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Looking forward to hearing from you, please 🙏

That sounds about right. The top speed would be about 130 miles per hour at 6000 rpm How much gas are you using? This is straight six 2.6L

⁠@@inovahightechltd thank you so much for your reply. About 14L @ 100 miles. It’s 6 cylinder straight yes. I’ve been advised to change the rear Differential as there are two models, one is slower than the other!! The issue is that in order to get to 70miles per hours, I need to get the engine RPM height which rises the fuel consumption

@IbrahimKADDOUR-j5b yes, the US model has a different ratio and lower maximum speed, but puts more torque out. 14L / 100km is correct for this car They are not very fuel efficient. The diesel version is better. A/C will add about 1L per 100km so das automatic transmission

@@inovahightechltdthank you so much for your reply. The car is UK right hand side. The only thing I am not getting is that the engine has to be in night RPM in order to get reasonable speed. It has no AC By the way

@@loaialtmiimi4426 Mercedes Benz W126 560SEL 3/89 Testing & Overhaul of Electrical System and All Control Units Part 5 czcams.com/video/XmraDLVZfDY/video.html Mercedes Benz W126 560SEL 3/89 Testing & Overhaul of Electrical System and All Control Units Part 7 czcams.com/video/7TKZDir4WAQ/video.html Mercedes Benz W126 560SEL 3/89 Testing & Overhaul of Electrical System and All Control Units Part 6 czcams.com/video/6LqwWQF7jUw/video.html Mercedes Benz W126 560SEL 3/89 Testing & Overhaul of Electrical System and All Control Units Part 9 czcams.com/video/kCGXOKsyXyY/video.html Mercedes Benz W126 560SEL 3/89 Testing & Overhaul of Electrical System and All Control Units Part 10 czcams.com/video/r61NPNFytjM/video.html

@@jamieplays2007 replace the charcoal canister

@inovahightechltd okay, thank you, is there a way I can test it?

@@jamieplays2007 the charcoal is used up. The canister vents to the outside. If you smell rotten gasoline then that means the charcoal is used up. That’s it

@@inovahightechltd ok

@inovahightechltd okay, it just seams odd to me the it would be used after 76k miles

@@christophercercone the unit should have come with a manual. Do you have the manual?

@@Akadectra thank you for the info! Google / CZcams Ai checks every comment for spam, phishing and inappropriate content. Sometimes these comments show up in my CZcams studio comment section under “held for review” but even when I approve the comment, CZcams still won’t post them and they show up under “held for review”. I guess yesterday, Friday July 19th 2024 was just a precursor of what there is to come……

@@Akadectra this would be this alternator as-pl.com/en/p/A0395

​@@inovahightechltd Exactly....I tried to post that link....but YT didn't allow me...

@Akadectra I can

AS-PL produces replacements and sometimes improves the original design... A couple of weeks ago I changed the alternator in my daily driver, a 1998 E430, and used the AS-PL alternator. They had changed the position of the cable connections so that you are able to do the whole installation from the top of engine bay in opposite to the Mercedes original alternator where you have to work from underneath the car for cable connections...

I could put one together like this for you. It’s really not that difficult. I have to get the break lines from advanced autoparts and the fuel tester from Amazon The parts are listed in the description of the video

Bosch, I bought them from Kent Bergsma back in December 2020

The car was a non smoking vehicle until I got it

Mike, no lollygagging around here.,..

Unfortunately, no. I bought the manual. You can buy your manual here: mbmanuals.com/

@@victormartinez-pq7yj in your car or where to buy them?

@inovahightechltd to purchase them. I have new lifters and want to put them in my 380sl. But can't find anywhere to buy the various size shims

@@victormartinez-pq7yj the part numbers for each size are listed in the MB manual. They are available through Mercedes Benz dealership service department

No, not really. I checked amp draw of single fan and then two fan unit. Both were around 10 to 15 Amps. The relays I got installed are rated for 20A Fuse rating I used is the same as well. The wiring in my car from fans to resistor and relay / fuse box is 2.5 mm2 You may want to check your relays, fuse and wiring

@@Player-jz1bf I would adjust the mixture to 0.5 to 1 % CO on exhaust rather than the duty cycle. CO is adjusted at idle rpm then let it idle for about 30 seconds then rev up to 3000 rpm and watch CO - should fall below CO at idle. Then rev down to idle and let idle for a minute or two. CO should go back to the previous idle CO. Repeat this a few times until CO returns to same idle CO You may have to tweak the mixture adjust a little bit during this process

Garry, the crankshaft has two turns for one turn on camshaft and distributor You need to take off both camshaft covers and align camshaft tdc marks with crankshaft tdc mark. Only then can you adjust distributor

czcams.com/video/HmBpeBP3ZkE/video.htmlsi=p9EKjsCMWLPSYAR8

Is that WHY my NOX was high? Wow, I have to remove BOTH vales covers again to see camshaft DTC? CAR DIVES ok, but a bit weak and unstable RPM

@@glim888 there is probably a lot more wrong You need to get the MB service manuals and do the entire diagnostics in group 07.3 This is beyond the comment section or by phone to guide you through this

I'd replace those chain guides and valves cover gaskets, and make sure TDC on both camshafts were inline .....then instead distributor cap.....I thought rotor was pointing close to cycliner#1....not too sure. In that case , could I pull out the distributor assembly and reinstall rotor to point at #1 cylinder?

Hi Gary, TDC on Crankshaft? Just making sure I a understand your question correctly since this video deals with the fuel metering unit

Yes, I was going to do timing adjustments for the distributor cap and DTC inline...and saw that additional pin that sticking out near those numders...numbers.... What's that pin for?

Could I call you to explain what I am trying to do and have some questions regarding this plate adjustment and ruff idling....on my engine....cold hard start issues?

Again, the pin on the engine block or the tiny pin on the balancer?

Pin on the balancer

Hi Dan, Thanks for the Monarch info. I believe they are still available in Germany. I presented the MB regulator in this video czcams.com/video/rHlbG2n7NqU/video.htmlsi=CMcBlJnEjfmwrhaw

Gary, only by punching.

Yes, but this has turned out to be littered with obstacles

I guess you meant but does not work with fan control Check regulator module. Mine was bad too

Have you checked your ignitiontiming?

Need to check ball bearing removal

@@inovahightechltd how to remove ?

@glim888 you have to carefully drill out the ball

Could I cut off top 0.5in?

Another guy mentioned....if the original ball is still on the part, do not attempt to remove or adjust from the top

Low idle in neutral / park with a/c compressor running or in drive?

@@inovahightechltd 700 in park with AC on, 500 in gear with AC on. The AC won't turn off, I likely have to replace the dashboard switch assembly but I'm in Las Vegas and it's supposed to be 107F today. Not messing with a functioning AC!! I just opened up the bypass tube and haven't started it yet.

@@VegasMikeP229 it’s probably 550 in gear which is normal. The AC Kompressor Relay send one 12V signal to the idle speed control unit which increases rpm by about 50 to 100rpm The A/C compressor relay is controlled by the climate control unit. Pull the compressor relay and see what happens first. It appears that your idle speed valve and idle speed controller are fine

@@inovahightechltd Ok, it changed but I'm leaving it alone for a while. Hot, it idles at 900 in neutral but around 700 in gear w/AC. The ICV will go almost closed at about 950ma, hang, then close at 1.3A. I'm hoping that just running it for a while will fix the little "catch". I put in an open bypass tube and I'm guessing that's probably why the idle went up. Any idea what the hole size should be? The car ('87 560SEC) had a terrible idle and huge hesitation on minor acceleration. Three different shops have replaced pretty much all the rubber "stuff" on top of the engine, rebuilt but validated Fuel Distributor, new injectors & buckets & o-rings. Even with all that, the idle was close to smooth (most of the time) and acceleration was mostly smooth. Hold the idle at 700 and acceleration was *always* smooth. Yep, multiple problems in a row.

@@VegasMikeP229 this is a bit high of an idle. I made like 3 or 4 videos about those idle speed valves: Mercedes W126 4.2&5.6L - actual test of modified idle speed air valve from tutorial video czcams.com/video/0HMXlDvioxw/video.html Mercedes W126 3.8 5 4.2 5.6L in-depth tutorial of root cause of idle increase with temperature rise czcams.com/video/eBXHjuKja0A/video.html Mercedes W126 All 8cyl - idle speed issues - often overlooked: Connector, Idler Arm 117-094-03-12 czcams.com/video/sJmouE9_ahA/video.html Mercedes - A closer look at the infamous idle speed control / air valve ISCV and it’s internal parts czcams.com/video/Ybki3B1vefs/video.html These videos will further explain the issues and how to adjust those valves. Just in case you haven’t seen those already.

TDC Signal muss bei Fahrt beobachtet werden bis Fehler auftritt. Bei Ausfall ist ZDL zuüberprüfen. Zuerst die Paste auf Rückseite erneuern (trocknet mit Zeit aus) um korrekte Kühlung zu garantieren. Dann nochmals Test fahrt durchführen. Falls Fehler immer noch auftritt, ZDL erneuern.

ZDL = EZL

Bei welcher Außentemperatur ergibt sich dieses Problem? Vermutlich defektes Kraftstoff Pumpen Relais. Das Relais hat auch die Funktion der Drehzahl Begrenzung, die schaltet K Pumpen dann ab. Lässt sich der Wagen bei hoher Außentemperatur und warm gelaufenen Motor gut starten? Falls nicht, Kraftstoff Speicher bei Pumpen mal überprüfen ( MB Nummer 0004760921 ).

Das Motorsteuergerät hat keine Funktion beim starten. Es gibt aber die Kühlwasser Temperatur and das KPR durch. Das Zündgerät konvertiert das Signal vom Kurbelwellensor in eine Frequenzabhängige Rechteckspannung welches vom ZDL an alle verteilt wird, inklusive Klima Steuergerät, KPR, ECU, Drehzahlmesser. Diese Signal heißt TDC. Wenn das KPR das TDC Signal verliert, schaltet es sofort die Pumpen ab. Wenn das KPR überbrückt wird und die Pumpen laufen sollte man an einer Zündkerze auf Zündung beim starten prüfen. Keine Zündfunke heißt dann zuerst Zündspule überprüfen (Widerstandsmessung) dann das ZDL Wenn das alles in Ordnung ist liegt der Fehler im Benzin Kreislauf. Zuerst Kraftstoff Speicher überprüfen und falls nötig erneuern. Dann Kraftstoff Druck an Ober und Unterkammer am Mengenverteiler überprüfen. Falls nötig, Druck Regler erneuern oder bei zu hohem Druck die rückleitung auf Verstopfung überprüfen