Video

I hate this thermostat. Change the settings lol

www.filtersfast.com/ProdImages/honeywellfc40r1029u.pdf

Will this stop condensation around my sheet rock?

I just bought a Dainese Jacket today and had this issue with the right plate. Annoyingly i've managed to force the inserts out and will need to replace them to fix it fully

What is the most common cause of no power unit has no power light do not come on, any suggestion.?

I have a question. I have an ac vent that has water damage around it. I think due to the bathroom upstairs. So I want to cut out the piece that’s damaged and replace it but I cannot find a video that shows how to find the duct and cut the hole in the right location. Do you have a video of sorts? Or any chance you would upload one?

I have the same unit but nø power at all

My 2012 Hypermotard thanks you! Thanks for the video.

What if it resorts back to the original setpoint after changing the setpoint?

where do you get "old" 3-screws plates?

my job site didn’t care I was working second shift so this was a lifesaver that night!! Thanks homie

I've always used a large pair of channel locks and old pads or a piece of steel to evenly distribute the force. I also will use a c-clamp.

I'd LOVE a filter like this, especially since my system only uses 20x20x1" filters. Do you have a link or some sort of search criteria terms to find this kind of filter?

Hi - Question! Power kept going out one day... my LG portable still blows cold air, but has a burning smell and when it's off will suddenly make noises like maybe the compressor/fan(?) Kicks on for a minute. Any input is much appreciated!

Thank you! My portable LG doesn’t blow cold. the copper tubes don’t get cold , only one short one does. The compressor feels warm. I cleaned it all up inside.

Someone else said it was 1.25mm, but .05mm is not going to be deal breaker! Thanks! Very thorough explanation.

Such a piece of $hit of engineering and programming. How about putting BASIC buttons like AC/Heater switch. Then up/down you can toggle the temp. Then 7 buttons for each day of the week to press and program, with the LCD screen displaying Program

Can you share the manufacturer comb kit?

Thanks! This is super helpful.

Sounds like an easy job for a water pik....will try

Thank you so much. Had the same problem with my 2013 Hyper. Fixed it in a couple minutes! Greeting from Hamburg :)

Stripped one of the the hex screw heads, how doni get out without causing damage

$400-500 for a countertop microwave Yikes

I don’t beIive the manufacturer recommends this to be installed in a Dow flow configuration, double check

I have the same problem with my 2009 Silverado

Yes im having the same issue with my 2009 Silverado. I was doing the same thing. Trying to find it. I would put my Hand on the throttle body and I did feel a ticking noises but didn’t think nothing of it. Thank you so much this helped me so much to at least find the location of that ticking noises. I have my check engine flashing every time I put it on drive.

What happened to the unit?

Mine says EH for cool and when I try to make it warmer it won’t let me but it will go down. And when I try to make it warmer I can’t. 😅

I have a goodman where it is making the whistling noise as the inducer is slowing down after it has met the heat call, any ideas?

The noise sounds like microphone feedback, or Rudolph's nose at Christmas Eve. Just finished doing the same thing to a ULN Trane furnace with a 2-stage 36J54-204 gas valve in Orange Co, CA while staying at a friend's house. The noise awakened me from my sleep. I reduced the high gas pressure 0.2 inches to eliminate the harmonic. Lowering the pressure essentially leans the combustion mixture. So it made me think the actual problem (at design NG pressure) is a restricted induced air path (intake or discharge) due to poor installation practices. But the installation instructions were not left with the unit for me to make a determination. If the adjustment screw was turning from vibration, you will see it with your manometer pressure reading the next time you get called out. But the leaklock was a good idea if you could see inside the adjustment cavity clearly. I am so glad I don't have one of these units.

Shouldn't you open the bleeder valve to release the pressure ?

this just saved me! ty ty

I havent seen these make noises but i run into them tripping the flame rollout switch.

Best to just remove the device Calif. requires. Then give them the middle finger. Escape California while you still can.

Thank you for your video!

use a high cap gas flex or hard pipe

It looks like I have the same model shown here, but when heat is on the room temperature is always about 2 degrees below what I set it to heat to. Any idea what might cause this if it's an issue?

A quick, simple down and dirty video. I wish more people made these videos your way. Nice job!

Thanks for your video it is really helpful, just a question i have this thermostat but why you think my furnance heater keeps turning on everyday around midnight even when thermostat is off? Thanks!

I CAN TURN THE HEAT OFF IN MY OFFICE NOW THANK YOU

Perfect! I was just wondering where the switch is so I can start the bike in 1st to hopefully free up the clutch w/o taking the side cover off. Already built a paddock, so I'll ground that wire pop it in 1st & try it. Btw, you said that you don't post videos for money, but there is an ad at the start... Someone is monetizing your video

Your videos are so informative. Thanks for posting all these helpful videos.

I also have an LG and just recently started to squel really loud when the compressor kicks in but it blows out cold air do you think this could be repaired and what could It possibly be ?

I replaced the throttle body and that fixed it. Good news, I got lucky by taking it to AutoZone because at some point, before I bought the vehicle 140k miles ago, the previous owner must have replaced it already from AutoZone and so all I had to do was an exchange. The throttle body was free from AutoZone... Lifetime warranty!

0:50 A ticking / with RPM dropout is exactly similar to a High Voltage (spark-lead) cable that has an insulation resistance failure, allowing leakage current to "jump" across an air-gap (similar to a spark plug gap) to earthed metal, somewhere between the COIL HIV terminal and any of the spark plug tops. As soon as the cable LEAKS that Hi-V surge to earth, it fails to deliver a spark across it's spark plug which instantly drops out THAT cylinder, resulting in a sudden RPM drop, which "returns" to static RPM as the rest of the spark plugs fire successfully. NORMALLY if it's a regular drop, it's in a single lead, but if it's irregular it's most likely in the main lead from the coil, before it gets distributed. Watching every hi-v cable (in a darker setting, such as a shed without lights) is about the only way you will find it Tapping something SOLID near the front of the engine block, won't necessarily mean it's THAT item, but more likely a near-field effect, of vibrating whatever is "shorting" the hi-voltage cabling - to move the cable even a mm away from the metal it's earthing across too, will cause the "arc" to exceed the jump-zone hereby stopping that clicking/snap/crackle sound. It's the same as a miniature thunder clap (being the sound of the electric current jumping an air gap). Check all grounding bolts for tightness arond that area too, as it may simply be an electric arc across metal joints, but I'd suspect a hi-voltage cable "insulation" leakage, as your main culprit. ;-) After all, the COIL itself should be FIRMLY bolted the the engine block (or metal chassis), and each spark plug is automatically grounded, if TIGHTENED into it's hole in the top of the cylinder, thus ONLY something else, that is making a metal-to-metal electrical pathway, will "spark" like thunder, meaning you are losing spark current somewhere. CHECK (and or replace) each spark-lead, (thoroughly) to ensure they aren't the culprit, as even a PIN-HOLE in the hi-tension insulation around each lead's core, will be enough to allow electrons through a PINHOLE to ground the Hi-V killing whichever spark-plus that was supposed to get all available current, to "fire" that cylinder. Instantly losing power on ONE cylinder, drops the RPM as if a stutter occurred. You don't hear the stutter juct the thunder-clap of (insulation failure) electric arc. The reason it's NOT regular, simply means the cable isn't hard against a metal ground, just that sometimes it wiggles close enough to arc. Industrial Electrician with a LOT of experience fault-finding insulation resistance faults, such as with small B&S motors and the like, that fail occasionally to spark, with even the tiniest of pin-hole insulation failures. Sometimes it's worse than that - in that the internal wire has "broken" and parted from itself, meaning that inside the cable, the electricity is FORCED to jump across a gap in the electric path, meanig you will "hear" but not see, the actual spark-jump gap, as even a halfway decent gap in the circuit, will destroy the set gap value, which is supposed to be where the spark gap is insoide the cylinder, and NOT somewhere along the lead or across even a physical joint, such as pitted electrodes on the distributor cap - meaning too great a gap there, inside the distributor's hi-V terminal posts.!!!! If however it is as you suspect, a problem at the Throttle BODY (being between grounded metal parts, then you have a bigger problem of a hi-V leakage from non-grounded coils which have both the Hi & Lo-voltages going across the metalwork there (at your throttle body metalwork), instead of INSIDE the coil body itself, meaning a replacement coil or coils is the remedy you need to attend too. Last resort (or maybe the first place to look, ensure the earth strap from the battery is making solid /tight connection to the motor, othersie all spark currents, will be travelling BACK to the chassis, via any and all throttle and chock & other small wires, not meant to carry Hi-V, which also means the throttle cable itself is acting as if a metal electrical conduit ...? BAD GROUND at the coil/s (and/or between the engine and the chassis) makes for interesting areas the "fault" manifests itself across, such as throttle cable's "metal-wires"

Fascinating. Thank you for sharing valuable information.

Carbon soot, was it from brazing without nitrogen? I would have put a filter dryer before the TXV? Recovery, did you capture the refrigerant in the condenser?

How many miles do you have on it? This could be a couple of things going on here. 1: By the sound of it, you could have sticky PCV, cheap and easy fix if thats the case. Crankcase pressure will build up and the computer detects a high load which increases RPM, and then it vents out all at once when it ticks open. 2: One of the coils / Injectors could be shorting out with the block causing a misfire, however you would get an check engine light if thats the case but possibly not.

Thanks