Video

Sounds like they may have just sent the wrong box. The outdoor version. I would contact them.

@@GavinStoneDIY I did and they gave me an RMA and I sent it back. The new one is really different for the indoor battery. It has thumb screws. Not sure why they decided to change it. SS has it under this SKU 1511099. Have a great day and thanks for the videos!

At full load they can get pretty loud. But it has to be beyond that to wattage threshold to make any noise at all. So it depends on the load really.

Still very happy with it. Still has the original 2 small leaks I never bothered to repair. Still making me lots of power!

Without resistor, there is always a chance of damage to the battery or inverter. Since most people don’t turn the power off to the devices multiple times it’s not usually an issue.

It may. But there is a rubber membrane product that has been designed specifically for this now. So that’s probably what I would recommend.

It’s fine to leave it on. This is just like having a separate charge controller. You can have multiple chargers on the same battery bank without problem.

It charges at 100 amps. So you could add as many 48v batteries as you wanted. The more batteries you add the more the amperage spreads out between them. So if you charging at 100 amps and had 5 batteries, each battery would get around 20 amps of charge.

DC power can be a bit confusing at first if you’re used to the concept of AC. I agree though, the simpler the better for people. This isn’t actually overly complicated on the surface. And Most people could do a solar install if they research for a couple months. But just like any other subject, you can do a deep dive and discover a lot of much more complicated and interesting facets.

If you want to DIY, I'd look at an isolated, island system designed by Electrodacus for offgrid use. It is the solar charge controller and battery managment all in one. Inexpensive and avoids much of the silliness of most modern retail options. His pdf manuals will show you one way, and later you can marvel at how odd other systems are designed and how costly they are.

It’s just the way the inverter is designed for efficiency.

Does the BMS still function correctly?

Yeah the hail in our area hasn’t really ever gotten to a size where it could damage the panels. But then again it could happen anywhere. I wouldn’t use a design like this in a structure where everything had to be perfect. But for a storage shed like mine it’s pretty practical.

The online manual has a wiring schematic that explains how to wire it for 120v.

When it comes to a generator, I usually recommend using a chargeveter. Eliminates any potential power distortion issues. czcams.com/video/X2zhpP5Vl7Q/video.htmlsi=NS9YlrzsIIEpvDsQ

Yes both are connected to the busbar in the cabinet

Yeah I think it’s amazing how well it performs.

I was using communication with both. You might be talking about the lifepower4 batteries. And yes, those only have one RS485 communication option. The power pro batteries and LL batteries can communicate with both at the same time. Also the older chargeveter model didn’t have a generator start relay. So even if you’re using voltage it you still have that extra option. Honestly I don’t mind using voltage. It still starts and stops at the upper and lower ranges. But with SoC you can definitely get things more fine tuned,

​@@GavinStoneDIY Thanks for the clarification! Yes, you are correct, I am using the Lifepower 4 batteries. I don't know why they did not design it to use one of the additional communication ports on the 6000XP to pick up the SOC? Many of us have complained so hopefully they will provide a fix? I have 3 5000w continuous Inverter Generators that don't have elec start. For those of us that purchased 2 or more 6000XP's we cannot use the generator charging feature because we would have to purchase a Huge Generator and on top of that most large generators are not inverter and are not stable enough to keep below 3% THD. We were forced to purchase The New ChargeVerter increasing our budget and we cannot even use the new features. They discontinued the older model. They should have included a true charger like a ChargeVerter inside each 6000XP, 12K, 18K etc. Then you can use normal sized generators, one on each All-In-One and run just one or two etc as needed without any concern about damaging the inverter. JM2C

​@@GavinStoneDIY Also, turning on the breaker and powering up the ChargeVerter causes the 6000XP's to shut down and reset shutting down all your loads for a short time and air conditioners must time out to release pressure etc. This is a real problem for Off Grid people and ones running critical items without battery backup etc. One YT Creator said EG4 told him that that is normal. Normal for poorly designed products LOL. Probably capacitors charging in the Chargeverter causing a downward spike on voltage. I don't want to leave my ChargVerters ON ALL THE TIME! I only want to power them up when I need them which is usually on very hot days when clouds and storms arrive and every air conditioner is running at full.

@@GavinStoneDIY The 6000XP has one battery communication RS485. One of my 6000XP's has that used for the batteries and the other 6000XP picks up SOC info from the first 6000XP. So what would happen if I plugged the ChargVerter into the unused battery RS485 on the second 6000XP? I will not try anything like that without info from EG4, just wondering. There are 2 unpopulated RS485's on each 6000XP also? I have to use Voltage to shut off the ChargeVerters, but would be better if I can get the SOC to work.

@@sciglassblower I would probably power up the capacitors with the generator before flipping the breaker on. I haven’t had the issues you’re describing so I may try to replicate it. My XP hasn’t shut down when I turn on the chargeveter. The coms port on the other XP wouldn’t work I don’t think. The SOC is really the best for people have a generator with auto start. You can choose a certain percentage to start. But even then voltage works fine. You can pretty accurately pinout 20% with voltage once you’ve had your batteries running for a bit. I ran my entire system based off voltage for almost 2 years. Given the option it’s nice to have SOC. But it’s not a deal breaker. This chargeveter is more expensive. But often times newer versions of equipment are. This stays cooler, it’s quieter, and it’s easier to change settings. Also has better components. So it’s not all about the communication and auto start. You still can’t get anything brand name with this much charging amperage for near this price.

The manual states 3. So they won’t recommend more. But if it’s a single 18kpv then it can’t draw or push more than 250 amps. So it wouldn’t be an issue if you connected 5.

Added number 4 and 5 to my single 18kpv today and worked perfect with no external busbar. Communication automatically registered on the 18kpv of all 5 batteries after about 5 minutes :) I love eg4 products and teslas

At the time I believe the lumber and metal was around $2,800. I can’t recall what the panels cost exactly, but they’ve dropped dramatically in price since I bought them a few years ago.

@@GavinStoneDIY thanks, hoping one day I can do this myself!

I came 12” off the building. And I designed the slab for 3 batteries so it would be a bit long for you. But for two batteries just over 5’ long would work.

Sure. I might try to make a short about it. It’s fairly straightforward.

Yeah on the 6000xp I believe the top two fans are for the main components and the bottom is to cool the MPPT’s.

@@GavinStoneDIY Thanks. I haven't found an explanation in its manual. We ❤️ PV! 😁

Yeah I really like the midnight SPD’s also. I think having the fuses was a good idea. As cheap as they are to replace it just makes sense.

On the chargeveter? There is a labeled Rs232 port. And each generator has a different ATS location. So yours might be different.

@GavinStoneDIY thank you for the reply. My predator generator inverter doesn't have ats.. Where do I connect the rs233?

A 120v generator can’t be hooked directly to the XP. However a chargeveter can accomplish the same thing. And that’s usually what I recommend. You can feed the chargeverter with a 120v output and charge the batteries up. I go through a lot of those details in this video. czcams.com/video/X2zhpP5Vl7Q/video.htmlsi=pYWlRdLzlNmUVMW0

I know right? They are pricey. But $400 is a lot cheaper than a new system. At least that’s what I figured when I got them. I did a video on the install. If you use one of those links I believe it’ll give you a discount.

You’re right about that!

Sure I’ll see if I can throw that in the next one. Honestly though I usually recommend the chargeveter. It really depends on what generator you have, but the chargeveter can eliminate some potential issues. If you haven’t watched my video on that it might be helpful.

@@GavinStoneDIY a Honda EU7000ISNAN generator, no chargeverter should be required with this Honda inverter

I have a rack of 6 100 ah lifepowr4 batteries. 2 EG4 outdoor power pro batteries, and 2 DIY batteries. So a little over 1700 ah of 48v batteries

@@GavinStoneDIY hey, thanks brother, I greatly appreciate you responding

Yeah you should be good to go. They stay balanced. I have the pro battery set to the master and my LL’s behind it.

As far as communication? I believe they can communicate with those yes.

Actually I meant battery hookup, would I have to disconnect anything or just run the battery wires into the grid connection on the EG4 18.

Thanks for the feedback. Yeah I love testing these units. Lots to learn

Yes. Also dry contacts to engage on auto start for a generator.

The midnight solar surge protectors from Signature Solar. They are rated by voltage, so they have a high and lower voltage model. They will shunt the current to ground and save your system. With a direct lightning strike all bets are off. But the goal is to mitigate as much of the potential issues as possible. I also have the EMP shields. They are just a bit pricier. I’ll link to the model I think you need. But CZcams is funny with links on shorts, I don’t think it’ll work. signaturesolar.com/midnite-solar-lightning-and-surge-arrestor-600dc-mnspd-600/?ref=mpmddlkx6M9tPo

@@GavinStoneDIY I will look into that, thanks

I’ll add a link below. Watts247 has them, definitely my favorite combiner boxes. watts247.com/product/solar-panel-combiner-box-4-circuits-to-2/?wpam_id=122

I used the cables that came with the power pro. They send 2 pairs so I had an extra set.

I wanted the large overhang. The further the water is from the structure the longer it will last. Plus the only way to avoid the steel would have been to have the top of the array nearly flush with the back of the building. I would have had water running down the wall by the door every time it rained. I could have designed the lumber to overhang and catch the panels. But then I would have had to wrap the wood in metal soffit. So for what I needed this was the easiest and most cost effective way.

@@GavinStoneDIY , sounds logical. 👍 I’m surprised you don’t have same overhang at front.

@@tjam4229 I left the overhand much shorter at the front in case I wanted to use a gutter to capture the water. And I still may at some point. But so far it’s working really good like this.

You’d have to check with your local building inspectors. This is similar to a UPS you could buy to back up your appliances. Except it in this case you would be wiring a new sub panel.

It could be the lumber you used. It’s hard to say really. Mine have not bent. Then again mine are also bifacial panels. And the frames are pretty strong.

@@GavinStoneDIY Hi bud, live in South Africa near the sea. I used galvanized steel...Suppose, lumber would have been the best. Don't expand.

@@mariusverwey2125 ahh I see. That could be the issue. Also galvanized metal can have some negative reactions to the aluminum frames on the solar panels from what I’ve read.

Thanks for watching

You can always email me also if you’ve got questions. You have the voltage parameters set correctly on the 12k? What does the overkill say on the cell balance? Maybe send me some photos. It’s unlikely the BMS or cells are bad. Probably just a balance issue. You could have one cell that’s gotten out of balance and it’s dictating what happens to all the packs.

That’s a perfect dump load! That or an EV would be an awesome use for the smart port.

​@@GavinStoneDIYwhat's the out capacity on the gen input when used as a smart load out?

Thanks! From what I can tell the chargeverter uses Pylontech protocol. I tried a few others and the SOC went all wonky. But it was dead on accurate with Pylontech.

@@GavinStoneDIY Nice!

Yeah I know exactly how you feel. If you take your time you can wire everything up. The manual describes a lot of it. And there are lots of videos on CZcams explaining how to do it. As far as expansion, it’s fairly easy to grow with this type of setup. There will always be new gear every year though as the industry grows. So at a certain point you have to get into the game. I struggled with the same thing.