either of the new alts. so either i have 2 bad new alts or this test does not work for all common alternators.

kind of skip to step their didn't you? I believe you have to hook a battery up to the alternator first otherwise everything you're doing is useless.

Adjusting the e brake on these Eldorado caliper not only makes the e brake actually work, it actually improves pedal feel as well. I have the same and they've always been temperamental. I've Set up as well as possible and parking brake is just sub-par. I prefer internal drum hat style parking brakes but quite frankly didn't have the room for them on a custom build. These Eldorado calipers are the solution when you want a mechanical e-brake but are running only rotors/calipers. Line locks are even better imo but then your 100% relying in the hydraulic system.

Thank you kindly sir.

What goes bad if there is too much play and you dont adjust it and you have a bigger gap than recommended?

Your talking about cutting the pulse width or field wire or whatever you called it it doesn’t matter on the 2011 and up GM’s? Actually it’d be 07’ to 13. Further more they have a 2 wire plug. So I’d warn anyone against choppin wires to get full output since he’s comparing apples to oranges. Additionally as if your weren’t wrong enough the BCM controls the 3-4 different charge rates

Ii have a 2006 nytro, pretty much same sled, that I bought in the summer. Last night was my first time riding it, when I pull the throttle to the bar, which is pretty darn impressive by the way, and let off again, the triangle with exclamation ⚠️ thing starts flashing and the machine bogs right down to idle and the sled stops, if I try moving again the machine sputters and gives off a series of small backfires. I have to wait approximately a minute to get going again, unless as I discovered, if I reach down and shut the machine off and start it back up, the machine doesn’t have to even come to a full stop, the sled starts to act completely normal again. Also, the speedo doesn’t tell me my speed or count the miles or kilometres. My one friend is telling me the sled is fuel injected and just needs injector cleaner, my other friend thinks the computer or ecm needs to be replaced…. I’m so confused on what to do

your a G, did a swap on the rear of my troopy and hadnt changed pads yet but didnt figure these were any different then other brakes and went to do my pads in the parking lot of canadian tire and got so frustrated cause the piston wouldnt move. figured there had to be a "trick" to it but alas im not a smart phone guy and couldnt look it up. put everything back together and watched this at home. perfect. worked flawlessly. thank you!

Hi, Bruno, i am very excited about this video, would you please send me notes on Bench test wire connections, mostly indicant light, battery terminals Pos and Neg to the alternator. My alternator has a two-point connector not three. Would you please help bro?

Thanks for the video helped a lot saved me a lot of aggravation

Very informative especially explaining what each post is and what function it performs. I have a 2001 GMC that I installed a 5.3 LS same year. As you know there's only one wire on that alternator for the ignition to signal when voltage is required to the battery. Because the old vortec set up used multiple wires. The brown wire is not used with the 5.3 so my battery lamp in dash sporadically illuminates but the voltage gauge reads 14ish volts when running. Can I tap the alternator batt light and connect in the dash to battery lamp or is the circuit tied into the PCM? THANKS

Top video..well explained..Thanks bro

The brown wire is to charge/ turn on the regulator for alternator to put out power.

I am doing this with my 81 Trans am, looks like same calipers. I hope it works the way you did it. Trans am have staggered brakes, so one side has opposite thread.

clear....to the point....informative....no loud annoying music = other video makers please take note

Thank you! There are so many videos about adjusting these calipers that are as clear as mud but your video is very easy to understand.

Where the multimeter leads connecting to

Can someone confirm this makes steering easier?

What’s with the centre rubber grommet? Both of my new ones leaked from the centre hole within a year

All -Trec?

iS THIS A 2 WIRE ALTERNATOR WITH BUILT IN EXCITOR WITHIN?

Do u work on 1984 edor cadillac I need left and rightreal calipers

Do u fix on 1984 edor.cadillac

Mine keeps saying that’s it’s failed. Any ideas why?

So simple! Thank you so much. 0:07

Really helpful video Help us fix the Nissan Prairie Alternator 👍🏽

I have one with a loader.. I love love love it! Can you or anyone confirm the hydraulics run off the transmission? The manual doesn't specify, but what I can see is SAE 80 gear oil. Seems stiff to me for hydraulic but that's all I can find.

Thank you very much for posting this video. You may not realize how important this information is. Thank you once again !

Interesting... I have two of the 15HP Bolens diesels - one hydro, the other gear and both of them are 3 cylinders. This must be one of the earlier Bolens?

Nice.. thanks for the video bro

Thank you for uploading this video. My father has a G174 and was looking for a guide for this.

Thank you for your video

Do you have to remove abs relay?

I have a 1989 suburban. with four inch lift and 35s...a few months ago it started to get stiff on slow turns and parallel park after it warmed up. No fun..I took out the valve and cleaned the screen. but didn't even think of taking it apart, let alone crank it tight for added psi. The fluid was also crusty, so I was just about to flush it and was prepared to replace the pump if that didn't work. This gives me another chance to spend that money other other stuff the burb needs and a long term solution for something that could have potentially happened again if I just replaced it like a noob. What you describes sounds like my issue for sure. glad I found this. crossing my fingers it works. cheers!

true duals or crossflow?

The bench test, just what I was looking for 💪. Subbed, belled

Hi , thank you man , perfect , 👌👍🙏

Thank you for making this video, I just got a G244

you had it backwards first is the spring the the valve