Video

Could be valves, but if they are that far out you'd probably be able to hear the rattle well when cold, not only that, as your valvetrain ages you usually get tighter tolerances as the valves wear into the head, not looser, and the symptoms would say the tolerances are so far out when cold it starts hard, but after warm up and expansion they are close enough to aid in starting OK again. Could also be fuel injectors, fuel pump, or even spark plugs. I' would still lean towards a bad wire somewhere , these have terrible harnesses. Start with the cheapest stuff first. Good Luck!

I really don't know, depending on the year, make sure it isn't something simple like a bad reverse rpm limiter switch , or seatbelt speed limiter.

It’s on the passenger side of the motor block

Just reground it to the engine and firewall somewhere. It almost impossible to get to at the factory location. There are ground studs on the firewall with a strap to the engine. You can see on the video that's where I grounded it. Good Luck

There's a ground on the right side of the motor too. It runs the coil packs. At least on my truck. That was the issue and no one talks about this wire.. I've been trying different stuff for weeks till I found that video. Sure as shit started right up. It runs with the negative battery terminal to the block.

Well be driver's side. Right standing in front looking at vehicle

Stalls when warm? Won’t start back up until the motor has cooled down? Thinkin I’m having this issue possibly in my 2020 turbo s…

It's not in service anymore, as we have upgraded. But we farmed about 2,000 acres with it

Could possibly be another wire also. I do recommend using tin tape to help signal.

@@performance406 I took it all apart again taped wire then used tinfoil over the wire and taped again lol. Will see what happens!!! Thanks!!

Could be, the wiring on these only get worse with age.

Haha. I meant instead of a straight wire there is a 180 or 360 degree loop in it. Kind of like when you have and extension cord hanging and try to unravel it fast and it ties in knots instead of laying out straight.

Is it throwing a code? Check that.

I think there was a code.. been busey fixing other stuff. vacation coming , going to Snake hunt in ok. your machine dose what mine is doing. gotta tare it back down to put new muffler on. want to get new shocks, whats you sugjest for $ and value, performance?

@@johngould2288 You could go a hundred different ways on this. Really depends on budget and applications. For shocks, I usually recommend Fox. They offer some really good budget shocks, but the higher end , like the 2.0 RC Race shocks are really good, for higher speed control and dampening. If you want tuned shocks to your specific wants I strongly recommend Shock Therapy. www.shocktherapyst.com. Shoot them a message. As for exhaust I lean towards Big Gun, believe it or not, however, unless you are going very high performance just about any exhaust on the market will be suitable. My 2 cents. hope this helps, and have fun with the build. Check out all that wiring! Polaris builds a good machine, just wish they put a little more quality into the wiring. Hope this helps

Good chance your stator has failed. Check for spark with a plug out while turning it over.

@@performance406 thank you for getting back with me, I’ll definitely look into that next

@@performance406 any recommendations on where to look for a stator?

@@justintaylor3030 ebay

Having the same issue. But mine has shown CHK ENG code of 0 636 2 (CPS code). Started fine all this time, but we've had really cold weather and I didn't start it for a few days. Now just cranks and cranks and cranks. I'm assuming maybe bad gas although it's fairly fresh. Or something frozen or stuck? Let me know what you find out on yours.

I'll bet you it's a broken wire in the harness very similar to the video. The one in the video was the farthest one I've ever seen it was almost at the seat. They can be a real pain. Look for a twisted wire like the video. Good luck.

@@performance406 I stripped it back a few feet already and replaced a large portion of the two unshielded wires. When it first started I could flick the cps wire and get it to start now it's much more difficult. I will keep stripping back wire loom I guess. And retest the ground to the chassis and where it splits to the coil.

@@waynemontgomery7805 They can be aggravating. Is it only showing one trouble code?

@@performance406 it doesnt show any codes at all. Replaced plugs, coil, cps, cps connector. At first I could start it by flicking the connector now I really have to wiggle the harness to fire then runs great. Stripped back a lot of the harness but dont see anything crazy. Need to look over grounds again I guess and keep stripping wire loom back. Could so much shielding being removed be causing an issue?

@@waynemontgomery7805 probably not. nine times out of 10 and I'll throw a code if it's not getting a signal from the crank position sensor or any sensor, for that matter. Be sure to look for damaged or kinked wires. If it is starting when you wiggle the harness, it should be in the harness somewhere. Check your fuel pump pressure also. Hope this helps, good luck.

If it does it again, probably is the wiring

There really isn't a good reliable way. Some will wiggle the wires, some will use a multi-meter to check for resistance, voltage, etc, but nothing works real well. That is one reason this can be such an elusive problem. Good luck

Yes, Very good chance of it, most complaints I've seen start with the warm engine comment. Could also be your stator or fuel pump, but probably not in my opinion. When things warm up they expand, if you have bad connection or wiring it can cause it to separate more and quit working. Usually why you see stators failing whenever only when engines warm up. Thanks, Hope this helps.

@@performance406 I appreciate the quick reply! I'm gonna try and order a replacement cable and I hope that fixes it. Just frustrated right now because I just upgraded to 30" Maxxis tire and got new KMC Rims, new PRP Suspension seats and I replaced the stock Springs with Eibach Stage 2 Springs and then this happens when I'm set to take out for a ride.... Smh.

Thanks, hope it helped

In that situation you might just want to start with the actual sensor any electronics as they warm up expand from the heat. This will in turn caused them to stop working if there are any broken or loose connections inside the sensor or on a circuit board. However this machine that is in this very video had those exact same symptoms. if it's a seven-year-old Polaris, you better dig into that wire harness in my opinion and look for any kinks or rubbed through wires. Thanks. I hope this helps. Good luck

I guess I didn't even mention it, but if it's throwing the 636 code, it's somewhere between your crank position sensor and ECM. Good luck!

Basically what the video goes over. They can be a real pain but if it the 636 code it's in that harness or the CPS itself.

Probably the wiring harness off the CPS. The map sensor can trigger it too but that is more rare. They be a real pain to find. Good luck I hope this helps.

This was right after a total rebuild at 10,000 hours. It was running a little rich. Its dialed in now. Not a torque monster but it gets the job done rather well.

My parents have a massey ferguson 4880 with a straight pipe. I love the sound of that v8! I spent so many hours listening to that rumble as a teenager.

it is loud and bad ass sounding if you are a teenager looking for a tractor, but the only place you find diesel v8's today is in trucks built for city folk who are like you and need that v8. in practice, and i lived through the v8 era in the 80s in tractors, they used more fuel, were not reliable and most farmers after having 1 , which was rare, never went back to them again. surrounded by john deeres the one deere we never saw was teh big one v8, 8850.

@@brentvillman2843 some of you guys are pretty wierd about wanting a loud tractor, the farmers with loud tractors in my day were the ones that didn't keep up on repairs and or didn't have money to make repairs. my dads first 4wd was an allis 440 which was a v8, he traded it in 1980 for an allis 8550, which made the 440 feel old, and if you been in an 8550 that's saying something. it never left our farm though.