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Hondatechhowto
Registrace 28. 04. 2009
Honda-Tech: How to Remove tough gaskets
This video was uploaded by GR8racingfool i take no credit for it at all
i just reposted the video incase he ever deletes it we'll still have it, and to help out H-T.
this is to show others how I remove gaskets from delicate metal surfaces.
3M Roloc use with die grinder or drill.
i just reposted the video incase he ever deletes it we'll still have it, and to help out H-T.
this is to show others how I remove gaskets from delicate metal surfaces.
3M Roloc use with die grinder or drill.
zhlédnutí: 151 039
These roloc discs arent the same as the old scoring pad type, yes they do contain aluminum oxide but its mixed in with a ceramic abrasive, so its not as bad as the old stuff, always use the white disc for aluminum heads/block, using light pressure and around 60 psi of air if using an air die grinder, or medium speed, dont stay in one spot and keep it moving.
We're do you buy these wheels at
14 years later and I'm still using this method
You still around and still doing tech stuff?
Take my money!! So sick of razor blades
This guy obviously has nothing to do with Honda-Tech, never do this it will distort the surface! Razor blades used gently work fine, if difficult use paint stripper first! These disks are however great on steel and cast iron.
I'll bet that gasket surface is no longer flat. $500 worth.
Don't listen to Dave...I've been working pon bikes for 50+ years, and this is one of the best tips I've ever encountered. I bought a yellow on based on this video, and it worked amazingly well, stripping the 40 year old gasket off the cylinder jug from the KZ440 I'm rebuilding at the moment. Cleaned it right off, without ANY damage to the aluminum whatsoever. Went on to do the side case gasket surfaces as well - same result
Thanks this is why I’m here my kz 650 base gasket is being troublesome
Thank you.
White is 120 Grit, Yellow is 80 and Green is 50. I always use white.
Like using a whiz wheel is really safer than a razor blade.
GM has a technical service bulletin that explains why that specific engine was having bearing damage after the intake manifold gaskets were replaced becouse of the use of those disks leave abrasive particals in the engines oil and are not to be used in gasket surface cleaning on any engine
i just bought some permatex crap. i tried it a year ago and it didn't do squat to the gasket, natha, nil. when it says "safe to use around children and pets....it's not going to do anything but fund permatexes struggle to stay alive. )
forget all these questionable china made abrasives, i just get out the cutting torch, don't set the gas over 15psi, simmer that back to around 5lbs. since i'm only cutting the gasket I wanna set the oxygen around 8lbs, first i find an old head lying around with some stuck on gasket material to practice with, (important note/disclaimer: I find that old head made out of aluminum, or whatever it is I'm going to be working with,) the trick is to angle the slightly oxidized cone horizontally, cut only from the inside out, and aim for the thickness of the gasket. works like magic. but do not proceed to the good head until I'm able to skim the gasket material off, without leaving any residue *(that's one reason to adjust the flame oxidized, carbonized will not be as accurate.) or any deep overcuts. suggestions i've been told are to buy a couple of extra 80cf bottles of oxygen and find more practice heads to practice with. work out-doors. finish with a sharp course grade aluminum file (Nicholson sells them for about 150.00.) be careful not to put any pressure on the file and get it perfectly flat, or you'll render the head unusable. if it's already scratched in places then have it home machined with an oil stone in places where the gasket has been removed, for a base starting spot to then touch up with the file. it's the way i've always do it, and i've never had a drip of oil that leaked. although the most perfect job of prep usually wont help because all the vintage style hondas will lead at the head, it's one way the chain gets oiled and the bike looks new, all shiny. i wish myself good luck, p.s. if it leaks much upon assemble, i usually shorten the studs by cutting them and re-welding them back, if attempts are made to remove the stud, the results can and will take out some threads in the cases. that will cause extra work.
if anybody is thinking of doing this make sure to use the white one on aluminum
Does the White prevent any issue w/the Al? Thanks.
nice hate paper gaskets on Honda's lol
It may remove some alloy. Alloy is very soft and you would not like having to buy a new part. He is right razors and alloy do not mix. I use plastic scrapers and brake cleaner.
don't jack your shit up!
Sounded like it was going to be a great video, and he sounded knowledgeable, however, the trash talk, at the very beginning is offensive and I turned it off immediately after. To bad.
Thank you!!!
Exactly what the experts say NOT to do. Lol - shoots tiny particles & pieces everywhere inside your part. Unless you have a big cleaner to dunk it in you'll likely never get them all out and they will wreck havoc on seals and bearing when they get into the motor.
Shouldn't be using gasket replacement (use actual gasket) if expert level is what you're looking for.
I use a small propane torch.Heat up the gasket it will literally push itself off the aluminum and you can scrap it off easily.Simple just burn the gasket and it will scrap right off
+GrindTimeAuto Thanks, I have been in a nightmare with this and I tried your method and it's paying dividends already, I like the one in the Video too!
Glad I Worked For You!
Dam, wish I thought of using heat to get them off! nicely done !!
wait if I go buy a propane torch can I use that? I thought using hot equipment would damage the aluminum like take it's shape away my transmission gasket isn't coming off it's so hard I need help it's just melted on their
It doesn't work for me.
Foul language detracts from presentation. Not necessary.
I wouldn't put that thing near my harley head. I use white spirit and a blunted razor blade with rounded edges. blunt the blade with wet and dry. use a wedge shaped wood if that will do it instead of the razor.
+John Bailey hahaha!
You will ruin the flatness. Not a good way of removing gasket. That strap will tangle up with your grinder some day. Please be aware of the danger.
You can see this is removing aluminum and messing up the surface of the part. NEVER use abrasives of any kind on aluminum. If the guy in this video had any integrity, he would remove this from youtube before another person sees it.
integrity? he's collected over 110,000 views with 254 likes!! i've added to the proper ways to do an excellent job at cleaning delicate and non replaceable parts, above. just to help out with this abrasive add.
Worst way of removing old gasket material from aluminum parts. You'll screw yourselves by creating uneven spots. Use chemical removers and a plastic scraper. Don't be fools.
+Les Zapata I like that!
I am dealing with a gasket right now hard to remove how do you get it off with what chemical
GM Bulletin #00-06-01-012D "GM’s position against the use of surface conditioning discs has been in place for more than 10 years." (Randy McCrite) Perhaps, it's best to put a disclaimer on the video. Don't use where grit/debris can possibly enter the engine/machine oil or bearing/sealing surfaces. Additionally, these disc may remove small amounts of aluminum that could effect a gasket seal. Or perhaps I humbly suggest, it's best to remove the video all together in the interest of preventing the spread of potentionally harmful information.
The video still here 😅
Very bad idea. These aren't just plastic they have grit built in like scotchbrite pads. All you're doing is ruining the mating surfaces. It takes aluminum with it, that's why it looks too clean after like new metal. No longer perfectly flat... Doesn't matter how slow or careful you are.
lol internet know it all strikes again!
KoG GoK no I don't claim to know it all, I did my research then I learned that. You could do your research also. When researching you might look into the problem Subaru had with these, which resulted in premature failures of both gaskets and engine bearings. Shops use these because they are fast and easy, doesn't mean its the right thing to do...
@@jimbob3030 umm your thinking of scotch brite disc pads come in different colors those leave abrasive dust behind for bearings what he's using is rubber plastic hair discs not abrasive
I've used those abrasive ones with intrepid 2.7L everything internal gave me 170k miles no failures car has 270k as long as you do two oil changes and tons cans carb cleaner with oil pan off everything will drip with gravity
@@modbox9560 He is talking about using a 3m bristle pad. I haven't tried one before, If I'm wrong great let me know, but they are the maker of scotch bright and this appears to be a different shape sharing similar abrasives. If I am wrong point me to somewhere that shows this isn't the same old same old abrasive in a new shape. If this wasn't as abrasive as a scotch brite, it couldn't eat through that gasket as fast as it did in the video.
whats the difference betweeen these bristle discs and conditiong discs? different grit rating? i need for aluminum parts
Good tip...thanks
What other gotdamn way is possible!? This is about the best it's going to get as long as u don't lean into it with body weight
The discs use an aluminum oxide abrasive, which is as hard as the oxidized coating that aluminum naturally develops. That means as long as you don't smash on it, it should remove anything softer than the outer layer of the part, but will remove the outer layer of oxide on the part itself if you keep going with it.
I went and got a 3m yellow 2 inch wheel from Napa for 10 dollars and that shit scratched my aluminum mani
Get the white one. Only 120 grit instead of 80 grit that the yellow ones are.
I wouldn't even use 400 grit on a part like this, let alone 120. Not without completely refinishing the surface anyway. I know this is old, but I don't want anyone looking at this later and thinking its ok to use these products.
the kit at Harbor Freight no longer has that cool plastic disk. ugh!!
ehhh im doing this with a electric drill.....not so good
possible to use this with a drill?
spray to use yes,try petrol.
Do not do this! Those disks were made to remove rust, and they work very well. If you use them on an aluminum surface they will ruin it!!!
In all seriousness I picked one up today and going to try removing some stuck on paper gasket. I tried some other gasket removing solution from Autozone.......Junk! Hope this does the trick! I actually bought the white bristle disc instead, less abrasive than the yellow disc.
can I use that on my touch hole?
Is there any spray to use
Great video but how do I remove gasket from a tight space on engine like the water pump housing, 2000 Pontiac bonneville
Opps I used a flat heaf screw driver lol
Are the nipples plastic or rubber?
GM found out,there were dealerships replacing engines due to rolac disc pads used and causing premature engine failure.I do intake gaskets on GM 3100s and 3400s,that is when not to use the rolac discs.I use a stainless steel cup brush that won't harm aluminum on a die grinder.
Go look up the GM TSB,came out in 2001.I had it and lost the paper some where
A carpenter will get mad if they see you do this with a wood chisel,use it as a gasket scraper.I have 3 wood chisels I use as gasket scrapers.Advantage is the wood chisel has a very good sharp cutting edge.I use a stainless steel wire cup brush put on an air power die grinder. on aluminum and never harmed the gasket surfaces yet.Of course I wear hearing and eye protection when I do this
GM has a TSB out not to use them,were causing premature engine failures.Jasper does not recomend using them too.
Even talk to any engine builder,scotch brite pads are not to be used.Even Jasper says not to use them too