Video

Glad it was helpful!

Its been a decent machine other than the 3pt stays up when it running... one of these days I'll dig into it.

yes

In the case of this car the main complaint was during acceleration it would lunge as the power was trying to go to the rear wheels then slip and change back to the front wheels.

@SchnebsGarage OK. It's possible mine could be a joint or bearing for the crank shaft. If I had to guess, for some reason, it feels more on the right side. It's weird that it only happens at certain speeds and will thump more as I approach higher speed. Sometimes, it happens more than other times, too. Even when going perfectly straight.

@@dknowbeatz3665 Did you check your CV axle? It sounds almost like a CV going but not exactly, they usually make a clicking sound at low speeds but get quiet at higher speed. Just a thought.

Glad you liked it!

The 'correct' oil is yamaha brand but its just 10w30 in that thing NOT transmission fluid as some whackos on here will try to tell ya.

@@SchnebsGarage so use regular 10w30 motor oil ? Or

@@danielmirra1261 yessir

Ended up replacing the side airbag sensor in the door, first part they sent out was wrong one which is why it never made the video.

@@SchnebsGarage Awesome! Thank you for the help!

@@MrJChave No prob good luck.

Nope, the cables covered in the video are all there is.

@@SchnebsGarage Thank you !!

@@willingtooppose7919 np

7-11 ft lbs, basically snug like you have them is normal. If you overtighten them they have a tendency to break off the aluminum clutch basket on older machines.

Thanks

Inside the fuel tank on the pump. Yes its bizarre but thats where they put em on the 6.0L.

@@SchnebsGarage it's that hard to do it myself?

@@jerryboy84 Take (Or tilt) the box off the truck. Its 6 or 8 bolts and the filler neck screws. Couple hefty lads can lift it off easy. Then just remove the lines and fuel sending unit from the top of the tank. Way easier than removing the fuel tank to get at it which almost always breaks the plastic fuel fittings and will cost you hundreds to replace.

@@SchnebsGarage I appreciate your help thank you so much 👍💯

@@jerryboy84 Np, good luck with it, I have a few videos removing this box if you need any info on it. I've had it off 3 times for various fixes.

Engine is a Chinese clone of a Honda 50cc, they made that engine for decades and is probably the most common engine in Asia. Look up torque specs for that ... should be very easy to find.

lots of wiggling, swearing and they'll come out eventually. You cannot get them out with the fuel rails still attached, at least not without breaking things.

Before buying parts do a thorough check of wires and plugs for breaks or corrosion. If all is good then the actuator is probably the culprit. Good Luck. ;)

@@SchnebsGarage Thanks will try that.

Most bikes its just the shift lever that keeps it in place. Some machines need a shim or two as the shaft gets worn it can drift and come in contact with the back of the clutch basket and cause missed shifts if it moves inward to far. Hope that helps.

@@SchnebsGarage idk what it could be because the shaft dosnt stay out with the shifter and when it’s pushed in it misses the shift nub part but there is supposed to be a collar or something on it and I can’t find it , it’s a 84 cr80

@@killawatt_fpv Ok looked up your bike, there is a circlip that goes on the end of the shift shaft that is supposed to keep the shaft from moving back to the right. Part # 94510-14000 . You can buy em from most hardware stores its a 14mm circlip. Good Luck !!

@@SchnebsGarage it goes on outside?

@@killawatt_fpv According to the schematic I was looking at yes

I assume your referring to the kill switch? Honestly it doesnt matter which is which, the switch just opens the circuit to cut ground to the coil.

Its possible your clutch plates are stuck together, only takes one to be stuck and you wont be able to release the clutch. I have a video on this exact issue " How to fix that stuck clutch " I believe is the title. It might be the issue and best of all its a free fix. Good luck.

@@SchnebsGarage right on man! I appreciate your response . I’m bout to watch it right now! Thank you!🙏🏽

You gotta love when everything feels like its breaking at the same time.

@@SchnebsGarage yea that's what's happening now im talk to my dad see if he can help me pay getting it fixed I do love my truck cause I use it to take my dirt bike to were I ride so I gotta have my truck an I have nissan altima its the best car I ever own the only thing is it has cvt transmission an last summer I changed transmission fluid cause it would get hot go lumb mode change fluid now it's good really good car im west Virginia I stay an drive dc every day it has 180 thousand miles been good car though

Those should do the job. Good Luck !

Much thanks you’ve been a huge help!!

Yea i have a long love hate relationship with chevy transmissions.

They do sell a deeper rivnut / nutsert but they're hard to find sometimes. Look up "Plusnut" Amazon sells em, they're basically the same thing they just have deeper shank and 4 claws more or less that grip, should do the job.

leaves and stuff come in through the cowl vent, fan blows em to the lowest point. New cars have cabin air filters to stop that but the Jeep just eats that stuff up. Lot of guys put a screen on there when they take the heater box out but nothing really stops it short of periodic cleaning and not parking under trees.

@@SchnebsGarage OK, thanks!

Odd, sometimes folks assemble them wrong, there should be no washer/spacer between the gear and the case, if there is remove it and try putting the clip on. Other than that I'm at a loss.

should be ok for a dump trailer since the weight of the dump bed will push it back down. Probably a good idea to put a screen type cover over that open end so bugs and moisture dont get in there when its not in use.

Without a capture nut that would be kind of weak. Nutserts are a quick and easy way to handle that problem.

LOL ok the vapor RETURN line... feel better ? Clearly didnt actually watch the video as I say VAPOR at lead half a dozen times.

No, you don't need to remove the clutch for this job. The push rod that goes from the lever through the clutch will be under tension so you will have to open the right side cover and just take out the 5 bolts to relieve pressure to get that rod back in. Hope this helps.

That is correct

Thank you!!

One on the front of the intake and one on the back of the intake. Coolant cycles through the intake manifold via its own passage. If you dont have those then you have either an aftermarket or someone has blocked them off which was relatively common to see years ago.

Its my happy place... except when junk keeps breaking while Im tryin to build rat rods ;)

Glad it helped

The machine only holds 2.5 L of oil so it shouldn't be dumping out but there should definitely be some oil in there.

Well for a long time they didnt have return lines.. There's plenty of reason to argue both cases. Short answer no, not for low pressure fuel systems.

@@SchnebsGarage Thanks- at almost 70 the thought of plumbing isn't really on the menu lol great video thanks for the quick reply- Vic in Utah

@@vicc6744 No problem at all, thanks for watchin ;)

Thanks!

Yea at 8:00 or so I took the VC apart and mentioned the smell.

@@SchnebsGarage yeah, wasn't sure if you meant the smell of the burnt clutch or if it was gear oil. Thank you for the great video! I just changed my coupler with your help.

@@ourkid2000 awesome, glad it helped.

Yea, they can get pretty bad. You can imagine how all that carbon impacts the weight of the valve and effects airflow into the chamber.

I have, its not fun.

Yes I did, 40 yrs of wear and tear and just had to clean the contacts and it works perfect.

Ignition systems on these things is total garbage. I'd recommend scrapping it all and going with an aftermarket GM HEI style distributor (runs on 1 wire, hot ignition) .. if you're doin it on the cheap there's some on Amazon for around $150. Name brand stuff will run ya bit more, but either way its a vast improvement over the stock ignition system. Also grab a weber carburetor and ditch that thing they call a carb, you'll thank me later. ;)

Thank you again!! So did u eliminatethe idle module and all associated wiring? What brand and model of HEI r u recommending? Do u have a vid on that install?

@@ws56c62 Yes, module is in the trash. Only thing you need for the HEI setup is a hot ignition wire. The distributor comes with a suggested wire to use if memory serves. I did a full rewire on mine so I just picked my own wire, not hard to find one that'll work. I have a video that shows my carb setup but not the distributor install. czcams.com/video/HHExHWY7kt0/video.htmlsi=PiHdyeS01-Hx1LDq . Distributor is pretty straight forward and I know I have a few how to vids on HEI distributor install someplace ;)

That tab only moves a very small amount, it almost feels like its not moving at all. Also are you sure there's no screw in the other hole. Later models used a screw instead of that push tab. Look at around 9:20 or so I show the location of where the screw would be on newer ones. Good luck. Also some are really stuck in there and might need some penetrating oil to loosen up.