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Honor the Dragon

I somehow really liked the intro with just hacking away at the chassis, it gave me a cinematic vibe like some other youtubers do, but they slow down the footage, put some music behind it and make it like a 2-3 minute segment lol. I really do like these "just working on the bot" shots and honestly I like it more when it's just the sounds of the tools instead of some dubstep track violating my ears in the background. 4:35 So you're saying you've rejected reality and instead substituted it with your own? But putting wubs between parts to reduce shocks is pretty common practice, I think your internal physics engine is pretty well aligned with reality and it will probably help lighten the loads on the bolts holding the armor ring in place. Also your method of modelling in Blender came quite handy a couple of days ago, I downloaded some STL off thingyverse to print but the dimensions of a hole were wrong and it wouldn't fit, I was about to make an entirely new part in CAD but then I remembered your channel and fired up Blender, moved some vertices a bit, printed it and it came out perfect. I wouldn't have thought to use Blender for something like that if it weren't for your channel, so thanks!

Hoping that now the bolt is recessed a bit more into the wheel, there is also a bit less chance for getting a direct hit from another weapon. 3:58 if your topology isn't too bad, you can probably select edge loops like this by holding control+alt and left clicking on one of the edges (the line between two vertices that are part of the loop).

6:00 this issue is reason why I clicked on this video! I'm struggling with this for 4 years now and I even started to looking for new printers! I had suspicion on the tilting bed but I will check the bolts! funny is, I have build the printer myself.

I said from the getgo that I would pay more for a pre-painted set because I'm not a hobbyist/war gamer like that. I reluctantly backed the Avalon Hill campaign to get where are now, which is where Avalon should've started in the first place. This time, I gladly forked over $300+ to get Premium HeroScape. I put my money where my mouth is both times. Glad to have HeroScape back and to continue building the collection!

to change the viewport clipping in blender, in the properties panel (hotkey n) in the View tab, change the amount in Clip Start to something like 0.0001 m

Lord-IVD here. nice vid , cut to the Chace on one of the ugly truths of miniature or table top gaming it's 2024 and this stuff is not cheap ...but honestly it never was . Sure back in the early 2000's the Heroscape master set Rise of the Valkyrie was only $40 and came with alot , but at that time $40 was alot too. and the booster packs were $12 for about 8 figures per 1/4 of a wave that my collection required me to buy 3 of each so i would spend $145.00 every expansion sometimes more depending on what units I liked ( Needed 8 sets of Deathreavers spent $100 or rats!!) I was not rich , hell i'm mostly blind and money is tight now too . But let me say this: I just pre ordered $ 680.00 for 1 full set of painted everything , only 1 Tree set at $50 ( I have 7 sets of the old tress) 1 painted Battle Box and one Painted MasterSet then 2 unpainted Battle boxes and 2 unpainted MasterSets I AM HAPPY to support having this game back in production. I do not feel I am over paying for what we are getting . While this game has been out of print alot of us have spent just as much or more buying figures to make custom figures with. I have around 300 or more Heroclix and when Age of A failed in the Haslab I bought $100 worth of Xenomorph miniatures off Etsy as well as other whole gams just for the minis like AVP, Ratchet Wars, and the Big Trouble in Little China box game. If you like these kinds of games you pay the price and figure out where and how to store all the stuff and you are happy to do so. I have spent thousands of dollars on Heroscape and have more than gotten my moneys woth out of my plastic. Sorry for the rant its whay I do lol. Great video!

lmao. Renegade's prepainted Master Set is $225. The unpainted is $125 with just 20 figures. The cope is real. Avalon Hill's offer was incredible, but almost no one was in touch with the market, so they cried "too expensive", but I see those same people cheering as they fork over $225 for this Master Set with 30% of what we would have gotten for the same cost.

amazing tutorial thanks !

Also I have assembled metal CAVs from Reaper Miniatures. I have built plastic CAVs and Mechs from Reaper Miniatures and Talon games. I am not great at building stuff will these be more challenging? They are resin right? Thanks for the information. Charles

Great video! Thankyou very much for sharing this.

Great first look and review. I just got this and am anxious to get it to the table. Another point on the box is that it is designed to conveniently transport your minis to the place you will be playing. Mr. Barker also stresses that it is intended to be miniature neutral, use the minis you can get or have, not WYSIWYG. This is great for me along with its customizable factions. I have such a smattering of different mins that need table time that I could have gotten just the rules but the minis are cool.

NUTS! WW2

Nice, this is so similar to painting Warhammer 40K Orks.

Heroscape

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

I still my clickytech armies. My local store opened boxes and sold units by the piece, along with sealed boosters. 6 of us in my group, so an army for each right from the start. We bought everything for awhile. I tried to get 8 of each infantry for an army, 4 of each vehicle, 2 of each mech. Dont get to play much now that we all have famies

I know this is three years old. But you wouldnt happen tonhave. Tutorial on lets say 3rd priting the ork settlement building and maybe a few of the other ork buildings. Going try to make a mektown and fort for a new gorkamork.

Yeah, this is my worry from the get-go: cost. When they were mass produced back in the day, they were cheaper due to economy of scale. Walmart kept the prices down and Hasbro barely made a dime off of it. This was what attracted me to it in the first place and this is exactly why it is so collectible. Simply trying to field three common squads today will be a huge challenge cost wise. I love Heroscape to death, but I will stick with what I have.......

AoA factions really felt like just rip-off 40k. It didn't feel like OG Heroscape which had a great balance between Historical, Sci-Fi and Fantasy.

what was worse Barney or Baby shark? Definitely Barney. good lord.

Jordan wiseman i-s such a clussy Between the dark age and battletech the video game hes shown how little he understands what peoples interest in battletech is…

Jordan wiseman is such a Clussy Between the dark age and battletech the video game hes shown how little he understands what peoples interest in battletech is…

Great breakdown, thanks!

I’m really happy I just found this channel I was looking for painting tips for BT mechs for a good minute and finally I’ve found this! It’s so detailed, thank you.

I say the say thing about LiO batteries. Those things really dont want to exist. Only by summoning them into an unholy vessel forged during a blood moon, can we get draw energy from the seal comtaining the demons heart inside. Break that seal and the demon is free to cast its hellfire magic and miasma upon the cursed land.

FWIW We cut polycarbonate all the time with the CNC router in our shop. So possibly the issue you had was maintaining a consistent feed rate with the hand router? Also I always use spiral O bits for polycarb. Cool battle bot tho!

No no you misunderstand, there is nothing magic about brushless, its demonic energy is quite scientific and well understood at this point. First, you need to create Lithium-Polymer batteries (or other high-capacity demonic containment) by mining Hell essence directly from the underworld, by applying some neutron activation you encapsulate what is essentially a small Hell bubble into a neat plastic wrapped container. This is why demonic mist + fire & brimstone release from lipo packs if they get nicked. Now you charge the lipo pack with standard electricity, which the pack converts until it's filled with essentially demonic energy, which is then supplied to the ESCs which turn it into three-phase demonic flux, which in turn supplied to the motor makes the rotors spin. The kV rating of motors is very important as that describes how many lost souls are trapped inside the motor, so if you apply a certain amount of demonic flux it determines how fast it will spin. It's important to keep your motor and ESC within specifications as too much voltage or too much load on the demonic flux can cause leaks in the barrier between the under and overworlds, best case your bot catches on fire but in worst case it can escalate in what is known as "Dies irae", or "Day of Wrath" which will turn both heaven and earth into ashes.

Nice way to be inclusive to Clan players, call their terminology and units "crap" lol wow. I can tell you what is "crap" is your painting.

I Miss this game. It wasn’t the game mechanics itself. That were so awesome but the fact that the minis were pre-painted and had the click dial system. In my opinion, the click dial system needs to be more available for other game types.

Not being able to move and fire was something that confused me a lot. The later addition of half movent and shooting was better but still. I never realy got into this game. Still have some of the mechs because I liked the design but I won't play it again. Gone back to Battletech or its newer ruleset of Alpha Strike.

Interesting.I´m in germany and was just able to find a few people willing to send me their german cards. I bought the corebox and so far only play at home with my little son. Getting the cards and printing some replacement miniatures has a good advantage imho. I can test out the other squads. I can print all miniatures twice so my son has his own one to paint. And if i decide to go in tournaments i will gladly buy the corresponding box. In the current recession i just have to say i wouldn´t buy all the new boxes anyw3ay. Especially i wouldn´t buy the boxes twice just so my son can practice his painting skills on those. I don´t know if it is actually cheaper though. Shipping cards and paying for the stl files and then printing myself i suppose the only plus is having the file to be able to print as many as i want for new paintjobs but i guess pricewise it stays in almost the same lane.

how do you paint the slammer like they did? that was my all time question

Great video, I love the basic setup of "here's problem x" and then figuring out what to do on how to fix it. The bane of having CADed something out in sub-mm precision, and then when you try to make it reality slams down and you're dealing with tolerances and all that fun stuff. I imagine there is also a bit of conversion loss between Blender and your slicing software as the latter has some constraints regarding nozzle and step size of your printer, so it has to introduce a kind of aliasing to get everything to fit, let alone the slight contraction (or expansion?, haven't used a 3d printer much) after the print cools down. Only way to be sure is to create a perfect 1cm³ cube in blender, slice and print it and see what dimensions come out the other end, and somehow take that into account while modelling in your CAD software (or calibrate your slicer software if possible). I had to do similar things to my little CnC machine when it came out of the box: tell it to cut a 10x10cm square, it would come out as something like 10.3x9.8cm due to slight inaccuracies in the stepper motors, 3D printers are pretty close to hobby cnc machines so if there is some kind of calibration you can do by telling it to print something of a certain size, measuring it and sending some gcode to the machine so it automatically adjusts steps/mm for incoming jobs, with GRBL that's sending commands $100-102 with the measurements and then everything comes out perfect. The problem with plastic bushings over threads is that they will get a bit squished over time so it might be tight now, but it could loosen a lot over time. I've had some great (but janky) success just cutting nylon wall plugs to appropriate length and using those as bushings, as the outer diameter is usually pretty spot-on and you can just drive the bolt through there squishing the nylon a bit. But instead of a hexbolt where the outer diameter of the thread of the bolt interfaces with the inner diameter of the bearing, couldn't you use a shoulder bolt? So instead of the thread going all the way to the head (which isn't exactly 4mm so it wobbles), there is a bit of solid bolt that should be exactly 4mm for your bearings to sit on top of? Or did I just misunderstand and are you doing that already.

Looks awesome

For the size it looked like the hex base was thicker. If the HEV was on a similar base they look like be about the same. Nice review, may just pick this up to support a great hobby hero!

He said "Fnisher", :-) Yeah, Pete stood out like a sore thumb. He was a rack over and his SS agent, in khakis and flannel shirt with ear piece made it very obvious. Overall I really enjoyed the race as well. But, did not like the funky little red gates on the swim - too small and difficult to sight, imo.

I was searching on the internet for a quick guide to start building my own arena, this video help me more than anyone else... great job

I’m Battletech player from Indonesia 🇮🇩

This isn’t using speedpaints.

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Man you had me at Black Walnut! NICE one.

So do you think it will be good or bad. Great video and I have subscribed to your channel.

That was a great tutorial. Thank you!

This is super cool! I really like that you walked through the whole process of actually designing it

Not a bad design. I miss the old designs for Tau, the new ones are too "imperial". It is great to see a return to shoulder and FW style underslung designs.

turned out great!

Dude sounds triggered AF xD

Aren't these miniatures the wrong size for alpha strike?

Was there a full review eventually?