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I'm from south ga. I been sharpening for 25 more years I sharpen all name brand blade what you said in your vedo is correct. But I cN speak for these others guys just my self, I was raised in a saw.mill world ..I know about wood and what the blade suppose to do and how. All I'm saying is you haven't tried my work yet, yes I've got ahold of some crazy bands these so call bandsaw sharpeners do

Have you thought about a couple of loop handles like the industrial remotes use?

First time watching Charley +Sarah, felt I knew you guys for years. Was hoping I'd walk out my door and had you guys living next door lol.

Do you have to remove the bottom tile from the shower wall? Is this absolutely necessary?

Looking like junk for firewood. You can't get anything good from agly wood

Why did u sale out no businesses

Loaded on sideways yrs ago, just let it sit few days, has worked fine 34 yrs or drain it. I tried pulling it up a ramp, after 2 times with hurt feelings i sats and thoughts how i got it myself yrs ago... on its side in my truck. Single stage if it matters

I don't cut logs to lumber for other people, only my logs for myself 😊

Est-ce que l’on peut l’avoir en français

I like the country music better for this content. keep up the good work.

Have you tried cutting maybe 1/2 to 1 inch on the return? (The wrong Way) and let it pull itself, while you are controlling the feed. Works for me and you save some work.

What the plan with just taking the top of each trunk? are you doing the rest on a bandsaw?

Good unbaised description. I have not seen them in real life, but they seems a little flimsy. The idea of a swingmill are good for small dimensions building timber but some homebuild looks nicer. I have an old homebuild but would like to put a bandsaw on the same so you get the best of both systems.

How do you know when you can no longer sharpen a bandsaw blade? how many millimeters (or %) can I lose to sharpening until the blade is too narrow?

KNOWLEDGE OVERALL EXPLANATIONS A TO Z YOU ARE MaHOMES IN THIS GAME BEST I SEEN SO FAR TAKE CARE THANK UU CHUCKYY

Beautiful family! I hope someday I can find joy like this!

I just received, or I should say picked up my LT 50 hydraulic with the Accu-Set ll system. I played with it today and that was the most difficult piece. I just watched your tutorial and it is by far the best I’ve seen so far. Thank you!!!!

You can also use Eco prim grip and then waterproof membrane on top before thinset.

The Lucas mill has scales that take into account the kerf of the blade on both the end frames and the powerhead. Sounds like you have a lot to learn about this mill.

Perfect explanation. Im sending this video to my customer. Thank you. Id definitely rather rip it out and start over.

i never heard of Lucas Mills. Just the regular names: Wood Mizer, Norwood, Frontier, Woodland Mills, and Cook.

When you say they bought 4x4 where they mixed tree or the same trees?

You gonna cut the loaf on the saw mill? 😂

When a man looks at his bare wrist and tells you it's about 8:20 you can 1) don't trust anything else that man says. or 2) assume he has a much cooler wristwatch than you. Normally I'd take option 1, but this time I'm going with door #2. How's the battery life on that Roleks?

I had a Peterson mill WPF 10. I had nothing but problems with the mill got a woodland mills 30” cut that was so much better. Now I have a LT40 hyd which is so much better than both.

The Lucas is defiantly more like a step up from an Alaskan mill I've seen guys mount a chain saw bar on there and do whatever size they want but its more of a dimensional saw. Making 2x4's and all that. I almost bought a used one for 5k.

First off, comparing a Lucas mill to fully hydraulic bandsaw mill is an apples to oranges comparison. 1) My Lucas mill is very accurate on it's cutting dimensions. It has scales on both vertical posts and a scale on the carriage. If I want 2", I get exactly 2" just like reading a tape measure. I'm really lost how your mill could not have scales. 2) Yes, the mill is going to move when the rails are almost 5 feet of the ground and you push it with your shoulder without the center post installed. I've never had a cut affected by the type of movement that you show. When the blade is in the cut, it is nearly impossible for it to be pushed off unless you purposely run into the rails like a linebacker. 3) If your cuts are not lining up and you have to make the same cut twice, you have a definite problem with your blade and/or basic alignment of the carriage. Your blade is too dull or your tension is off on the blade. Try a new blade or send it to a saw doctor to be checked out. 4) I don't see the wear surfaces as a problem more than any other machine. The carriage rollers are nylon and won't eat into the frame. They are easily replaceable. The carriage lock is made from pvc and costs $1.00 to replace. The posts are metal on metal but you are winding them up or down by hand at extremely slow speed and only once every few minutes. That would take 15-20 years of use to cause any noticeable problems. A light coating of grease or silicone spray on the posts once a month is all you need.

There is a sidewinder that you could add. When I bought my used Lucas the mill was in a lean-to with the rail supports fastened to the back wall to reduce the movement of a shoulder bump

What year was your mill manufactured? I suspect many of the issues you pointed out have been fixed on new models. I know most swing blade sawmills have repetitive sizing guides to ensure consistent board dimensions. As you know there are other manufactures of swing blade sawmills (Peterson being the most notable), I would contact them and see if there is anyone in you area has an ATS or the WPF model that you can look at. There you'll see what you're missing quality wise compared to the Lucas.

What will you do with your pine slabs? Even kiln dried, planed and sanded. We can hardly give them away in my neck of the woods. Do You actually have a market for this stuff?

Sharpening the chain on the mill works but it is really awkward to do since the bar is horizontal. After the 1st time with a file, I bought an Oregon electric sharpener and haven't looked back. I can swap out a chain in 3-4 minutes, 2 minutes if I have help. It is much faster and easier to swap the chain instead of hand filing on the bar. I do portable milling and this way my customers aren't paying me to sharpen chains while I'm on site. The electric sharpener also allows me to keep the left and right cutters equal otherwise the chain will want to wander off a little.

Why not sand first, then use the tile primer?

Get yourself a Harbor Freight 4-lb cross peen hammer.. Knock that crap off with one swing. And save dem nuts...

Needle-nosed vice grips will help when pulling nails.

At 6 weeks and their refusal to use the new system, you should have cancelled the order and called Woodmizer or some other company..

😪 'PromoSM'

Are you happy with your Lucas Mill

Feed dogs dude😊

I am an Australian builder carpenter and woodworker I am 80 years old to Lucas mill works great on Australian hardwood how treasure for a five times heavier than your Douglas fir and they are fantastic in Australia where you can cut housing material which is two by sixes 2 by fours and two by threes

Good

I don't want to come across as a hater, because I'm not, but as someone that has ran a LT40 hard for the the last eight years, I find all if these new youtube videos of sawmill how tos and "tricks" and "tips" for running a mill from people who are obviously new to the game, a little old. This is not just directed at you. This is for all the people who recently went and bought a sawmill and now think they are sawyers, who make youtube videos. Good for you for making a video, but look, you are running that mill with a big diesel engine, around half the speed you should be running it. Your setup is inefficient and slow! You are walking probably twice as much as you need to and the site organization is a mess. And what is all the nonsense about different blade lubes? Look, I run just straight water, maybe some dawn. Here is a pro tip for you. If it's cold enough for the water to freeze then it's probably cold enough to saw without lube. Thant's right, once the logs are froze you don't need to run lube in the winter. Work on your site organization and flow, it will be more efficient and safer. Good luck.

1😊обез ьяну из. Себя корчит

It won’t be straight when it dries 😂😂

Can you tell me who sings the four leaf clover song?

TBH, this mill produces only one board with 2 cuts. It doesn't look any faster than a bandsaw, which with the same 2 cuts, can produce multiple boards. 😮

Without her or anyone who makes these product’s, you wouldn’t be sitting in your home without it falling apart! Cold hands or not, she’s what we call…an essential worker!!!👍

I absolutely love the smell of freshly cut wood.

Girl, you're from the South. I live in Canada. You don't know the meaning of the world cold. LOL

It won't be straight next month

No wonder they are so warped when they get to the store, cutting them when they still bleeding!